s^-^ "-IT 'tr-'Si^/' 





£?i)E«yGHT DEPOSIT. 




His Royal Highness The Duke of Connaught, Governor-General of Canada 



In Canada's 
Wonderful Northland 

A Story of Eight Months of Travel by Canoe, 

Motorboat, and Dog-Team on the Northern 

Rivers and along the New Quebec 

Coast of Hudson Bay 



W/Tees Curran 

p^ and 

Hf A. Calkins, B.Sc. 



With 60 Illustrations and Maps 



G. P. Putnam's Sons 

New York and London 

tTbe l^nlcFierbocker press 

1917 



F/d 5'f- 



Copyright, 1917 

BY 

W. TEES CURRAN 



FEB 2D 1917 



Ube fjnfcfterbocftcr |>ress» *Wew ISorft 



/^V 



©Gl A. 455600 /" ,^ 



By Special Permission 

This Book Is 

Respectfully Dedicated 

To 

Field Marshal H.R.H. ARTHUR WILLIAM PATRICK 

ALBERT, Duke of Connaught and Strathearn, K.G., P.C., 

K.T., K.P., G.M.B., G.C.S.I., G.C.M.G., G.C.I.E., 

G.C.V.O., Governor-General of Canada, whose 

GREAT interest IN CANADA AND HER WON- 
DERFUL development has ENDEARED 
HIM TO EVERY LOYAL CANADIAN 




The Hon. Sir Lomer Gouin, K.C.M.G., Premier of the Province of Quebec 




INTRODUCTION 

XJEBEC, the oldest portion of Canada, 
is twice as large as any of the other 
provinces and comprises, with Un- 
gava added, over seven hundred 
thousand square miles. Its enor- 
mous size can only be comprehended by com- 
parison with that of other countries. It is equal 
to one fifth of the area of the United States, or 
six times that of the British Isles, and is larger 
than Great Britain, France, Spain, and Germany 
combined. 

A thousand miles of its north-west boundary 
forms the east coast of that great inland sea, 
Hudson Bay, a body of salt water twenty times 
as large as Lake Superior, and abounding in fish, 
seals, and whales. It is boimded on the north 
by the Hudson Straits, on the east by a narrow 
strip of territory, Labrador, which is under the 
jurisdiction of the Government of Newfoundland, 
on the south by the St. Lawrence River and the 
United States border, and on the west by the 
Province of Ontario. 

It is nearly four hundred years since Jacques 
Cartier landed on the shores of what is now called 
Quebec, and yet, despite its tremendous resources, 



vi INTRODUCTION 

but a comparatively small portion of even the 
southern part of the Province is populated. There 
is no doubt that, when, in the future, these re- 
sources are developed, Quebec will support an 
immense population. 

Until quite recently, exploration and develop- 
ment have advanced steadily westward, due prin- 
cipally to the advantages of the prairie land, 
which requires no clearing, and in a very short 
time may be made to yield a crop. As the young 
men of the Province have grown up and expan- 
sion has become necessary, they have gone west- 
ward to open up new country and make homes 
for their families. The expansion has now reached 
its westward limit, the Pacific, and the people 
have begun to realize their provinces have breadth 
as well as length. 

The introduction of the National Transconti- 
nental and other railways into the North is dis- 
closing the fact that there are in the region 
agricultural lands, timber areas, mineral deposits, 
water powers, and fisheries that in some cases 
rival those of the South. 

What the possibilities are beyond the National 
Transcontinental Railway is practically unknown. 
It is certain there are agricultural lands two 
hundred miles north of the Rupert River, where 
with the long, warm day, vegetation will be rapid; 
there is also an enormous quantity of pulp wood 
along the rivers flowing into James Bay; deposits 



INTRODUCTION vii 

of iron ore aggregating millions of tons have 
been discovered on the islands which border the 
Hudson Bay coast of the Province; and at other 
places copper, galena, silver, gold, and asbestos 
have been found, although no effort has been 
made to determine the extent and value of the 
deposits. Recent government investigations have 
shown that the fisheries in the Hudson Straits 
and Bay are of great value, the salmon being 
superior to that of British Columbia, and, situated 
so near the British markets, will doubtless soon 
be operated on a commercial basis. When 
Quebec has had ample time to investigate her 
new territory, she will find its dormant wealth 
astonishingly great. 

The idea has long prevailed that the northern 
portions of Canada, Quebec included, are of little 
value, owing to their high latitude, but similar 
mistakes have been made in the past regarding 
the southern parts of Canada when they were 
being colonized. After the signing of the Treaty 
of Paris, by which France lost the major part of 
her Canadian colonies, Voltaire is quoted as saying : 

We were foolish enough to establish ourselves on 
the snows of Canada, among the bears and the beav- 
ers. I have begged on my knees that we get rid 
of Canada. 

We have lost in a day fifteen hundred leagues of 
territory. These fifteen hundred leagues, being a 
frozen desert, are not a very considerable loss. 



viii INTRODUCTION 

Another case of mistaken opinion as to the 
value of certain public lands is that of Canada's 
great silver camp, one of the richest in the world, 
which was originally pronounced of no commercial 
importance, after a cursory inspection by gov- 
ernment engineers. Thus we see that without 
thorough investigation, no territory can be properly 
judged. 

As in the past, Western Canada was not opened 
up until the entrance of the railways, so it will be 
with Northern Quebec, and we would say, "All 
honour to the men who undertake the task.'* 
What Lord Strathcona and his associates did for 
the West by the construction of the Canadian 
Pacific Railway, other men are endeavouring to 
do for the northern part of this Province. 

When the Ottawa, Abitibi, and Hudson Bay 
Railway from Ottawa, the North Railway from 
Montreal, and other projected lines to James 
Bay, and the government railw^ay from the West 
to Port Nelson, are completed, many busy ports 
will undoubtedly develop on the northern shores 
of Quebec. 

The Hudson Bay route is certain to become a 
great highway to the central and western portions 
of Canada, to the United States, and to the Euro- 
pean markets, and it is highly probable that within 
the next few years the largest facilities in the world 
for the storage of grain will be found on the shores 
of the Hudson Bay^ where immense quantities of 



INTRODUCTION ix 

wheat must be held awaiting the opening of the 
season. The opening up of this route will even- 
tually have no effect on any of the present trans- 
continental railways, for, within the next few 
years, the traffic from west to east will be so 
increased that there will be an abundance for all. 

The future of this vast territory, New Quebec, 
must depend a great deal on those who are enter- 
prising enough to penetrate its still unexplored 
areas and bring its hidden wealth to the attention 
of those who have the capital to develop it. 

It is hoped that some of the readers of the fol- 
lowing chapters may catch the spirit of conquest 
that actuated their ancestors in raising the Ameri- 
can Continent to its position in the world today, 
and assist in opening up this great treasure house, 
the heritage of the Canadian people. [ 



PREFACE 




j|HIS is the narrative of a trip I made 
to the east coast of Hudson Bay, 
during the summer and auttmm of 
19 12, accompanied by twenty men, 
including my assistant, Harold 
A. Calkins, B.Sc, and Horace F. Strong, B.Sc. 
(Min.). It was my second visit to this unde- 
veloped portion of north-eastern Canada. 

The story of the first expedition (1907), I related 
in the book entitled Glimpses of Northern Canada ^ 
a Land of Hidden Treasure, issued by the Cana- 
dian Government. This unassuming narrative 
found its way into every public library, both at 
home and in foreign lands, and the demand on the 
Government for copies was far in excess of the 
issue. 

The fact that the first book proved interesting to 
so many has prompted me to tell the story of my 
later trip, which was made for the purpose of con- 
tinuing the investigation of the natural resources 
of what was formerly known as the District of 
Ungava, now the Territory of New Quebec. 

The preparations for the expedition were made 
with the greatest care. Equipment and provisions 

xi 



xii PREFACE 

were chosen with all the forethought that previous 
experience could suggest, a difficult proposition for 
operations in a country so remote from any source 
of supplies. 

Difficulties were encountered over which we had 
no control, due principally to stormy weather, as 
the season was the roughest in the memory of 
the inhabitants. This was the more unfortunate 
because of the fact that the season of 1907 had 
been as notably good as that of 19 12 was bad, 
and the preparations had been made with the 
natural expectation of finding weather condi- 
tions similar to those obtaining during the former 
trip. 

In consequence of the stormy season, the trip was 
lengthened from five to eight months, a circum- 
stance which necessitated travelling on snow- 
shoes, after the freezing of the rivers, from Moose 
Factory to Cochrane, Ontario, a distance of about 
two hundred miles. 

In the chapters that follow, we have spoken 
much of rough weather conditions, a matter that 
affected our travelling almost every day of the 
journey. Because of that fact the reader may form 
erroneous ideas regarding the climate of this lately 
acquired portion of the Province. I would, there- 
fore, ask him kindly to bear in mind that the sea- 
son of 19 1 2, in the vicinity of Hudson Bay, was 
conceded to be the worst in fifty years; neverthe- 
less, I do not think anything happened to us that 



PREFACE 



Xlll 



might not have occurred in the experiences of the 
early explorers of the fertile shores of the south- 
ern part of Quebec, which portion was at one time 
much farther removed from civilization than are 
at the present time our northern boundaries. 

I cannot but acknowledge with gratitude the 
kindness of the officers of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany and Revillon Fr^res, as well as others resident 
in the country. Their friendliness was a strong 
factor, in spite of the stormy season, in turning a 
tedious and worrisome trip into one of pleasure and 
replete with pleasant memories. We foimd big- 
hearted men in these remote places filling positions 
of trust in a most creditable manner. 

Mention must be made in particular of Messrs. 
R. O. Griffith and Blais, Post Managers at Fort 
George ; Mr. C. J. R. Jobson of the Eastmain Post, 
whose efforts to make us comfortable during a 
protracted stay at his Post were unremitting; 
Messrs. J. G. Mowatt and Hall6, of the Moose 
River Posts, and also Mr. Draulette, Inspector of 
the Posts on the Bay for Revillon Freres. 

The man who denies that the world is growing 
better has never been brought into touch with 
the ''new civilization" of Fort George and Great 
Whale River. This is unique in itself, and may be 
attributed to the untiring efforts of the Rev. Mr. 
Walton and his wife, who for the past twenty 
years have ministered to the Indians and Eskimos 
of the Eastmain coast. Nowhere in Canada might 



XIV 



PREFACE 



one have a feeling of more absolute security 
than among these people whose honesty and 
sobriety are unimpeachable. Mr. Walton's hos- 
pitality to all comers of good intent is well known, 
and it was none the less manifest to us that 
year. 

The pleasure and comfort of our stay in Moose 
Factory, while waiting for the ''freeze up," were 
due to the kindness and generosity of the Rev. 
Mr. Haythornthwaite and his wife, who placed 
their well-furnished home, with its cellar of vege- 
tables, at our disposal, and whose thoughtful atten- 
tion to our every need never relaxed. 

Nor can it be said that all our pleasant recol- 
lections are of officials and people of note, for when 
we had said good-bye to all of these, and had come 
to the farther end of Moose Island, we found a 
number of our dusky friends waiting to bid us 
*' godspeed"; and later when rounding the end of 
the island beyond, which would shut off the view 
of the little place that had afforded us so many 
days of real comfort, we turned to say a last fare- 
well to Moose Factory and the Bay, these kind- 
hearted people were still watching our onward 
progress. 

I must take advantage of this opportunity to pay 
a slight tribute to the memory of the late Miss 
Mary A. Johnston, who received us so kindly 
at the Industrial School in Moose Factory on our 
outward journey, and who, we learned on our re- 



PREFACE XV 

turn, had been called to her home in Clarenceville, 
Quebec, owing to the serious illness of her mother. 
Miss Johnston's interest in the Indian had induced 
her to exchange the comforts of home life for one of 
self-sacrifice and service in teaching and nursing 
her dusky brothers and sisters, for which objects 
she faced the hardships of the outdoor life and the 
dangers of long canoe journeys with her Indian 
guides. It was with profound regret we learned 
that her useful life had been cut short while she 
was travelling in England last September. 

I cannot close without acknowledging the 
services of my assistant, Harold A. Calkins, who 
never failed in the capable performance of any 
duty throughout the entire journey. I shall 
never forget his faithful night vigils on the boat 
during that long, stormy season, a duty that was 
really not his to perform. As a travelling com- 
panion he was always kind and cheerful, even in 
the midst of the most discouraging circumstances, 
and in discussions of important matters his 
opinions invariably proved valuable. 

In writing up the account of the trip he and I 
have lived it all over again, and we have found 
that there are but few of the experiences on which 
we cannot look back with pleasure. 

It is the desire of the writers that the record 
contained in the following pages may prove of 
interest and of value to those who follow us in the 
opening of that vast area. Newest Quebec, and 



xvi PREFACE 

may assist in correcting many of ^Q existing 
misconceptions commonly held regarding that 
great country, whose resources may, when fully 
known, prove to be some of Canada's richest. 

W. T. C. 

December 38th, 1913. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introduction v 

Preface . xi 

CHAPTER 

I. — The Preparations . . . i 

II. — The Start lo 

III. — The Turbulent Missinaibi . i8 

IV. — Off for Moose Factory . . 31 

V. — Down the Moose Valley to the 

Sea ...... 46 

VI. — Moose Factory TO Rupert House . 53 

VII. — A Week in Rupert Bay . . 67 

VIII. — Rupert House to Eastmain River 84 

IX. — Eastmain River to Fort George ioi 

X. — Fort George . . . .115 

XI. — Fort George to Great Whale 

River . . , . . 126 

XII. — Great Whale River to Little 

Whale River . . . .156 

xvii 



xviii CONTENTS 



CHAPTER ■ ^ PAGE 

XIIL — Clark Island . . . .170 

XIV. — Nastapoka River . . .182 

XV. — Clark Island to Great Whale 

River 194 

XVI. — Great Whale River to Fort 

George ..... 215 

XVII. — Fort George .... 232 

XVIII. — Fort George to Eastmain River . 242 

XIX. — Eastmain River to Wood Island . 258 

XX. — Wood Island to Moose Factory . 272 

XXI. — Seven Weeks at Moose Factory . 288 

XXII. — Homeward Bound on the Ice. 

Moose Factory to New Post . 305 

XXIII. — New Post to Cochrane . .318 

Appendix 333 

Index 337 



FACING 
PAGE 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

His Royal Highness the Duke of Con- 
naught, Governor-General of Canada 

Frontispiece V 

The Hon. Sir Lomer Gouin, K.C.M.G., Pre- 
mier OF THE Province of Quebec 

The Authors ..... 

The Brunswick Rapids 

The Split Rock Falls 

The Poplar-Clad Banks . 

Shooting Double Portage Rapids 

A Beautiful Bend on the Brunswick River 

The Wavy Rapids .... 

At the End of a Portage Trail 

The Camp of the Railway Engineers, 

MissiNAiBi Crossing .... 32 

Wash Day in the Camp .... 32 

Supplies and Equipment .... 34 

Preparing for the Start .... 34 

xix 



V V 

I ''- 

20 / 
20 

24 «^' 
24 ^'^ 
28^" 

30^ 



r 



/ 



/ 



XX 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING 
PAGE 



The Conjuring House Canon 

The Conjuring House 

Hauling a Motorboat over Conjuring 
House Trail . . . . 

The Long Portage Rapids 

Kaolin Deposit on the Missinaibi River 

Gypsum Beds on the Moose River 

The Moose River Post of Revillon Freres 

The Hudson's Bay Company's Buildings, 
Moose Factory . . . . 

Moose Factory from the Industrial School 

Map Southern Coast of James Bay . 

The Dory in Sea-Going Trim 

The Giant Bark Canoes from Waswanipi 

Rupert House . . . 

The Factor's Garden, Rupert House 

Map Southern Half, East Coast of James 
Bay ...... 

Map Fort George to Great Whale River 

The Mission Buildings, Fort George 

The Mission Garden, Fort George . 



40 



y 



40 V 

44 v^ 

48 '/ 

48'^ 



52 



v/ 



52- 
54 ; 

56 

62 
62 

74 
74 ^' 

94 
112 

116 

11.6 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



XXI 



The Family of "The Rat," Fort George . 

An Indian Burial at Fort George . 

At Fort George, Bishop Anderson and the 
Rev. W. C. Walton .... 

Fisher Women at Fort George 

Watching our Departure from Fort George 

An Eskimo Mother at Cape Jones . 

An Eskimo Salmon Spear . 

Drifting Ice in Long Island Sound 

Kyaks at Little Cape Jones 

Hudson's Bay Company's Post, Great Whale 
River 

Eskimo Women, Great Whale River 

Map Great Whale River to the Nastapoka 
River 

The Cliff Face, East Side, Clark Island 

The Nastapoka Falls 

**. . . A picture OF PEACEFUL SECURITY '* 

Chutes above the Nastapoka Falls . 
The Main Hematite Bed, Clark Island 
The Cliffs and Flats, Clark Island . 



FACING 
PAGE 

22 
22 



V 



J 



24 

28 



28 



V 



42*^' 



42 
48 
48 






54 



54 



58 
72 
84 



/ 



/ 



/ 






88 
88'-'' 

94 ' 
94 »/ 



XXll 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



An Eskimo Family, Nastapoka Sound . 
At the Tree Limit .... 
The Coliseum Cliff, Salmon Fisher's Trail 
Table Mountain, Salmon Fisher's Trail 
Castle Rock, Manitounuk Sound 
Eskimos at Service, Great Whale River 
At the Mission House, Moose Factory 
The Industrial School, Moose Factory 
Five Minutes' Rest on the Trail 
The Authors in Harness . 



PAGE 



200 






200 
202 / 



202 



210 



2IO 



296 
296 
316 
316 



/ 



/ 



Map of Eastern Canada 



. At the end ' 



/ 



In Canada's Wonderful Northland 




W. Tees Curran 



The Authors 



H. A. Calkins, B.SC. 



In Canada's Wonderful 
Northland 




CHAPTER I 

The Preparations 

r was with a view to continuing the 
investigations which had been com- 
menced five years previous that 
the writers began, early last year, 
to plan a trip by way of the Missi- 
naibi and Moose rivers to James Bay and thence 
up the east coast of Hudson Bay, to Clark Island, 
and the mouth of the Nastapoka River. 

During the trip through the same country in 
1907, valuable mineral deposits had been discov- 
ered, in particular on Clark Island, in the Nasta- 
poka Sound, on which is a deposit of iron ore 
aggregating several hundred million tons. One 
of the purposes of the expedition was to visit, 
survey, and do the necessary development work 
upon this deposit. The mining engineer was 
also to prepare a report upon it, giving the quan- 
tity, and from samples systematically taken to 
determine the quality of the ore. 



IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 



' It was arranged that the expedition should 
consist of four different parties. Three of these 
were assigned special localities in which to do 
assessment work or prospecting. The other was 
the chief party and was in charge of the expedi- 
tion. This party was also to make a general 
investigation of all the resources along the route. 
The following are the names of the members of 
the expedition in their respective parties : 



Chief Party 



fW. Tees Curran. 
H. A. Calkins, B.Sc, Assistant. 
L. C. McFarlane, Engineman for 
motor boat. 



Clark Island Party 



rH. F. Strong, B.Sc, Mining 

Engineer. 
Spencer Bennet, Assistant. 
Phil Johnston, Engineman and 

Cook. 
Frank Porter, Miner. 
.William Smith, Blacksmith. 



Prospectors 



[Fred Hamilton. 
J William Hutchins. 
Arthur Ash. 



Prospectors 



W. J. Donaldson. 
Wilfred Donaldson. 
Joe Coyer. 
James Stewart. - 
William Bagley. 



THE PREPARATIONS 



One who contemplates building a house first 
makes his plans, then counts the cost, and when 
he has the latter provided for and the material 
ready, he has dealt with the most vital part of 
the proposition. So it may be said of this expedi- 
tion. When a thousand and one needs have to 
be anticipated and provided for, all the w^ay from 
a needle to an anchor, a man must necessarily 
think hard and do it systematically. 

The person who has never had the experience 
of fitting out an expedition which is to travel to, 
and do a season's work in, an undeveloped country, 
nearly a thousand miles from a railway connect- 
ing with a source of supplies, can hardly realize 
the intricacy of the problem. 

The conditions under which we were labouring 
made it very difficult to undertake the arrange- 
ments, as one of the authors was already engaged 
in business and the other was in his final year 
at McGill University. 

By frequent nocturnal meetings, when the 
duties of the day were at an end, we were enabled 
to work out our scheme in every detail. Little 
wonder was it if, after going over the various 
phases of the prospective trip to the country in 
which we were so deeply interested, we retired 
to our slumbers to dream of exciting experiences, 
shooting moose and polar bears, running turbulent 
rapids, or visiting the interesting places and peoples 
of the North. 



4 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

The following will give some idea of the re- 
quirements and difficulties encountered in plan- 
ning for the expedition and how they were met 
and overcome. 

The problem of transportation was the first 
and at the same time the most difficult with which 
we were confronted. The trip of 1907 was made 
by canoe from Missinaibi, on the Canadian Pacific 
Railway, to Moose Factory, on James Bay, and 
thence up the bay on the small government yacht, 
which had been secured for the season. 

It was the intention to continue the work during 
the following season and plans were made accord- 
ingly, but the next spring it was found impossible 
to obtain the use of the boat, and the work had 
to be abandoned. Each succeeding year the same 
difficulty presented itself and in consequence the 
work remained at a standstill. 

This time we decided to overcome the difficulty 
by taking our own boats into the country. The 
problem was a hard one to solve, as any craft we 
chose had to fulfil the following opposing condi- 
tions : 

It must 

1st, have a carrying capacity of six tons, dead 
and live weight. 

2d, be sufficiently strong to resist the wear and 
tear of running many boisterous and rocky rapids. 

3d, be sufficiently light to be taken over four 
miles of hilly portages by twenty-one men. 



THE PREPARATIONS 5 

4th, be of light draft, capable of running in 
less than three feet of water in the rivers. 

5th, be sufficiently seaworthy to carry its load 
with safety, while coasting along the shores of 
James and Hudson bays. 

6th, be capable of attaining a speed of from six 
to eight miles per hour, in order that the necessary 
distance be covered and the work accomplished 
during the short season. 

7th, be ready for the Missinaibi River within 
one month from the day ordered. 

It will be seen from the foregoing how difficult 
a matter it was to choose a boat that would be 
suitable for river transportation, and at the same 
time be sufficiently seaworthy for the Bay. Con- 
siderable time was spent in investigating innumer- 
able types of craft and designs submitted by 
experts, but each in turn had its drawback 
which made it unsuited to our requirements. 

It was finally decided to take two small power 
dories instead of one large boat as we had origi- 
nally planned. This type of boat seemed to meet 
our requirements better than any other. We 
were furthered in our decision to take these boats 
by the result of tests, which had been made during 
the previous fall on Lake Superior, with boats of 
the same class, in work similar to that for which 
we required them. 

Next came the question of fuel. We realized 
that it was impossible to procure gasoline for 



IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 



fuel at any of the Posts on Hudson Bay, but that 
it would be possible to obtain a limited supply 
of kerosene. Hence, as a precaution, we chose a 
two cylinder, two cycle, six horse-power marine 
gas engine with a kerosene converter attachment, 
capable of running on either kerosene or gasoline. 

Having contemplated running each boat fifteen 
hundred miles, we found that it would be neces- 
sary to transport four hundred gallons of fuel, 
relying on that at the Posts only for an emergency. 
Half of this amount we took in gasoline and half 
in kerosene. We planned to carry the fuel in 
thirty-five gallon cylindrical tanks, which were to 
be made stationary in the bottoms of the boats. 

The boats were built in a town in Ontario and 
as soon as they were ready for the installation of 
the engines, McFarlane, who was to have charge 
of one of the engines for the summer, was sent 
on to attend to the work. He was instructed to 
ship the boats and accompany them to Missi- 
naibi Crossing on the National Transcontinental 
Railway. 

A very complete repair outfit was provided for 
each boat, including extra dry cells, vibrators, 
and engine parts. In addition to this there was 
provided a large emergency kit of assorted rope, 
wire, copper, and wire nails, screws, miscellaneous 
hardware, white lead, and Stop-A-Leak. 

The balance of the fleet was to consist of two 
thirty-foot canoes and four smaller ones, the two 



THE PREPARATIONS 



larger to be towed behind the boats, while the 
smaller ones would only be used for river work. 

The second problem that confronted us was 
the food supply. We investigated many foods 
for their relative proportions of bulk to nourish- 
ment, and completely rejected certain of them, 
in particular canned fruits and vegetables, owing 
to the unnecessary weight of tin and water, 
neither of which have food values. 

After selecting the nature and quality of our 
provisions, we prepared a list of the actual amount 
required of each article, per man, per day, based 
on our experience gained on former trips, and 
such published matter as was available on that 
subject, as for instance the lists of the Geological 
Survey. 

The following is the list showing the allotment 
of the major supplies, per man, per day : 

Commodity Quantity in pounds, 

per man, per day 

Meat (bacon and canned beef) i.oo 

Wheat flour i .00 

Lard o. 12 

Butter 0.12 

Baking powder '. . . . 0.02 

Salt 0.02 

Beans 0.12 

Tea 0.02 

Milk (condensed, in one pound cans) 0.12 



Carried forward 2.54 



IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 



Commodity Quantity in pounds, 

per man, per day 

Brought forward 2.54 

Fruit (evaporated) 0.25 

Sugar 0.50 

Corn meal o.io 

Oatmeal or cream of wheat 0.03 

Rice 0.25 

Barley o.io 

Total 3.77 

, Each man was supplied with a plate, bowl, 
mug, knife, fork, and spoon. Each party also 
had a full set of enameled cooking utensils. 

In addition to the above equipment, we took a 
large number of picks, shovels, drills, a blacksmith's 
forge with full equipment for general purposes, 
miscellaneous bars of steel, a large, broad-tired 
farm wagon, on which to haul the boats across the 
portages, and, last but not least, several hundred 
pounds of powder and dynamite had to be taken 
for use in development work on the claims. 

We planned to start on the opening up of the 
Missinaibi River and expected this to occur 
about the first of May. Delay in the completion 
of the boats held us up for some time, and then, on 
the thirteenth of May, we were informed that 
the thirty-foot canoes could not be delivered. 
This caused a great deal of inconvenience and 
the changing of some of our plans, for we had been 
depending on these to carry the freight which 



THE PREPARATIONS 



would" be in excess of the capacity of the two 
motor boats. 

Several large firms, in various parts of the 
country, were wired, in an endeavour to secure 
other large canoes. Boats of this type were very 
scarce with all the manufacturing companies, 
and the best that could be done was to accept the 
offer of three canoes nineteen feet long, from Messrs. 
Revillon Freres, at their Post in Missinaibi, on 
the Canadian Pacific Railway. 

By this time everything was in readiness for 
the start from Montreal, and the six Indian guides, 
who had been engaged to accompany the expe- 
dition down the river, were awaiting our notice 
at Chapleau, Ontario. 

Delivery of the canoes by the railway at this 
late date could not be depended upon, conse- 
quently it was thought best that the writers 
should proceed to Missinaibi Station at once, 
picking up the guides on the way, and make a 
quick trip by the old portage route to the head- 
waters of the Missinaibi River, and as far down 
as the crossing of the National Transcontinental 
Railway, where they would meet the balance of 
the expedition with the boats and suppHes. This 
plan was adopted when a telegram was received 
on May eighteenth, from the head guide, saying 
that the river was quite open. 




CHAPTER II 

THe Start 

OR weeks previous to the date of 
starting, most of the time was 
given to preparations which have 
already been described in detail 
and to getting private affairs into 
condition for our long absence. However, when 
it was decided on the eighteenth of May that we 
should precede the other members of the party, 
it seemed as if we could be ready for the event 
only by some miraculous intervention of Provi- 
dence. 

On Monday, the twentieth of May, our berths 
were secured on the Imperial Limited, the trans- 
continental express of the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
way, which left Montreal about ten o'clock at 
night. 

That evening was a busy one. Unable to 
leave our office before seven o'clock, we still had 
to partake of dinner, see many friends who had 
come to bid us farewell, and worst of all, the two 
boxes containing our instruments had to be re- 
packed. How we accomplished everything in 
the next two hours has been a puzzle to us ever 

lO 



THE START ii 



since, but with the assistance of kind friends, by- 
half past nine, all our baggage was on two cabs 
at the door. Our farewells said, we drove hastily 
to the station, arriving there barely in time to 
have the numerous parcels of baggage weighed 
and checked, and to say the last adieux. 

At last, we were off! What a feeling of relief 
came over us as we dropped into our seats, realiz- 
ing that the months of preparation were over, 
and that the trip was no longer a thing of the 
future! However perfect or imperfect our ar- 
rangements were, we had done our best, and our 
troubles, as we imagined, lay behind us. 

On the next afternoon at half past five, we 
arrived in Chapleau, and stepping from the train, 
found six guides, headed by Isaiah, our former 
chief guide, awaiting us, as we had instructed 
them by telegraph. Isaiah introduced his men, 
a husky looking crowd, by saying ''all good boys," 
at the same time giving a broad smile, evidently 
one of satisfaction. 

The rest of the journey was spent in renewing 
our former acquaintance with Isaiah, who had 
much to relate of the happenings on the Bay 
during the intervening five years, and of his 
hunting exploits since he had been out with us. 

Like all Indians, Isaiah had a knowledge of 
mineral deposits of great economic value within 
the limits of his hunting grounds, the location 
of which he was prepared to divulge for a nominal 



12 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

consideration. Fearing that the wealth to be 
derived from such information would be too large 
for us to manage, we decided that he had better 
reserve his secret for more powerful capitalists. 

Arriving at Missinaibi Station at about half 
past nine in the evening, we were met by the 
manager of the Revillon Freres' Post, who invited 
us to spend the night with him, and who provided 
quarters for the guides in the Indian house. 

Missinaibi had been the starting point for many- 
excursions which we had made down the river of 
the same name. We had been received by the 
same gentleman and enjoyed his hospitality several 
times before, so that it was with feelings of pleasure 
and anticipation that we visited the little place 
once again. 

The town is situated on Dog Lake, and is on 
the old portage route between Michipicoten, on 
Lake Superior, and Moose Factory, near James 
Bay, by way of the Missinaibi River, a route that 
has been travelled by the Hudson's Bay Company 
for the past two hundred years. We supposed 
we had travelled this route for the last time during 
the previous summer, and as we had enjoyed 
some of the finest scenery, killed the best game, 
and met with some of the most thrilling experi- 
ences of our lives on this river, we did not regret 
the fact that duty brought us this way again. 

It was arranged with the guides that all should 
rise early the first morning, so that the supplies 



THE START 13 



for the journey down the river to the Crossing 
could be selected and packaged properly for 
travelling, our personal camping outfit gotten 
into readiness, for it had been stored in the ware- 
house at the Post for nearly a year, and a start 
on the journey made early in the day. 

Consequently, on the following day, May 
twenty-second, we were up early and busily 
engaged in packing our clothes and bedding into 
pack sacks and dunnage bags, for the trunk in 
which we had brought them thus far was not a 
convenient package to place in a canoe or carry 
on one's back for a mile or more over some slippery 
portage. 

The instruments for surveying, mineral kit, 
tonsorial apparatus, maps, and other valuables 
which could not be conveniently carried in a bag 
were packed in two -strong padlocked boxes, con- 
structed for the purpose and just wide enough to 
sit crosswise in the centre of the canoe. These 
were heavy loads to handle on the portage, but 
amply proved their worth in the protection they 
afforded during the trip on the Bay. 

The town of Missinaibi affords only one eating 
house and it was here that we repaired for our 
breakfast. Throughout the meal we were enter- 
tained by the conversation of two very interesting 
characters, both of whom were true representatives 
of their professions. One was an itinerant priest, 
the other a railway construction man of rather 



14 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

loose ideals along certain lines. The two men 
were mixed up in a very serious argument, the 
latter maintaining that there was no essential 
difference between Romani Catholic, Quaker, 
Mormon, or Methodist sects, much to the disgust 
of the former. 

The supplies and dunnage loaded, letters writ- 
ten, and farewell telegrams dispatched, the canoes 
were launched at half past eleven, and the voyage 
of over eighteen hundred miles began, with a 
gale of wind and rain in our faces. 

At the northern end of Dog Lake, a portage 
over the height-of-land leads to Crooked Lake. 
This height-of-land between the two lakes is the 
great divide between the Hudson Bay and the 
St. Lawrence River basins. On the Dog Lake 
side, the waters flow southward to the Great Lakes, 
while on that of Crooked Lake, five hundred yards 
distant, the waters flow northward to Hudson Bay. 

Arriving at the portage, we were pleasantly 
surprised to find a push-car and track, installed 
by some railway contractor to facilitate the freight- 
ing of his supplies, by way of the lakes, to his 
section on the new line of the Canadian Northern 
Railway. Taking advantage of this convenience, 
we had our canoes and goods across in thirty 
minutes, and were launched on Crooked Lake, 
the first water flowing northward. 

The name of the lake is truly indicative of its 
character. It s^ shores and surrounding hills, clad 



THE START 15 



in fir and poplars of many shades of green and 
bathed in the rays of the spring sun, which shone 
brightly, presented a picture of great beauty, 
and as we followed its ever-changing course, lead- 
ing to all points of the compass, a new and lovelier 
view appeared at every turn. 

Reaching an old camping place, about midway 
along the shore of the lake, we decided to halt 
for the night. This was done under anything 
but favourable circumstances, as a heavy rain 
began to fall, almost immediately after our land- 
ing. It w^as a splendid initiation to our future 
experiences, and we soon forgot discomfort in the 
satisfying of our appetites, which, due to the first 
day in the fresh air, were already assuming larger 
proportions. 

We were awakened after a good night's sleep 
by the crackling of the fire, and the appetizing 
odour of fresh fish frying in the pan. The morn- 
ing was misty, but our spirits were not dampened, 
for we were determined to reach the railway 
crossing in record time. 

By eight o'clock the next portage was reached. 
The trail was about half a mile long and led to 
Missinaibi Lake. Here another push-car was 
found, enabling us to get our goods across and 
the canoes into the water again within forty 
minutes. 

Missinaibi (pictured water) Lake is without 
doubt the most beautiful body of water traversed 



i6 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

on the whole river trip. It is thirty-five miles 
from end to end, of which twenty-five miles lay 
in our course. Its shores are forest-clad, and rise 
gradually to hills several hundred feet high. We 
were not fortunate enough to view the beauties 
of the lake that morning, for a fog settled down 
heavily while the party was still on the portage, 
and remained until nearly noon. 

The trail ends on the shore of a little bay. 
From there the course leads to a bold rocky head- 
land, known as Fairy Point, after rounding which 
the main body of the lake is entered. To reach 
this a long cut is necessary, and it is considered 
a dangerous spot by the Indians because of the 
frequency of sudden wind squalls about the point. 

The guides showed some hesitancy in starting 
out, as it was quite impossible to see more than a 
few yards ahead. However, after some persuasion 
they pushed off, each canoe taking a route of its 
own. After paddHng for some time, they began 
to exchange shouts, for they had hopelessly lost 
their bearings. Coming together gradually it 
was discovered that the canoes had been moving 
in circles and were, as we found shortly after 
when somebody saw land, in about the same place 
from which we had started. Nothing daunted, 
another attempt was made, but with simi- 
lar result. The third time proved effective and 
the point was rounded amid the cheers of the 
voyageurs. 



THE START 17 



The lake is the headwater of the Missinaibi 
River and from the northern end of it the latter 
is reached. On the shore of the lake, about two 
miles from the head of the Missinaibi River, a 
Hudson's Bay Company's Post is situated. It is 
known as the Brunswick Post, and is the last of 
the rapidly receding chain of these, which at one 
time stretched along this route to the Bay. 

The sight of the Post again revived pleasant 
memories of events which transpired on previous 
trips, and of many kind acts of hospitality by 
former Factors who had resided there. Owing 
to our haste, we did not stop, but gave it a wide 
berth, and proceeded at once to the outlet of the 
lake. At this place the Missinaibi River begins 
with a heavy rapid, known as the Brunswick. 




CHAPTER III 

THe Turbulent Missinaibi 

T the head of the Brunswick Rapids, 
and on the opposite side of the river 
to the trail, was an Indian encamp- 
ment. There a stop was made, 
and while the guides took observa- 
tions on the rapids, Harold, the Assistant Chief, 
took observations on the ladies of the wigwam. 
Many pleasant smiles were exchanged between 
them. On the return of the guides, we crossed 
to the portage side of the river, and there part of 
the goods was unloaded on the sloping bank, to 
be carried over the trail, while the guides ran the 
rapids with the lightened canoes. 

Now, there chanced to be a box of instruments, 
weighing a hundred pounds or more, that had 
to be carried over the portage. Harold, not to 
be outdone by the Indians, who were displaying 
their strength before the brunette on the opposite 
bank, and considering himself no weakling, under- 
took to carry this box, the heaviest in the pile. 

With a mechanical air, he strode up to the box, 
and, kneeling, placed the pack-strap around it 
in the usual manner. Putting the carrying part 

i8 



THE TURBULENT MISSINAIBI 19 

of the strap across his forehead, he arose with a 
smile of triumph — all too soon, for the strap 
was too long, the box shifted, and the would-be 
Hercules, toppling over backwards, landed amongst 
the pots, kettles, and cutlery of the cook's box. 

A loud burst of laughter came from the lady 
on the opposite bank, who evidently enjoyed the 
joke on the white upstart. Harold, much abashed 
by the hilarity of the dark beauty, resolved on 
turning the joke, and, after adjusting his strap, 
picked up the box, and adding still another pack- 
age to his load, walked down the trail with defiant 
step, which however slackened as soon as he 
was hidden from view by the bushes. 

After the rapids, the river enters a low, marshy 
country, which is known as the Little Swampy 
Ground. The night was spent on an immense 
rock, practically the only dry spot within several 
miles. Surrounded by millions of frogs in the 
adjacent swamp, we laid our tired bodies down, 
hoping for rest in sleep, but only to grow mentally 
weary of the greatest chorus of croakers that 
it has ever been our misfortune to be thrown 
among. 

The next day was one of most interesting 
experiences. We had been going only half an 
hour, when a moose was seen swimming across the 
river ahead of us. Quick and silent paddling 
soon brought us within range, and Isaiah, who 
was in the bow of the canoe, brought him, a two- 



20 7A^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

year-old bull, down with a well-aimed shot, just 
as he reached the bank. 

Fifteen minutes was all that was required by 
the guides to dress the carcass and we resumed 
our journey, leaving a portion of it cached for 
some fortunate traveller who might be following 
behind us. Several other moose were seen during 
the succeeding days, but it has always been our 
rule never to take life unless it is necessary for 
the purpose of securing food. Consequently, they 
were not molested. 

We soon passed out of the sluggish waters of 
Little Swampy Ground and entered a long stretch 
of heavy rapids, full of rocks. The waves were 
very large in places, and at times threatened to 
swamp the canoes, but thanks to our dusky guides, 
only a small quantity of spray was shipped, a 
mere shower-bath. 

Next came the Long Rapids, which are said 
to be the most dangerous on the upper river. 
These we had never run on any of the previous 
trips. The chief danger lay in two chutes, each 
about an eighth of a mile long. In these the 
water is deep but the waves are very high, so 
that when in the trough it wotild be impossible 
to see over the crest. We got through safely and, 
although drenched to the hide and shivering with 
the cold, pronounced it the finest ride of our lives. 

Another rapid was entered shortly after, which 
was also long and dangerous, owing to a sharp 




The Brunswick Rapids 




The Split Rock Falls 



THE TURBULENT MISSINAIBI 21 

ledge of rock with a shallow covering of water* 
the channel leading over it. This rapid was 
passed through safely, although we scraped over 
the rock, much to our discomfort of mind. 

A short distance farther down the river, Big 
Swampy Ground was entered. The water was 
very high and all that could be seen for a great 
distance ahead was scrubby swamp and an occa- 
sional clump of trees. 

We stopped for dinner at one of our old camping 
places, a large outcrop of rock rising prominently 
in the midst of the swamp. As the sun was 
bright and warm we got fairly well dried out, 
and with a good warm dinner added to that, 
again resumed our journey, feeling in good trim 
for the rather dangerous course of the afternoon. 

We arrived at Green Hill Portage at five o'clock, 
having travelled in one day exactly the same 
distance that is usually covered in two. As it 
was still early in the day, we were able to get all 
the goods over the portage, three quarters of a 
mile of hard climbing, and make our camp at the 
foot of the slope, beside the rushing water of the 
lower Green Hill Rapids. 

To the writers this was a memorable spot, for 
it was there they had their first experience of 
running a rapid without a guide. It is enough to 
say that on the present occasion no experiments 
were tried. Perhaps no place on the river affords 
such a picturesque spot for camping as this. 



22 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Many a weary traveller has made his bed of 
boughs on this beautiful slope of the river bank, 
and has laid himself down thereon, to be lulled 
to sleep by the song of the rushing waters below. 

It was here also that on a previous occasion we 
had given up hope of ever seeing our guides and 
canoes again. We had separated on the upper 
end of the portage, the guides leaving to run the 
dangerous rapids, and we to walk the trail. Natu- 
rally, it was expected that they would be awaiting 
us at the lower end. Little wonder then that, 
after waiting for two hours, we should have con- 
cluded that an accident, probably fatal, had 
befallen them, and that long before our arrival, 
guides and canoes had been swept down by the 
terrific current. 

The feeling of dismay and horror at being left 
in such a serious plight, without canoes or guides, 
came back afresh this evening. We remembered 
with much amusement how, after pulling our- 
selves through the tangled bush along the river- 
side for more than a mile, we found the guides 
busy mending their canoes, which had been dam- 
aged on the rocks, and that a general feast was 
declared, treasured dainties being unearthed from 
private pack sacks to be shared by all the party. 
Such events as these can never be forgotten, and 
the memory of them can bring nothing but 
pleasure. 

Up to this time we had been working very hard, 



THE TURBULENT MISSINAIBI 23 

and the trip was beginning to have a tiring effect 
on our muscles, soft from months of disuse. 
Little wonder then that we did not rise the next 
morning until after six o'clock. However, we felt 
very much refreshed and did not regret the delay. 

Much rough water lay ahead, and early in the 
day some of the party got badly drenched while 
running a rapid above Split Rock Falls. The 
latter is another beauty spot. The water rushes 
through a steep walled canon for several hundred 
feet, and then plunging through a cleft in the rock, 
falls to a lower level. The cleft is at an angle to 
the vertical and is only about twenty-five feet 
wide. Its sides, which are perfectly smooth, are 
parallel to each other. Through the gap the 
water moves so turbulently that it makes a loud 
roar, which is greatly intensified by the rocky 
chamber. Everything had to be portaged here, 
but the trail was neither rough nor long, and we 
were able to reach the next portage at St. Paul's 
Rapids, or, as it is sometimes called, Thundering 
Water, by noon. 

This is really a great chute, the water plunging 
madly over huge rocks and dropping through a 
vertical distance of twenty feet, in a length of 
about two hundred, to drown its turbulence in 
the quiet of a sandy bay below. It formed a most 
beautiful picture as we viewed it from the foot, 
huge volumes of the spray being turned into fleecy 
whiteness by the rays of the midday sun. 



24 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

What delightful weather those May days afforded 
us! The atmosphere was clear, and where the 
river's course was straight, long stretches of fir 
and poplar clad banks could be seen. The inter- 
mingling shades of green on the sloping hillsides, 
in the bright sunlight of the spring day, were 
more beautiful than any colour blending ever 
produced by the hand of man. This was nature's 
picture gallery and none could appreciate it 
better than we. 

The next day was rather a strenuous one. We 
portaged once, shot several rapids, and covered a 
long stretch of smooth water. 

Of the rapids passed through that day, Dipple 
was the worst, and in fact one of the most danger- 
ous rapids on the route. At this point the banks 
come closer together, causing a greater depth of 
water, which rushes furiously over and amongst 
the huge rocks scattered about the river bed. 
Owing to the boisterous state of the water great 
care had to be exercised. 

Isaiah led the way, as was his usual custom, 
while the other boats followed at a safe distance. 
As we were drawn into the sweeping current, the 
ever familiar order, "paddle up," was given. 
Now there was no time to think of danger ahead, 
it was every man's duty to take his quickest and 
longest stroke. One moment we were down in 
the trough of the wave with nothing but a surg- 
ing torrent ahead of us, the next, borne high on its 






Wm^:^ 




The Poplar-Clad Banks 




iM 



M'Ak 




^mx 






Shooting Double Portage Rapids 



THE TURBULENT MISSINAIBI 25 

crest and ready to dash into the swirling trough 
before us; then, taking the leap, we were enveloped 
in spray, emerging from the adventure like drowned 
rats. The danger past, as is the rule, we turned 
to see the others get their baptism. It was always 
good fun to watch the other fellow enter what we 
had already passed through. 

A long stretch of smooth water brought us to 
Brunswick Portage. This trail has no connection 
with the Missinaibi River course, but leads off 
to Brunswick Lake, about three quarters of a 
mile distant. Strange though it may seem, one 
sometimes finds pleasure in meditating on events 
which in their occurrence have been anything 
but pleasant. Coming up to Brunswick Portage, 
we were reminded very vividly of an experience 
we had on that trail the year previous. 

We were returning from a six weeks' trip down 
the river with our guides, Louis and Thomas, two 
of the best that have ever accompanied us. Reach- 
ing the mouth of the Brunswick River, they in- 
formed us that if we were to leave the Missinaibi 
and follow the former up to and across the lake 
of the same name, coming back to the latter 
by the portage in question, we would not only 
find the route shorter but might be able to sail 
across the lake. Always ready to adopt time and 
labour-saving methods we agreed to their proposal. 

Unfortunately the water in the Brunswick 
was low, the rapids difficult of ascent, and much 



26 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

of the distance to the lake we traversed along the 
bouldery river shore, while the guides poled the 
canoe. Reaching the lake, a fine body of water 
ten to fifteen miles long, we unfurled our sails 
to a fair wind, and as is customary when paddles 
give way to sails, settled down to an easy time. 

Alas! as is so often the case, when hopes are 
centred on mast and canvas, the wind soon went 
down and we were left becalmed, despite the 
fact that we reverted to the time-honoured Indian 
custom of whistling for the wind. Nature and 
the guides asserted that we would have to get 
busy and return again to our paddling. 

It took much longer to cross the lake than the 
guides had anticipated and when the other side 
was reached it was long past the time for our even- 
ing meal. We were still far from the portage, 
but just how far, Louis and Thomas did not know. 
However, keen appetites and a beautiful spot 
coloured by a cluster of mountain ash, rich in 
autumn foliage and berry, beguiled us to linger 
long enough to satisfy the inward cravings. 

Supper over, we started again, although it was 
almost the close of the day. At last, with the 
keenness for which the Indian is noted, the trail 
was found at the end of a long, winding arm of 
the lake, just as darkness was closing down. 
There was nothing within our view but marsh 
and the dim outline of a hill beyond, and as it was 
necessary to seek a higher level, we decided that 



THE TURBULENT MISSINAIBI 27 

it was better to cross the portage to the river- 
side. 

All the goods that were necessary for the camp 
were picked out and shouldered. The guides 
led the way, we two following behind, and thus 
began a tramp through swamp and over rocky- 
hills such as we had never experienced before. 
The evening was intensely hot, the humidity 
great, and before we had gone a hundred yards, 
knee-deep in the swamp, we were literally bathed 
in perspiration. 

The guides, walking swiftly, soon were ours no 
longer, and by the time we had gotten out of the 
swamp and about halfway up the rocky hill, the 
trail ceased to be discernible. Luckily, one of us 
was carrying a lantern, which was then brought 
into requisition. The globe, unfortunately, was 
black with smoke from the previous using, and 
in order to get even a dim light, the wick had 
to be turned high. This caused an ill-smelling 
smoke to rise to the face of the one who was the 
unlucky bearer, which in the temperature of 
ninety degrees made his position anything but 
an enviable one. 

By lantern light we started to climb the great 
ledges of rock, but soon no trail was to be seen. 
We called to the Indians but got no answer. 
Retracing our steps to the swamp, where we found 
the trail, we made another attempt to climb 
the hill but with the previous result. Returning 



28 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

again to the well-marked trail below, we proceeded 
on our way with the lantern held to the ground. 
Reaching the edge of the rock, we detected a light 
streak thereon and followed it foot by foot, over 
the hill and down to the trail on the other side, 
leading into the bush. There, unfortunately, 
the trail divided. 

A consultation was held to decide which way 
we should take, and choosing the one leading to 
the right, we ''got left," finding it to be a blind 
path, and had to retrace our steps back to the 
place where the paths met. There was only one 
course now to take and that led through the thick 
bush. The trail was bestrewn with fallen trees, 
some of which lay high and were difficult to cross, 
laden down as we were. 

In going over one of these big-branched fallen 
trees the bearer of the lantern fell into a maze of 
limbs and out went the light. Almost discouraged 
and exhausted we again lit the lantern and pur- 
sued our onward course. Not far beyond was a 
gully with a small running stream which had to 
be crossed on a fallen log. It was now the other 
man's turn to meet with misfortune and down he 
went into the mud and water below. 

Laying off his load on a dry spot, the partner 
went to the fallen man's assistance and succeeded 
in getting him and his pack sacks out of the mire. 
Seated on a log, out of breath, and well-nigh dis- 
couraged with this mode of transportation, we 



THE TURBULENT MISSINAIBI 29 



were resting for a few moments when, out of the 
stillness of the night, broken only by the song of 
the ever-present mosquito, came a most welcome 
sound, the shouting of men. We listened intently 
for a repetition, which soon followed, and behold ! 
it was our ever-faithful guides, searching for the 
strayed ''tenderfeet." 

We hastily jumped to our feet, and getting all 
our pots, kettles, pack sacks, etc., into place, 
hastened ahead to meet the Indians. After a 
few other minor mishaps, we reached the edge of 
the bush, where Louis and Thomas were awaiting 
us, ready to share our burdens and lead the way 
to the camp which they had prepared on the 
riverside. 

Now that we were passing the scene of the 
adventure we went over the story again and 
laughed heartily at what had been our worst 
experience on a trail. 

We reached Devil's Chute at noon and dined 
in the shade of an upturned canoe, a precaution 
that was necessary, owing to the great heat of the 
sun. We were now getting down from the height- 
of-land into the Moose basin, and every day 
brought warmer weather. The chute is a large 
and beautiful one and we were sorry when the 
time came for us to leave the picturesque spot. 

About five o'clock in the evening we passed 
through the Albany Rapids and decided to camp 
for the night. The camp was an excellent one. 



30 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

As it was early, there was plenty of time to set 
up the tents, cut boughs for the beds, build a 
roaring fire, and allow Isaiah to exert his best 
efforts in the culinary art. 

By virtue of an early start the next morning 
we were able to reach the railway crossing by 
noon, after passing Beaver Portage, Glass Falls, 
and Crow Rapids, all of which helped to maintain 
our interest and excite our admiration. 

We thus completed the first section of the trip, 
one hundred and sixty miles, in exactly five days, 
or an average of thirty-two miles per day. Good 
weather, high water, and a light load to lessen 
the labours of the portages, combined to furnish 
us with the most delightful business holiday that 
we can ever hope to enjoy. 

When the Crossing came into view, we scanned 
the river bank for some evidence of the arrival 
of the other members of the expedition for whose 
sake, so that they might not be kept waiting, 
we made the quick descent of the river, and who 
were to meet us with all the supplies at this point. 

No tents were seen, and, upon landing, our sus- 
picion that the men had not arrived was confirmed. 
Seeing the Fire Ranger, resident at the Crossing, 
we inquired for them, and were informed that 
they were expected on the train arriving that 
afternoon. 




The Wavy Rapids 







At the End of a Portage Trail 




CHAPTER IV 
Off for Moose Factory 

FTER receiving news of the balance 
of the party, our first thought was 
to set up comfortable quarters, for 
it would take several days to get 
the provisions and the boats ready 
for the trip to Moose Factory. 

A short distance below the bridge was the 
engineering residency for a section of the railway, 
consisting of a group of well-built, log buildings. 
Near this there was a low spot in the bank of the 
river, where it would be easy to launch and load 
the boats, so we pitched our tents nearby. 

Visiting the residency, we were met by the 
engineer in charge, who proved very friendly. 
We were allowed the use of their private telephone 
line to Cochrane, and were thus enabled to 
straighten out many matters, which would other- 
wise have demanded our presence in that town. 

As train time approached we gathered at the 
bridge, its usual stopping place. Soon it pulled 
in with our three cars of boats and supplies and 
the men in the coaches. 

Much to our dismay, we found that three of 

31 



32 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

the men had not arrived and that the kerosene 
and gasoHne had not even been shipped, although 
the Montreal firm from whom it had been pur- 
chased were supposed to have sent it by fast 
freight, over two weeks previous. Both of these 
facts meant delay to the expedition. 

The work of unloading and transferring the 
boats and supplies was begun at once by the 
nineteen men now on the ground. 

We had lists prepared showing the amount of 
each article to be furnished each of the four parties, 
so that it was an easy matter to distribute the 
supplies and mark each package with the number 
of the party to which it belonged. While some 
of the men were busy with this work, the rest 
were launching the boats, which involved a suc- 
cessful trial of the farm wagon, which we had 
brought for the purpose of hauling the boats 
over just such ground as this. 

On the second day after our arrival, part of 
the men started down the river with a portion of 
the supplies. They were instructed to take them 
as far as the second portage, establish a cache 
there, and return to the Crossing for another load. 
The second portage is at Black Feather Rapids, 
about twelve miles below the railway. 

The motor-boat man who had been sent from 
Montreal to equip the boats and bring them by 
fast freight to the Crossing arrived on the after- 
noon train. This was the third day after the 




The Camp of the Railway Engineers, Missinaibi Crossing 




Wash Day in the Camp 



OFF FOR MOOSE FACTORY 33 

arrival of the boats. Had the fuel been on hand, 
this man's delay would have held up the whole 
party. He could give no satisfactory account of 
his movements despite the fact that he should 
have been the first man at the Crossing. 

The following day the men took another load 
down to the cache, this time with instructions to 
work ahead with what they had, but maintain 
their camp at Black Feather Rapids, so as to 
give assistance with the large boats, if it were 
required. 

It was a week before the rest of the men and 
the fuel arrived. In the meantime, some side 
trips were taken to obtain minor supplies or for 
recreation. One day was spent in visiting Hearst, 
a "mushroom" town on the National Transcon- 
tinental Railway, which had sprung up at what 
will be the junction with the Algoma Central 
Railway. It is situated on the Mattawishquia 
River, eighteen miles west of the Missinaibi 
Crossing. We covered the distance on a hand 
speeder in two hours. 

The town consisted chiefly of pool rooms, hotels, 
and general stores, a few dwelling houses, a club, 
and a barber shop. The place presented a scene 
of great activity, owing to the improvements 
both to the railway and to the town, which were 
being pushed with the utmost vigour. 

On Wednesday, June the sixth, the balance of 
the supplies and men arrived, and early on the 



34 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

following morning the camp was astir, packing 
the equipment, loading the boats, and making the 
final preparations for the start. 

At eight o'clock, farewells were said to the 
party at the residency, who had shown us so 
much kindness during our stay; and our motor 
boats, the very first to run on the Missinaibi 
River, chugged away from the crossing, thus 
beginning the long cruise to the "Land of the 
Silent North." 

The weather had changed and the morning 
was raw and cold, consequently the portage at 
Rock Island Chute, eight miles below, served the 
useful purpose of warming up a somewhat chilly 
party. The boats were taken down the rapids 
with half-loads, and without accident, but the 
balance of the goods had to be carried over the 
steep and slippery rocks of the trail. 

With twelve men in the party, portaging and 
reloading were quickly accomplished and we were 
soon on our way to Black Feather Rapids, where 
our advance party had been camped for a week 
and were eagerly awaiting our arrival. We 
reached their camp at noon and received a noisy 
welcome and a hot dinner. 

Black Feather Rapids is about half a mile long 
and has a channel on each side of the river. 
However, both are shallow, tortuous, and contain 
many rocks and much rough water. 

The channels were carefully investigated by 




Supplies and Equipment 




Preparing for the Start 



OFF FOR MOOSE FACTORY 35 

the guides before deciding to run the motor boats 
through the rapids, and when Isaiah said ''All 
right," excitement ran high, not only among 
those who were to man the boats, but also in the 
others, who were to be the onlookers. Had the 
running of these rapids been a frequent occur- 
rence, it could not have been done even then 
without much misgiving, but this was an experi- 
ment and naturally might prove a serious one. 

The channel on the side of the river opposite 
to that of the trail was the one chosen as the 
most suitable for the motor boats. 

The crew consisted of the engineman, pilot, and 
four polemen. With words of encouragement 
from those left behind they started out and, 
making a detour, were soon across the river and 
rushing swiftly into the surging torrent below. 
Now they were being carried one way and then 
another. Sometimes, in spite of all efforts, rocks 
were encountered, at others the boat was lashed 
by heavy waves. Soon the dangerous places 
were passed, from the foot of the rapids the boat 
shot out into quiet water, and the feat of running 
Black Feather Rapids by motor boat was accom- 
plished. 

The same party then returned to bring down the 
other boat. The trip was started with greater 
confidence than the previous one, but the boat 
w^as doomed to suffer accident. Early in the 
descent, some of the men lost their poles, through 



36 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

jamming them between rocks and, being unable 
to release them, could not control the movements 
of the stern. Consequently, the boat suddenly 
turned cross- wise to the current and was thrown 
heavily on the side of a rock, where she hung 
balanced amidships. The force of the collision 
was so great that the boat was lifted partially 
out of the water, and in slipping back, unfortu- 
nately, dipped the upstream gunwale under 
water. The boat filled rapidly, but did not slip 
entirely off the rocks, although it was about 
three-quarters full of water. 

The anxious onlookers immediately jumped 
into their canoes and were soon across from the 
other side and within a hundred feet of the wrecked 
boat. By first throwing a light line, a heavy one 
was soon stretched from the boat to the land, 
which was sufficiently long to allow the relief 
party to run out to the foot of the rapids and pull 
themselves up to the boat with it. Several trips 
were made and the most perishable goods re- 
moved. By the use of the block and tackle and 
the full force of men, the boat was finally gotten 
off and lowered to the foot of the rapids. 

By the time that the boat, which was slightly 
damaged, was beached for repairs, the day was 
well advanced. In the other boat and canoes we 
proceeded down the river about five miles and 
camped for the night. 

The next morning, early, a trip was made back 



OFF FOR MOOSE FACTORY 37 

with the motor boat and several of the canoes 
to Black Feather Portage. By noon, the complete 
fleet, boats and canoes, now in full repair, were 
assembled at the upper end of Kettle Portage, 
which leads around falls, about twelve feet high. 

The trail is only about three hundred feet long 
and crosses rough rocks, in which many pot-holes 
have been worn, hence the name. 

This was the first time we had to take the boats 
out of the water, but after a number of slippery, 
poplar logs had been laid across the trail, little 
difficulty was found in pulling the boats over to 
the other side. All the supplies and equipment 
were gotten over the trail by the evening and we 
remained there overnight. 

In the morning we, the members of the chief 
party, decided to proceed, accompanied by the 
mining engineer, his assistant, and four Indians, 
to the portage at Conjuring House Falls, where 
considerable clearing of the trail had to be done 
before the wagon could be used to draw the 
boats across. The balance of the party were 
instructed to follow with the motor boats and 
the major part of the supplies. The river be- 
tween Kettle and Conjuring House portages 
being very shallow and full of rapids, it was 
apparent that the supplies would have to be 
brought down in relays, and hence we could 
clear a large part of the trail before their 
arrival. 



38 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

An early morning start brought us through 
many dangerous rapids to our destination, a 
distance of nearly twenty miles, by noon. As 
soon as dinner was over the guides began the 
return journey to Kettle Portage for another load, 
and we "packed" our dunnage over the trail to 
what proved to be an ideal spot for a camp on the 
side of a hill, where the trail runs down to the 
river. 

The afternoon was fearfully hot, but fortunately 
the flies had not yet appeared in great nimibers, 
and the work of brushing the trail was by no means 
unpleasant. 

The following day being Sunday, we took ad- 
vantage of it to get rested and to visit the falls 
and the canon. Nowhere on the whole river does 
the scenery compare with that at this place, and 
on each trip we have visited it with renewed 
interest and admiration. 

At the close of the day, we stood again about a 
quarter of a mile beyond the falls, on the brink of 
the precipice which forms the wall of the canon. 
The sun was sinking, a great red ball of fire, beyond 
the tree tops far along the river valley. Fluffy, 
silken clouds were hovering, golden, in the last 
rays of sunlight, and darker clouds beyond formed 
a background of purple. It was a royal sky, a 
fitting throne for the monarch who created those 
beautiful hills and magnificent waterfalls. 

As far as eye could see, lay the rolling country, 



OFF FOR MOOSE FACTORY 39 

thickly wooded, although in places the ravages of 
fire were all too plainly visible, leaving naked 
hills, which seemed to blush as their seared brown 
tops reddened in the sunset glow. 

Far into the distance, through the valley, 
wound the shimmering stream, as it glided along 
into turbulence, here to melt into the shady dark- 
ness of a bend, there to reappear again, a silver 
line, which seemed to come and go, even as the 
flickering stars, when the twilight is deepening. 

Below us lay the camp, the smoke lazily curling 
from the evening fire; the tents nestled amongst 
the fresh, green poplars had an air of coziness, 
a fitting substitute for the comforts of the home, 
or even the luxuries of a palace. 

Immediately below lay the steep-walled caiion, 
one hundred feet down to the rushing waters of 
the cataract. From far up the river came the 
waters of the rapids, plunging madly onward, to 
be divided by a huge rock, around which they 
rushed to meet again at the falls, a seething, boil- 
ing mass of foam and spray, and to plunge a 
second time to a still lower level. Repeating 
this again and again, they at last pass out of the 
cafion, deep and silent, into the broadening nver 
beyond. 

From w^here we stood, the roar was deafening, 
and as the darkness gathered, we saw, looming 
up in the centre of the caiion, the pinnacle of rock 
from which the place derives its name. Coupling 



40 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

our imagination with that of the redman of a 
hundred years ago, we pictured weird spirits 
hovering around this rock, foreteUing events of 
good or ill, and as we wended our way back to 
the camp, it was with the wish that we might 
bring back some of the long-departed spirits of 
these simple "children of nature," that they might 
recount some of the old legends of the Conjuring 
House. 

Next day we went back a mile to another port- 
age, over which we expected the boats would 
have to be carried, and as we were cutting out, 
almost the last log, the boats began to arrive. 
The canoes ran the rapids with half-loads, but 
the motor boats were emptied and lowered down 
close to the shore, with the help of ropes and poles. 
No chances could be taken here, for immediately 
below, the rapids end in abrupt falls, which would 
prove disastrous to any boat that became uncon- 
trollable. 

The meeting of the divided parties was the 
occasion for recounting stories of events that had 
occurred since they parted. One that concerned 
all, was the swamping of one of the motor boats 
in a rapid. Engineman Johnston and George, 
one of the guides, were making a trip of about ten 
miles, on the previous Saturday evening. Un- 
fortunately, in the gathering darkness of the 
evening, the pilot failed to detect a slightly sub- 
merged rock and ran the bow of his boat hard upon 




The Conjuring House Canon 




The Conjuring House 



OFF FOR MOOSE FACTORY 41 

it. The stern dipped, she filled with water, and 
then listed to one side, throwing a good part of 
her cargo overboard. She, however, remained 
fast on the rock until relief came. 

In the meantime, George, the pilot, who pre- 
ferred to risk getting to land, rather than stop 
with the boat, jumped into the water and luckily- 
succeeded in reaching the shore. He was then 
eight miles from the camp, which he attempted 
to reach in his bare feet, having left his boots in 
the boat, but finally had to give up, and lying 
dow^n, waited for the coming of daylight. 

Johnston on the other hand stayed by the boat, 
standing for fourteen hours on the rock that had 
caused the accident. The pedestal of this living 
piece of statuary was only about two feet square. 
When interviewed, subsequently, Johnston said 
that he had spent the night in the singing of 
hymns and in meditating on the merits of his 
past life, an experience which has no doubt been 
of profit to him. 

By this accident we were deprived of about 
fifteen hundred pounds of bacon, flour, and dried 
fruit, which proved to be a loss that could not be 
entirely replaced. 

The supplies and canoes having been portaged 
across the Conjuring House Trail, preparations 
were made for the moving of the motor boats. 
The broad-tired wagon was set up, with extended 
reach, and a boat placed thereon and securely 



42 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

lashed. A fifty-foot hawser was then fastened 
to the tongue and everything was ready for the 
start. Half of the party pulled by the rope, while 
the rest arranged themselves in various positions, 
to push the wagon or to use the snubbing rope, 
when the rapidity of descent required it. 

The trail which had been cleared to a width of 
twenty feet was comparatively smooth, although 
there were a few rough, rocky spots. About five 
hundred feet from the northern end of the portage 
a descent of one hundred feet was begun. At 
this point further hauling was unnecessary, and 
the men at the tongue needed only to steer the 
wagon down the rugged, winding path, while 
those behind controlled the speed with the 
snubbing rope. 

The moving of each boat required about ninety 
minutes, and was done when the temperature was 
the highest it had been that season. When 
the thermometer was read at four o'clock in the 
afternoon, it still registered 84 degrees in the 
shade. The addition to this heat of an introduc- 
tion to the season's mosquito pest provided a 
strenuous afternoon for the whole party. 

Now came the farewell night at Conjuring 
House. After an hour spent in catching a fine 
string of pickerel, we ascended the hill to again 
see the sun dipping into the horizon and bathing 
the magnificent scenery with its golden rays. 

Early the next morning we moved on to Store 



OFF FOR MOOSE FACTORY 43 

Portage, a distance of about two miles beyond 
Conjuring House, where our tents were again 
pitched. Here three-quarters of^a mile of trail 
had to be cleared, a temporary bridge constructed, 
and the boats and supplies carried over. 

On the morning of the third day after our arrival 
at Store Portage, we started for the last and longest 
portage, about half a mile distant, which is known 
as the Long Portage. 

Here a heavy rain of twenty-four hours dura- 
tion seriously hampered the clearing of the trail. 
However, we cut a roadway twenty feet wide and 
a mile and three-quarters long, and carried across 
the four and a half tons of supplies and equipment, 
seven canoes, and two motor boats, inside of four 
days. 

This and the two former portages were over 
high plateaus, with steep ascents on either side. 
Block and tackle was used to raise the boats on 
the ascents at the Store and Long portages, and 
on the latter to lower them down to the river 
level, an all but vertical drop of one hundred feet. 

The last portage was finally crossed, much to 
our delight, and the services of the wagon were 
no longer required, but another dangerous rapid 
lay very close ahead, Hell's Gate, and rightly 
named. These rapids must of necessity be run, 
owing to the steep, rocky hills on both sides of 
the river, over which it would be impossible to 
portage anything. 



44 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

■ The water, which at first had been very high, 
was becoming noticeably lower in the river and 
we were growing anxious regarding the crossing 
of the motor boats over the Moose River flats. 
It was therefore decided to have them start for 
Moose Factory without delay, and leave the 
canoes to follow with the remaining supplies. 

As we had to visit the gypsum beds, which are 
situated on the Moose River, about thirty-five 
miles from Moose Factory, we planned to go on 
one of the motor boats, taking engineer Strong 
and his assistant with us. 

As a full cargo could not be taken through Hell's 
Gate, it was arranged to have the canoes accom- 
pany us with small loads through the rapids, and 
transfer their loads to the boats at a point below. 

The running of Hell's Gate Rapids had been the 
subject of almost daily discussion, since the com- 
mencement of the trip, and the preparing of the 
boats and the selection of their crews caused no 
little excitement. 

Isaiah, who had made a trip through the rapids 
on the previous afternoon, gave the canoemen 
instructions by which to follow the best course, 
especially as to the crossing and recrossing of the 
river to avoid dangerous currents, etc. 

Everyone being ready, the start was made. 
Leaving the small bay which lies at the foot of the 
portage, in which there is a strong back current, 
we made a dash across the swift water at the foot 




Hauling a Motorboat over Conjuring House Trail 




^ 




The Long Portage Rapids 



OFF FOR MOOSE FACTORY 45 

of the Long Rapid, below which a bend in the 
river ends in the first chute, to a backwater on the 
other side. This course was necessary in order 
to avoid being drawn into a strong whirlpool 
which occurs at the right-hand side of the first 
chute. 

It was with difficulty we stemmed the strong 
current, but the cut was made successfully. The 
most exciting moment came when we started to 
run the first chute. The whirlpool was avoided 
and, although the waves were large and irregular, 
we took little water in the descent, except as 
spray, which was thrown completely over us, 
when a large wave would be struck. 

The succeeding chutes were equally well taken, 
the pilot showing wonderful skill in making the 
necessary sharp turns, while passing through the 
**Gate," which is formed by two perpendicular 
rocks, but a short distance apart, on opposite 
sides of the river. The river bends at the ''Gate" 
and the water rushes through with tremendous 
rapidity. 

All the canoes and the other motor boat got 
through safely and, being in the lead, we were 
privileged to watch their descent, which was 
equally as exciting as our own, and undoubtedly 
the most thrilling experience on the river trip. 




CHAPTER V 

Down tKe Moose Valley to tKe Sea 

T a point about two miles below Hell's 
Gate the goods were reloaded into 
the motor boats, which were to pro- 
ceed, each towing a canoe. The 
other five crews, with their canoes, 
returned for the rest of the supplies. 

The afternoon's trip was made without inci- 
dent, save for the fact that it was the first long 
run of the boats in smooth water. A short call 
was made at the kaolin deposit, about five miles 
below Coal Brook. These claims have been 
staked and are being developed by a Montreal 
syndicate, and give promise of great value as soon 
as transportation facilities are available. 

Camp was made that night about fifteen miles 
below the mouth of the Wabiskagami River, a 
stream which we had good reason to remember, 
for on a previous trip we spent a day in ascending 
it, a distance which required but two hours to 
descend on the following day. 

The next day we passed the mouth of the Opa- 
zatiki River and ran a number of small and in- 
significant rapids, amongst these the Blacksmith's 

46 



DOIVN MOOSE VALLEY TO THE SEA 47 

Rapids, where we stopped to examine some thin 
bands of lignite in the clay bank, of which the 
Indians had told us. 

The next camp was about fifty miles below the 
mouth of the Opazatiki River. Two hours on 
the following morning brought us to the junction 
of the Missinaibi and Mattagami rivers, whose 
waters unite to form the Moose River. The union 
of these creates a broad expanse of water, and 
beginning with Portage Island, at the junction, 
a chain of islands extends to the gypsum beds, 
about twelve miles below. 

We arrived at the gypsum beds at ten o'clock, 
and after an early dinner the Indians proceeded 
with the boats to Moose Factory, reaching there 
that evening, but our party of four remained, 
retaining one canoe. 

On the evening of the second day, the balance 
of the expedition passed our camp and, stopping 
for a few minutes, gave us the particulars of an 
accident, which cost us several hundred pounds 
of supplies, and nearly the lives of two Indians. 

On the day after our departure from Long 
Portage, two of the Indians, John and David, 
were running the Hell's Gate Rapids, and care- 
lessly allowed themselves to be drawn into the 
whirlpool. The canoe was almost immediately 
swamped. 

David, who could swim a little, tried to reach 
the shore, and was rescued more dead than alive 



48 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

by two men in a canoe. John held tightly to the 
half submerged craft, and was carried in this 
manner to a point near the foot of the rapids, 
where he was rescued in an almost exhausted 
condition. The boys had quite recovered from 
the effects of their experience and were with the 
rest of the party. This party continued on their 
way to Moose Factory, reaching there the following 
evening. 

Up to this time we had been suffering severely 
from the intense heat and the ravages of the black- 
flies and mosquitoes. On Sunday, June the 
twenty-third, the weather changed very suddenly 
with a complete reversal of the wind from south 
to north. The temperature had been very high all 
morning and dropped nearly to the freezing point 
within a few minutes. This was a very strong 
reminder that we were within the precincts of 
Hudson Bay, where sudden changes are very 
common. 

We started for Moose Factory on Monday morn- 
ing, and arrived there early the following morning. 
Considerable work had to be done in repairing 
the motor boats for their long cruise on the Bay. 
Instructions had been given the enginemen to 
have this work done by the time of our arrival, 
so that an immediate start might be made. 

Great was our surprise when we arrived to find 
that, despite the fact that the boats had been on 
the beach since the previous Friday, none of the 




Kaolin Deposit on the Missinaibi River 




Gypsum Beds on the Moose River 



DOJVN MOOSE VALLEY TO THE SEA 49 

work had been done. This was one of the condi- 
tions that helped to make the week a busy one, 
and we were detained at the Post until the next 
Monday morning. 

Immediately upon our arrival, we were informed 
that a bad feeling existed between the Whites and 
Indians of the party, and also that several of the 
men had threatened to return, rather than put 
out to sea in the small motor boats. 

It was at once evident that there was a hard 
problem to solve in holding the Whites and Indians 
together without friction, and in providing a 
means of transportation acceptable to all. 

It is a strange anomaly of the North Country, 
that circumstances often compel the employer 
to bow, at least temporarily, to the dictates of the 
employed, no matter how unreasonable they may 
be, consequently the greatest diplomacy must be 
resorted to, for an ill-chosen word might cause 
the disruption of a party, and defeat the aims of 
an expedition. 

It had been the imderstanding that the head 
guide, Isaiah, and his son, Henry, should accom- 
pany us on the trip up the Bay, one in each motor 
boat, as they were familiar with the route, having 
been our guides on the bay in 1907. 

As was originally planned, the rest of the guides 
were to return to Chapleau, but now as we had 
chartered a York sailboat for the season, Isaiah 
refused to go unless all of them were engaged for 



50 7^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

the trip and a local man procured to pilot the 
York boat. Rather than venture on the journey 
without guides, and as no others were obtainable, 
we acceded to their unreasonable demands. 

Owing to the loss of a large quantity of supplies 
on the river trip, we were forced to compile new 
lists, as the same kind of food could not be ob- 
tained at Moose Factory. However, we were 
able to procure sufficient provisions to make up 
for our losses. 

As had been our original intention, we decided 
to travel in one of the motor boats, with engine- 
man McFarlane, Isaiah, and Henry. Mr. Strong, 
his assistant, engineman Johnston, and two Indians 
were given the other motor boat. The balance 
of the party were to take the York boat, accom- 
panied by three Indians. 

Despite the fact that so many preparations 
had to be made for the long voyage, we were able 
to devote some time to the renewal of our ac- 
quaintance with the people of Moose Factory 
and those of the Revillon Post, northward on 
the mainland. 

The absence of many faces was noticeable. 
Prominent among those who had left the town 
were Archdeacon Rennison, and Mr. Patterson, 
the Hudson's Bay Company's Factor in 1907. 
The former was succeeded by the Rev. W. Hay- 
thomthwaite, and the latter by Mr. J. G. Mo watt. 

Several visits were made to the Industrial 



DOPVN MOOSE VALLEY TO THE SEA 51 

School, and to the gardens adjoining it, as well as 
to those of the mission house. Much credit is 
due to the Rev. Mr. Haythornthwaite and the 
nurse, Miss Barker, for their fine collection of 
vegetables, consisting of potatoes, turnips, carrots, 
beets, cabbages, cauliflower, tomatoes, etc., many 
of which we were privileged to test on our return 
to Moose Factory, at the close of the season. 

The Industrial School was in charge of Miss 
Johnston of Clarenceville, Quebec, assisted by 
Miss Taylor, a young English lady. During our 
short stay we were entertained most hospitably 
a number of times by these ladies, and we were 
much impressed by the great interest and 
enthusiasm they displayed in their work. 

Many of the Industrial School pupils had re- 
turned to their homes for the summer season, and 
there were only fourteen resident at the time. 
Many of the children of the town attend the 
mission day school. In the regular season the 
attendance is probably from forty to fifty. 

It was somewhat of a surprise, when visiting 
the Revillon Freres' Post, to find a large increase 
of buildings over those of 1907. A whole line 
of good substantial houses, built principally for 
their French Canadian employees, stretches along 
the river front for nearly a mile northward from 
the residence of the inspector, Mr. Y. Draulette. 

As we have stated previously, these people 
have shown a great deal of foresight in the selec- 



52 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

tion of their town site, for, with the exception of 
a mile and a half, they have the advantage of a 
twenty -foot channel to the Bay. 

As on the occasion of our former visit, Mr. Halle 
was in charge, and received us with politeness and 
friendliness, so characteristic of the French. Mr. 
and Mrs. Draulette had left on the Company's 
steamer Amelia for Strutton, the location of the 
wholesale house, on the day previous to our arrival 
in Moose Factory, to remain there until the 
autumn. 

On the Saturday previous to the day of sailing, 
all the men were assembled in a warehouse of the 
Hudson's Bay Company, in which our goods were 
stored, and a list of the supplies, required by 
each party for the season, was handed to the one 
in charge, with instructions to select them. 

The supplies being distributed were carried 
down to the dock and loaded on to the boats, 
after which the latter were taken out and anchored 
in the channel, preparatory to starting on Monday 
morning. 







The Moose River Post of Revillon Freres 





The Hudson's Bay Company's Buildings, Moose Factory 



CHAPTER VI 



Moose Factory to Rupert House 




ITH great enthusiasm, we welcomed 
the day on which we were once 
again to resume our journey. Mon- 
day, July the first, was a beautiful 
day, bright and sunny, and a gentle 
breeze was blowing. Although the camp was 
astir at an early hour, we did not raise anchor 
until half -past eight o'clock, owing to such delays 
as are always incident to an initial start. 

It was a gay sight, no doubt, as our small flotilla 
started down the river in Indian file, with our own 
boat leading, and the York boat with its old- 
fashioned sail bringing up the rear. 

Almost the whole population of Moose Factory 
seemed to be lined up on the edge of the river 
bank, to wish us hon voyage, and the party, eager 
with the expectation of new experiences, responded 
heartily. 

The passage down the river was uneventful, 
except that the wind soon began to fall, and the 
York boat was gradually left behind. The lower 
Moose River maintains the same general character 
as its upper part, dotted with islands, broad and 

53 



54 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

shallow, except in the channel. The river banks 
are high and lined with a fair growth of spruce, 
balsam, and poplar, until within a few miles of the 
Bay, where the shores become low and wet and 
the trees give way to willow scrub. 

From the river eastward, the southern coast of 
James Bay is desolate and drear. The shores are 
low and boggy, while the beaches are usually 
formed of large rounded boulders, and so gentle 
is their slope that in some places in Hannah Bay, 
during ebb-tide, the water recedes a distance of 
several miles. 

Voyageurs along this coast may suddenly find 
themselves in shallow water, and ere they have 
time to reach deeper, the tide may leave them 
stranded, high and dry, either on a rock pile or a 
mud flat, to their disgust if the weather be good, 
or to their peril if the incoming tide brings a storm. 
Indeed, these waters are considered the most 
dangerous of the Bay, and when we had crossed 
them and reached the Quebec coast, we felt that 
the most dangerous part of the trip was over, 
until we returned to the same point on our home- 
ward journey. 

After the mouth of the Moose River is passed, 
there are no islands until Big Stone is reached, 
on the west coast of Hannah Bay, near its most 
northerly point. On this island we had dinner, 
the first meal of the voyage. It is typical of a 
large number of the islands of James Bay, com- 




o 
o 

(J 

w 
-fcJ 

M 

a 



o 

o 
a 



O 

o 




MOOSE FACTORY TO RUPERT HOUSE 55 

posed of large boulders, heaped up into rounded 
humps, which attain no great elevation above the 
sea. 

The Indian's fear of losing sight of terra firma 
was well exemplified during the passage of Hannah 
Bay. The day continued a perfect one and the 
water was an oily calm, but instead of cutting 
across from Big Stone to East Point, the north- 
east extremity of Hannah Bay, about eighteen 
miles of open water, they followed a course parallel 
to the shore, and at no great distance from it, 
despite the obvious danger incurred. 

In fact, they hugged the shore so closely that 
we entered the fresh water of the Harricanaw 
River. This river enters the most southerly 
point of Hannah Bay. Physically it is much like 
the Moose, with low willowy shores and large 
high islands, for about seven miles from salt 
water, but it is not nearly so large. 

Our first camp on salt water was made on the 
Plover Islands, about sunset. These are the 
only islands on the east shore of Hannah Bay. 
At low tide they are very large, stretching out 
for many miles in every direction, as great mud 
fiats. At high tide there are only a few spots 
sufficiently large for camping purposes, and con- 
sequently no fresh water can be found upon them. 

The next morning, porpoises were seen for the 
first time. While standing on a large boulder 
looking eagerly westward for signs of the York 



56 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

boat, which had not yet appeared, we saw what 
at first seemed to be breakers on a distant shoal, 
but soon proved to be a school of porpoises gam- 
boling about in the water. 

We were unable to start early by reason of a 
stiff breeze which arose about daylight. When 
it had subsided, a little later, the tide was out 
and the boats were aground. We accordingly 
had to await high tide, and it was about one 
o'clock before the water was sufficiently deep to 
allow the motor boats to pull out. 

From the time of our sailing from Moose Factory 
until three o'clock of that afternoon, no marks of 
civilization had been visible. Considerable excite- 
ment was aroused by the looming up of a flag in 
the distance, waving above the trees along the 
snore. As we drew nearer it proved to be floating 
from the mast of a survey tower, set up by the 
engineers of the Hydrographic Department, who 
were then charting this portion of the Bay. 

When the tower was reached, a stop for dinner 
was made. We had watched anxiously for some 
sign of the York boat, and observations were 
taken from the tower, but without results. 

It was a beautiful, bright day, but intensely 
hot in the sun, so that when sailing, we were 
glad to creep under the shade of the canvas boat 
covers. One might well have thought we were 
in tropical waters, rather than in those o£ the 
''frozen north" (?). 



c; a 




MOOSE FACTORY TO RUPERT HOUSE 57 

Our supply of fresh water was now exhausted, 
as the demand made upon it had been severe, 
owing to the intense heat of the day. Accord- 
ingly, several groups went back into the bush to 
look for a stream or a spring. The rivalry was 
keen among the thirsty party, as to who should 
find it first. Eventually, water was found, not 
in a stream or in a spring, but in a stagnant pool. 
We were glad to carry even that a long distance 
to the camp, through bush, and willows still 
bearing many of last year's withered leaves. 
Needless to say, we had much less water and 
more leaves in our buckets when we arrived 
than when we started. 

This was a particularly interesting point, for 
we were then back in our own Province, Quebec. 
During the previous month, our course had lain 
entirely through Northern Ontario. We had 
chosen the Missinaibi route for two reasons: 
Firstly, on account of our familiarity with it; 
secondly, because of its few portages and ^com- 
paratively smooth water. These facts made the 
transporting of boats and supplies a simpler 
proposition than in the swifter waters of the 
more easterly rivers. 

The shores of the Ministikawatin peninsula, 
which divides Hannah Bay from Rupert Bay, are 
low and composed of great boulders lying in the 
utmost confusion. Great, long, bouldery points 
project at intervals from the mainland, terminat- 



58 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

ing in shoals, which extend far out into the Bay. 
Between these points, the water is generally 
shallow, consequently sailing there is dangerous. 
It is a conservative statement to make, that safe 
water for sailing cannot be had within a two-mile 
limit of the shore, and at that distance the depth 
must be carefully watched by sounding, for boats 
drawing more than two feet of water. No doubt 
this condition will be considerably alleviated, 
when the chart, which is now being prepared for 
the Government, is available to those who navigate 
these waters. 

There is nothing that causes so much concern 
to the navigator of James Bay, especially of the 
southernmost end, as the finding of harbours, 
and it is safe to say that a real one does not exist 
from the mouth of the Moose River to that of Ru- 
pert Bay. However, there are a few places where 
partial protection may be had for boats of light 
draught, but these are difficult of access, unless 
one is familiar with their channels at all stages 
of the tide. 

So much trouble and worry was experienced 
in finding places of safety during our cruise 
through these waters that we decided to compile 
a list of harbours, which it is hoped may prove 
of value to future travellers who journey without 
guides. The list is based on personal observation, 
and such information as could be obtained from 
Factors and natives of the country. 



MOOSE FACTORY TO RUPERT HOUSE 59 

The shore from this point forward is lined with 
a thick growth of spruce and balsam, most of 
which might be of value as pulp wood, and a small 
percentage would be large enough for building 
timber or for lumber. 

A short run during the balance of the afternoon 
brought us well in sight of Wood Island, one of 
the places we had planned to visit. The guides, 
evading our request to make the run across to the 
island, a distance of about eight miles, suggested 
camping at a point, midway between Sawayan 
and Point Comfort, on the mainland. We con- 
sented to this and planned to cross in the morning. 

Fortunately, the tide was high when we entered 
the little harbour, formed by two long, bouldery 
points, which nearly met but left a channel wide 
enough for the passing of a small boat. Unfor- 
tunately, as we afterward learned, the water 
receded entirely from the harbour (?) at low tide. 

We pitched our tent in the edge of the bush and 
had a most comfortable camp as there was plenty 
of firewood and fresh water. 

An early call in the morning, half past three 
o'clock, brought us to consciousness, after a rest- 
ful night's sleep. Packing our dunnage before 
breakfast, we made ready for the start. 

It was a pleasant surprise to find that the York 
boat had caught up with us during the night, and 
was anchored off the point, while the crew had 
slept on the deck of an old scow, which had been 



6o IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

cast up on the opposite side of the point to the 
one on which we were camped. 

It had evidently been planned by the guides 
that this should be a meeting point, and Isaiah's 
actions of the night before testified strongly to 
that effect. While we slept, they had no doubt 
held a consultation, for when Isaiah was ques- 
tioned as to whether he were ready to cross to 
Wood Island, he replied, ''Not me." The pilot 
of the York boat was then told to proceed on his 
course to Eastmain River, taking advantage of 
the fair wind that was then blowing, but he curtly 
replied that he did not know that course and was 
taking the boat to Rupert House. He was then 
shown Sherrick Mount, that was plainly visible, 
looming up but a few miles across Rupert Bay, 
and told that the course led to it and then up the 
coast. He obdurately refused to discuss the 
matter, although he had engaged as pilot of 
the York boat for the entire trip. 

This was now but the third day that the party 
had been out from Moose Factory, and everything 
was at a standstill for the time being. All the 
unreasonable demands of these guides being 
acceded to at Moose Factory, we imagined that 
such difficulties were finally settled, consequently 
this unlooked-for delay on such a fine day was 
most annoying. 

It was quite plain to us that the guides had 
combined to frustrate our plans, which were to 



MOOSE FACTORY TO RUPERT HOUSE 6i 

send one motor boat and the York boat ahead to 
the Eastmain River and up the coast to Clark 
Island, in Hudson Bay, while we proceeded to 
Rupert House and the mouth of the Nottaway 
River, and thence up the coast to Clark Island 
and the Nastapoka River. 

By the time that the argtiment was over, the 
tide was out and the boats were aground. To add 
to our troubles, the heat was intense, the most 
severe experience during the trip. To get relief, 
some of the party tried a dip in the bay, but en- 
countered something worse than the heat, the 
bulldog flies, which, they asserted, would pounce 
upon them, seize a portion of their flesh, somewhat 
less than Shylock demanded, and fly to a nearby 
tree limb, there to devour it at their leisure, and, 
no doubt, laugh at the dismay of their victims. 
We cannot vouch for the story, but it is certain 
that clothes were donned in haste when the on- 
slaught occurred, in some cases even before the 
plunge had been taken. These flies were cer- 
tainly a revelation to us. They were of enormous 
size, gave a vicious bite, and, although there were 
thousands of them about us, were so active that 
it was almost impossible to kill one of them. 

About four o'clock in the afternoon, Isaiah 
informed us that he would take the party to 
Rupert House and leave them there, and if we 
did not agree to this, he and his men wotdd 
forcibly take sufficient canoes to carry them back 



62 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

to Moose Factory. He was quickly informed that 
we had no intention of allowing them to do the 
latter, but if he wished to accompany us to Rupert 
House, he might, failing to do this, he would have 
to look for other accommodation by which to 
return to Moose Factory. 

As we have said before, the feeling between 
the Whites and Indians was not of the most friendly 
nature, and now the smouldering feelings of aver- 
sion in the Whites needed but a slight fanning 
of approval to cause them to break forth into 
flames of hostility. We discountenanced any 
show of active opposition among the men. 

In a short time everything was ready and a 
start for Rupert House made, the three boats 
leaving at the same time, and all under sail, as 
there was a light breeze. When out about two 
hours, the boats being half-way on their journey, 
the wind went down, and a fog settled around us. 

After following a very circuitous route through 
the fog, we arrived at the mouth of the Rupert 
River, about half past eight, and entered it at 
the same time as the other motor boat, which had 
taken a different course, but the York boat did 
not appear. 

We reached the anchoring place off the Rupert 
House pier about nine o'clock. The chug of the 
motor boat had attracted much attention in the 
little town, and by the time we drew up at the foot 
of the long, high pier, which extends weU out into 




kk "vii^,;^;^ 




The Dory in Sea-going Trim 





The Giant Bark Canoes from Waswanipi 



MOOSE FACTORY TO RUPERT HOUSE 63 

the river, nearly all the people had assembled to 
meet the incoming craft, and see who the intruding 
visitors might be. 

A great many of the Indian hunters of both 
trading companies were at the Post, and these 
combined to make a large concourse of people, 
who crowded the pier and the shores in the deep- 
ening twilight. ^ The dusky-faced crowd made 
quite an impression on the party, and the sight, 
combined with the heat of the evening, was such 
as to remind one strongly of that of a Mexican 
town, rather than one in the Province of Quebec. 

The York boat arrived during the night, and 
the next morning we were all assembled in camp 
on the shores of the Rupert River. There was 
also anchored in the river another York boat, 
which was carrying two naturalists from the 
Carnegie Museum in Pittsburg, who were delayed 
by the desertion of their Indian guides. In fact 
we were the third party of the season to have 
trouble with the Indians, which further convinced 
us of their unreliability as guides. Subsequent 
events only served to strengthen this conviction. 

After consulting with Mr. Nicholson, the Hud- 
son's Bay Company's Factor, he kindly interested 
himself on our behalf and located two guides, 
who were willing to accompany the York boat 
throughout the season, should we dispense with 
the services of the other guides. 

Later in the day, as was our usual custom, we 



64 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

paid our addresses to the officers of the Revillon 
Freres' Post, and found that the manager, Mr. 
Barbado, was absent, being at Nemiscow, one of 
their newly estabhshed inland posts, and the 
store in charge of Mr. Blais, whom we were to 
meet later, in the capacity of post manager at 
Fort George. Here we anticipated meeting Mr. 
Draiilette, who was expected on the Amelia, but 
that craft had not yet been heard from. 

We had the pleasure of making the acquaintance 
of the Rev. Mr. Woodall, who is the Anglican 
minister at Rupert House, while watching two 
giant bark canoes coming down the river. They 
were bringing the previous winter's fur catch 
from Waswanipi Post, by way of the portage route 
to Nemiscow, and thence down the Rupert River. 

In one of these canoes came Bishop Anderson 
of the Diocese of Moosonee, who had been visiting 
the parishes from Lake St. John to the Bay, the 
trip having occupied nearly two months* time. 
Although he had travelled so great a distance in 
this way, the Bishop stepped from the canoe, 
umbrella in hand, as neatly attired as though he 
were alighting from a parlour car. The flags of 
the place were raised in his honour, and the whole 
population turned out to meet him. 

On the following day, we decided to bring 
matters to a close with the guides, accepting what 
they had said at the last camp as final. They 
had then practically given notice and discharged 



MOOSE FACTORY TO RUPERT HOUSE 65 

themselves from our service, hence we had no 
further responsibility toward them, either for 
provisions, transportation, or wages. 

Accordingly, everjrthing belonging to us, then 
in their possession, was removed to our own tent. 
That we might not be misunderstood, we deemed 
it wise to invite the Bishop, Isaiah being a resident 
of his diocese, to come and interpret for him, and 
be present when we defined his position, conse- 
quent on the threat of the day previous. The 
position of the guides was anything but an en- 
viable one, as they were stranded, without either 
canoes or provisions, neither of which were easy to 
procure. 

The two other guides, to whom reference has 
already been made, were engaged to accompany 
the York boat on its voyage to Clark Island, 
starting the following morning. One motor boat 
was to accompany the York boat as far as the 
Eastmain River, and remain there during the 
summer months, in the absence of the party in 
charge of W. J. Donaldson, who was to investi- 
gate the resources of the river and some of its 
branches. 

Preparations were under way early the next 
morning for the start of the two boats, after, 
what we hoped to be, the last delay on the voyage 
to the North. At eight o'clock farewells were said 
and the two boats passed down the river, leaving 
us, our motor boat, and its engineman, behind, to 
5 



66 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

follow after and attend to certain work as we 
proceeded. Little did we realize that the summer 
would be almost past before we would see each 
other again. 



'CHAPTER VII 



A WeeK in Rupert Bay 






OW that the boats and their crews 
were dispatched, there was time to 
give to other matters of importance. 
During the afternoon an investiga- 
tion of the quality of the land and 
timber in the vicinity of Rupert House was made. 
We visited the property of the Revillon Freres 
and found they had cleared a large block of land, 
probably twenty-five acres, for agricultural and 
grazing purposes. Several of the employees of 
the Company had gardens of their own, and all 
of them were in a fairly flourishing condition, con- 
sidering the extreme lateness of the season. In 
these gardens the chief crop was potatoes. Their 
land, though of good elevation, requires consider- 
able drainage, as the topsoil contains much vege- 
table matter, which collects and holds the water, 
while the subsoil is a thick, blue gumbo, practically 
impervious to water. 

Their stock consists of twelve horses and a 
number of cattle, the latter being increased from 
year to year. The horses are used on the farm 
in summer, and in winter for the transporting of 

67 



68 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

supplies, to Nemiscow, a distance of one hundred 
miles inland. 

We next visited the property of the Hudson's 
Bay Company and examined the Factor's garden. 
This was a general vegetable garden. The soil 
was a light sandy loam, well drained and, due to 
long, careful cultivation, was in excellent condition. 
Lettuce, radishes, turnips, beets, parsnips, rhu- 
barb, etc., were growing in the greatest profusion, 
and several potato fields in the immediate vicinity 
were in an equally satisfactory state. 

From the Post we proceeded to the gardens of 
the Rev. Mr. Woodall and his native helpers. We 
found the soil to be of the same character as that 
of the French Company, but of course has im- 
proved during many years of cultivation. Here 
we found, also, most of the vegetables grown in 
more southerly gardens. 

The potatoes were not so far advanced as those 
in the garden of the Hudson's Bay Company, but 
this was due to the heaviness of the soil. One 
thing we can testify to, is the fine quality of some 
of Mr. Woodall 's vegetables, in particular lettuce, 
radishes,, and rhubarb, for he very generously 
shared with us those that weje ready for use, a 
kindness that we knew well how to appreciate, 
owing to the lack of such, during the two months 
previous. 

The season at Rupert House showed a wonderful 
advance over that at Moose Factory, for whereas 



A WEEK IN RUPERT BAY 69 

the Mission people were only planting their garden 
when we left, those of the former place were 
eating fully-grown radishes and lettuce when 
we arrived there. 

The statement was generally made that the 
season was the most backward in many years in 
the southern end of the Bay. However, it was 
difficult for us to realize the fact, for ever since 
coming into the locality, we had suffered with 
extreme heat, the temperature being well into 
the nineties. 

The soil at the Revillon clearing is fairly typical 
of the majority of that bordering on the river up 
to the first rapids. We did not cross to the north 
side of the river, but could see that there was quite 
an elevation back from the water. This ridge, 
we were informed, contains good agricultural 
land. 

There is a fringe of fairly good-sized timber 
along the banks of the river about the Post, but 
this gives place to stunted tamarack a short dis- 
tance inland. 

The river opposite the Posts is about a mile 
wide and broadens as it approaches the Bay, which 
is two miles or more distant. We were told that 
the channel is about eight feet deep at average 
high tide, and is very tortuous and narrow, but 
from the fact that a boat drawing thirteen feet 
of water entered there, since our visit, we think 
that the depth of channel has been underestimated. 



70 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

An event of interest, although it is said of not 
infrequent occurrence, took place one afternoon. 
After returning to the tent from our work, 
we were quite surprised to see a pretty young 
Indian girl rush in upon us, followed by a smiling 
young "buck" of twenty summers, and offer us 
her hand. Quite ignorant of their intentions, 
but attracted by the smile of the young lady, 
we jumped to our feet and shook her hand cor- 
dially, hoping that further greetings might be 
the order of the day. We were frustrated by the 
intervention of the young man, who stepped for- 
ward and offered his hand, also. 

The salutation over, the couple turned and 
vanished as quickly as they had come. Not 
knowing what it all meant, we followed them out 
and made inquiries from some of the onlookers. 
They informed us that the bell we had heard ring- 
ing a few minutes previous, and which we supposed 
to be calling the people to special service with the 
Bishop, was a wedding bell, and the visit we had 
just received was a time-honoured custom of the 
place, every tent and wigwam in the town receiving 
a like call from the bride and groom. 

The ceremonies of the day were brought to a 
close by a dance that night, which lasted to the 
' ' wee sma ' ' hours . This we knew to our sorrow, for 
our tent was adjacent to the carpenter shop, in 
which the celebration was held, and we were kept 
awake until daylight by the noise of the carousal. 



A WEEK IN RUPERT BAY 71 

On this same evening, we were privileged to 
observe a strange phenomenon. When walking 
leisurely along the shore about sundown, one of 
us observed quite a heavy cloud rising toward the 
mouth of the river, between us and the sun. It 
continued to rise higher and increase in volume, 
and we naturally thought it was smoke from a 
newly-made camp-fire. As the cloud increased 
in size, we began to wonder what could be so 
inflammable in such a marshy place. A stiff 
wind was blowing up the river, and the cloud 
gradually drew nearer. As it did, we heard a 
faint whirring sound, which increased as it came 
closer, to one like that of mill machinery. By this 
time it had attracted the attention of everybody 
around, and there was much conjecture as to 
what the phenomenon really was. 

It was not long before the whole shore line was 
a mass of moving life, for the cloud was made up 
of millions of small green flies, about the size of 
a mosquito. They were driven along by the 
wind, none remaining to tell us whether they were 
man-eating or not. 

Our attention was suddenly diverted from the 
foregoing incident by the appearing of a ship 
steaming up the Bay towards the mouth of the 
river. Her progress was very slow while crossing 
the bar, on account of the crookedness of the 
channel. She proved to be the Amelia, the one- 
hundred-ton steamer that plies between the whole- 



72 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

sale house at Strutton Island and the various 
Revillon Posts. 

Seeing the Amelia again was like meeting an 
old friend, as on our previous trip we had sailed 
ahead of her for a whole afternoon on her maiden 
voyage into the Bay. That occasion was a very 
unusual one for this coast and it is doubtful if the 
same thing had ever occurred there before, three 
steamers sailing together, the Stord, the Erid and 
the Amelia. That night we all dropped anchor 
together at Fort George. 

The coming of the Company's steamer is the 
most important event of the season at any of the 
Posts. When the usual time for its arrival comes, 
every Indian who is the possessor of a telescope 
or glass of any description keeps it in the most 
convenient place, and when he has any time to 
spare he may be seen, glass in hand, peering sea- 
ward from the dock, or some other place of vantage 
for a first glimpse of smoke. 

When the steamer is sighted the news of her 
coming spreads like wildfire, the Factor being the 
first to receive it, so that the post flag may be 
run up to welcome the officials who may be aboard 
and bringing the first mail the residents have had 
for several months. By the time that the boat 
reaches its anchorage, every man, woman, and 
child has assembled to welcome the visitors. 

The excitement was no less than usual on this 
occasion, and it proved an interesting experience 



A WEEK IN RUPERT BAY 73 

to mingle with the stoHd-faced crowd. Even the 
Husky dogs seemed bent on celebration, and we 
were privileged to witness several combats between 
them. 

The life of an Indian's Husky dog is probably 
less to be desired than that of any other creature. 
He is distinctly a cur in every sense of the word, 
the progeny of a mongrel ancestry, half domestic, 
half wild, the latter due to his close relationship 
to the wolf. He is bom under mean conditions, 
his life is made up of acts of meanness, by him 
and to him, and it is almost certain he will form 
food for his kin if his life closes while he is in 
harness. In his infant days he provides amuse- 
ment and exercise for the little Indian children, 
who are supplied with the largest stick they can 
swing with which to beat the poor fellow unmerci- 
fully, until he is able to make a safe retreat. His 
whole life is a struggle for existence, for when his 
mother ceases to provide for him, he is left pretty 
much to seek his own livelihood, whether it is 
gotten honestly or dishonestly. As his owner 
seldom provides him with food, he is ever on the 
alert to secure it, by fair means or foul, and who 
can blame him, poor creature ? 

When on our former trip to the country, we 
usually slept aboard the yacht or at the post houses, 
consequently we were not brought into such close 
touch with the dogs as on this occasion. This 
time we received a great deal of attention from 



74 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

them, and had the opportunity of becoming much 
better acquainted. 

In going from one Post to another we found 
that the propensities of the Indian dog are pretty 
much one and the same. The exact nature of 
these will be revealed as the story proceeds. 

While at Moose Factory, they made us visits 
in a very unceremonious manner. In fact they 
seemed to prefer calling when we were absent. 
At that time our own tent had no connection with 
that of the cook, consequently their visits were 
attended with but few results, either to them or 
to us. 

At Rupert House we were given every oppor- 
tunity to know them better. Our tent was 
pitched on the sandy beach of the Rupert River, 
close to the Hudson's Bay Company's store, 
and was surrounded by many wigwams and 
marquees of the visiting Indians, who as usual 
were present in whole families. These families 
are generally made up of three or four generations, 
with their dogs. When twenty or thirty families 
gather with their dogs, very often six or eight of 
the latter per family, as in this case, a lively time 
might naturally be expected, especially from the 
canines, who are all intent on the same thing — 
plunder. 

Up to the time of our separation with Isaiah, 
who was cook as well as guide, the provisions 
had been stored in his tent, but on that day we 




The Factor's Garden, Rupert House 



/ > 



w. 



^SmWm 



Rupert House 



A WEEK IN RUPERT BAY 75 

had transferred them to our own tent for safe 
keeping, and mindful of the surrounding dangers, 
we fortified ourselves as securely as pegs, boxes, 
and bags of heavy provisions would permit. 

Alas! how futile were our precautions. While 
the dance was proceeding near at hand, and we 
were tossing restlessly, unable to sleep because of 
the racket, behold the enemy came. A noise was 
heard by one, who called the other's attention to 
it, but the matter was dismissed as a delusion. 
Suddenly we espied to our right a dark object, 
which on our moving started, then vanished 
swiftly as a shadow through the flap of the tent. 
Rising to investigate, we found that our visitor 
had, at least, not departed hungry for he had eaten 
twenty pounds of lard from a tub that had not 
even been opened before. This was but an 
introduction of what was to follow, despite our 
best efforts to prevent a recurrence of the event. 

On Sunday we attended service in the Anglican 
church and saw the Bishop confirm six Indians. 
A quiet Sunday, with its services, was an enjoyable 
change after the excitement of the week. 

Our work nearing completion at Rupert House, 
it was necessary for us to come to some decision 
in the matter of guides. None were available 
immediately and as one month of the summer was 
already gone we knew that a further delay might 
prevent us from accomplishing the work we had 
set out to do. We had planned to go southward 



76 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

toward the mouth of the Nottaway River, and 
now decided to make this trip unaccompanied by 
guides. 

If the trip were made successfully we intended, 
on our return to Rupert House, to proceed north- 
ward in the same manner. We were quite aware 
what this decision would mean to us, how much 
our work would be increased. Soundings would 
have to be taken almost constantly, especially in 
James Bay, and the picking out of harbours, the 
putting up and taking down of the camp, the 
finding of wood and water, and, last but not least, 
the cooking, all of which would have been the 
work of the guides, would be added duties. 

It was decided to lose no time but to make a 
start southward on Monday morning. We had 
suffered so much from the onslaughts of the dogs 
that we took special precautions to make our 
provisions impregnable, as we thought, to their 
attacks, on the night previous to our departure. 
All the open packages were placed in the kitchen 
(a box we had designed for travelling, its purpose 
being to carry the dishes, cutlery, food, etc., the 
latter for one day) and the lid securely fastened. 
On top of this was laid a bag of flour, and beside 
it a five-quart pail of treacle, covered with a tight 
lid, the whole being enveloped in a large tarpaulin 
held in place with stones. This was placed on the 
outside of the tent so that the dogs would not 
tear the latter open to come in. 



A WEEK IN RUPERT BAY 77 

Imagine our surprise and dismay, when, on 
being awakened by a fearful crash outside of the 
tent, we rushed out to find that we had again 
been despoiled by the canine devils. Everything 
in the kitchen was in the greatest muss and con- 
fusion. Six pounds of boiled beef, a can of butter, 
and some stewed fruit had been appropriated, 
and a coating of blackstrap and sand had been 
generously distributed over the entire contents 
of the kitchen. How they managed the latter, 
we do not pretend to understand. 

It would be impossible to picture the conclusion 
of this midnight scene, as a description of either 
our appearance or our conduct would not look 
well in print; suffice it to say, that if we had had 
another period of devotions before again retiring, 
it would have been neither out of place, nor the 
time misspent. 

On Monday morning as we were preparing to 
leave for the south, a prospector from Southern 
Ontario called on us and proposed that he and 
his Indian cook, Billy, should accompany us, to 
which we gave our consent. We were entirely 
unfamiliar with the channel of Rupert Bay, but 
succeeded fairly well in picking out a course, 
although in following the east shore instead of the 
west, where the channel lies, we ran aground on 
a large sandbar near the north point of Middleton 
Island, and as the tide was going out, had consid- 
erable difficulty in finding the way off it. Even- 



78 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

tually a channel was located without crossing 
to the west side. 

About three o'clock the southern end of Middle- 
ton Island was reached, where there is a very- 
attractive place for a camp, which we decided 
to make our headquarters. It is situated at the 
mouth of the Broadback River, rising abruptly 
from the water, and on a rocky knoll, amidst very 
picturesque surroundings. A number of large 
balm-of-Gileads afforded protection while the 
ground was literally carpeted with wild roses, 
then in full bloom. 

The first man to land ejaculated "What- a de- 
lightful site for a summer hotel, " as he clambered 
up the granite slope, and the expression won the 
approbation of the whole party as they gazed on 
the quiet waters of the little bay, dotted with 
islands, at the mouth of the river. 

It did not take us long to set up very comfort- 
able quarters and prepare a meal at the fireplace, 
a natural one formed by a crack in the rock. 

On retiring for the night, we lay down with a 
feeling of the greatest security, now that we were 
safe from the attacks of the midnight marauders, 
which of late had caused us so many sleepless 
nights. But sleep was evidently not to be our 
portion. Hardly had our candle been extin- 
guished, when a heavy wind was heralded by the 
beating of branches against the tent, and the 
roar of thunder and lightning flash warned us of 



A IVEEK IN RUPERT BAY 79 

an approaching storm. Immediately the brands 
from the now deserted camp-fire were hurled 
furiously hither and thither, lighting up the tent 
in a weird manner. 

More frequently came the vivid flash of light- 
ning, nearer came the crash of thunder, and the 
wind increased to such violence that we began 
to realize the danger of being swept off the rocks 
into the water. The boat's welfare was giving 
the greatest anxiety, for it had no protection 
whatever from the storm or the breakers, which 
were now dashing high against the rock. 

This was the boat's first experience in a storm, 
and the reliability of the anchor had not yet been 
proven, but on the other hand, it had been strongly 
condemned by the people of the Posts, as not being 
of sufficient weight. In fact, had we listened to 
the criticisms of both boat and anchor, we would 
never have undertaken the journey at all, or going, 
have had any hope of anything but a watery grave. 
Past experience had taught us not to take the 
remarks of some of these people seriously, the 
more so on account of the fact that what one per- 
son recommended, the next man spoken to would 
in all probability condemn. 

The wind had now increased to hurricane pro- 
portions; the rain was coming down in sheets and 
being driven against the tents so violently that 
w-e expected momentarily to see their collapse 
and the consequent ruin of the contents. 



8o IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

In our concern about the boat, one groped his 
way along the rocks to see if it and the canoe were 
still safe, while the other remained to watch the 
tent. The former returned shortly and reported 
them both safe, but the boat being tossed roughly. 

It was decided to make an effort to reach the 
boat, and bring a line ashore as a precaution should 
the anchor drag. This was done with the help 
of the other members of the party. We succeeded 
in drawing a hawser through the willows to a big 
balm-of-Gilead close to our tent, where we made 
it fast. 

The experience was anything but pleasant in 
the howling storm, clad as we were in our night 
attire. This would make a very mild comparison 
with storms we encountered later on in the season, 
but it served the purpose of preparing us for future 
events of a like nature. 

The following days were spent in investigating 
the surrounding country, which we found to be 
much superior to that near the mouth of the 
Rupert River. This neighbourhood will undoubt- 
edly develop into a good agricultural community 
when the railroad is completed and the country 
opened up for settlement. The soil is a rich clay 
loam covered with a thick layer of leaf-mould. 
A fine tribute to its fertility was the length of the 
grass and timothy on the small open places, 
which exceeded three feet. 

The country is covered with a thick growth of 



A WEEK IN RUPERT BAY 8i 

spruce, balsam, and poplar, the smaller of this 
being adaptable for pulp wood, and the larger, 
of which there is a good proportion, suitable for 
saw-logs and building timber, which would supply 
the local demand for many years to come. 

On the evening of the second day, we were 
again permitted to witness a green-fly invasion, 
similar to that which we had previously observed 
at Rupert House. This time they hung in the 
air in long vertical columns. These columns 
moved about from place to place. One of them, 
lowering a little, enveloped the camp in a cloud, 
and everything was soon literally alive with the 
small insects. It was quite a disagreeable experi- 
ence for we could not keep them out of our eyes, 
ears, and noses, but we were heartily thankful 
that they were not viciously inclined, like the 
mosquitoes, for though they too could sing a 
lively time, they made no attempt to bite. 

The same evening an accident, due to careless- 
ness, occurred to our canoe by which we nearly 
lost it, and which ever after served as a lesson to 
us. Returning from an afternoon trip, one of the 
men was left to secure the canoe, but instead of 
tying it, he merely pulled it up on a rock. Con- 
sequently, when the tide came in, the canoe was 
carried out, and it was only by chance that it 
was seen floating down in the current. Our 
guest was the only man in the party who could 
swim, a fact that would have made the situation 

6 



82 7A^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

serious had he not been present, because of the 
motor boat being anchored out in deep water. He 
saved the situation by swimming out and rescu- 
ing it. 

A month might easily have been spent in in- 
vestigating the surrounding country in sight of 
the camp, which commanded a view for many 
miles in all directions. As a whole, the country 
was beautiful, and our trip was made specially 
enjoyable by reason of the fine weather which 
prevailed, although at times it was uncomfortably 
warm. The time for our departure northward 
was fixed for July the eleventh, so we reluctantly 
began to break camp about noon of that day. 

The temptation was strong to linger around the 
beautiful spot with its profusion of wild roses, so 
that it was late in the afternoon before we finally 
raised anchor and started up the Bay against a 
strong head wind. We now had a fair idea of the 
location of the channel, and were able to success- 
fully avoid the sandbar, upon which we had 
trouble on the way southward. The tide being 
with us, we reached the river mouth in about two 
hours. Here began our troubles, for the channel 
into the river is the worst we entered while in 
the Bay. 

On our return to Rupert House, we took the 
precaution to set up our tent as far as possible 
away from the Indian camps, and to forestall the 
dogs in every manner we could think of. 



A WEEK IN RUPERT BAY 83 

One of the first items of news we heard on 
landing was of the shooting of three Husky dogs, 
by members of the Government survey party, 
who caught them in the act of pillaging their tent. 
The deed caused considerable agitation among the 
residents of the place. 



CHAPTER VIII 




Rupert House to E^astmain River 

E were delayed at Rupert House for 
two days owing to bad weather. 
On the evening of the second day 
it blew a gale, and a good part of 
the night was spent in holding down 
our tent. The wind completely subsided the 
next day about eleven o'clock, and we decided 
at once to leave for the Eastmain River. 

The boat was loaded and made ready for the 
start, and we said good-bye to Rupert House 
and the South, at noon, on July the fourteenth. 
Our departure was marked by the usual congre- 
gating of the Indians, such as occurred at Moose 
Factory. However, this time they crowded 
around the boat, which had been run ashore for 
loading, making it very difficult to get our dunnage 
aboard. 

The motor boat was a never-ending source of 
curiosity to the Indians everywhere we went, 
and at the first chug of the engine, all work would 
cease in the vicinity and a general rush would be 
made for the river bank. 

The day was a perfect one, clear, calm, and 

84 



RUPERT HOUSE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 85 

siinny; in all, a beautiful beginning for our cruise. 
The tide was high, so we had no difficulty in 
getting out of the river. We followed the buoys 
of the Hudson's Bay Company until we were 
about four miles from the Post, and two miles 
from the east coast of Rupert Bay. Here we 
left the ship's course and steered directly for 
Stag Rock. 

All along the shore of Rupert Bay the water is 
very shallow and it was necessary to take a course 
two to five miles from land to ensure safe running. 
As an additional precaution, one of the party stood 
on the small fore deck, taking frequent soundings, 
a position that made the duty dangerous during 
rough weather. 

To any person unfamiliar with the waters of 
Rupert Bay, navigation is risky, especially for 
small craft, as the shallowness of the water causes 
high seas in time of storm, and there are few, if 
any, places that afford shelter and a safe anchorage. 

We reached Stag Rock early in the afternoon, 
and went ashore for a light lunch, afterward 
climbing to the highest point to take observations 
and decide on a course. This small island is a 
landmark, very prominent in Rupert Bay. It 
is practically a pillar of red granite, rising about 
seventy feet above the sea and capped with a 
crown of evergreens. From its highest point a 
magnificent view of the surroundings was obtained. 

To the west lay the low shore of the Cabbage 



86 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Willows Bay, the favourite goose-hunting grounds 
of the Rupert Indians; to the east, the islands 
which mark the mouth of the Pontax River; to 
the south, the long sweep of Rupert Bay, with 
its shore line melting into the horizon; while to 
the north lay Stag Island with its long, low points, 
stretching far into the water, and Sherrick Mount, 
the bold old sentinel, that stands guard over the 
entrance to Rupert Bay, and which for ages has 
been the Indian's landmark, around which he 
has wound his threads of legend, ever unique and 
interesting, but too lengthy to here relate. 

Swinging ourselves down the almost vertical 
cliff, from the delightful shady nook on top, we 
came to the little ledge below, where we had 
partaken of the midday meal, and off which our 
boat was moored. With reluctance we took our 
departure from this inviting spot, and followed a 
course toward Sherrick Mount, where we arrived 
shortly before sundown. This brought us to 
Boatswain Bay, the next small bay along the coast, 
a somewhat dangerous one to cross on account 
of frequent squalls. 

The sea was calm, although a slight head wind 
was blowing, and we determined to make the 
run across to McFarlane Island, the first of a 
group of islands off the opposite point and about 
six miles distant. Everything went well until 
we were half-way across, when the wind began to 
come up, and as we did not know whether the 



RUPERT HOUSE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 87 

island we were approaching would afford us 
anchorage, we naturally began to feel anxious, 
due more to our inexperience than to the violence 
of the storm. We were much relieved on reaching 
the island to find protection on the south-east side. 

It was almost dark when the shore was reached, 
and we were feeling the need of something to 
supply the inner man. Supper was prepared 
and eaten before the tents were set up, both being 
done by the light of the camp-fire. It was on an 
occasion of this kind that we missed the services 
of our Indians, who were so expert in setting up 
camp, quick in finding wood and water and making 
fire, and who would have relieved us entirely of 
the preparation of the food. 

The camp ground selected was on a beautiftil 
grassy slope, beside the bush, and partly under 
the shade of a large spruce. Near at hand lay a 
large cedar log, slain monarch from some distant 
forest, cast up by the tide, an example of what the 
Creator provides, on the rocky, treeless islands 
of the North, for the traveller. What a joy it is 
at the close of a day, perhaps, of anxious sailing, 
to take refuge on one of these islands, apparently, 
barren of everjrthing, and find an abundance of 
wood and water! None but a traveller of these 
northern waters can appreciate the value of such 
blessings. 

Appropriating this fine, dry cedar wood, we 
soon had a roaring fire, which might have been 



88 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

seen for miles around. Not having the delay 
of hunting for water, as there was a supply in the 
boat, we were enabled to get the camp set up com- 
fortably and all work completed by nine o'clock, 
when we turned in, hoping to get a good night's 
sleep. 

In the meantime, the sky had become overcast. 
A heavy storm came up from the north-east, our 
least protected quarter, soon after we retired. 
This was accompanied by little rain, but a heavy 
sea was raised. Considerable anxiety prevailed 
in regard to the safety of the boat, as the island 
afforded it protection no longer. The more so, 
as one had looked out from the tent, and being 
unable to see it, made the statement that he 
feared she had drifted. Hoping that it was only 
hidden by the darkness and the breaking surf, 
he determined to make a dash for the beach that 
he might verify his conjecture. 

Not waiting to change to his day attire, he 
rushed off toward the water, over an old rose- 
grown path, and as paths of roses have ever been 
bestrewn with thorns, so it was in this case, and 
intermingled with them were a few well-developed 
thistles, traces of which he carried in his feet for 
many succeeding days. 

Reaching the beach he was much relieved to find 
that he could at intervals detect the white canvas 
cover of the boat, which, due to the shifting of the 
wind, had swung on her anchor. This had carried 



RUPERT HOUSE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 89 

her a hundred feet farther from the beach, but 
the sturdy little anchor had not budged an inch. 

The storm continued all night, and at frequent 
intervals trips were made to the beach to satisfy 
ourselves that the anchor was doing its duty. The 
following day was stormy, so we were unable to 
proceed on our journey. Accordingly, we spent 
the day in making ourselves comfortable in camp 
and in exploring the island. It was here that we 
saw the first flocks of wild ducks. They were 
feeding on the grasses beside a small pond on the 
lower end of the island, but were so shy that we 
could not get within gunshot of them. The 
island was literally covered with a mat of beautiful 
flowers — wild sweet peas, roses, violets, straw- 
berry blossoms, and many others, the names of 
which we did not know. 

It was now eight days since the other boats 
had left us, and in that time, several bad winds 
had occurred. We were naturally beginning to 
feel anxious, especially about the York boat, as 
we supposed she had long since left the Eastmain 
River, and might be picking out her way along 
the shoaly coast, between there and Fort George. 
However, our anxiety was considerably less than 
it would have been had that party, like ourselves, 
been without a guide. We derived much consola- 
tion from the fact that their guide was considered 
to be one of the most competent on the east coast. 

From the island, the north shore of Boatswain 



90 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Bay could be seen. It appeared to be somewhat 
higher than that of Rupert Bay, and the timber 
longer, and consequently cleaner. There were 
also other islands lying to the north and west, 
some of which were quite large and appeared to 
be thickly timbered. These islands are all un- 
named. 

The wind continued to blow until the early morn- 
ing of the second day, and there seemed little 
sign of it abating then. At seven o'clock, a change 
for the better took place, and after arousing Mac, 
the engineman, who had not appeared for break- 
fast, we at once began to break camp. 

We had everything carried to the beach by 
nine o'clock, but as Mac had only begun to show 
signs of life, we had to wait until he got his tent 
and dunnage ready. By this time the tide had 
gone out, and upon taking the dunnage out to 
the boat, we found to our dismay that she was 
aground, causing us a further delay of about two 
hours. 

We raised anchor at half past eleven and passed 
along the east shore of McFarlane Island, and 
then steered for Neck-of-Land Point. We at- 
tempted to pass between the point and an island 
that lay off it about a quarter of a mile, but soon 
got badly mixed up in a maze of shoals which 
seemed to surround the island as well as to con- 
nect it to the mainland and stretch southward to 
McFarlane Island. We found it impossible to 



RUPERT HOUSE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 91 

make our way through and in retracing our course 
the propeller struck rock several times, but was 
only bent slightly. Finally we managed by 
constant sounding to find a channel leading past 
the island. 

By this time the day was clear and warm, and 
the sea quite calm, which encouraged us to leave 
the mainland of the next shallow bay well to 
our right. We had not gone far when the wind 
began to rise again, a fact that impressed our 
minds with the uncertainty of the weather in 
James Bay. We, timid, and still inexperienced 
seamen, thought best to get nearer shore, and 
consequently shifted our course, but soon found 
ourselves in shallow water. A landing could not 
be effected anywhere, so we had to put out again 
into deep water, despite the roughness of the sea, 
as we then termed it. 

By the time we were half-way across the bay 
to the islands at the mouth of Jack River, much 
to our surprise and gratification the wind again 
went down and the water became smooth. How- 
ever to the west a great, heavy, black cloud hung 
over Charlton Island, the profile of which was 
dimly outlined against the horizon. This we had 
watched with suspicion for some time, and it now 
appeared to be coming closer, so we feared more 
trouble was brewing. 

The islands, with the protection they would 
afford, were still five miles off, and we were puzzled 



92 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

to know if we would reach them before the storm 
reached us. This proved to be one of many- 
instances when miraculous intervention seemed 
to favour us, although of trifling significance com- 
pared with many which followed, as the cloud 
we so much dreaded passed to our left, and we 
sailed on to the islands in calm and sunshine, 
where we arrived about two o'clock. 

We landed on one of the small islands, a smooth, 
circular hump of gneiss, without even a covering 
of moss to rid it of its barrenness or lend an ap- 
pearance of hospitality to the passing traveller. 
Lunch was hastily partaken of, and then the 
propeller blades, which had been bent on the 
rocks earlier in the day, causing a marked decrease 
in our speed, were straightened. 

The propeller was fortunately of the Roper 
reversible type, made of soft, tough bronze, very 
easily bent and straightened without danger of 
breaking. It was, in addition, protected by a 
pin, inserted through the periphery of two plates, 
on the abutting ends of a break in the driving 
shaft, which fitted together. In this manner the 
whole power from the engine was transmitted to 
the propeller through the small brass pin. In 
case of the propeller striking a heavy resistance, 
such as a rock, the pin would be immediately 
sheared, with little or no damage to the blade. 

The boat once more in order, we took a course 
toward Loon Point, passing several other points, 



RUPERT HOUSE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 93 

formed by deep, narrow bays extending into the 
mainland. Soon after starting, a fair breeze 
sprang up and we raised our foresail. The 
breeze freshened to a wind and we were borne 
along at a high rate of speed. 

When coming opposite to Partridge Point, 
we saw the tops of two hills, blue in the distance. 
These we recognized to be the Monkey Hills, 
which form a very prominent landmark for the 
mouth of the Eastmain River. A course was 
taken directly across the long bay towards them. 

In the meantime the freshened wind had raised 
a large swell, which gradually broke into white- 
capped waves. When we drew near to the shore 
of the bay, opposite the hills, we coasted along 
until the point beyond was reached. Here we 
made an effort to run between an island and the 
mainland, but encountered a sandbar which con- 
nected them at low tide and accordingly had to 
turn sharply around and go outside of the island. 

This was the most exciting run of the trip so 
far, as the'_^boat was running parallel to the waves, 
now deep in the trough, then lifted high on the 
crest. Several times it seemed as if we would be 
completely enveloped by the tumultuous waters 
around us, but thanks to the canvas boat cover 
and our manipulation of the wheel, we rounded 
the point safely and without taking water. We 
then saw what we recognized to be Governor 
Island, and before many minutes were alongside 



94 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

of it and chugging into the mouth of the Eastmain 
River. 

We were agreeably surprised to see several 
sailboats anchored in the harbour at Governor 
Island and a group of people watching our ap- 
proach and waving us a welcome. We were much 
pleased with our successful entry into the river, 
as it is not only hard to find, but difficult to ap- 
proach, the water being shallow and the channels 
narrow. Of the latter there are three, two south 
of Governor Island and one north of it. Daylight 
and high tide^^are required for the safe entrance 
of boats that draw four feet of water. 

Taking the centre channel, the only one familiar 
to us, we reached the Post at half past six o'clock 
in the evening, thus completing the run of seventy- 
five miles from Rupert House, and having made 
half of the distance since eleven o'clock in the 
morning. 

On our arrival we set up camp, and as was our 
usual custom, paid our respects to the officers 
of both companies. Since our last visit, the Revil- 
lon Post had been established and was under the 
management of Mr. William McLeod, who is a 
good example of the progressive young men who 
are becoming the leaders in this district. Mr. 
McLeod was born, raised, and educated in Moose 
Factory. 

The Hudson's Bay Company's Post was in 
charge of Mr. C. J. R. Jobson, who is a most 



■TS'a</ 



78' 



C/\RTH(iUf\HC &f ,_^ . . 




T 



GFtEY 

ISLANDS 






ISLAND ^ , 

COMB HILLS "QC 
ISLANDS 



GOOSE ISLAND 
BLACK ISLAND 



55- 



LOON POINT 



P/MNT H/LLS^. 
ISLANDS 1^ 



SOLOMON . I 

TEMPLE /5'0S.« °^**'' ^ 



O 



3ULL. ISLAND 
FLOCK 



STRUTTON 




52 



79* 



-iS'ao' 



78* 



RUPERT HOUSE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 95 

admirable and interesting person, retiring, but 
ever ready to show kindness in a most unassuming 
manner. Mr. Jobson is a native of the Orkney 
Islands and came to the Hudson Bay country in 
1865, where he has remained in the employ of 
the Hudson's Bay Company ever since, filling 
the office of manager at a number of the inland 
Posts, all the way from Lake St. John to the 
Eastmain River. 

We also met the party of naturalists whom we 
had met at Rupert House. They had succeeded 
in engaging a guide to take them as far as Charlton 
Island, where another was procured to bring them 
to this Post. They were collecting specimens 
in the vicinity. 

The incidents of the former visit, when the 
Hudson's Bay Company's Post was in charge of 
the late Mr. Turner, were often a source of con- 
versation. It was there, on our return from a 
one hundred and twenty-five mile trip up the 
river, we ate the first meal that had been partaken 
of in two days. The many events of the trip 
came vividly to mind and had to be related to 
those who were not present on that occasion. 

The most interesting feature of that trip was 
the fact that the distance covered in six days going 
up the river was done in a little over two coming 
down. It was an experience that is not likely to 
be forgotten by the participants. 

One of the most amusing incidents of that whole 



96 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

trip was the anxiety of an old Welsh miner, who 
happened to be one of the party, over the sup- 
posed existence of cannibals on the river, who 
were likely to be encountered. This information 
had been communicated to him by a friend (?) 
in a most confidential manner, previous to starting. 

The first night out, when seated around the 
camp-fire, the matter was discussed openly. By 
a unanimous vote it was decided that, when the 
cannibals were met, an agreement should be made 
whereby one of the party should be handed over, 
in return for a promise that the others would 
have their freedom. To ascertain who should 
be the unfortunate one it was deemed advisable 
to draw lots. 

It can readily be imagined the anxiety pictured 
in the old man's face as he sat in the glow of the 
camp-fire, when by a clever manipulation of the 
straws Jt of course fell to his lot to be the "Jonah." 
It seemed as if on each succeeding day of the 
journey, his face wore a more haggard look, as, 
no doubt, he supposed it would be the fateful day, 
and when the time had arrived for the return 
journey, and he was still uncooked and uneaten, 
he would have made us travel day and night to 
get back into safe quarters. Poor old Jones 
would not have made a good meal for any canni- 
bal at his best, much less when those eight days 
of anxious waiting were over. 

Here, as at the other Posts, we were doomed to 



RUPERT HOUSE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 97 

suffer in conflict with the dogs. We had been 
looking forward with pleasure to our visit to the 
Eastmain River, but dreaded the encounter with 
the dogs which we knew to be inevitable. 

Practically every day was marked by some of 
their depredations. The worst experience of the 
kind occurred on the morning after our arrival. 
We were housed in a large silk tent, twelve by 
fourteen feet, which we reserved for special occa- 
sions, usually for our stay at the various Posts, 
where we were likely to entertain. 

We were away from the tent, attending to some 
business at one of the stores, leaving Mac to 
mind it, as it contained several kettles of freshly 
cooked food, delicacies in the eyes of the hungry 
Husky dogs. Great was our indignation when 
drawing near to the tent on our return, to see dog 
after dog troop through a large rent in the front 
of it, evidently having heard the approaching 
footsteps, and showing unmistakable evidences 
of guilt in the carriage of their ears and tails. 

We were much surprised to find a two-gallon 
kettle, that we had left in the tent full of boiled 
beans, sitting outside with but a few beans in 
the bottom. It looked very much as if someone 
had carried it out, but Mac, who did not remain 
to watch the tent and returned after the damage 
was done, declared that when he first arrived the 
dogs were inside, and in order to escape, sprang 
through the end of the tent. One, he said, took 



98 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

the handle of the bean kettle in his mouth and 
plunged through the rent with it, determined not 
to surrender his booty. 

We were quite suspicious of this yarn until a 
similar incident occurred under our own observa- 
tion. It was on our return visit that a small dog 
was caught running away with a large basin of 
stew by grasping the side of it in his mouth, a 
provoking yet most amusing spectacle, proving 
that the Eastmain dogs are adepts at tricks of 
this kind. 

We were the recipients of a number of presents 
of garden products from Mr. Jobson, including, 
among others, potatoes and rhubarb, also a pail 
of very choice fresh butter. The potatoes were 
the previous season's and were firm and white, 
the former probably due to being kept in a root 
house. They furnished us an occasional much 
appreciated meal until the end of August, and 
were a constant reminder of the thoughtfulness 
of the giver. As most of our butter was lost on 
the river and none was obtainable at the Post, 
that of Mr. Jobson was a great treat. 

Only those who have been deprived of the 
staple articles of food for months, as is often the 
case in an isolated country like that of the Hudson 
Bay, can understand how these simple gifts can 
be worthy of so much appreciation. 

The rhubarb was growing in great profusion in 
the Post garden and as we had carte blanche we 



RUPERT HOUSE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 99 

paid daily visits thither, and one might have 
thought, from the armfuls carried away, that 
there was a dozen in the party instead of three. 
We knew that it was a very healthful article of 
food during the extremely hot weather that 
prevailed. 

The Factor had several small fields of potatoes 
that we thought were looking remarkably well, 
but he assured us that they were quite backward 
in comparison with average years. 

The soil of the Post clearing is a light, sandy 
loam, with a subsoil of blue clay. It is not very 
deep, but showed very good results considering 
the fact that agriculture receives so little atten- 
tion from the trading companies. The area of 
cleared land around the Hudson's Bay Company's 
Post is very small, probably not exceeding twenty 
acres. No steps have been taken to drain the 
lowland which would be equally as good as the 
higher, now under cultivation, were a little ditch- 
ing done. 

This was the only place on the east coast, to 
our knowledge, where grain had been raised. 
Some of the officers in charge have sown test 
fields of grain with very satisfactory results, but 
in no practical quantity, owing chiefly to the 
lack of some means of threshing. That which 
has been raised was fed to the cattle as fodder. 

The timber in the vicinity of the mouth of the 
river is principally small tamarack of little value. 



100 7A^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

From observations taken on our former trip we 
know that it improves as one leaves the coast, 
but in some locaHties much fine timber has been 
destroyed by forest fires, and is replaced by a 
second growth, most of which is poplar. It was 
also observed that the quality of the land improved 
as the river was ascended, the soil being a deep, 
rich, sandy loam. 



CHAPTER IX 



Eastxnain River to Fort George 




HE time allotted for our stay at the 
Eastmain River Post elapsed on 
July the twentieth, so we planned 
on an early start for Fort George, 
that morning. Accordingly, we were 
up by half past four o'clock and preparing for 
the start, but, as the fuel tanks on the boat had 
to be replenished and we had to pay farewell 
visits to each of the Posts, the anchor was not 
raised until half past nine. 

While calling at the Hudson's Bay Company's 
Post, we met Mrs. Griffith, wife of the Factor at 
Fort George, who had arrived by canoe about 
midnight with her young baby, nurse, and four 
Indians, en route to Rupert House to visit her 
father, the Factor, and her mother. They had 
covered the distance from Fort George to the 
Eastmain Post, about one hundred and twenty- 
five miles, in three days. 

When all the dunnage was packed and ready, 
a number of Indians gathered around us, as they 
did at Rupert House, but unlike the latter, they 
assisted us in carrying the dunnage to the boat. 

lOI 



I02 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

It was a warm day and the sky was overcast, 
but as the wind was offshore we felt Httle concern. 

Our passage down the river was uneventful, 
save that we took the channel north of Governor 
Island, and following the instructions given us at 
the Posts, had no difficulty in reaching the bay. 
When outside we found that the wind had fresh- 
ened and had shifted to the north-west, the direc- 
tion we must take, and hence dead against us. 
This wind had made the sea quite choppy, and 
being inexperienced and without either a guide 
or a knowledge of this part of the coast, we were 
quite undecided what to do. 

Eighteen miles to the north-west stood the blue 
humps of Cape Hope Islands, a prominent land- 
mark for perhaps fifty miles of the coast and second 
only in prominence to Sherrick Mount. They 
lie midway across a long, deep bay extending 
into the mainland. The shores of this bay are 
low and the water shallow for several miles out, 
necessitating a course from the mouth of the 
Eastmain River out toward the islands. 

In the course lay High Rock and its companion 
islands, twelve miles distant, while between lay 
several shoaly islands and reefs which were being 
lashed by breakers. Behind us lay the snug 
harbour of Governor Island, wherein the Company 
boats anchor and await fair wind and weather 
and where a good camping place was available. 

It was a great temptation for us to return and 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 103 

wait for a change of weather, but the knowledge 
that the season was rapidly passing proved too 
strong an argument against doing so. We made 
a safe run until we drew near to High Rock Island. 
By that time the sea was running high and an 
occasional wave was breaking over our bow. 
Accordingly we decided to anchor in the lee of 
the island and await calmer weather. 

The island is well named, being a high, rounded 
hump of reddish granite, absolutely devoid of 
vegetation, except a few patches of moss. We 
lunched on a ledge of rock at the south side of 
the island, protected from the chilling winds, 
and where a crevice in the rock formed a fine 
natural fire-place. It was a cozy nook, warmed 
by the fire and the rays of the noonday sun, 
which then shone from a beautiful, clear sky. 

After lunch we went up to the top of the island 
and found the wind stronger and the sea rougher 
than before. We accordingly decided to camp, 
and pitched our tent on a beautiful, soft bed of 
moss, in the lee of a large rock. Returning to 
the "cookery" on the ledge we offered a prayer 
of thanksgiving for the absence of dogs, and once 
more prepared a supply of food, sufficient for 
several days. 

On occasions like this, we always took advan- 
tage of our stay to do the cooking for future days, 
or the washing and mending of clothes. It 
seemed as if we never could accomplish all that 



104 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

was necessary of such work, no matter how long 
the delay. 

The island seemed a barren place for a camp, 
on our first landing, but the finding of an abun- 
dance of good wood and water and a soft protected 
spot for a bed caused us to change our opinion. 

The wind went down with the sun and the night 
was clear and starlit. This was now the twenty- 
first day of July, one month past the longest day, 
and it was an interesting fact that owing to our 
travelling northward, the length of day was still 
about the same as it was at Conjuring House on 
the Missinaibi River, where we spent the twenty- 
first of June. This phenomenon was noticed 
until we were far into the North. 

With the prospect of a good day of sailing, we 
arose early next morning and while one prepared 
the breakfast, the other did the packing. Al- 
though ready to leave by seven o'clock, we were 
baffled in our expectations of an early start by 
Mac, who had slept on the boat and could not be 
aroused. We finally succeeded and raised anchor 
at half past eight o'clock and crossed to the Cape 
Hope Islands, coasting along the east shore of the 
larger island. 

The island is of irregular shape, about six miles 
long and three miles at its widest. It is a high, 
rounded mountain of diabase, in most places 
thickly wooded. It has several harbours, owing 
to the irregularity of its coast line, and is bordered 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 103 

by deep water. These harbours are used by the 
companies' sailboats, en route to Charlton and 
Strutton Islands, and its wooded slopes give excel- 
lent protection to the dog teams during the winter 
storms. On the north-east point of the larger 
island there are what at first appeared to be 
some large quartz veins, but investigation has 
proven them to be feldspathic dykes. 

From here we kept a course from point to point, 
crossing the mouths of the bays and avoiding 
any detours, reaching the Shepherd Islands about 
noon. We went ashore at an old camping place 
on one of these islands, where we found an abun- 
dance of wood and water, the former already cut, 
and had our lunch. 

Looking northward from the summit of the 
island, we were delighted to see the first sign of 
the next prominent landmark, along the coast, 
Paint Hills Islands. For some time after start- 
ing again we were unable to see these islands, as 
they were still below the horizon, consequently 
we took a course parallel to the shore. When the 
group of islands came plainly into view, stretching 
for several miles out to sea like a great arm of the 
mainland, we were undecided whether to take a 
course inside or outside of them, the latter being 
a roundabout of several miles. 

It was our desire to revisit the deposit of iron 
pyrites, which is mentioned in the report of the 
Geological Survey, but could not recollect whether 



io6 7A^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

it was on the hill of the mainland, or on that of 
Walrus Island, the outside one of the group, both 
hills being identical in shape. We decided on the 
latter and took a course for it. 

The weather was fine all day, consequently we 
did not hesitate to go well out to sea. We reached 
Walrus Island about five o'clock and anchored off 
it, going ashore to look for the mineral. The 
island proved to be bare of trees, and remember- 
ing that the deposit was close to a spruce bush, 
it was evident that the wrong hill had been chosen. 

We climbed to the top of the conical hill, which 
rises from the centre of the island. It is formed 
entirely of dark trap, bearing crystals of iron 
pyrites. From this elevation we had an excellent 
view of the coast in all directions. On landing 
the hilltop seemed quite near, but before reaching 
it, we had completely changed our minds, as the 
ascent required nearly an hour of hard climbing. 

The day was fast drawing to a close when the 
boat was again reached, so we only rounded the 
island and anchored in a snug little harbour 
formed by a group of small, rocky islands. There 
was no vegetation on them, but we found a soft ( ?) 
gravel beach and made the camp thereon. A 
large quantity of drift cedar made a fine fire pos- 
sible, and having had a most enjoyable and 
successful day of travelling, and possessing large 
appetites, we decided to mark the occasion by a 
special feast. 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 107 

The meal might not have been an attractive one 
at the Waldorf-Astoria, as the menu only consisted 
of boiled potatoes, macaroni and tomatoes, cold 
Australian boiled beef, flapjacks, and tea, but to 
us, a crew of hungry voyageurs, it was a banquet 
to which we would have had no hesitancy in 
inviting the King. 

The following morning found us up at half past 
four and ready to start at seven o'clock. How- 
ever, we were delayed some time examining some 
quartz veins which proved to be but slightly 
mineralized. 

This proved to be one of the most trying days 
we had yet experienced; the wind was from the 
sea and the water quite rough, and naturally 
under these conditions we endeavoured to stay 
as close to the islands as possible, where shelter 
might be had, were it required. 

We soon found that this course caused greater 
anxiety than the waves of the open sea had done, 
as everywhere for miles we encountered shoals. 
Some, submerged or partly so, gave warning of 
their presence by the splashing of the breakers 
upon them, while others, more deeply submerged, 
gave no warning whatever until we were close 
enough to see them beneath us. It was decidedly 
hard on the nerves to find ourselves passing swiftly 
over great boulders, which, however, owing to the 
clearness of the water, looked much nearer than 
they really were. 



io8 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

We succeeded in reaching Comb Hills Islands 
in time to lunch on the outer one of the group. 
A conspicuous feature of this island is a dark trap 
dyke, about six feet wide, which cuts completely 
across it in a north and south direction. 

Immediately off the island lies White Bear 
Island, a small hump of white weathered gneiss, 
which, owing to its peculiar form, strongly re- ^ 

sembles a reclining bear with outstretched paws 1 

and uplifted head. 

Fairly good protection from the south and west 
may be had at several small harbours on the north 
side of these islands. 

The experiences of the morning were repeated 
throughout the afternoon, and the currents 
between the islands, rushing over the shoals, re- 
minded us very much of the rapids of the Missi- 
naibi River. 

The conditions for sailing improved as the af- 
ternoon advanced, the wind going down, while 
the currents weakened and the water deepened 
as it neared the flood of the tide. Toward evening 
the atmosphere became hazy, and it was impos- 
sible to check our position by the map. We felt 
sure that Dead Duck Bay had been passed and 
that Aquatuk Bay had been entered about three 
o'clock in the afternoon. If this were so, it was 
evident Fort George could be reached by six 
o'clock that evening. 

After running through a maze of islands for 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 109 

some time, one was finally approached which 
resembled Loon Island, the landmark for w^hich 
we had been eagerly looking, as it lies directly 
off the mouth of Big River. It was on Loon 
Island that the Revillon Freres' wholesale house 
was originally located, and on its highest point 
a beacon for the guidance of ships was erected. 
We looked for the beacon on the top of several 
islands in the distance, as well as on this one, and 
as it was nowhere to be seen, concluded that it 
must have been removed when the Company 
went to Strutton, and that it was Loon Island 
we were then approaching. What appeared to 
be the mouth of the river on the mainland, opposite 
the island, helped to confirm our opinion. 

It was somewhat late in the evening, so to avoid 
the depredations of the Husky dogs at the Post, 
we decided to camp on the island. After landing, 
a close inspection of the island was made, and it 
was discovered to our disappointment that, how- 
ever near we might be to it, we were not on Loon 
Island. It was somewhat comforting to find a 
cairn, set up on the highest point, which was an 
indication that it was a regular camping place in 
the course of the companies' sailing boats. 

It is a custom of the native sailors of the country, 
both Indian and Eskimo, to mark, either with a 
cairn or a pole, such islands as they have found 
along the coast to offer good protection, wood, and 
water. The island proved to be a good camping 



no 7A^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

place, and from its highest point we watched the 
sun sink slowly into the western sea, bathing it 
with a radiance indescribable. 

The recollection of a night spent outside of 
East main River on the last trip, when a large camp- 
fire had attracted the attention of the people at 
the Post, and they, supposing it was someone in 
distress, had sent out a party of Indians to us at 
daybreak the next morning, caused us to extinguish 
the camp-fire as the darkness drew on, that there- 
might not be a similar occurrence. We intended 
to slip quietly into Fort George, the next morning, 
without giving any warning of our approach. 

It was with feelings of pleasure we retired that 
night, knowing that it could only be a short dis- 
tance to Fort^George, one of the most picturesque 
and interesting places on the Bay, and where we 
would meet some of the friends of five years ago. 

The next morning found us up bright and early 
and taking advantage of every means at our dis- 
posal to make ourselves presentable, brushing 
our hair and greasing our boots as if it were Sun- 
day at home (?). These preparations delayed us 
somewhat, but the novelty of being ''dressed up'* 
amply repaid us. 

The morning was a delightful one, bright and 
warm. Leaving the island, we steered straight 
for the mainland, but the nearer we got, the more 
apparent it becam.e that we were not approaching 
the mouth of Big River, on which Fort George 



EAST MAIN RIVER TO FORT GEORGE iii 

is situated, although, at a distance, it resembled 
it to a remarkable degree. We turned our boat 
northward again and, after going a short distance, 
discovered that the shore was the north side of 
Aquatuk Bay. Clearing this by a westward 
course we soon got into another maze of islands, 
seemingly interconnected by shoals. Much time 
was wasted in retracing our course, when it was 
found impossible to effect a passage between 
certain of the islands. It would have been risky 
to have taken a course in the open sea, as a heavy 
bank of fog was hanging over it to the west, 
which with the rising of the wind might have 
blown in on us any minute, so we decided to take 
a chance among the islands. 

About eleven o'clock we anchored off one of the 
larger islands, and, landing, proceeded to the 
highest point to look for the mainland. While 
ashore we came to the conclusion that it would be 
at least a couple of hours before our destination 
was reached, and decided to have lunch. Both 
observations and lunch were unsatisfactory, for, 
unable to see the mainland, we were still mystified 
as to our location, and as there was not a drop of 
fresh water to be found anywhere, had to make 
the best of a dry meal. 

From this island, we again steered for the main- 
land, but after running for half an hour sighted a 
white patch on an island ahead, which we thought 
might be a tent. This was made the objective 



112 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

point, but owing to the haze, it was difficult to 
keep it in sight. In fact it was lost to view a 
couple of times, and we feared a mirage had misled 
us, as had often been the case before. 

Drawing nearer, we could distinguish figures 
moving about, and eventually a stovepipe, pro- 
truding from a tent, was discovered by means of 
our glasses. By careful manoeuvring the island 
was approached, being shoaly on that side. On 
landing there were none of the inmates of the 
tent to be seen, evidently having been frightened 
by the approach of the ''fire boat," as the Indians 
termed it. 

As we came up to the tent, a short, heavy-set, 
bearded, swarthy man emerged from it followed 
by other members of his family. The usual hand- 
shaking performance began, although the greet- 
ings exchanged were hardly intelligible to either 
party. We pointed to what appeared to be the 
mouth of Big River, and said "Fort George?'* 
The man smiled and nodded assent and en- 
deavoured by gestures to show us the location of 
the channel by which to enter the river. 

As is customary in that country, these Indians 
offered us a present, some dried fish, which we 
declined with thanks and departed. 

The channel, we knew by former experience, 
is deep, but changes its position from year to 
year, owing to the shifting of the sandbar at the 
river's mouth. Consequently, special precau- 



I 



EAST MAIN RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 113 

tions were taken by placing a man at the bow of 
the boat with a sounding pole, and thus the entrance 
into the river was made successfully. 

Once in the river the going was easy, as the 
channel is deep and wide and lies wholly along 
the north bank for a distance of three miles, until 
nearly opposite the Post of the Hudson's Bay 
Company. The Post is located on the north side 
of an island, which is about six miles long and 
divides the river at its mouth. From here the 
channel swings directly across the river and follows 
the bank until the Post is reached. 

Shortly after entering the river the chug of the 
motor boat apparently began to attract attention, 
and soon many forms could be seen hurrying 
along the pier, so that by the time we were oppo- 
site the Post it was crowded with dusky men in 
their blue capot coats, and women in their gaudy 
print dresses and shawls. 

When we drew up alongside the pier we were 
about as much interested in the crowd thereon as 
they were in us, and our first impulse was to secure 
a photograph of this unique assembly. x\s we 
stepped on to the landing, the crowd at the top 
parted and Air. Griffith, the Factor, passed through 
and down to meet us. A moment or two later 
came the Rev. Mr. Walton, whose acquaintance 
we had made on our last trip, and who, with the 
lapse of five years of northern missionary life, 
looked scarcely a day older. 



114 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

The usual salutations being exchanged, our 
first question was regarding the York boat and 
its party. We were pleased to find that although 
their guide from Rupert House had deserted them, 
they had been able to secure the services of Husky 
Bill, an Eskimo who trades at Fort George, and 
whose reputation as a sailor and guide is known 
all over the Bay. 

It was now the twenty-fourth of July, and as 
Mr. Strong and his party had left on the eighteenth 
we satisfied ourselves with the belief that they 
were either at Clark Island or else very close to it. 



CHAPTEF X 
Fort George 

^^^^^FTER a short conversation with 
«r ^^^ our friends, we were invited to 
y^^kmm set up our camp adjacent to the 
g<^#gB Post buildings and to dine with 

^^ "''^ Mr. Griffith that evening at the 

Factory. 

As soon as we could get the camp in order and 
don our town clothes, we repaired to the Factory 
to partake of a sumptuous repast in real civilized 
fashion, the first for nearly a month. What a 
pleasant experience it was to sit on a chair and 
eat appetizing food from china dishes, with silver 
cutlery, on a real table covered with snow-white 
linen. 

As before mentioned, Mrs. Griffith had gone 
to Rupert House, but although her husband 
missed the company of his wife and little daughter, 
he did not fare so badly, having a number of 
servants to attend to his needs. He was particu- 
larly fortunate in having a good Indian cook, 
who had been practising the art under the direction 
of Mrs. Griffith. 

On entering the house, we were strongly re- 
us 



Ii6 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

minded of our former visit. Mr. Gillies was the 
Factor at that time, and during the intervening 
five years we had never thought of Fort George 
without having recollections of him and his fine 
vegetable garden. It had been a great surprise 
to find so large a collection of vegetables in such 
a well kept garden. He was by all odds the 
First Prize gardener of the Hudson Bay country 
at that time, and we are told that he still maintains 
his former reputation. 

We would have asked the Factor concerning the 
garden, but on second consideration, decided to 
wait and see for ourselves. Mr. Griffith was a 
young Englishman and not so likely to be advanced 
in the art of the spade and the hoe and our pro- 
gnostications proved correct. That fine garden 
of 1907 had vanished with the season, for when 
Mr. Gillies was transferred to Albany Post, the 
following year, the garden was entirely neglected. 

Later in the evening, we accepted an invitation 
to visit Mr. and Mrs. Walton at the Mission 
house. The Mission is allotted a block of land 
adjoining the Post to the east, on which there is 
built the church, the Mission house, a servants' 
house, and a barn. 

The Mission house is a fine roomy structure, 
built of logs, well clapboarded and painted, two 
and a half stories high, and with a sheet metal 
roof, which looks strangely modern for the place. 
The interior of the house is most homelike. The 




The Mission Buildings, Fort George 




The Mission Garden, Fort George 



FORT GEORGE 117 



large living room with its piano, library table, 
bookcases, easy chairs, oil paintings, fur rugs, etc., 
was well calculated to make one feel that life, 
even on Hudson Bay, could be made attractive 
and pleasant and was really not shorn of all the 
comforts of the outside world. 

Mr. Walton has spent twenty years on the Bay, 
and the evening was made very entertaining and 
instructive by the relating of his experiences, 
which led to many discussions on the features of 
his work and the methods he employs. He is 
eminently fitted for the work, having a thorough 
knowledge of the Indian and Eskimo languages. 
He has published a large number of tracts and, 
also, has arranged a great many hymns in these 
languages. He has made a number of records of 
these hymns and distributed them among those 
of his helpers who possess phonographs. We 
were privileged to hear some of the records, while 
at the Post on Great Whale River. 

Beside conducting all the services, week-day 
and Sunday, he is constantly attending to the 
sick, for he is the sole physician of the place. 

In addition to Mr. Walton's work at Fort 
George, he has charge of the Mission at Great 
Whale River Post, which he maintains with the 
assistance of Nero, an Eskimo lay reader. While 
he may make other trips to Great Whale River 
during the year, it is Mr. Walton's custom to 
spend one month of the early summer with his 



ii8 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Eskimo people there. The work has been much 
faciHtated by the able assistance of Mrs. Walton, 
who comes from a family long in the official ser- 
vice of the Hudson's Bay Company, and who has 
been familiar with the Indian language since 
childhood. Of their family, two of the children 
are now being educated in England. 

Mr. Walton has had many thrilling experiences 
during his career on the Bay. Noteworthy amongst 
these was one that occurred on the day of his 
marriage and while on his wedding tour, which 
consisted of a dog-team trip from Fort George 
to Great Whale River and return. It was while 
trying to make a record run at night that they 
broke through an air hole in the ice, narrowly 
escaping death. 

Mr. Walton recounted his many experiences 
in a very matter-of-fact manner, as though they 
were mere incidents that might be expected as 
part of his every-day work. 

The time passed quickly in the congenial sur- 
roundings of the Mission house, but we were 
forced to return to the tent early as we had left 
a young Indian lad to guard against the ravages 
of the dogs. We departed, more than ever im- 
pressed with the self-sacrifice and success of the 
Missionary and his work, for Mr. Walton's influ- 
ence has been felt throughout the entire Bay, 
more than any other individual's, and so greatly 
has it affected the people under his charge, that 



FORT GEORGE 119 



they repose the greatest confidence in him, and, 
in fact, seem to look upon him as almost infallible. 

We were soon to have a strong evidence of the 
preacher's influence, for when we returned to the 
tent, and found the lad patiently awaiting us, we 
decided to reward him with that which is dearest 
to the Indian's heart — something to eat and 
drink. We made him a cup of cocoa and gave 
him some biscuits, and when handing him the 
former said jestingly, eskootow wapooi (firewater). 
The lad jumped as if he had been hit with a club 
and attempted a hasty exit from the tent. After 
much coaxing, he was persuaded to return, and 
we finally induced him to take the cocoa, assuring 
him that Mr. Walton would drink it and that it 
was not whisky. 

The next day was spent in examining the chan- 
nels and the harbour of the Big River at Fort 
George. Mr. A. P. Low has said that the harbour 
at that place is the finest on the coast, and our 
observations were quite in accord with his. 

In our opinion, Fort George is destined to be 
one of the most important places on the Bay, 
when the east coast has been opened up and the 
country developed, which will undoubtedly follow 
the completion of the railway to the southern end 
of the Bay. The depth of channel and the abun- 
dant protection for small and large craft, together 
with the possibilities of agriculture, pulp, and tim- 
ber industries, to say nothing about its natural 



120 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

attractiveness, will undoubtedly give it precedence 
over other ports. 

There is little doubt that, if the Government 
were to establish experimental farms, say at 
Rupert House, Eastmain River, and at Fort 
George, they would achieve surprising results. 
These would be a strong factor in the opening 
up of two hundred and fifty miles of the most 
southern part of the Bay, and in transforming 
what is now an almost trackless forest into thriving 
rural communities. 

The advance of civilization at the present time 
to the frontiers of this country will no doubt 
cause the rise of serious questions which the country 
must face sooner or later. 

As has ever been the case where Indian people 
have encountered the advances of the white man's 
civilization, the result has been either their annihi- 
lation or their assimilation. If the former is not 
to be the case, two preventive measures should 
be taken. 

Firstly, educative : Industrial schools like those 
of Western Canada should be established, for as 
the white man crowds the Indian from his natural 
means of livelihood, it certainly becomes the 
white man's duty to educate and fit him for the 
farm and the workshop, to the end that he may 
in turn be qualified to earn a livelihood for him- 
self, and do his share in the development of his 
country. 



FORT GEORGE 121 



Since the Indian always adopts the white 
man's mode of attire and dwelling, he should be 
taught the white man's knowledge of health pre- 
servation and sanitary arrangements, for the 
latter have been but little required in his wigwam, 
and very naturally he knows little of them. Close, 
dark, unventilated houses, often steeped in filth 
and rubbish, the accumulation from years of use 
without cleaning, are, without doubt, some of the 
fundamental causes of the prevalence of tubercu- 
losis and divers loathsome diseases among them. 

Secondly, there should be means provided so 
that the inhabitants and travellers in that country, 
so far removed from a source of medical aid, 
may have proper attention in time of injury or 
disease, and that sanitary precautions, such as the 
isolation of those having contagious diseases, 
may be taken. The latter is particularly necessary 
as was shown by the measles epidemic of a few 
years ago. During that period the east coast 
Indians died by scores, owing purely to the lack 
of medical supervision and authoritative control. 

There is no doubt but these thousands of Indi- 
ans and Eskimos in the Hudson Bay cotmtry 
should have medical attention at short intervals; 
and at some central place, say Fort George, an 
established hospital, where the more serious cases 
might enjoy the advantages of doctor, nurse, 
and comfortable quarters. 

Late in the day we were destined to witness a 



122 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

most pathetic scene in Indian life. We had been 
attempting an examination of the upper end of 
the island and were returning, having been de- 
feated by swarms of black flies and mosquitoes, 
for the day was exceedingly hot and murky, 
excellent weather for the operations of these little 
black devils, when we were met by Mr. Walton. 
He informed us that a death had just occurred, 
the deceased being a little cripple boy, and that 
the burial was to take place shortly before sun- 
down. 

It is customary in the north country to bury 
quickly during the summer months, as the heat 
is intense and they have no means of preserving 
the body. Although most of their superstition 
has been given up, they still regard the dead 
body with an awe and dread, which it seems 
impossible to overcome. An Indian will rarely 
remain with a person, no matter how closely re- 
lated, if he feels certain that death will soon occur. 
It is very seldom, also, that a tent will be used in 
which any member of the family has died. After 
death, all the belongings of the deceased are 
bundled up and hidden in some out-of-the-way 
place, never to be used, and are seldom ever seen 
again. 

We were told that one of the Indians, who 
died the previous summer, had been so fearful of 
a visit from the spirit of his wife, who had died 
a short time before, that he guarded his tent 







The Family of " The Rat, " Fort George 




An Indian Burial at Fort George 



FORT GEORGE 123 



carefully every night by enclosing it with a fence, 
consisting of four posts and a fishing net, through 
which he believed the spirit would not pass. 

To show our sympathy, we attended the funeral 
services at the church and at the grave. At 
the conclusion of the church service, the body 
was carried in the little coffin, made of plain 
boards and painted black, on a bier made of two 
poles and half a dozen barrel staves. Over the 
coffin and bier was thrown a black cloth. 

The procession wended its way slowly and 
solemnly across the meadow to the cemetery, 
preceded by Mr. Walton in his clerical robes. 
Leaving the meadow, they passed down a short 
path through the trees and carried the body to the 
newly-made grave in the little cemetery, where 
lie many of the natives in graves unmarked and 
forgotten. 

In the rays of the setting sun, the little coffin 
was lowered into the grave, and the burial service 
read. No show of emotion stirred the stolid 
faces of the onlookers, with the exception of the 
father and mother, who, strangely contrary to 
Indian tradition, wept bitterly as the grave was 
being refilled. 

When the service was over, the men and women 
stole quietly away, leaving the bereaved parents 
alone with the minister. Finally, Mr. Walton 
took his departure, after speaking some words 
of comfort, and then, side by side, strange to 



124 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

relate, with bowed heads, the father and mother 
went silently back to their own tent. 

On the following day, the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany's schooner the Pride arrived from Charlton 
Island, and aboard of her came Bishop Anderson. 
In the evening we repaired to the Mission house 
and paid our respects to the Bishop, as did also 
the Factors of the two trading posts. 

A very pleasant evening was spent at the Mission 
house, and while there we learned it was the 
intention of the Bishop to visit Great Whale River. 
We offered to carry him in our motor boat if he 
were willing to run the risk of travelling in so small 
a craft. Mr. Walton informed us that he would 
be glad to have the Bishop accompany us if we 
would carry, in addition, a special guide whom 
he would provide. This we assured them was 
quite unnecessary with sailors of a whole month's 
experience, but the Bishop was naturally a man of 
much importance, and as Mr. Walton had little faith 
in the white man's ability to find harbours of which 
he had never heard, should he need them in time of 
storm, we finally agreed to take Joseph, the guide. 

On the next morning (Sunday) we attended 
services conducted by the Bishop in the pretty 
little church. This visit of the Bishop, the first 
in two years, was of course an occasion of impor- 
tance at Fort George, and in consequence, every- 
body in the place, attired in their best, attended 
the various services of the day. 



X 




Rev. W. G. Walton Bishop Anderson 

At Fort George 



FORT GEORGE 125 



The church has been built almost entirely by 
the minister and his assistant, they having added 
a much needed wing that summer. It is of wood 
throughout, very prettily stencilled in various 
designs and appropriate texts of scripture in 
Indian characters. 

In the afternoon the retiring manager of the 
Revillon Post and the one now in charge came and 
accompanied us to their residence, where we were 
hospitably entertained. The former was being 
transferred to Port Harrison, the most northerly 
trading post on the east coast, and about three 
himdred miles north of Fort George. Mr. Al- 
dridge, the retiring manager, did not look upon 
this as a pleasant change, for he and another 
would be the only white men at the place, except 
when the steamer made its annual call. 

Port Harrison Post has been established but 
four years, and in that time has become one of the 
most important Revillon posts on the Bay. The 
trading is entirely with the Eskimos, whose catch 
is mainly the white fox, seals, walrus, porpoise 
products; and polar bears also contribute to their 
revenue. 

Monday and Tuesday were spent in completing 
the investigations and in getting supplies for the 
continuance of the trip to Great Whale Post. 



CHAPTER XI 



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B 


l^, ,-v» 'y, .V 'X, ix^ lysj 



Fort George to Great WKale River 

UR arrangements were all completed 
by Tuesday evening, and on 
Wednesday morning we were to 
make the start for Great Whale 
River Post. For several days there 
had been wind and fog on the Bay. On rising at 
five o'clock on Wednesday morning, the weather 
although foggy showed signs of improvement, 
so we decided to break camp and load the boat. 
One was dispatched to the Mission house to notify 
the Bishop of our intended departure and of the 
necessity of having his guide ready and the baggage 
at the boat. 

The news that the Bishop was about to leave 
was noised around the place, causing quite a 
commotion, and soon the people began to gather 
at the pier until, at the time of our departure, 
there were several hundred men, women, and 
children assembled to say farewell and to bid 
the Bishop and ourselves ^'Godspeed." 

Joseph, the guide, was duly installed in the 
pilot's seat and we started down the river toward 
the Bay. No sooner had we reached it, than we 

126 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 127 

found a stiff wind blowing from the north, and 
the sea too rough to travel on, especially on ac- 
count of our having to cross Goose Bay, which, 
even in good weather, is likely to be rough. Con- 
sequently, after going about five miles we were 
very glad to take advantage of the shelter offered 
by Stromness Harbour. 

Hoping that the wind might go down, we made 
ready our dinner before putting up the tents. 
There was no such luck awaiting us, for the ele- 
ments seemed determined to thwart our plans, 
and for several days we were held in this harbour. 
We could scarcely have found a place with better 
camping facilities, as there was an abundance of 
wood and water and good shelter from the wind by 
the side of a large clump of willows and fir trees. 

The water at this place introduced us to a new 
problem. It was alive with millions of small red 
insects, about the shape of a shrimp and varying 
in size from that of a small black fly to that of the 
point of a pin. By straining the water through 
a cloth, we were able to remove all that could be 
seen of these, but in addition, as an added pre- 
caution, we boiled the water before using it. 

As the culinary department was about the only 
one that demanded our attention at the time and 
having as our guest the Bishop, a man apparently 
possessed of fine digestive powers, we decided that 
he was a fit subject on which to test some of our 
experiments in the line of cookery. 



128 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Having previously been successful in the con- 
coction of rhubarb puddings boiled in a canvas 
sample bag, we determined to try our hand that 
day on a boiled date pudding. Luckily the 
pudding was voted a success, although the side 
of the bag in which it was boiled was scorched 
out. The best proof of this was the fact that it 
was entirely demolished, and even Joseph smiled 
broadly, as he was asked to have a third helping. 
In fact, from this time on we always knew when 
Joseph liked the dessert, for, whereas two helpings 
were quite sufficient if it were ordinary, a third 
was none too many if it suited his fancy. 

The second day was wet and windy so we made 
ourselves as comfortable as the cold, damp weather 
would permit, and stayed in camp. About noon 
a sailboat entered the harbour from the north, 
and when the crew were told of the presence of 
the Bishop, they came ashore to meet him, bring- 
ing a fine duck as a present. After they had 
partaken liberally of a lunch, which was prepared 
for them, they departed in order to take advan- 
tage of the north wind, which was a fair one for 
them. They were from Fort George, having 
been delivering supplies at various camps along 
the coast for the Hudson's Bay Company. How 
strange it seemed to see such up-to-date methods 
of business — delivery of groceries without charge, 
in such a remote portion of the country. 

In the evening, the duck was made into stew 




Fisher Women at Fort George 




Watching our Departure from Fort George 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 129 

in which were cooked huge dumplings, the thought 
of which makes us hungry even now. 

This was the first of August, the summer was 
half over, and we were but half way to our north- 
em objective, a very serious thought as the evening 
came without any change in the weather conditions. 

On the morrow we were destined to a pleasant 
surprise, for although the weather was still cloudy 
and a fog was hanging over the Bay, the water 
was calm enough to permit of our travelling. We 
were on board and ready to start at half past 
four o'clock. When once outside of the harbour's 
protection, we found conditions were about as 
bad as they had been when we entered it, but it 
was too much like quitting for us to turn back, 
so we decided to risk it and go ahead. How 
Joseph found the course without a compass was 
a mystery to us, for only in a few spots could 
the outlines of the land be seen. 

At last, the third prominent landmark of the 
Bay hove in sight. It was Wastikon, a bare, 
treeless rock, which rises from the water near the 
northern point of Goose Bay, about fifteen miles 
from Fort George. It is very high, although not 
so high as either Sherrick Mount or Cape Hope 
Islands, nevertheless it can be seen on a clear day 
for many miles. 

Here there was an Eskimo camp, and as we 
drew near, one of the men launched his kyak and 
paddled toward us. We stopped and awaited his 



130 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

approach, which he made with amazing rapidity. 
After the usual greetings, he produced some fine 
salmon trout, which he presented to us, receiving 
some sugar in return. 

Leaving our visitor we crossed to a group of 
islands to the north of Wastikon and there stopped 
for breakfast. In the meantime the fog had 
lifted slightly, so when the meal was finished, the 
journey was resumed until the first group of 
islands, which forms the southern part of the 
Pipestone gutway, was reached. By that time, 
the wind, which was dismissing the fog, was raising 
a heavy sea, consequently we decided to camp for 
dinner and await weather developments. 

No improvement took place during the after- 
noon, so camp was prepared for the night. This 
was one of the pleasantest camps of the journey. 
It was pitched on a fine, mossy spot, with plenty 
of wood and water at hand. It seemed as though 
we were either travelling in a portion of the coun- 
try that abounded in good camping places, or else 
that we were guided by fortune to where the exist- 
ing ones were. 

During the afternoon, one of the party had an 
experience which created a great deal of excite- 
ment for some time, but from which he escaped 
without mishap. He had never managed a canoe 
by himself, to any extent, until he left Moose 
Factory on the trip, and although at this time 
he could control one fairly well if accompanied by 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT IVHALE RIVER 131 

another in quiet water, he was hardly qualified 
to go alone in a strong wind. However, some 
provisions were required from the boat and he 
volunteered to go for them alone. 

Nobody thought of there being any danger, so 
he put off unaccompanied. The wind, now quite 
a gale, was with him on the way out, so that all 
went well until he tried to turn up to the side of 
the boat. As he turned his canoe, its bow, high 
out of the water, caught the full force of the wind, 
and although he paddled his hardest, he was 
swept swiftly past the boat. Now came the tug 
of war, as he turned around completely and tried 
again, but with the same result. The seriousness 
of the situation dawned upon all, and was mani- 
fested in those on the beach by much shouting of 
advice to the one in the canoe, although it was 
quite unintelligible at such a distance, owing to 
the high wind. 

There being only one canoe it was impossible 
to go to his assistance, a fact that made the situa- 
tion all the more grave. After several attempts, 
he managed to reach the boat with the bow of his 
canoe, but being unable to bring the stern, in 
which he was seated, around to the side, was blown 
away again and again. The excitement and 
exertion were beginning to show their effects on 
him. The onlookers tried to advise him by signals 
from the shore, which eventually proved more 
effective than their shouting had done, for chang- 



132 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

ing his position to the centre of the canoe, as they 
had been trying to direct him, he was immediately 
in control and reached the boat, and later the 
shore, a wearied but a much wiser man. 

The island was absolutely without any protec- 
tion for a camp. Our tents were pitched on really 
the highest point of the island, as it was the only 
dry, soft, grassy place to be found. Elsewhere 
it was almost entirely composed of smooth, bare 
rock. 

The night was damp and foggy, so a huge camp- 
fire of drift cedar stumps was built in front of our 
tent. With the tent flaps thrown back, we seated 
ourselves comfortably in the warmth of the fire, 
and by its light the Bishop conducted the usual 
evening devotions. 

As the next morning proved too stormy to 
permit of our striking out to sea, Joseph proposed 
that we should follow the sinuous route of the 
gutway. The channel, although not very deep, 
is sufficiently so for the passage of the Companies* 
sailboats, when piloted by experienced men. As 
Joseph was a regular pilot, he knew the course per- 
fectly, and felt sure that he could take us through 
without difficulty. We accordingly embarked 
about eleven o'clock. Shortly after starting, the 
wind rose even higher, but we were protected 
from the heavy seas by the multitude of islands 
through which we passed. 

The experience of the morning certainly served 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 133 

to impress us with the nature of a gutway. Its 
winding way led us to all points of the compass, 
and its many shoals were a source of constant 
anxiety to the man at the helm. 

During the morning we passed the low-lying 
shores at the entrance to Paul Bay, and stopped 
for dinner about three o'clock on an island which 
proved to be devoid of any, except rotten, wood. 
On landing everybody started on a hunt for 
wood, and it was fully half an hour before enough 
was found to boil the tea water. Search was also 
made for water, without avail, until the camping 
place was again reached, where a spring was dis- 
covered within a hundred feet of the spot. The 
island, tmlike most we had visited, was covered 
with a thick growth of Arctic moss, but here 
and there its surface was dotted with beds of the 
most beautiful varicoloured flowers, specimens of 
which were added to our collection, which every 
day was becoming larger and more interesting. 

Considerable time had been lost in the search 
for fuel, but as the day was now calm and bright 
and there were prospects of another good long 
run, much haste was made with the meal, and 
before long we had it finished, the kitchen packed, 
and were aboard the boat again. 

Scarcely had we been out half an hour, when 
huge clouds appeared in the west, and as they 
came rolling on toward us, told of the approach 
of a dangerous storm. Joseph began to look for 



134 I^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

a harbour, but before we could reach one, a furious 
driving rainstorm settled down and almost hid 
the island for which we were steering. A place 
of protection from the storm was found in a har- 
bour which lay between two islands, but we were 
still doomed to mishap, for the tide was exceed- 
ingly low and the water consequently shallow. 
The propeller was soon clogged with seaweed, 
leaving the boat uncontrollable with the rudder. 
We were immediately blown ashore, and it was 
with considerable difficulty that the boat was 
polled against the wind into a safe anchoring 
place. 

It was Saturday evening and accordingly the 
camp was destined to be a Sunday one. To find 
a suitable place to erect our tents, it was neces- 
sary to go about a quarter of a mile from the 
landing place, so that by the time the camp was 
made and the supper cooked it was dark. 

Sunday proved to be a beautiful, bright, sunny 
day, but with high winds, so it was spent quietly. 
A good long sleep in the morning and an early 
retirement in the evening, with morning and 
evening devotions by the Bishop, gave little time 
for aught else save the preparing and eating of 
two meals. 

At three o'clock on Monday morning Joseph 
called us, announcing a clear day and no sea. 
We prepared a hasty breakfast and were ready to 
sail by six o'clock. We had gone only a short 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 135 

distance when the wind freshened considerably, 
but keeping well in the shelter of the islands which 
bordered the coast we encountered but few rough 
places. The sea was very rough beyond the 
islands, as in the short, unprotected openings it 
would dash high over our front deck and prob- 
ably would have swamped us had it not been 
for the canvas boat cover which rendered good 
service. 

We had been travelling but an hour, when ice 
cakes were sighted seaward, probably two miles 
out. The ice appeared in larger quantities as the 
morning advanced, and about five miles off Cape 
Jones it had grown to be an immense field, closely 
packed. Between this and the shore the ice was 
scattered, piled up in great heaps over the shoals, 
but sufficiently open for us to dodge in and out 
through it, right up to the harbour on the south 
side of Cape Jones. 

This point is the dividing one between James 
and Hudson Bays, and we had been looking for- 
ward to seeing it, with not only much interest, 
but with considerable anxiety, as it is one of the 
most dangerous localities for navigation on the 
east coast. This danger is due to the shoaly 
character of the water, huge boulders often coming 
nearly to the surface; to the swift, adverse, tidal 
currents, and to the winds which are nearly always 
blowing at the Cape. 

The vicinity of Cape Jones has been a favourite 



136 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

camping place of the Eskimos for many years, 
there being specially good salmon rivers and lakes 
a short distance back in the interior. The expecta- 
tion of visiting these camps again and securing 
some of the fish, had grown from day to day, and 
as we came near the harbour at Cape Jones, one 
of our chief concerns was whether our old friends 
would be found there or not. 

As we entered the Bay to the south of Cape 
Jones, on that beautiful sunny afternoon of August 
the fifth, the sight was a most impressive one. 
Directly ahead of us, extending far out into the 
sea, lay the Cape as though it were a great hand, 
the points reaching out like fingers, beginning as 
shoals and sloping gently upwards and back to 
form the high hills which border the main coast. 

Piled high upon the shoals and outlying reefs 
and in the deeper water as a closely packed field, 
stretching far out to sea, the ice made a dazzling 
sight as it glittered in the bright sunshine. Around 
us floated countless ice cakes, detached from the 
field by the winds and tidal currents, some but a 
few cubic feet in volume, while others were as 
large as a cottage above the water, their total 
size being, as is always the rule, nine times as 
large. These big cakes were often like huge pieces 
of statuary, worn by the sun into shapes, some- 
times exceedingly lifelike, at others into grotesque 
figures, which readily suggested to our imagina- 
tion those depicted in ancient mythology. On 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 137 

one side would be seen a perfect statue of a sleep- 
ing polar bear, and on another a giant grotto with 
imps and elves in the most exaggerated exhibitions 
of contortion. 

To our delight we soon spied the Eskimo camp. 
Its location was at once picturesque, and yet bare 
of that appearance of hospitality that green fields 
and forests lend to the dwelling places of their 
more southern neighbours. The camp was pitched 
at the base of the steep rocky hill which rises 
abruptly from the water's edge, leaving but a 
narrow beach. There were three marquees in 
sight and figures could be seen moving about them, 
proving to our satisfaction that they saw us and 
soon would be out with their fish. 

By dint of careful manoeuvring amongst the 
shoals that border the deep but tortuous channel, 
we finally arrived in a snug little harbour on the 
south side of the Cape and anchored there. Hav- 
ing had nothing to eat since breakfast (it was 
long past noon), we took our ''grub" ashore and, 
after eating, went to reconnoitre the ice situation 
on the other side of the Cape, from the top of the 
hill. 

The view from the hilltop showed that any 
attempt to round the Cape would not only be 
futile at this time, but very dangerous. The late 
north winds had packed the ice amongst the 
numerous islands, which lie between the Cape and 
Long Island, very tightly, and that through 



138 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

which we might be able to wind our way was 
moving swiftly with the tidal currents, with the 
consequent danger of crushing the small craft. 

As far as we could see up Long Island Sound, 
the ice was closely packed, except for narrow lanes 
which began and terminated abruptly. To the 
south and west the field stretched for miles, grow- 
ing gradually narrower and more open as its 
distance from the Cape increased. 

As there was no hope of proceeding, we returned 
to the boat for the camping outfit and prepared 
a comfortable camp for an indefinite stay. We 
felt sure that a change of wind would break up 
the field and enable us to proceed. 

The spot offered an ideal place for a camp. A 
high cHff protected it from the cold north wind; 
a fine grassy spot contributed a soft bed in the 
absence of boughs; smooth, flat rocks a short 
distance from the tent contained pools of fine, 
fresh water; and along the beach, plenty of drift- 
wood offered us fuel without much labour. 

We had been at work getting up the tents but 
a few minutes, when a group of Eskimos appeared 
on the cliffs above and began descending to the 
level of the camp. They came shyly up to us 
and one by one offered to shake hands, saying 
hoyk and smiling broadly. There was one man 
who was nearly blind, being led by two bright 
little boys who looked much like twins, about 
twelve years of age, and who could speak a little 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 139 

English, having lived at the Rupert House Post 
for a while. 

There were two women in the party, one young 
and apparently the blind man's wife, the other 
a very old woman whose bent form, shrivelled 
countenance, and scraggly, white hair, hanging 
partly over her face, reminded one strongly of 
the pictures of witches that in our infant days 
adorned the pages of our picture books, but whose 
genial smile could not help but inspire confidence 
and respect to which her age was entitled. The 
man and the boys were dressed in the typical 
capot shirts of duck bagging with trousers to 
match, tucked into the tops of their sealskin boots. 
The former are devoid of buttons, have a hood, 
are pulled over the head, and hang loosely about 
the body. The women were in English print 
dresses and wore shawls over their heads. These 
articles of clothing are obtained at the trading 
posts. On the man's back was a bag which he 
took off after the salutations were over and pre- 
sented to us. It contained about a dozen salmon 
trout and whitefish, which would average nearly 
two pounds apiece. 

Not content to come without some gift, the 
old lady brought an armful of dry cedar for start- 
ing the fire. The kindness and generosity of these 
people of the North has always aroused our admira- 
tion for them, but the simple act of this old woman 
impressed us more than anything else of the kind. 



140 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Joseph understood a little of the Eskimo lan- 
guage and managed to gain some information 
from them, viz., that the ice which composed the 
field had formed in the vicinity during the previous 
winter, and after breaking up had not moved 
northward and out of the Hudson Straits, as was 
usual, but had been held there by the adverse 
winds, for the first time in the memory of these 
people. The ice field was much diminished in 
size by this time, owing to the rapid evaporation 
during the late warm weather. 

The recent winds had been very heavy ones 
from the north, with the result that the ice was 
jammed tighter than ever amongst the islands 
and in the sound. We also learned that the other 
party, in the York boat, had passed through 
before the recent tightening of the ice, and were 
probably a long distance ahead. 

We were much disappointed at the delay, but 
Joseph was at the height of his ambition, for he 
and the Bishop could have service with the Eski- 
mos every day as long as we remained, which 
they proceeded to do that very evening, much to 
the delight of these natives, who only hear a 
minister a few times each year and the Bishop 
only once in two or more years. 

Two more days were spent at this camp. Each 
morning, early, we would proceed to the hilltop 
in order to observe the condition of the ice field, 
only to return to the camp with the disappointing 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 141 

news that the outlook was no better. The days 
were spent in cooking, sewing, and such other 
jobs as can best be done in a settled camp. 

We had many visits from our Husky friends in 
the meantime. Coming up quietly, they would 
squat down, Turk fashion, a few yards away, 
there to watch our every movement, often passing 
quiet remarks among themselves and smiling 
broadly, as we thought, at our outlandish methods 
of doing things. 

On the occasion of one of these visits, we were 
busily engaged in baking a deep rhubarb pie from 
the remains of some preserves we had made at 
Fort George, when several of them came up and 
stood in a group, watching the operation with much 
curiosity. The men had just returned from Fort 
George, having arrived at that place on the night 
previous to our departure, and had told of the 
ice conditions at the Cape, but too late for the 
information to reach us. 

The women, who were evidently the wives of 
the men, were very plump, short, and, above all, 
pleasant creatures, not at all bad-looking for 
people of their type. One of them had a child. 
It was laced tightly in a sort of bag of black 
plush, with only its head free. This interesting 
package was carried on the mother's back, in a 
shawl folded V- shape, tied at the ends, and hung 
around her neck. We tried to separate her from 
the rest to take her photograph with the baby on 



142 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

her back, but she evidently misunderstood, for 
before the camera could be focussed, she lifted 
the youngster out of the shawl, sat down on the 
ground, and commenced nursing it. 

These women, like the former ones, were clad 
in print dresses, but had added a touch of native 
colour to their costumes in the form of a broad 
U-shaped scarf or apron, hung from the waist at 
the back. This was made of heavy black or 
white cloth and was roughly embroidered in many 
colours of silk. Joseph informed us that these 
scarfs are worn by most all of the Eskimo women 
and vary in length according to the age of the 
wearer. These visits were replete with interest- 
ing and instructive experiences, and helped to 
keep up the spirits of the party in the face of the 
discouraging conditions, for the weather was the 
finest for travelling since the day of our departure 
from Rupert House and we were unable to make 
use of it. 

On the evening of the third day we. walked over 
the high hills and across a valley to a second 
range, the ranges running back at right angles to 
the coastline, a distance of about three miles, to 
get a better look at the ice in the sound. We 
found that it had opened up considerably, al- 
though not enough to let us pass the islands. 
However, a south wind was blowing, and it seemed 
that chances were good for open water in the 
morning. 




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FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 143 

The walk in both directions across the valley 
was a trying one. Millions of mosquitoes swarmed 
about our heads, getting into our mouths, ears, 
noses, and eyes, and biting us until we were com- 
pelled to cover our heads with large handkerchiefs 
and run for the hilltop where the breeze would 
blow the tormentors away. 

We were up on the following morning at a 
quarter to three and ascended the hill again to 
see the condition of the ice. The sun had not 
yet risen, but it was quite light, and we could see 
that the sound beyond was fairly clear. The 
ice seemed to be tightly jammed between the 
Cape and the islands. There was practically no 
wind when we arose and the day gave promise 
of being an ideal one for travelling, but at sunrise 
a stiff breeze sprang up from the north-east. 

Everything being packed ready for starting, 
it seemed hard to abandon the idea of resuming 
the journey. Mac and Joseph vigorously op- 
posed such an attempt, asserting that it would 
be too great a risk to venture out among the ice 
cakes, moving rapidly under the influence of 
wind and tide, any of which would have been 
sufficient to crush our small craft like an egg 
shell. At their suggestion it was decided to 
await further developments. 

About six o'clock the wind fell and it was deter- 
mined to attempt the passage through the ice 
field. With feelings somewhat akin to excitement 



144 I^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

we started down a lane of open water scarcely 
fifteen feet wide, bordered on either side by long 
lines of closely-packed ice blocks, moving out 
with the tide. 

Such a clear way was not to be our portion for 
long, as was early discovered, the course necessi- 
tating a passage through one of the lines of ice 
blocks, at right angles to its direction of motion. 
Approaching it slowly, Joseph watched his op- 
portunity to make a dash through an opening 
which was sufficiently wide to admit the boat. 
That this was risky business was soon emphasized, 
for no sooner had the boat gotten through, than 
the blocks came swiftly together, catching the 
canoe amidships. Fortunately it rose out of the 
water as the ice came together, and although it 
nearly dumped the cargo, the canoe was un- 
damaged. From this time on for nearly an hour, 
we dodged between great blocks of ice which 
moved aimlessly about, or ran the gauntlet through 
lanes of moving ice. There were many narrow 
escapes, but fortunately no more collisions. 

When the Cape was finally rounded, much more 
open water was foimd although there were still 
many ice cakes, some of them of huge dimensions. 
It was with feelings of great relief at having passed 
another danger point. Cape Jones, that we made 
our way up Long Island Sound, twenty-five miles 
long and six miles wide. 

From Fort George to the Cape, the shores are 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 145 

low and the scenery is of little interest, showing 
a constant sameness which is tiring to the eye. 
At Cape Jones a decided change takes place, the 
low shores giving way to high, rocky hills. The 
former are characteristic of James Bay, and 
the latter of Hudson Bay. 

The scenery in the sound was of the most rugged 
nature, the shores of the mainland rising in steep, 
rocky slopes, to an elevation of several hundred 
feet, a short distance back from the water, bare 
of all vegetation, save Arctic moss and a few 
patches of scrubby spruce. 

Here and there a valley opens as a portal to the 
inland country, and in these sheltered places some- 
times a gentle slope would be seen in the distance, 
covered with short grass, giving it an appearance 
of pasture land. This was in fact more particu- 
larly noticeable on the long slopes at the south- 
em side of Cape Jones. At other places these 
valleys were thickly wooded with scrubby spruce. 
On the island side of the sound, high cliffs of 
limestone, sometimes capped with a growth of 
evergreens, were to be seen. 

The sound, with the exception of its southern en- 
trance, is devoid of islands, but prominent hills, 
easily distinguishable by their peculiar forms, indi- 
cated by such names as the Indians have given 
them, occur at intervals along the mainland. Of 
these. White Bear Hills and Split Rock are the most 
prominent and stand out as landmarks for fully 



146 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

twenty miles. The latter consists of two bold 
peaks, which rise but a short distance from each 
other, while the former are rounded hills of white 
weathered rock, suggestive to the Indians of 
crouching white bears. 

All the way up the sound, the monotony of the 
tortuous course through the ice was relieved by 
the interesting scenery on either side, and the 
wonderfully realistic forms depicted by the action 
of the sun on the ice cakes. On one side would 
be seen a miniature castle with its battlements, 
on the other a hideous sea dragon, with uplifted 
head, while near by would be a pair of huge birds 
with outstretched wings, or a lady's head on 
which would be poised a most fantastic hat. 

The ice so occupied our attention one way or 
another that unconsciously little heed was given 
to the mainland, a fact which later caused us 
regret, for on the return trip we failed to recognize 
it sufficiently well to locate our position, at a time 
when it was of the utmost importance. 

Late in the morning we saw a mist ahead and 
came to the conclusion that another ice pack was 
the cause of it. About twelve o'clock Little Cape 
Jones was sighted several miles ahead, and nearing 
the north end of Long Island Sound, we found 
similar conditions of ice to those encountered at 
Cape Jones. At first sight it appeared impossible 
to proceed farther, but drawing nearer and enter- 
ing the outskirts of the field, it was discovered 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 147 

that by careful manoeuvring we would be able to 
pick a course through it. 

As at Cape Jones proper, the Little Cape is 
conspicuous for its high hills. The resemblance 
of one to the other is undoubtedly responsible for 
the similarity of names. 

About two o'clock we rounded the Cape and 
began to look eagerly for Little Cape Jones River, 
where it was expected another Eskimo camp would 
be fotmd. Shortly after, our attention was at- 
tracted by the sound of gunshots, and looking off 
in the direction from which the sound had come, 
several Eskimos in their kyaks were seen coming 
towards us. As they drew up alongside of the 
boat we were quite surprised to hear one of them 
address us in very good English, and a few minutes 
later, to find that it was Husky Bill, who had been 
Mr. Strong's guide from Fort George. 

While the first salute was unexpected, the 
information which followed came as a pleasant 
surprise. Husky Bill had left the York boat 
party but a day or two previous at Great Whale 
River, and it was quite certain that all were well 
and that the parties at the most were only a 
few days apart. Naturally the presence of the 
Bishop with us caused considerable excitement 
in the Httle camp when we entered on the invita- 
tion of Husky Bill. 

While the luncheon was being prepared, the 
Bishop and Joseph were surrounded by the people 



148 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

of the camp. The former gave them a short talk, 
which was interpreted by Husky Bill. While 
this was going on, the mosquitoes made a general 
onslaught on the party. This was what we con- 
sidered to be our introduction to real Ungava mos- 
quitoes. The air was fairly thick with them, and 
one of the party, who was of a mathematical 
turn of mind, made the more or less approximate 
estimate that there were fifteen millions of them 
per cubic yard of free air. This condition of 
things necessitated a hasty closing of the meeting 
and the bolting of a half prepared meal. In fact, 
the pancakes which were mixed up and fried 
at this place might more accurately have been 
called mosquito fritters. 

As we were preparing to return to the boat and 
proceed on the journey, the Eskimos brought the 
Bishop presents, consisting of two large salted 
geese and some fine salmon trout. 

After a general handshaking we embarked, 
heartily thankful to escape from our tormentors, 
the mosquitoes, although many followed the boat 
for some time. The ice field was as closely packed 
as ever, but although progress was necessarily 
slow, a passage was effected through it. It was 
tiresome work at the wheel, but throughout the 
day each took his turn, and thus materially 
relieved the strain on the individual. 

About five o'clock we arrived off the harbour 
at Sucker Creek. As this was the last one that 



Drifting Ice in Long Island Sound 




Kyaks at Little Cape Jones 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT IVHALE RIVER 149 

could be reached before dark we decided to enter 
it and camp. The shores in this vicinity are 
much lower than those between the two capes 
and, from a distance, resemble beautiful green 
pasture land. They are covered with a growth 
of coarse grass and are entirely devoid of trees or 
shrubs. 

The harbour at Sucker Creek is formed by a 
tongue of land extending out from the mainland. 
It offers good shelter and fresh water from the 
creek, but wood is scarce. Good or bad as the 
harbour might be, it cannot be said that its in- 
habitants were of the most genial nature, for 
once inside of it, we were visited by an advance 
guard of mosquitoes and informed, through the 
medium of many savage bites, that it was dan- 
gerous to enter their sacred precincts. By the 
time we were anchored, they were about us in 
incredible quantities. 

We have seen mosquitoes in many places and 
in great numbers but never have we encountered 
such as these. They fairly swarmed about our 
heads and hands, eager to reach the places where 
the skin was unprotected. Our clothes, also, 
were covered with them, so that the rubbing of a 
hand across the back of our sweaters would leave 
a streak of mashed remains thereon. 

We threw our equipment into the canoe as 
quickly as possible and made for the shore. The 
constant filling of our nostrils, eyes, ears, and 



150 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 



mouths, if we were so foolish as to open the latter, 
soon had us all in a fever of excitement. 

We rushed up the bank with the tents and 
dunnage, stumbling blindly over the boulder- 
covered beach. Throwing our arms about us like 
crazy men, we endeavoured to drive the fiendish 
pests away while setting up the tents. As each 
was erected, its owner would disappear, to lie 
under the protection of his canopy and nurse his 
swollen face and hands. 

The strain of the combat, combined with the 
intense heat of the evening, soon caused a general 
thirst, and one volunteered to go with Joseph in 
search of fresh water. The party returned shortly 
with the water, but had been so harassed by the 
mosquitoes that they had not even stopped to 
take a drink. 

No vote was taken as to whether or not we 
should prepare supper, but as well as we can now 
recall it, no one seemed to recollect that they were 
in the habit of taking food in the evening, and 
supper was not even referred to that night. 

To make matters worse, two of the party found 
that a bottle of a greasy, medicinal fluid, which 
they had been carrying with their bedding in a 
dunnage bag, had been broken, evidently in the 
wild scramble on the shore, and the liquid had 
thoroughly saturated the blankets and canopy. 
An almost fruitless attempt to wash it out with 
cold salt water followed, but the unfortunates 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 151 

finally gave it up, and retired to rest, using the 
blankets as they were, and thankful for a protected 
spot in which to lie down, even though it were in 
wet blankets. 

If ever mortals appreciated a cheesecloth can- 
opy, we did that night, for, although the constant 
striking of the tent by the millions of mosqui- 
toes inside of it made a sound like the patter of 
gentle rain, they were unable to get through to 
the weary occupants. Thus fortified, we lay 
musing on the incidents of the day, which had 
truly been an eventful one, and it was only then 
that we recollected that the usual evening devo- 
tions by the Bishop had been quite overlooked. 
It was very evident that the mosquitoes had 
caused neglect of the spiritual as well as the 
physical needs of the party. 

The next morning, Friday, August the ninth, 
was a beautiful one, and the party was up at 
four o'clock, being anxious to reach Great Whale 
River Post as speedily as possible. The Bishop 
had planned to return from Great Whale River on 
the Hudson's Bay Company's boat, the IneneWy 
and he began to fear it might have passed on the 
outside of Long Island while we were being held 
at Cape Jones, and having made its trip north 
might be waiting for him, or possibly have returned 
to Charlton without him. 

Breakfast was hastily prepared and an attempt 
made to eat it amid the clouds of mosquitoes 



152 7^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

that were still enforcing their presence, halo like, 
around each person. Finally, the attempt was 
given up in disgust and we were compelled to 
break camp and get everything into the boat as 
speedily as possible. The enemy was not to be 
baffled for while we were loading the boat from 
the canoe, the sails and boat covers changed from 
white to black, and when we pulled out of the 
harbour, it was with our greatest number of pas- 
sengers. We supposed that our pursuers would 
soon be left behind, but for fully two hours our 
lives were made miserable by them. 

Considerable ice was encountered until within 
about fifteen miles of Great Whale River where 
the sea gradually became freer of it. About ten 
miles from the river, two black spots were seen 
on a large cake of moving ice. At first they 
appeared to be either bears or seals, but when 
nearer, proved to be two Eskimos. Joseph was 
anxious to enquire about the Inenew and to inform 
the Huskies that the Bishop was with us on his 
way to the Post, but as this would have entailed 
a considerable loss of time, we did not go out of 
our course to hold an interview with them. 

Before reaching the mouth of the river, another 
party of Eskimos in kyaks was met. Since no 
information had been obtained from the previous 
group, a stop was made to speak with these. 
From them it was learned that the Inenew had 
not yet reached the Great Whale River Post. 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT WHALE RIVER 153 

The Bishop then began to fear that her trip had 
been entirely abandoned owing to the presence 
of so much ice. About this he was not to be long 
in doubt, for a couple of hours later, when we 
were leaving Great Whale River, the Inenew was 
already in sight of the Post, although we did not 
see it. 

The shores, which had lowered after Little Cape 
Jones was passed, gradually rose again north of 
Sucker Creek, and as Great Whale River was 
approached the hills assumed mountainous pro- 
portions. 

About one o^clock we came actually into the 
waters of the Great Whale River. The tide was 
going out and the wind was against us, so that 
our progress was somewhat slow. The scenery 
from the mouth of the river is of such a character 
that one could well afford to delay. The blue 
hills inland, towering several hundred feet high, 
and the high ridges running parallel to the sea, 
with the Post houses nestled far up at the top of 
a high bank, to the left, made a most beautiful 
and interesting picture. 

We were in high spirits at having accomplished 
this part of the journey, from Cape Jones to Great 
Whale River, the harbours being few and far 
between, with the consequent danger for small 
craft in the event of a storm. If the weather 
conditions were favourable for three days more, 
we would be practically at our destination, and in 



154 ^^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

the meantime were likely to overtake the York 
boat. 

As we approached the Post, the noise of the 
motor boat attracted the attention of the Indians 
and Eskimos, who were there in full force, awaiting 
the arrival of the Inenew with supplies, and they 
began to gather on the river bank. 

Drawing near, we could not help admiring the 
neat appearance of the buildings in their coats of 
red and white paint, against the background of 
the hillside, with its growth of long luxuriant grass. 
Nowhere had we seen the equal of this grass. 

When about two hundred feet from the shore, 
the boat was anchored and Joseph, jumping 
up on one of the seats, proclaimed in loud, sten- 
torian tones, the arrival of the Bishop, first in 
Cree and then in Eskimo. By this time the crowd 
had increased to one of several hundred who were 
eagerly awaiting our landing. 

The Bishop and Joseph were hastily taken ashore 
and with ourselves were met at the landing by 
Harold Undgarten, the Factor's assistant. The 
Factor, Mr. Mavor, was away on a porpoise hunt. 
Much to our surprise Harold recognized us, al- 
though it had been five years since our previous 
visit. On our landing a general handshaking en- 
sued. Every man, woman, boy, and girl in the 
place was apparently determined to welcome the 
Bishop, and we came in for the same treatment. 

We found everybody bright and happy, despite 




Hudson's Bay Company's Post, Great Whale River 




Eskimo Women, Great Whale River 



FORT GEORGE TO GREAT IVHALE RIVER 155 

the fact that there was Httle or no food in the 
place, owing to the non-appearance of the Inenew 
with the spring suppHes. We had been expecting 
to purchase some provisions there ourselves, but 
found we would have to depend entirely on our 
own supplies, which were in the York boat, pre- 
ceding us. In fact, we were so nearly out of food 
that it was impossible for us to leave any for the 
Bishop and Joseph, which we otherwise would 
have done, knowing that food was so scarce at 
the Post. 

We felt certain that as long as there was any 
food at the place, the Bishop and Joseph would 
get their share. Their reception was significant 
of the esteem in which they were held. Poor 
Joseph was nearly mobbed by the crowd, who 
eagerly pressed forward to greet him, an embrace 
and a kiss on each cheek being received from both 
men and women alike. 

During the brief stay of an hour, it was ascer- 
tained that an Eskimo, who had arrived that day 
from the North, brought the news that he had 
passed the York boat about twenty miles distant 
from Great Whale River. 



CHAPTER XII 




Great Whale River to Little Whale 

River 

AYING farewell to the Bishop and 
Joseph and returning to the boat, 
we ate a cold lunch in haste, hop- 
ing to overtake the York boat 
before camping time. Although 
Mac had plenty of time while the others were 
ashore to replenish the gasoline tank, which he 
might have suspected would be empty after the 
long run, he failed to take advantage of the 
opportunity. 

When but a few hundred feet down the river 
the engine stopped short. Investigation showed 
the fuel tank to be entirely empty, and the nearest 
available supply was in a case on the bottom of 
the boat under a stack of dunnage. To fill the 
tank required about thirty minutes, which to us, 
in our haste to overtake the other party, seemed 
fully an hour. 

We were again without a guide, although, to 
tell the truth, we did not feel the loss of him se- 
verely. For two days before our arrival at Great 
Whale River, Joseph had been somewhat neglect- 

156 



GREAT TO LITTLE WHALE RIVER 157 

ful of his duties at the wheel, and while we took 
turns at the steering he enjoyed many long naps. 
We took it for granted at the time that he con- 
sidered us good assistants, and he evidently 
feared little for the safety of the craft while in 
our hands. 

It was somewhat difficult to find the channel 
when leaving the mouth of the river, but the 
big sandbar was rounded and the entrance to 
Manitounuk Sound reached without mishap. 
Coasting along the mainland of the sound, some 
shoals among the small islands near the entrance 
were encountered, so a course was taken well out 
toward the middle to avoid them. 

Had it been earlier in the day, we would have 
immediately crossed to the island side of the sound, 
but there were two or three good harbours on the 
mainland side, and as the day was rapidly advanc- 
ing, it was useless to attempt overtaking the other 
party, so that a harbour with a camping place 
would soon be necessary. Hence we stayed on 
the mainland side. 

As camping time approached, we very naturally 
began to turn our thoughts to the experiences of 
the night before and wonder if they were to be 
duplicated that night. 

A long bay with a fine sandy beach came in 
sight and here it was decided to anchor. A more 
ideal place for camping could not be conceived of 
than that was, had it not been for the mosquitoes. 



158 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

On landing we set up the tents and suspended 
the canopies in the usual manner. Mac said 
*' good-night" and vanished into his tent, not to 
be seen again until morning. Up to this time, 
we had eaten practically nothing that day with 
the exception of a very scanty lunch on the boat 
at Great Whale River., Our appetites prompted 
us, in spite of the conflicting circumstances, to 
make a fire and attempt the cooking of some kind 
of food. The supplies being low, and ordinary 
cooking out of the question, we decided to make 
a kettle of boiled flour. We partook of this deli- 
cacy, with sugar and milk added, under the safe 
seclusion of the canopy. 

The next morning, Saturday, August the tenth, 
was cloudless and without a breeze. We were 
up shortly after sunrise, while it was still a little 
cool and the mosquitoes somewhat dopish, so 
were able to get a comfortable breakfast. 

Across from the camping place was a picturesque 
island, known as the Bill of Portland. The vari- 
coloured strata of this island, in the bright, morn- 
ing sunlight, made a most beautiful picture. We 
photographed it, but owing to the distance, the 
camera did not do it justice. 

In all our travelling on the Bay, this half day 
spent in the Manitounuk Sound was the most 
pleasant and enjoyable. The high hills of the 
mainland rise in a gentle slope from the water's 
edge, reaching their maximum elevation at a 



7e'3«' 



78' 



77 V 



77* 



5^. 



56 



SCALE 
MIL.ES 



6 



GOftDON ISL/\^D 



^ /.N A S 



MILLER ISLAND 
T/*YtOR ISL/^^ Dj 



24 



G/LLffTS /SLANO 



CUPRHN ISLANC '^ 



\^ ^ Rl V/> 



ARMSTRONG ISLAND ^t^ 
CLARKE: ISLAND 



LUTTIT ISLANdJJ 
ANDERSON ISLAND 

I 
ROSS iSLANOy 

BCLAN6ER ISLAN^ 
FLINT ISLAND^ 





78'ao' 



77*«o' 



GREAT TO LITTLE WHALE RIVER 159 

distance of two or three miles back from the 
sound. On the other side of the sound, a couple 
of miles distant, the almost continuous chain of 
islands stretches northward for twenty-five miles, 
presenting bold and rugged cliffs, towering hun- 
dreds of feet above us as we passed along almost 
at their base. The whole formed a sight inde- 
scribably grand and beautiful. 

By twelve o'clock, we had reached Schooner 
Opening. This is situated between two of the 
largest islands and is sufficiently deep and wide 
to allow a schooner to pass out to sea. 

Two hours later Boat Opening was reached near 
the northern end of the sound. In fact, there are 
two openings at this place, separated by a small 
but high island. We chose the first, thinking it 
the proper one, and ^got through safely, but the 
transparent water showed the rocks to be very 
close to the surface and that a passage at any 
other stage than high tide would be impossible. 

These openings are very dangerous to navigate 
when the full rush of the tide, incoming or out- 
going, is in progress. They are so narrow that, 
at such times, the water rushes through with 
great violence, so that it is practically impossible 
to propel a boat against it, and if going with the 
current, the countless eddies and cross currents 
make steering a rather hazardous undertaking. 

We had enjoyed the sail so much throughout 
the morning in the perfect protection of the sound, 



i6o IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

that we were loath to meet the dangers of the 
Opening and the open sea beyond. It was with 
a feeHng of thankfulness that we found our- 
selves safely through and in smooth water on the 
outside. 

From this "point to the Little Whale River, 
there are but few islands, and protection when 
required must be sought in the mouths of several 
small rivers which enter the Bay. The most pro- 
minent island between the Manitounuk Sound 
and the Nastapoka Sound is called Duck Island. 
It is a long, low island of drift, and lies about six 
miles offshore to the north-west of Boat Opening. 

To avoid passing the camp unobserved, we 
kept close to the shore and finally sighted tents 
at the mouth of Second River. When opposite 
these and still a mile out, we saw several men 
on the shore watching us and signalled them. 
Receiving no reply, we decided they must be 
Eskimos and proceeded on our course. Another 
look through the glass convinced us that the 
tents were ours, despite the fact that we did not 
recognize the men. Turning our boat towards the 
camp, the York boat anchored in the mouth of 
the river soon came in sight and established the 
identity of the party beyond doubt. In a few 
minutes, we entered the little harbour, well within 
the protection of the surrounding hills, and an- 
chored there. 

The Eskimo guide, who with his wife was 



GREAT TO LITTLE WHALE RIVER i6i 

accompanying the York boat, appeared at the 
top of the cKff, and with excited shouts and ges- 
ticulations tried to direct us to the proper channel. 
These we later found to be natives who were 
camped at the Nastapoka River during our visit 
to that place in 1907, the photograph of the man 
being used to illustrate the cover of the book which 
described that trip. 

We immediately went ashore and visited Mr. 
Strong at his camp, where the experiences of both 
parties were related and a council held to decide 
on the further procedure. 

It was expected that the York boat party would 
reach Clark Island by the middle of July, but the 
season had been so unfavourable, with storms, 
ice, and almost continuous head winds, that now, 
nearly a month later, the party was still sixty-five 
miles from its northern destination. 

It was finally arranged to take Mr. Strong and 
his assistant, Bennet, with us and proceed at once 
to Clark Island. It had been originally intended 
to break up the York boat party, leaving four of 
them at one of the rivers, and taking the rest to 
the island. It was then decided that the full 
force should go to Clark Island as soon as fair 
weather would permit. 

After having supper with Mr. Strong, we re- 
turned to the mouth of the river and pitched our 
tent on the sandy beach. To our delight, the 
mosquitoes were held in check by a fairly stiff 
II 



1 62 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

breeze blowing from the sea, and the camp was 
set up without much inconvenience. 

It was on this evening that one of the most 
annoying incidents, now considered a laughable 
one, took place. We had indulged freely in pork 
and beans for our supper, and as they were quite 
salty, soon became very thirsty. With probably 
an hour's hard work setting up the tent and getting 
our bedding and other paraphernalia ashore, on 
that very hot evening, our thirst was considerably 
intensified, so that by the time all was completed, 
we were quite ready to undertake a search for 
fresh water. 

The water at the mouth of the river, in the 
vicinity of the camp, was salt. The hunt was all 
in vain for nowhere was there a pool or spring of 
fresh water to be found on our side of the river. 

We were too thirsty to think of going to bed 
without quenching our thirst, and so decided to 
take the canoe and visit the other camp, hoping 
that they would have a supply of fresh water, 
or that they could, at least, tell us where to get 
some. 

Arriving there and finding everybody in bed 
and not a sound to be heard, we had to examine 
the kettles and buckets around the camp where 
the fresh water supply would likely be kept. 

On the stove was a large covered bucket, almost 
full of water. From this we filled our tea kettle 
and made a quick, but quiet, retreat to the canoe. 



GREAT TO LITTLE IVHALE RIVER 163 

Returning to the camp and drawing the canoe up 
the long, low beach and securing it there, we car- 
ried our much-prized kettle of water to the tent. 
Closing the flap and arranging the canopy, that 
our work might be completed before taking the 
much-needed drink, we grabbed cups, filled, raised 
them, and drank, but only one mouthful — it was 
sea water. 

Had we been children, no doubt we would have 
cried, the disappointment was so great. We 
were almost worn out, cheated out of our regular 
meals by the mosquitoes for several days, sleeping 
little at night (rising shortly after daylight on 
those long summer days and travelling until late), 
and now our thirst was so intense that to retire 
was impossible until a good long cold drink was 
obtained, no matter where the water was to be 
found. 

All that could be done was to take our canoe 
back down to the river and make a second trip 
to the other camp. This was done in total dark- 
ness. Arriving there, we searched in the dark for 
a vessel of fresh water, feeling certain that there 
must be one in the camp. We eventually got our 
hands on a pail of water, and after making sure 
this time that it was fresh, again filled our kettle 
and made our way back to the canoe. Soon the 
camp was reached with the booty, which meant 
more to us than if it had been a pot of gold. 

Next morning, the extra passengers were taken 



i64 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

aboard with their dunnage, increasing the load 
considerably. By eight o'clock a start was made 
facing a good stiff wind. The morning was bright, 
but seaward the sky was foggy, and we were in 
constant dread of it settling down around us, as 
there were but a couple of harbours between 
Second River and Little Whale River, and we 
would not have risked travelling along the coast 
in a fog. 

As Little Whale River was approached the 
long sloping hills, that extend several miles back 
from the sea, came in sight. Over some of these 
hills, on our former visit, we had one of the most 
tiresome walking experiences of our lives. On 
that occasion, leaving the camp at the foot of the 
big hill at the mouth of the river, in the early 
morning, we scaled the cliffs of two of the adjoin- 
ing hills to the south, and tramped through the 
intervening valleys, reaching our destination, 
the vertical cliff at the east side of the third hill, 
about two o'clock in the afternoon, two hours 
later than was expected. 

Not daring to prolong our stay beyond half an 
hour, we began the return journey by way of the 
Little Whale River valley, hoping to find easier 
travelling than over the rugged hills. The valley 
proved rough, full of gulches, and overgrown with 
underbrush. The experience was a most trying 
one, growing worse as the darkness overtook us. 
The dread of spending the night on the trail in 



GREAT TO LITTLE WHALE RIVER 165 

such a dreary country, without food or bed, 
spurred us on and helped to keep up our courage. 
At last we saw a light approaching us. It proved 
to be that of a lantern carried by a search party 
who met us while still about half a mile out. We 
eventually reached camp in an almost exhausted 
condition. 

The hills over which that memorable tramp 
was made begin with a gentle slope at the sea, 
and nm back to a height of a thousand feet, ending 
in an almost perpendicular cliff, facing inland. 

By eleven o'clock, we had reached the mouth 
of the Little Whale River, and the fog seemed to 
be settling down a short distance ahead of us. 
As we wished to cross to the island side of the 
sound, which begins but a few miles north of this 
river, it was decided to enter the river and await the 
passing of the fog. The Bay for a wide area in the 
vicinity of the river mouth is very shallow, so 
that navigation in a fog would be a rather serious 
undertaking. 

Owing to the breeze from the west opposing the 
combined river current and tide, there was a rough 
sea over the bar. However, we got safely across 
it and anchored opposite the site of the now de- 
serted Hudson's Bay Comipany's Post. 

After dinner, the fog still continued, and in 
consequence it was decided to wait over until the 
next day. A little later in the afternoon, the sun 
came out, so we crossed the river and scaled the 



1 66 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

cliffs on the north side. When the top of the 
first cliff was reached the sky had cleared, and 
the sea was sparkling in the warm sunlight, far 
out to where the fast retreating bank of fog 
obscured the horizon. 

We were then at the top of the cliff bordering 
the river opposite the camp. To the north, was 
an unobstructed view of the Nastapoka Islands 
and sound, and the high, rugged hills of Rich- 
mond Gulf. To the east, and towering several 
hundred feet above us, were the peaks of the hills 
we were then ascending and which present a per- 
pendicular cHff eastward from the highest point 
to the river below. 

These hills are formed by a giant tilting of the 
strata, the cliff face being a line of faulting. The 
lower strata, once horizontal, now tilted at an 
acute angle, dipping toward the sea, are of a light 
limestone, while the upper one is a flow of dark 
green columnal trap many feet in thickness. 

Pursuing our course upward, after making many 
detours, the highest point of the eastward cliff 
was eventually reached and before us lay the 
greatest panorama we had ever beheld. The 
scene was majestic. At our feet lay a plain, 
stretching for miles in all directions, surrounded 
by huge cliffs to the north, south, and west, and 
to the east by the great rounded granite hills of 
the Laurentian protaxis, worn smooth by the 
erosion of centuries, forming a great natural arena, 



GREAT TO LITTLE WHALE RIVER 167 

whose grandeur was well calculated to excite the 
awe and admiration of those who were so fortunate 
as to gaze upon it. 

From this point, to the right, our little craft 
could be seen, like a dot on the river below, the 
mast hardly discernible, the river flowing west- 
ward and winding like a silver thread amongst the 
evergreens of the plain. Here and there short 
stretches of rapids could be seen, while the descent 
of the river from the inland hills to the plain was 
marked by two falls, over which rose clouds of 
spray that vanished phantom like in the sunlight. 

Much as we had admired the view of the sound 
from the lower level, it seemed insignificant as we 
gazed on it from this higher elevation. We lin- 
gered long on this spot, from which, no matter in 
what direction one chose to turn, he could feast 
his eyes on scenes perhaps unsurpassed anywhere 
in Canada, outside of the Rockies. 

When privileged to view such scenery as that, 
no traveller can but feel amply repaid for any 
hardships he may have suffered in attaining that 
end. 

The entire afternoon was spent in going from 
peak to peak on the eastern end of these cliffs. 
As the sun was nearing the horizon, we returned 
to the cHff on the riverside opposite the camp, and 
began to make the last descent, when on the top 
of the hill, between us and the sea, a small party 
of Eskimos was seen, grouped together, looking 



1 68 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

down on us without any signs whatever of saluta- 
tion. Their unusual behaviour excited our sus- 
picion, the more so because we had been warned 
by one of the Factors, on our previous trip, to 
beware of unfriendly Eskimos in this vicinity. 
Some of these who were at that time camping by 
the Little Whale River had a reputation, it was 
said, that would have put them beyond the pale 
of the law had they been living in civilized parts. 

As these people made no advances such as are 
common to the Eskimos, we made no attempt to 
converse with them, and proceeded down to the 
riverside and our canoe, all the while keeping our 
eyes on the group above. When camp was 
reached, the Huskies were still gazing on us, and 
to show them we could defend ourselves, if it were 
necessary, some of the firearms were discharged. 
That night we slept with our guns close beside us. 

As soon as supper was over it was decided to 
shift our quarters and to do so we had to carry 
the outfit through a long stretch of scrub willow. 
The task was an arduous one, and as the wind 
and sun had gone down, the mosquitoes again be- 
came active. 

All hands turned in to help. Bennet volun- 
teered to take part of the stuff in the canoe in 
preference to carrying it through the willows. 
Among other articles, he undertook to move the 
kitchen, which, by the way, had been thoroughly 
cleaned out and everything put back in apple-pie 



GREAT TO LITTLE WHALE RIVER 169 

order that day. Knowing that there were articles 
of food which would come to grief should they 
be upset, the young man was cautioned to keep the 
box right side up with care. That he did not 
adhere strictly to our caution was abundantly 
proven afterward by a jumbled mass of cutlery, 
food, and granite ware, all firmly adhering together 
through the agency of golden syrup, a can of which 
had been completely upturned. 

The labour of restoring order in the kitchen was 
discouraging enough in itself, but when it was 
found that the only salt in the camp had been 
thoroughly saturated with the sweet liquid, it was 
with difficulty we refrained from giving the lad 
a ducking in the river. 

On the same spot and with the same pegs that 
were used five years before, we put up our tent, 
the rest of the party preferring to use a portion of 
one of the old buildings, rather than take the 
trouble of putting up their tent. Before they 
got the place mosquito proof, it had cost them 
a great deal more effort than it would have, had 
they set up camp in the usual manner. 

It was the understanding that night that we 
would rise specially early the next morning. Con- 
sequently, we were alert at an early hour, but 
the kitchen had to be cleaned before breakfast 
was prepared, and this, as any good housewife 
would know, caused quite a delay. 




CHAPTER Xni 
ClarK Island 

HE day was beautiful and bright, 
and in the early morning there 
was not even a breeze blowing. 
By the time we had the extra work 
completed and everything in the 
boat, it was nearly eight o'clock. The tide had 
started to go out, so we had the full force of the 
current with us. As we approached the mouth 
of the river and could get a good view of the sea, 
it was apparent that the effect of the wind of the 
day before was still in evidence by enormous swells 
which were outlined against the sky line. 

When the bar at the mouth of the river was 
reached and we came into contact with the swells, 
the experience almost paralyzed us, for it seemed 
impossible to escape being completely overwhelmed 
by the huge rollers that constantly beset us. We 
soon found that, by proper quartering, the boat 
could safely ride them, and gradually began to 
enjoy the sensation. 

Despite the troubled condition of the water, 
we put right out toward Flint Island, the first 
of the Nastapoka group, situated about five or 

170 



CLARK ISLAND 171 

six miles from the mainland. When about half- 
way across, the condition of the weather being 
imchanged, it seemed safe to direct our course 
from Flint to Ross Island, the second of the group. 
By the time the opening between the two islands 
was reached, the wind had risen and a heavy sea 
was running. It was not long, however, until we 
had gotten into the protection of the high cliffs 
of Ross Island, and as the soimd was then crossed 
and the rest of the journey would lie principally 
in the shelter of high islands with good harbours, 
there was little or nothing to fear. 

The general physical characteristics of the 
islands of the sound are of the same nature as 
those of the Manitounuk group. They present 
a bold face to the sound and dip gently westward 
toward the sea, while the mainland presents the 
same appearance as that in the vicinity of the 
Little 'V\niale River, but gradually becomes higher 
as Richmond Gulf is approached. 

Geologically, the islands are very different from 
those of Manitounuk Sound, the strata of the 
former consisting of silicious iron ore and jasper 
beds instead of the trap flow and limestone of the 
latter. 

We had contemplated calling at Flint and 
Belanger Islands on the way up, but the travelling 
in the lee of the islands was temptingly fine and 
the experience of sailing along the shores of these 
pictiiresque islands was so enticing, that we en- 



172 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

tirely ignored our former plans and pushed 
ahead. 

Anderson Island, the fourth of the group and 
probably the highest, was passed. Next came 
Luttit, a small, low island, and then, after an open 
stretch of five miles, we at last entered the protec- 
tion of our northern objective, Clark Island. 

As we approached the northern end of Clark 
Island, the old camp ground back of Teresa 
Island appeared, and swinging around its northern 
end, the safe little harbour came into view. Pro- 
ceeding into it, we came up alongside the great 
ledges of iron ore and jasper, stopped the engine, 
and announced to our passengers that this was 
Clark Island and that they were at the end of 
their northward journey. 

Mr. Strong's party left Rupert House on the 
fifth of July, and on this day, the twelfth of August, 
but two of them had arrived at Clark Island. 
In all, he had spent thirty-eight days on the jour- 
ney over a course which, in the weather of ordi- 
nary seasons, would have required only from 
twelve to fourteen days with a similar boat. 

All hands were soon busy unloading the equip- 
ment into the canoe and preparing to land. After 
several trips had been made back and forth to 
shore, the boat was taken out to deep water and 
anchored. 

A place for the tents was selected after we had 
prepared our midday meal. There was no possi- 



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CLARK ISLAND 173 

bility of using tent pegs here, for we were practi- 
cally on the bare rock, there being but a thin 
covering of white Arctic moss. It was therefore 
necessary to use the largest boulders that could 
be rolled over to the tents, around which to tie the 
guy ropes. In addition to these, other boulders 
were placed inside around the wall of the tent, 
which had been drawn down for the purpose. 
We had never taken as much trouble to put the 
tents up securely as on this day, for in its impro- 
tected position, the camp would be exposed to the 
full violence of the wind blowing up and down the 
sound, the best place in which to be in mosquito 
weather, but very precarious in time of storm. 

An examination of the south end of the island 
was made on the first afternoon, and on the fol- 
lowing day the remaining portions were visited. 
As on the other islands, the strata are more or 
less silicious. The beds are nearly parallel, and 
dip gently toward the sea on the west, while to 
the east and south they present bold step-like 
cliffs. Between great beds of jaspilyte rich in 
iron, lie the hematite beds, which contain a vast 
quantity of ore. The area of the island is ap- 
proximately three thousand acres. 

We were destined again to be tormented by the 
mosquitoes. On our previous visit they were a 
thing practically imknown to us, and it did not 
seem possible on an island so far removed from 
the mainland, and on which there was practically 



174 W CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

no vegetation, to find such vast swarms of them. 
We were compelled again to eat under the canopy. 

On the afternoon of the second day the sky 
became overcast and the wind rose. As our cooking 
was' still done over an open fire, supper was hastily 
prepared so that an early retreat might be made 
to the kindly protection of the canvas domiciles 
in case the storm grew violent. 

'By midnight the storm had reached large pro- 
portions and the flapping of the tent in the wind 
as well as the booming of the surf against the foot 
of the cliffs made it impossible to sleep. We 
arose, dressed partially, and went out to see if the 
boat was still safe at her moorings, and to further 
secure the tent, which it seemed might be carried 
into the sea at any moment. The boat was found 
to be riding the waves buoyantly and the anchor 
holding staunchly. We again retired to get 
such sleep as might be possible amid the noise 
of the storm. 

Shortly after our return to bed, the dining tent, 
which was well stocked with food, kettles, and 
dishes, was carried from its position and landed 
with a crash against the end of our tent, one of 
the occupants escaping by only a few inches from 
being struck by the falling ridgepole. This was 
followed by a general distribution of the cooking 
utensils, plates, cups, and cutlery over the sur- 
rounding rocks, down the cliff nearby, and some 
of them into the sea. 



CLARK ISLAND 175 

By this time matters began to look somewhat 
serious. A fresh supply of stones was laid on the 
sides of our tent, as it was beginning to loosen, 
and it was feared that it also might soon collapse. 
One of us dressed fully and, going out, made a 
search for the dishes over the rocks. It was rain- 
ing hard and the first traces of daylight were 
noticeable. All that could be found of the scat- 
tered dishes were collected and placed imder the 
fallen tent and the latter weighted down with 
stones. While this was being done, the other 
took advantage of the security offered by the 
man outside, and had a nap. 

Everything again put in order, the man on the 
outside returned to the tent, and unheeding the 
advice of the other to return to bed, stretched 
himself on the canvas floor cloth without un- 
dressing, hoping to get a nap also. As will be 
seen by what followed, he had no cause whatever 
to regret having refused his friend's advice. 

Suddenly, without even a moment's notice, 
the wind with pent-up force struck the tent. 
Snap went the ropes and down came the ridge- 
pole on the unhappy occupant of the bed. The 
other man hastily crawled out, raised the pole, 
and held the tent up a couple of feet so that 
the latter might have a chance to get into his 
clothes. 

This was not the most pleasant experience we 
ever had. It was pouring down rain on the man 



176 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

outside, and the other, inside, was getting the 
full benefit of the wet canvas tent, as he strove to 
get from his night into his day clothes. As he 
remarked at the time, "things are never so bad 
but they might be worse," and in the spirit of 
this adage the troubles of the moment were for- 
gotten and, spreading the fallen tent carefully 
over our belongings, we set to work and piled 
stones around the edges to prevent it and all 
that was underneath from being carried into the 
sea. 

While our spirits were not at all dampened, 
there was no doubt at all about our clothing, and 
we must have presented a sorry picture in the 
dim morning light, darker by reason of the heavy, 
low, storm clouds, as we strove to save our few 
earthly possessions. 

The rain was coming down in sheets and, driven 
by the force of the wind, stung our faces and hands 
as if they were being hit by peas from a blower. 
We were not often found unprotected from the 
elements, for as a rule due precautions were 
taken to keep ourselves warm and dry, but on 
this occasion our oilskins had unfortunately been 
left in the boat and we had to suffer accordingly. 
We recognized the fact that, as a punishment 
for our carelessness, the drenching was well 
deserved. 

We were not the only ones to suffer from the 
fury of the storm for, although they succeeded 



CLARK ISLAND 177 

in preventing the entire collapse of their tent, 
Strong and Bennet were up and down the most 
of the night attaining that end. Mac's tent 
had stayed up thus far, seemingly by a miraculous 
Providence, for he had apparently slept soundly 
through it all. 

The climax of our affairs must have occurred 
about three o'clock in the morning, but, in the 
excitement of the moment, the passing of time 
was not taken into account, and as a result we 
only remember it was a long time before broad 
daylight came. For some time we wandered 
about like lost sheep, looking for a place sufficiently 
sheltered to enable us to raise the tent, or even 
get protection for ourselves, but neither could be 
found. 

Finally, about ten o'clock, it was decided to 
try setting up the small cook tent in the lee of 
Strong's tent, as a last resort. By dint of hard 
work, we managed to get it up firmly and then 
began to bring the valuables from under the 
fallen tent into the safety of the new one. 

While thus moving under difficulties, another 
incident occurred to relieve the monotony of Hfe. 
One of us was stooping over the fallen tent, re- 
moving some of the stuff, when a sudden puff of 
wind lifted Mac's tent, poles and all, from its 
moorings and carried it nearly a hundred feet 
away, over the head of the man at the fallen tent, 
and almost over the cliff and into the sea. The 

12 



178 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

shock which he got was no greater than that re- 
ceived by the sleeping Mac, who sat bolt-upright 
in his blankets and looked around him, seemingly 
bewildered and unable to comprehend the exact 
meaning of the disturbance. 

When all our belongings had been brought into 
the tent, we wrapped up in our blankets and lay 
down for a short nap. We were not to rest 
quietly for long, as Bennet rushed up soon 
after and informed us that the boat had dragged 
its anchor, and was now adrift and heading for 
the rocks on the other side of the harbour. We 
hastily turned out and after some difficulty suc- 
ceeded in arousing Mac. He was sleeping again 
under his tent, which he had spread out over 
some short sticks and weighted down with 
stones. 

All hands got into the canoe and finally managed 
to reach the boat, which by this time was in 
shallow water on the opposite side of the harbour. 
Starting up the engine, we faced the wind, and 
when in deep water again anchored the boat, and 
returned to the shore in the canoe by dint of 
hard paddling. We had only been a couple of 
minutes in camp, when the boat again began to 
drift. The difficulty was now clear; the tide was 
so high, because of the north winds, that the water 
was too deep for the length of anchor rope which 
we had provided, and consequently the anchor 
could not take hold. Again capturing the truant, 



CLARK ISLAND 179 

we beached her on a gravelly spot, where we knew 
she would be safe. 

By this time the rain had ceased, but the wind, 
if changed at all, was stronger. The view of the 
sea from the cliffs was certainly awe inspiring. 
Great waves were furiously lashing the foot of 
the cliffs, while off the shallower points, huge 
breakers dashed over the rocks and hurled spray 
high in the air. That these breakers were very 
large was shown from the fact that we could see 
them quite distinctly as they broke over the point 
of Gillies Island, five miles away. The high winds 
served us well in drying out the blankets that 
had been wet during the rainstorm. 

As it was impossible to do any cooking outside, 
we put up the stove late in the afternoon and pre- 
pared a big supper of pancakes. This was the 
first food we had partaken of that day, and, 
needless to say, it was heartily appreciated, as 
was the coziness of the warm, dry tent, and an 
opportunity to discuss the events of the storm 
under favourable circumstances. The wind 
lasted three days, and during that time our work 
was accomplished under many difficulties. 

On the following Saturday, the rest of Strong's 
party arrived in the York boat. The cook, while 
attending to his duties, noticed the boat approach- 
ing the island and steering straight toward a reef, 
which connects Teresa to Clark Island, thus 
forming the harbour. The tide was high at the 



i8o IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

time and the reef was not visible, consequently 
the man at the helm was not to blame. By signals, 
they were made to understand that they were sail- 
ing into dangerous waters, and by the same means 
were shown the proper way to enter the harbour. 

It was quite a village of tents when the men 
were finally settled in camp, there being seven in 
all. Remembering the experiences of a few days 
before, we warned the men to set up their tents 
securely, and they had reason to be thankful for 
the precautions taken. 

On the following day, we were awakened at an 
early hour by the sound of driving rain, sleet, and 
snow on the tent. On looking out, we saw, for 
the first time in our experience, the ground covered 
with a blanket of heavy, wet snow on an August 
morning. To add to the dismal picture, the snow 
was clinging to the tents in a manner that made 
them look almost like Eskimo igloos. 

Toward noon, the storm shifted from a southerly 
to an easterly "direction and the snow changed to 
rain. For a few minutes, during the afternoon, 
the sun came out and gave us a magnificent view 
of the high hilltops around Richmond Gulf, snow- 
capped and glistening in the evening sunlight, 
against a background of angry, leaden clouds, 
which overhung the gulf. This proved but a 
passing picture, for soon the clouds lowered and 
again gave it the appearance of a wintry clime. 

The view from our tent was a wild one, as the 



CLARK ISLAND i8i 

great waves ended in huge breakers, hurling 
spray high into the air at the end of Teresa Island. 
The sky cleared about sunset, leaving only the 
wind and the angry sea outside to remind us of 
the storm. 



CHAPTER XIV 



NastapoKa River 



ir i^ ^ g nl ]^ Tuesday afternoon it was decided 
that if the day following were a 
good one, our own little party 
would start northward for the 
Nastapoka River. Consequently 
the boat had to be gotten off the beach and into 
the water. As the sea at high tide, in the prevail- 
ing calm, did not reach the boat, it was necessary 
to assemble all the men to get it launched. Once 
in the water and anchored, the boat was loaded 
with the supplies, many of which had to be replen- 
ished from the stores on the York boat. 

When we arose the next morning, the sound 
was so thick with fog it was impossible to see the 
mainland, but when breakfast was over the mist 
showed signs of lifting. On the improvement of 
the weather the dunnage was immediately packed 
and taken to the boat, and at a quarter to eleven 
o'clock we pulled out of the harbour despite the 
fact that the fog was still thick and there was a 
stiff head wind. It was pretty certain that the 
wind would make continued serious fog conditions 
impossible. 

182 



NASTAPOKA RIVER 183 

Despite the unfavourable outlook, we felt quite 
secure in undertaking the journey, knowing there 
were many safe harbours along our course on the 
island side of the sound. The run from Clark 
to Gillies Island and that across the sound from 
Miller Island to the mouth of the Nastapoka 
River were the only exposed portions of the route. 

We had heard tales at the Posts of dangers en- 
countered the year previous by another party going 
over the same course, but having been over it 
before and knowing the locations of the harbours, 
feared but little the consequences of a storm. 
The course lay along the shores of Gillies and Tay- 
lor islands, which resemble Clark in form and 
structure, but the cliffs of which are not so high, 
while the area of Gillies is much greater. The 
islands between Taylor and the Nastapoka River 
are small, but bear the same general characteristics 
as those already described. 

When Miller Island was reached the sound was 
crossed in the direction of the Nastapoka River. 
When opposite Gordon Island and about six miles 
from the mouth of the river, the first view of the 
falls was obtained. Only the crest was showing 
in a notch high up amongst the old granite hills, 
resembHng a snowbank on the hillside, but over 
it hung a cloud of mist, which at first sight 
appeared to be smoke. 

At the mouth of the river there is a sandbar 
which extends out for a mile or more and it is 



1 84 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

necessary to enter the channel of the river out 
beyond this point. This fact was remembered 
from the last visit, and no difficulty was experi- 
enced in getting into the river. Ascending it 
for about" half a mile, the boat was beached on 
the sandy shore at the foot of the hill, a little to 
the south of the falls. Here we camped in the 
entrance of a large ravine extending into the 
plateau, which borders the river. 

This, aside from that at Conjuring House, was 
the most picturesque camping place of the entire 
trip. The tents were pitched on the sand at the 
foot of a steep hill of clay, gravel, and sand, and 
beside an outcrop of rock about twenty feet high. 
To the east lay the ravine, the hillsides continu- 
ally moistened by the spray from the falls and 
clothed in a garb of the most beautiful green grass, 
the like of which could hardly be found but on 
the shores of the Emerald Isle. To the north 
was the Nastapoka Falls with its drop of, approx- 
imately, one hundred and seventy feet, one of 
the most beautiful in Canada, whose never-ceasing 
roar, softened by the distance, lulled us to sleep 
at the close of the day, and welcomed us on our 
awakening at the coming of the morn. 

It was five o'clock in the afternoon when we 
reached the foot of the falls, and by the time the 
camp was set up and the supper cooked and eaten, 
it was time to retire. 

It was impossible to have an open fire as the 




to 

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NASTAPOKA RIVER 185 

wood appeared to be very scarce, and it could be 
made to last much longer by using it in the stove. 
All that was to be seen were a few small scraps 
of driftwood, chiefly willows. These were broken 
into pieces about a foot long and ranged from a 
quarter of an inch, to an inch in thickness. Be- 
fore retiring for the night, we gathered several 
bucketfuls for the morning fire, intending to make 
a thorough search for wood the next day. 

The following day was a perfect one; the sun 
shone brightly and there was but a gentle breeze. 
We were up early, anxious to see the falls in the 
morning sunlight. 

As soon as we were out of bed, before waiting 
to do anything towards preparing breakfast, we 
hastened off to the foot of the falls. The wind, 
which on the previous afternoon had driven the 
spray back into the gorge, making it impossible 
to see the falls from below, had now changed. 
We found, however, that the volume of spray was 
so great as to completely fill the narrow chasm 
and hide the foot of the falls, no matter in what 
direction the wind blew. 

Having had information of a supposed deposit 
of ore on the mainland at this point, the morning 
was spent in prospecting the neighbourhood, but 
without success, for nowhere was there any ex- 
posure of rock except granite or gneiss. 

As the afternoon was bright and sunny, it was 
spent in examining and photographing the power 



186 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

site. The total fall, according to Mr. A. P. 
Low, is about one hundred and seventy feet, 
and is made up of three chutes and intermediate 
rapids and a direct fall of one hundred and twenty- 
five feet. Flowing smoothly but swiftly, the 
river emerges from its valley amongst the granite 
hills into a quiet basin, bordered on the north 
side by steep hills and on the other by a level 
sandy plateau, at an elevation of about twenty- 
five feet above the water, extending to the south- 
east for several miles, following the base of a 
range of smooth, rocky hills, running in that 
direction. 

From the north end of the basin, the water 
plunges over a chute with a drop of about fifteen 
feet. This is followed by a rapid of about two 
hundred and fifty feet in length, terminating in 
a chute with a fall of twenty feet. The river 
then turns westward and runs smoothly for five 
hundred feet, then plunges over a chute with a 
fall of ten feet, continuing from thence a distance 
of one thousand feet in a heavy rapid to the last 
fall. 

The main or last fall drops into a narrow^ verti- 
cal walled canon, which echoes and re-echoes the 
thundering of the water, until it reaches mighty 
proportions. Through the cafion the water rushes 
in a tumultuous rapid until it loses its force in the 
quiet of the little tidal bay near the mouth of the 
river, which formed the harbour for our craft. 



NASTAPOKA RIVER 187 

From the cliffs on the north side of the river, a 
magnificent view of the falls and the camp was 
obtained. The white tents snugly nestling at 
the foot of the beautiful, green hills, with the 
little boat in the foreground, completed a pic- 
ture of peaceful security well worthy to be 
classed with the vales of vSwitzerland or the fjords 
of Norway. 

We had not seen the moon, owing to the per- 
sistence of cloudy weather during its periods, since 
leaving the Missinaibi River, until the second 
night of our stay at the Nastapoka River. Seeing 
its light through the tent, that night, we rushed 
out to see it and welcomed it as an old friend. 

The fine weather was not to last long, for we 
were awakened early the next morning by the 
wind and the patter of rain on the tent. The 
camp watch was out of order, as we found later, 
so arising at six o'clock, as we supposed, that 
morning, it was really eight. We did as much of 
our work as could be done indoors and retired 
early, for the cold, damp day required the keeping 
of a fire as long as we stayed up, and the drift- 
wood that had been collected, being so light and 
inflammable, was nearly depleted as well as the 
nearby source of supply. 

The weather continued stormy for the rest of 
the week and did not clear up until the evening 
of the following Monday. This necessitated the 
prolonging of our stay at Nastapoka far longer than 



1 88 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

we had anticipated, but we had plenty of work 
to occupy our time. 

By Saturday morning there was only enough 
wood left to cook the breakfast, that on the neigh- 
bouring beach being exhausted. There was now 
no other hope of supply save from the beach along 
the sea, about half a mile down the river. The 
wind, blowing hard directly up the river, was 
causing a heavy sea, which, in addition to the 
force of the water from the rapids above, made it 
a difficult undertaking to reach the mouth of 
the river by canoe. However, the canoe was the 
only means of getting the wood to camp, for the 
riverside was bordered by high hills, over which 
it would be impossible to carry a load. 

As it was absolutely necessary that wood should 
be found, it was decided to make an attempt to 
reach the river mouth by canoe. To avoid cross- 
ing the river the south shore was followed. The 
trip was made safely by dint of hard work and 
careful manoeuvring, but proved disappointing 
after all, for the Eskimos, the remains of whose 
many camps were seen in the neighbourhood, had 
left the place practically devoid of driftwood. 
What was gotten was very little good, but there 
was sufficient to last until the next day. 

On Sunday the wind moderated, making it 
possible to cross the river. We did so, andSi after 
scouting the beach for nearly two miles, obtained 
sufficient wood to last until the camp was broken up. 



"... a picture of peaceful security. ..." 




Chutes above the Nastapoka Falls 



\ 



NASTAPOKA RIVER 189 

During the gale on Friday, the boat, which 
had been beached, bow on, was driven side on 
to the beach. In endeavouring to pull it around 
and make it fast, the anchor, which was made of 
cast iron, was broken. 

On Monday afternoon, in preparation for our 
return to Clark Island, we launched the boat 
and anchored it with a large stone. The stone 
was carried out on a board placed across the end 
of the canoe, from which position it was dumped 
into the water, fortunately without upsetting the 
unsteady craft. 

A farewell visit to the top of the falls was made. 
We lingered long, enjoying the magnificent view 
from the crest looking out toward the large ex- 
panse of water and the islands of the Nastapoka 
Sound. 

For a time we sat at the very edge of the preci- 
pice, where we could put our hands into the foam- 
ing water as it made the plunge into the chasm 
below. At other times we were showered with 
spray, as a large wave was hurled with extra force 
against the rock at the brink of the falls from the 
surging rapid above. 

Again we climbed still higher up and took a 
last view of the great sand plain beyond. From 
this lofty position, we hastily retraced our steps 
to the camp, for as the breeze had died down, the 
mosquitoes appeared in full force, for the first 
time since our arrival. 



190 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Being tired of the diet of pancakes and Austra- 
lian beef, it was suggested that an attempt be 
made to procure some fresh fish. From previous 
experience, it was known that there were salmon 
trout in plenty in the rapids at the foot of the 
falls. It was then late in the afternoon, so no 
time was lost in procuring our fishing tackle from 
the tent and trying our luck from the stern of the 
boat and an adjacent rock. 

Almost immediately one landed a fine salmon 
trout large enough to make a fair meal for the 
party. The other drew out a good specimen 
later, but unfortunately it dropped from the hook 
to a slippery rock and flopped back into the water, 
a great disappointment indeed to the angler. 

Much of the outfit was carried to the boat that 
night, so that there would be less to do in the 
morning. 

According to our timekeeper, we were up at a 
quarter to four the next morning, and ready to 
leave at seven o'clock. The shore of the little 
bay on which the camp was located was ankle 
deep with sand, and it had gotten into the food, 
clothing, bedding, and other equipment. It took 
a long time to get everything free of it and hence 
our delay. 

The sky was overcast and there was a light 
breeze blowing from the west, but having been 
delayed so long, it was thought best to make a 
start, even though a harbour only across the 



NASTAPOKA RIVER 191 

sound was reached. Havi;Qg started, we were 
anxious to reach our destination that day, for 
being without an anchor, it would be necessary 
to beach the boat if a stop were made. This 
was one of the things that it 'was most necessary 
to avoid, as there was always the danger of getting 
the boat carried too high or the beach by the 
storm tide, and our crew, so f'W in number, being 
imable to launch it in calm wc?jther. 

We had barely crossed the sound and gotten 
partially into the shelter of tKe islands, when the 
wind veered to the north and stiffened considerably, 
but it was behind us, so we were able to make use 
of one of the sails, and went along at a high rate 
of speed. The sea became very rough after we 
passed the south end of Gillies Island, and entered 
the unprotected opening between that and Clark. 
There we had one of our most exciting experiences. 
The waves had grown very boisterous and the 
canoe was being tossed roughly, rushing ahead in 
the trough of the wave, then halting as it rose to 
the crest. Since its motion was not in harmony 
with that of the boat towing it, a great strain on 
the tow line was the result. Finally the rope 
snapped and the canoe, with its load of bedding, 
kitchen, stove, and tents, was adrift and being 
tossed helplessly about. 

Now came the exciting moment. If the canoe 
was to be rescued it was necessary to retrace our 
course in the face of the gale. This was decided 



192 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 



on quickly, the sail w as released, and around the 
boat was turned, during which movement it 
seemed as though e;ery time we went into the 
trough of the waver the little boat would be en- 
gulfed. Turn after 'turn had to be made before 
the truant canoe C(;^uld be approached and cap- 
tured. After a veiy trying and dangerous expe- 
rience she was madiP fast and we continued on our 
course. ,<< 

We had not gone far when the tow line broke 
again and the canoe was carried high over the 
tossing waves. A);ain we turned in our course, 
and after much difficult manoeuvring secured and 
made it fast with a much larger and stronger rope. 

Still, at least, two or three miles off Clark Island, 
we began to wonder if a place of safety could be 
reached before the sea grew heavy enough to 
swamp us. Steadily the little boat rode the waves 
and each moment v/e were getting nearer safety. 
Presently we got into the lee of Armstrong Island, 
a small one north of Clark. The effect on the 
sea was quite noticeable and was a source of much 
relief to the anxious crew. 

The harbour of Clark Island was reached about 
three o'clock in the afternoon, and after the boat 
was unloaded, she was beached. Camp was set 
up near the water, so that it w^ould be convenient 
for preparing the boat and supplies for the return 
trip. 

There was still some work to be done on Clark 



NASTAPOKA RIVER 193 

and the two smaller islands between it and Gillies, 
Armstrong, and Curran. We attended to this as 
soon as possible in order that the return journey 
might not be delayed. 

Much of the weather, meantime, was damp, 
and a drizzling rain fell almost every day. How- 
ever, it was not cool enough to subdue the mosqui- 
toes, which were still very active. They were so 
bad, in fact, that one day the drill men had to 
cease work and take refuge in the protection of 
their canopies. 

One thing was observed particularly in regard 
to the weather conditions. Most of the "dirty'* 
storms (drizzling rain and fog) seemed to ema- 
nate from clouds that constantly hung over Rich- 
mond Gulf, which, when driven by the offshore 
winds out over the Bay, discharged their moisture 
there. This we think was largely due to the con- 
tact between the warm water from the inland 
rivers, which is concentrated in the gulf, and the 
cooler air from over the Bay, thus causing the 

formation of vapour. 
13 



CHAPTER XV 



ClarK Island to Great WKale River 




UR work was completed, as we anti- 
cipated, on the evening of Saturday, 
August the thirty-first. In the 
meantime, Mac had completely 
overhauled the boat and engine 
and the blacksmith had devised an anchor from 
the only available material, viz., two pick mat- 
tocks placed at right angles to each other on one 
handle. This was thoroughly tested on some of 
oiu* trips in the neighbourhood, and its holding 
power proved equal to, if not greater than, that 
of our former anchor. 

On Monday morning, September the second, 
we were up at half past three, and preparing to 
start on our homeward journey. It was still 
dark outside, save for the pale light of the moon, 
which at times shone through the thin vapoury 
clouds that were scudding across the sky. 

Without awakening the camp, we loaded oiu: 

last canoeful of outfit, and slipping silently out 

to the boat, transferred the load into it, weighed 

anchor, and sailed quietly out of the harbour. 

By this time there was a slight wind blowing 

194 




The Main Hematite Bed, Clark Island 




The Cliffs and Flats, Clark Island 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 195 

from the south-east, and as was our usual luck, 
it freshened almost immediately and a heavy sea 
was soon rolling. The direction from which this 
wind was blowing made it nearly dead against us, 
and in consequence we were soon taking large 
quantities of water as spray from the waves 
which were constantly breaking over our bow. 
In fact, several large waves struck the man at 
the wheel with such force as to knock him off 
his feet. 

We had planned so eagerly to make a quick 
return trip, it seemed hard to go into shelter so 
soon, but we realized that despite the efficient 
protection of the canvas boat cover, the water 
then being shipped would soon ruin the provisions, 
of which there was now only a very limited supply. 
Still more serious was the danger of losing the 
canoe, so we concluded the proper thing to do was 
to cross to the mainland side and seek protection 
in Salmon Fisher's Cove. This necessitated a 
cut of about ten miles across open water. 

To swing the boat around toward the cove was 
to bring it dead into the wind, and in order to 
quarter the waves as they came rolling up toward 
us, it was necessary at times to throw the boat 
out of her course, consequently slow progress was 
made toward the cove. The storm gradually 
grew in violence and we were very fortunate in 
getting into the protection of the harbour as soon 
as we did, shortly after eight o'clock. 



196 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

It was not without considerable disappointment 
that we were compelled to anchor so soon. Hav- 
ing gotten such an early start, it had been hoped 
to make the day's run a record one, but the cir- 
cumstances which followed amply compensated 
us for our disappointment. 

Barely had we finished setting up camp on a 
grassy spot, in the protection of some high rocks, 
when a heavy rain set in and continued with but 
slight intermission throughout the day. 

The boat was anchored in just enough water 
to keep her afloat at low tide, but since the wind 
was offshore, the sea was quite calm in the cove. 
That such quietude did not prevail outside was 
amply verified from the crest of a high granite 
hill which lay between the camp and the sea. In 
fact, it was but a repetition of the storm that had 
occurred after our arrival at Clark Island. 

On awakening the next morning, it was found 
that the wind had veered to the south-west, the 
least protected quarter of the cove, and huge 
breakers were rolling up the beach. The boat 
was tossing heavily and many of the large waves 
broke over her, the water being too shallow to 
admit of her riding them. 

After breakfast, two of the party launched the 
canoe in the surf and paddled out to the boat. 
It was a novel experience, for the breakers were 
large and many boulders were scattered over the 
beach, promising disaster if control of the craft 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 197 

was lost, but they managed to reach the boat 
without mishap, save a drenching. 

Boarding the boat was not so easy, for it seemed 
never to be on the crest of a wave at the same time 
as the canoe. Finally as one, crouching low in 
the bow of the canoe, clung tenaciously to the 
boat, the other watched for a favourable oppor- 
tunity and then sprang to the side of it, luckily 
obtaining a secure footing. 

A foot of water, which they found in the stern, 
was bucketed and pumped out until it was lower 
than the floor boards, when the craft was on an 
even keel, a condition which could only be imagined 
and not actually seen. 

The cash, films, and valuable papers were pro- 
cured and a start made for the shore. The sea 
was so rough, it was impossible to bring the heavy 
foodstuffs with them. The return trip was cer- 
tainly not lacking in excitement and they barely 
escaped disaster. Running the surf before the 
stiff wind, a big wave caught and carried them 
forward, almost dropping them on top of a large 
boulder. It all occurred so quickly that they 
found themselves high up on the beach before 
fully realizing what had happened. 

The storm continued all day, and about four 
o'clock the boat was again visited. The breakers 
had been particularly heavy all afternoon, espe- 
cially at low tide, and so many had broken over 
her that the iron hoop, supporting the boat cover 



198 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

at the bow, was completely battered down and a 
large opening left into which the water had been 
pouring. The stern was again found to be full 
of water and was pumped out. The provisions 
in camp were running low so it was necessary to 
bring some ashore, if at all possible, and also 
clothing to provide a dry change when they 
returned to camp. 

One got into the bow of the canoe and held it 
close alongside the boat while the other watched 
for the opportune moment at which to drop the 
various parcels into it. It really seemed as if 
this was the signal for renewed activity of the 
sea, for half a dozen or more waves broke succes- 
sively over the bow of the canoe, drenching its 
unlucky occupant and nearly swamping it. Like 
drowned rats, they reached the shore and the 
balance of the day was spent in drying out 
the clothes and food they had brought with 
them. 

Before dark, the boat turned completely around, 
grounded as the tide went down, and began to 
take the waves stern on, in which position she 
would soon have swamped. A large coil of rope 
was procured and attached to the bow, the other 
end being carried over the high rock that bordered 
the cove, to a point facing the sea, and there by 
dint of hard pulling the boat was hauled around 
and made fast in safer water. This was really a 
nasty job, as we stumbled over the rocks in the 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 199 

pitchy darkness of the night, and there was more 
than one bruised and barked shin exhibited upon 
the return to the camp. 

The next morning was beautifully bright and 
clear, and the wind, although still from the same 
quarter, was much diminished, but the sea was 
far too rough for travelling. As this was the third 
day of the storm, it was hoped that conditions 
would improve and that it would be possible to 
leave in the afternoon. Preparations were made 
accordingly, but the sea continued too boisterous 
for travelling, making it necessary to wait over 
until the next morning. 

This gave us an excellent opportunity to visit 
the Richmond Gulf, which we believed to be not 
more than eight or ten miles inland. We pre- 
pared anyway for a good long walk, and went just 
as light as possible. We had noticed that the 
gentle grassy slope which began at the beach of 
Salmon Fisher's Cove extended in a north-easterly 
direction between two parallel ranges of trap hills, 
the cliffs of which rose high on either side. It 
was decided to follow this pass as far as possible. 
The walking proved very good, for the slope was 
gradual and the sandy soil was carpeted with 
short grass and moss. 

Here and there along the way were small clumps 
of gnarled spruce, scarcely twelve feet in height 
and five to six inches at the butt. Their twisted 
forms told of the struggle for existence in the 



200 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

northern clime, for this is virtually the tree limit 
on the East Coast. The farther inland one goes, 
the farther northward the tree limit is found to 
extend, until it emerges on the southern shore of 
Ungava Bay. 

The summit of the slope we were traversing 
was attained about two miles from the sea. As 
it was approached, a well-marked trail was found 
leading in the same direction as we were going, 
undoubtedly made by the Eskimos who inhabit 
the country surrounding the gulf. 

At this summit, a sight met our eyes which 
was not only picturesque, but grand. Beyond 
us about a mile, the gentle slope ended on the 
shores of a most charming lake, bordered on all 
sides by high hills, those to the south and east, 
of trap, rising with steep slopes, those to the 
north and west rising as vertical cliffs, a continua- 
tion of the range to the north of the pass through 
which the trail led. 

The hills and cliffs were undoubtedly from five 
to seven hundred feet high, and down them rushed 
many little torrents, winding like silver threads 
against the dark background of trap. 

The trail led down through the valley to the 
lake and then turned to the north for some dis- 
tance, following the foot of the cliffs, between the 
talus slope and the lake. 

The lake, which was beautifully clear, had a 
sandy beach and bottom, upon which there was 




An Eskimo Family, Nastapoka Sound 




At the Tree Limit 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 201 

no growth of vegetation, and was from four to 
five miles long and about three quarters of a mile 
wide, narrowing to points at the ends. At its 
eastern extremity, the lake empties into a small 
stream which follows an easterly course through 
the opening between the hills. At this point, the 
talus slopes at the foot of the cliff extend to the 
water and thus force the trail to mount them, a 
rather rough place since they are made up chiefly 
of large, angular blocks of trap. 

The cliffs at the end of the lake made a grand 
picture. The dark, columnal trap, in a layer of 
great thickness, surmounting vari-coloured strata 
of limestone, and the talus slopes, covered with 
a scrubby growth of green, at their feet, gave a 
brilliant play of colour in the sunlight. 

A short distance ahead we descended to the 
level of the stream, and while doing so noticed 
what appeared to be the remains of an old sea 
beach, the rounded boulders piled high up on the 
edge of the cliff fully three hundred feet above 
the present level of the sea. 

The trail led along the bank of the stream and 
soon traces of the inhabitants of the locality were 
seen in the form of several salmon spears, cached 
on a large rock. These spears were a marvel of 
ingenuity, with the shaft of driftwood, carefully 
squared up, the forks of seal ribs, and the curved 
points of nails, evidently obtained at the Posts. 
Unlike the Indian, whose handicraft though ser- 



202 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

viceable is distinctly crude, the Eskimo is by 
nature an artisan of high order. 

Rounding a projecting point of the cliff, we 
were confronted by a huge, pyramid-shaped 
mountain, rising from seven hundred to a thousand 
feet above the level of the stream. This we named 
Table Mountain because of its flat top. It stood 
seemingly in the middle of the valley, dividing it. 
The pass on the northern side was the deeper and 
through it flowed the stream, along the shore of 
which the trail continued to the gulf, as was 
found later. 

Beyond Table Mountain the valley narrowed 
until it became practically nothing more than a 
gorge. The arm of the gulf, into which the stream 
emptied, soon appeared and it was apparent that 
our walk of eight miles was nearly completed. 

As the mouth of the stream was approached, 
more evidences of the Eskimo camps appeared, 
and several water casks and many traps, as well 
as rows of small stones, which marked the locations 
of their tents, were to be seen. 

But little of the gulf proper could be seen, for 
the arm of it, on the shore of which the trail ended, 
extended for some distance "behind a point of the 
mainland, although a small portion of the high 
hills on the opposite side was visible past the end 
of the arm. 

Only remaining for a few minutes, as it was 
growing late, we turned our faces homeward, with 





The Coliseum Cliff, Salmon Fisher's Trail 




Table Mountaiii, Salmon Fisher's Trail 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 203 

a feeling of the greatest satisfaction at having 
completed that which had been long planned and 
finally given up as an impossibility on that trip. 

The walk back through the valley, lighted by 
the rays of the lowering sun, along the hard- 
beaten Eskimo trail, was an experience long to be 
remembered. Reaching the crest of the hill, 
dividing the valley from the sea, we were privileged 
to see another beautiful panorama. The waters 
of the Bay extended to the horizon like a sheet of 
gold, as it reflected the rays of the setting sun, 
while the Nastapoka Islands seemed as a setting 
of precious stones. 

The camp was reached about seven o'clock, 
the entire walk of about sixteen miles being made 
in four and one half hours. 

The following morning, Thursday, we arose at 
four o'clock, but owing to the boat being aground 
did not get away until seven. The travelling was 
quite good, although the air was cold and damp 
and at times there was a thick fog. We managed 
to stay well in sight of the shore and still keep in 
safe water. Only once did we lose our position. 
This was during a particularly heavy period of 
fog, when the end of a long point of the mainland 
was mistaken for that of B danger Island. When 
the fog lifted we were steering directly into a 
deep bay above the point. 

At the entrance to Richmond Gulf, a York 
boat was seen anchored in a little harbour, and 



204 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

as we came nearer, the marquees of an Eskimo camp 
came into view. It was certain that these Eski- 
mos had come from the Great Whale River Post, 
and the fact that they were on the way to their 
hunting grounds was an evidence that the Inenew 
had arrived with the suppHes. If this were the 
case, undoubtedly the Bishop had left for home. 

The sun shone out as we came directly opposite 
to the entrance of the gulf, and gave us a glimpse 
of the gorge ; and the falls of the Wiachuan River 
in the hills beyond were dimly visible. The 
current was very swift through the entrance, as 
the tide was coming in, and the water was quite 
rough. As the direction of the current w^as in- 
ward, the course was taken at a good distance 
from the mainland. 

Little Whale River was reached about eleven 
o'clock, but no attempt was made to enter, al- 
though we would have done so had the season 
been less advanced. The chief object now was to 
reach Moose Factory as speedily as- possible, 
although it was our intention not to leave Fort 
George until the other party had caught up with 
us. 

Throughout the return journey it was the pur- 
pose to give strict attention to the mainland so 
as to locate any safe harbours which might be 
there, in case they should at any time in the 
future be needed. 

About two o'clock Second River was reached, 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 205 

where the York boat had been overtaken on our 
way northward. It was planned to visit Duck 
Island, had we returned earlier in the season, but it 
was too late now for this, so we passed on to the 
upper Boat Opening, at the north end of the 
Manitounuk Sound, reaching it about five o'clock. 
The tide was going out and we had to face a very 
strong current, but succeeded in passing through 
safely. 

Once in the sound, we began to look for the 
old camping place of five years before, but with- 
out success. Eventually, a very inviting harbour 
was found at the north side of Castle Rock, amid 
a clump of beautiful spruce trees. It was a real 
pleasure to be able to camp in the shelter of the 
trees, and where we could again make ourselves 
a bed of boughs. 

As may be imagined, the soft, springy bed, the 
first since we left Fort George, proved very com- 
fortable and enticing. As it was our intention 
not to go beyond Great Whale River that day, 
we slept later than usual and consequently did 
not weigh anchor until ten o'clock. The day was 
dull most of the time, although the sim shone at 
intervals. The sea was calm and we sailed along 
imder the most enjoyable conditions. 

We were delayed somewhat in getting into the 
Great Whale River as something went wrong with 
the engine while just outside of the mouth. We 
reached the Post at five o'clock and were met by 



206 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Harold Undgarten, the Factor being absent, 
having gone to Charlton Island to meet the 
steamer from Montreal. 

A site for the camp was selected on the slope 
between the Factor's house and the bank of the 
river. The Post is situated on the side of a hill 
which runs east and west and is thus protected 
from the north and west sea breezes. The slope 
was covered with a growth of grass fully two feet 
high. 

The Eskimos were most friendly, assisting us 
in transferring our dunnage from the boat to the 
tent and in securing a supply of firewood. 

To visit the various buildings of the Post again, 
in which a number of days had been spent on 
our previous trip, was most interesting. Harold 
Undgarten's house was visited the first evening. 
He had much to tell of events that had transpired 
since we had been there, five years before. Natu- 
rally, the most imiportant to him were the chang- 
ing of Factors, Mr. McKenzie being replaced by 
Mr. Mavor, and the improvements in the Com- 
pany's buildings. 

Our attention was attracted by a large pile of 
squared timber lying in the Post yard. Harold 
informed us that he was going to have a new 
house and that the timber was for the frame. The 
posts and beams were about six by eight inches, 
very much larger than seemed necessary. The 
logs had been procured from the valley of the 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND ^ 207 

Great Whale River, and had evidently been cut 
pretty well out in the open, as they were quite 
knotty. 

On our inquiry as to the condition of trade, 
Harold stated that there had been nothing done 
yet that year, and that the catch of the last season, 
which had just been shipped, was hardly up to 
the standard. The season previous to that had 
been a record one. Eighty thousand dollars* 
worth of skins, chiefly of the Arctic fox, had been 
secured at this Post. 

The Post formerly shipped large quantities of 
seal and whale oil, but of late years comparatively 
little has been produced. We had noticed the 
scarcity of whales on this trip in comparison to 
the great numbers that were to be seen in 1907. 
For this almost every native had an explanation 
of his own, the unusual weather conditions being 
the chief reason given for their absence. 

On the other hand, the seals were unusually 
plentiful. They were about us on every hand, 
no matter where we were sailing. Some were 
seen even in the rivers, up which they had gone 
to get a meal of fancy fresh-water fish, no doubt 
by way of a change. The flesh and blubber of 
the seal are much prized by the Eskimos, both 
as food for themselves and their dogs. The eating 
of blubber is probably accountable for the former's 
plump forms and greasy appearance. The skin, 
too, forms one of their most valuable assets. From 



2o8 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

it they make their boots, cover their kyaks, 
manufacture their dog harness and harpoon Hnes, 
and they probably have a dozen other uses for it, 
in fact their entire winter costume is made from 
seal, polar bear, caribou, and other skins. 

Before leaving Harold's house that night he 
promised us assistance in getting our boat ready 
to be repaired the next morning. Consequently 
several of the neighbouring Eskimos came to help 
us haul it up on the beach and raise it into posi- 
tion for repairs. On the whole, it had stood the 
journey well, but the rudder had become displaced 
from the protecting shoe, during the storm at 
Salmon Fisher's Cove. 

Our helpers were good-natured, smiling fellows, 
with ideas of their own as to how the work should 
be done. There was a marked difference between 
them and the average Indians, who, no doubt, 
would have looked on carelessly, wondering more 
than anything else if they were going to receive 
something to eat or tobacco to smoke in return 
for their services. 

We hoped to leave as soon as the boat was re- 
paired, but when the work was completed, the 
hour was so late it would have been impossible 
for us to have reached another harbour by night- 
fall. The days were shortening very perceptibly, 
so it was impossible to start before seven o'clock 
in the morning, or run later than five in the evening. 
In fact, the day was just about half the length of 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 209 

what it would have been in the middle of June at 
that latitude. It might be interesting to note 
that in the Hudson Straits, during the eariy sum- 
mer, there is practically no night whatever, and 
it is because of this long day of sunshine that 
vegetation is so rapid and grains and vegetables 
mature so quickly in the far North. 

The next day, Sunday, was a foggy, stormy 
day, consequently it was impossible for us to leave. 
The day was spent very quietly as Sunday is 
strictly observed at Great Whale River. In fact 
the Eskimos cut our Sunday wood on Saturday 
with the expectation that we might remain over, 
and Harold was very particular in ascertaining 
if we had everything that would be required from 
the store, as he could not open it on Sunday. 

We had patronized the store extensively, being 
almost entirely out of provisions when the Post 
was reached, and a supply of the ordinary articles 
of food was obtained and eaten with as much relish 
as if they had been real delicacies. 

In the afternoon, we attended service in the 
little church on the top of the hill overlooking the 
Post, on one side, and the sea, on the other. In 
the absence of Nero, the lay preacher, who had 
just been ordained a deacon by the Bishop and 
was on a missionary tour as far south as Rupert 
House, the service was led by Peter, another native 
evangelist. 

The service was conducted entirely in the 
14 



2IO IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Eskimo tongue, but although unintelligible to us, 
the earnestness of the preacher and his hearers 
was a fitting lesson for any one professing Christian- 
ity. The eloquence with which Peter delivered 
his discourse would have been an inspiration to 
many a half-hearted minister. The heartiness 
of the singing, in which everyone joined, would 
have been a revelation to the congregation of 
many a modern church. Another noticeable fact 
was the attendance of whole families, the old 
grandfather as well as the baby grandchild. 

The occasion was interesting as well as surpris- 
ing. Although not a word from the beginning 
to the close of the service could be understood, 
it was our duty to be present and show these 
people that we were heartily in sympathy with 
them. The missionaries say that they are placed 
in a most embarrassing position when white men 
visit the Posts and entirely ignore the church. 
The natives suppose the Church to be a universal 
institution of the white man, and the missionaries 
have been plied with many questions regarding 
the fact that some of the visitors had failed to 
attend the services. These questions they have 
fotmd very ' difficult to answer. In fact, the 
Eskimo is, generally speaking, a thinking man, 
and it is not an infrequent occurrence for the 
missionary to be hard-pressed for an answer to 
his critical questions regarding the creation and 
other Biblical stories with which he is familiar. 




J.^ 



Castle Rock, Manitounuk Sound 




Eskimos at Service, Great Whale River 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 211 

At the close of the service, as is the usual custom 
when white men attend, the natives sat still and 
waited for the visitors to leave. As soon as we 
reached the door, the congregation rose and started 
to disperse. 

In the evening, we again visited the home of 
Harold Undgarten, and were entertained with a 
sacred concert on the Victor gramophone. This 
machine is playing a very prominent part in the 
civilization and education of the Indians and 
Eskimos of the Bay. At the various Posts, we 
had been entertained with the gramophone, and 
while many of the records were of a sacred nature, 
others were of the better class of secular music, 
and had evidently been carefully selected. On 
this occasion we listened to some records of well- 
known singers, amongst whom were the Hayden 
quartette in their widely known renditions of 
Nearer my God to Thee, Rock of Ages, and Jesus 
Lover of my Soul. It was very enjoyable to hear 
these old selections, in fact, it was like meeting 
old friends, after an absence of several months 
from the realms of good music. 

The Eskimos have a great love for music and 
whenever a talking machine is within hearing 
distance they are certain to be attracted by it. 
A very amusing story is told by one of the mis- 
sionaries. An Eskimo hearing a gramophone, for 
the first time, delivering a discourse in his own 
language, dropped his chin in amazement and 



212 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

said to the missionary, "Is that a canned mis- 
sionary?" The other replied in the affirmative, 
and then the query came, ''Why don't you take 
off the lid and let him out?" 

When the concert was over, Harold informed us 
that he also had a phonograph, and producing 
it, said that it was out of order. Mac at once 
undertook to look it over with the intention of 
repairing it, but was quietly rebuked with the 
remark, "It is Sunday and we will wait until 
tomorrow for any repairing that is necessary." 

Harold was in a good talking mood, and after 
some encouragement, told of many incidents in 
the religious life of the people. He informed us 
that since our last visit, the Eskimos and Indians 
connected with the Post had become deeply 
religious, due entirely to the teaching of Mr. 
Walton. Every year, the latter makes two trips 
to Great Whale River Post and on one of them 
remains for a month with the people. These all 
assemble at the time planned the previous year 
for the next annual visit. 

Mr. Walton's fame has been carried by visiting 
Eskimos from place to place until it has finally 
reached the Labrador coast, from which many 
came the previous spring. This meant a journey 
of at least a thousand miles overland, going and 
returning. The visiting Eskimos were so pleased 
with their experience at the Great Whale River 
Post that they had succeeded in getting Mr. 



RETURN FROM CLARK ISLAND 213 

Walton to promise to meet them there the follow- 
ing July, agreeing to return at that time with 
double their number. 

One can imagine the earnestness of these Eski- 
mos by their willingness to undertake such a long 
journey for the sake of the missionary's teaching 
and preaching. They possess a great desire to 
know the full contents of the Bible, and are en- 
deavouring to live strictly in accordance with its 
teachings, so far as they know them. 

We said farewell to Harold and his wife, expect- 
ing to leave the Post the next morning. We were 
baffled again in our purpose, for when everything 
was packed in the boat ready for the start, a fog 
settled down, compelling us to wait for it to lift. 
It was not until the afternoon that it was fotmd 
to be impossible to leave that day, and we were 
compelled to bring the tents and other dunnage 
ashore and prepare to spend another night at the 
Post. 

Late in the afternoon it became quite bright 
and clear and advantage was taken of the oppor- 
tunity to get some more photographs. The 
Eskimo people are always good nattued about 
posing for a photo. On that afternoon several 
excellent photos of the Eskimo women and children 
were secured. 

After this a visit was paid to the oil house, one 
of the many buildings of the Post that is likely 
to be of interest to an outsider. It is a large 



214 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

frame structiire, which, due to the odour diffused 
therefrom, might easily be found by any one not 
possessing the sense of sight. The animal oil ob- 
tained from the blubber has a very offensive odour, 
before refining, to those not accustomed to it. 

One end of the building was occupied by two 
large cauldrons, about which was built a brick 
furnace. The whole was surmounted by a huge 
chimney and ventilator, through which the smoke 
and fumes from the boiling fat could pass. In the 
other end was a large table of planks upon which 
the slabs of blubber were laid to be cut into small 
pieces. Around the room were huge scales for 
weighing the blubber, the Eskimos being paid 
after this reckoning. Upon the rafters above 
were reposing many kyaks, harpoons, and other 
paraphernalia which their nomad owners did not 
require at the time, and with which they would 
not be encumbered. 



CHAPTER XVI 




Great WKale River to Fort George 

Y six o'clock on Tuesday morning 
we were ready to weigh anchor, 
but Mac could not get the engine 
started until an hour later, and 
even then, it did not run properly. 
When several miles out from the shore of the Bay 
the engine stopped entirely. It seemed for a 
time as though the boat would have to be rowed 
ashore, for there was no breeze with which to sail, 
and a thick fog began to settle around us. It was 
certainly a dangerous predicament for there was 
no marine compass aboard which was reliable 
enough to steer by. This condition of affairs 
seemed all the more aggravating, as we had been 
assured several days before starting that the boat 
and engine were in perfect order. 

Again Providence favoured us. The fog soon 
lifted and by that time the engine had been put 
in order so we started forward immediately. 
The travelling continued good until an island, 
about eight miles from Sucker Creek, was reached. 
Here a thick fog again settled down accompanied 
by drizzling rain. To proceed was impossible, 

215 



2i6 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

so we anchored in a small harbour on the east 
side of the island, but remained aboard, hoping 
that the fog might lift. 

Late in the afternoon the fog began to clear, 
and a start was made with the intention of going 
as far as Sucker Creek, but the stiff wind that was 
driving away the mist raised such a heavy sea, 
it was impossible for us to weather it, so we re- 
turned to the harbour and set up camp on the 
island. 

As we had been living principally on pancakes 
for nearly a month and a half, they were becoming 
rather a monotonous article of diet, so the camp 
being pitched early, one of the party made an 
oven, to fit the top of the stove, in which to bake 
biscuits. It was made entirely from a five-gallon 
square gasoline can, and showed the extent of 
man's ingenuity when in a country devoid of the 
conveniences of civilization. This was a time 
when the old adage, "Necessity is the mother 
of invention," asserted itself very strongly. 

We were detained on the island for a day by 
the storm. It was evidently a much-used camping 
place, for a supply of wood was already collected 
and many bones of fish and fowl were lying about. 
Our tents were set up in a cozy nook on the side 
of a hill, and, although the wind blew very strongly, 
it was hardly perceptible until we went out into 
the open. 

The second morning after our arrival, we were 



GREAT WHALE RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 217 

able to continue our journey after a seven o'clock 
change of weather, which was a very favourable 
one. 

When in the vicinity of Sucker Creek, we noticed 
two kyaks some distance ahead of us and well out 
to sea. The Eskimos had already seen us and 
were paddling hard toward the shore, so as to 
intercept us. They proved to be some of the 
men from Husky Bill's camp. We felt it inctun- 
bent upon us to stop and engage in the usual 
salutations. Neither of the men could speak a 
word of English, so we could not exchange news 
with them. Wishing them to have pleasant 
recollections of the meeting, we gave them some 
tea and a few biscuits. When we said ' ' good-bye ' * 
and proceeded on our way, they went ashore to 
enjoy the "good things" with which they had 
been presented. 

We passed Husky Bill's camp at Little Cape 
Jones River, but were too far out to recognize 
any people there. About two o'clock we rounded 
Little Cape Jones and entered the Long Island 
Sound. The sun shone brightly and it was an 
ideal day for travelling, but no sooner had we 
entered the sound than the wind began to rise. 
Only those who have travelled in these northern 
waters realize how quickly the weather can change 
and how soon a craft may pass from a condition 
of safety to one of great danger. 

We went ahead, .knowing that there was a 



2i8 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

harbour somewhere near SpHt Rock, a few miles 
south of Little Cape Jones, in which shelter could 
be had. Beyond this there are no harbours until 
the islands at the southern end of the sound are 
reached. Even with good weather, the islands 
could hardly be reached by sunset, consequently 
it was highly important that we should find the 
nearby harbour and wait there for quiet weather 
in which to round the Cape. We sought for it 
diligently for an hour or more, but, failing to 
locate it in that time, realized to our regret that 
it must have been passed. 

It was impossible to turn back, for the sea, 
which was safe enough when going with the wind, 
was too heavy to face. There was nothing we 
could do but proceed as quickly as possible and 
endeavour to reach the islands before night. It 
was then that the disadvantage of having had a 
guide over this course on the way northward was 
realized for, trusting in his ability, we had not 
watched the shores as carefully as at other times, 
when alone. 

The sky had been cloudless all day, but as the 
sun neared the setting, dark clouds rose and 
covered it and a fog began to blow in from the 
sea. Thus the darkness came much earlier than 
was anticipated and we realized that a favourable 
place must be found where the boat could be 
anchored for the night and the camp set up. 
Such a place was very difficult to obtain. The 



GREAT WHALE RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 219 

water bordering the mainland was very shallow 
for quite a distance out from the shore, making it 
quite impossible to get protection behind any of 
the small points. It soon became so dark that it 
was impossible to pick out a course and we often 
found ourselves in the breakers over the shoals 
that extended outward from the mainland at 
short intervals. 

At last, driven to immediate action, we anchored 
to the south of one of the points where, just by 
chance, we had found deeper water than had been 
encountered so near the shore elsewhere — about 
six feet at half tide. 

Once more on shore, we felt deeply grateful 
to Providence for our escape from such a serious 
predicament, with, after all, but a slight incon- 
venience. It was no easy job to set up camp in 
the almost total darkness. Luckily, we had 
emergency firewood and water in the boat, 
and thus were able to prepare a much-needed 
meal. 

The wind blew strongly throughout the night, 
and in the morning was higher than ever. Al- 
though anxious to move to a really safe anchorage 
we were compelled to stay in camp as the sea was 
very rough despite the fact that the day was 
beautifully bright and clear. 

With the exception of the anchorage, which 
was entirely unprotected, it seemed as though we 
were guided by fate to a good camping place, for 



220 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

there was plenty of fresh water and some drift- 
wood close at hand. 

A glance from the top of a hill behind the camp 
showed that the islands we had been endeavouring 
to reach were about two miles to the south, and 
if we had had daylight for a few minutes more, 
they would have been jeached. 

Little could be done during the day save minor 
repairs on our clothing, so we retired early, plan- 
ning to watch the boat during the night. Our 
lot seemed hard, but we comforted ourselves with 
the thought that as this was Friday the thirteenth, 
nothing better could be expected, and that fol- 
lowing days would bring better luck. 

The wind dropped during the night, but veered in 
the morning from the north-east to the south-west 
and blew a gale. This caused a great increase in 
the roughness of the sea, and huge breakers began 
to roll up the beach. The change in the direction 
of the wind drove the boat nearer the shore during 
the high tide, and at low tide she was aground. 
During the lower stages of the tide, while she was 
yet afloat, the boat would be lifted up on the crest 
of a wave, and dashed with a heart-rending bump 
on the boulder-strewn beach when in the trough. 

In the morning two of the party tried to reach 
the boat in the canoe, but after three trials, in 
each of which they were swamped by the combers 
and thrown back on the beach, they gave it up 
as an impossibility. At low tide they again made 



GREAT WHALE RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 221 

the attempt and this time were successful. The 
boat was found to contain a large quantity of 
water and was bailed out. Removing some of the 
valuables, they returned to shore, and as it was 
impossible to do anything for the boat itself, left 
her in the hands of fate, rather expecting to collect 
her remains from the beach in the morning. 

The storm continued throughout the night. 
The next morning it was suggested that the boat 
be moved to a little bay, about a mile southward. 
We recognized this bay to be one in which our 
yacht had been anchored on the previous trip 
and thought that the water might be deeper there 
than where the boat was lying. We went along 
the beach to the bay to ascertain if such were 
the case and, also, to procure some good logs for 
firewood, which had been observed on a former 
walk. The water proved to be no deeper, so it 
was decided to move the boat farther from the 
shore, but to leave her opposite the camp. 

The engine being cold and wet, considerable 
time would be required to start it, consequently 
Mac decided to pole her out into deeper water, 
although there was but one other man in the boat 
to assist him. The anchor was no sooner up than 
the wind began to drive the boat, toward the 
shore, despite the best efforts of the pair to combat 
the force of the wind and the waves. Finally she 
drifted among the breakers and it was evident that 
the only way to save her was to haul her hard up 



222 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

on to the beach. To leave her in the breakers 
amongst the rocks, meant sure destruction. She 
was taken opposite a sandy place on the beach, 
where there were but a few scattered boulders, 
and pulled up as far as the water would permit. 

It was about three o'clock in the afternoon 
when the boat was moved, and as the tide was 
going out, there would not be deep enough water 
to permit of her being drawn up any farther for 
about six hours. This meant that we would have 
a midnight seance on the beach, and even if the 
weather were favourable the next day it would 
not be possible to take advantage of it until twelve 
o'clock, when the tide would be high again. 

It seemed as if all the elements of nature had 
conspired to give us a rough time that night, for 
not only was it blowing hard but was as dark as 
Egypt, and finally wound up with a driving rain 
and snow storm. We worked from eight o'clock 
until half past twelve getting the boat pulled up 
on to the beach. 

The experience was one of the worst of the 
whole trip. The supply of firewood had become 
very small, in fact there was only enough for 
cooking the food, the last secured having been 
carried for about two miles on our shoulders, con- 
sequently we could not even have a fire to warm 
our cold, wet hands and feet, when resting. The 
work had to be done in almost total darkness, for 
the lantern would not burn properly in the wind. 



GREAT WHALE RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 223 

and finally a piece was knocked out of the globe, 
entirely incapacitating it for further use. 

In the midst of it all we kept up our courage 
by singing and trying to imagine we were having 
a good time. The surf was very heavy and we 
were drenched by the spray from the breakers as 
they struck the boat. When all was over a fire 
was kindled and a kettle of tea made to refresh 
the tired party. The experiences of the night 
on that distant and dreary shore, so far removed 
from any other white men, will not soon be for- 
gotten by the members of the party. Retiring 
with a feeling that our craft was out of danger, 
we once more had visions of landing safely in 
Moose Factory. 

The next morning was dull-grey, heavy rain 
clouds being present, but the breeze was offshore 
and light so that the sea was calm. The boat 
proved to be in much better condition than was 
expected, a broken tiller rope being the most 
serious damage she had sustained. All repairs 
were made in time to launch her at high tide. 
We were off at half past one. A fog began to 
settle just before the start, but it did not get thick 
enough to prevent travelling. 

After passing the islands at the southern end 
of the sound, there are no other landmarks or 
harbours until Cape Jones is passed, and before 
long it w^as impossible to identify our position on 
the map. We could not help feeling a little anx- 



224 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

ious about rounding the Cape, but hoped that on 
account of the late subsidence of the wind the 
water would be quiet. Our prognostications 
were not to prove correct, for as the Cape was 
approached leaving the shelter of the sound, the 
waters were found to be much disturbed, the 
swells rolling high. 

Before long we reached a perfect cordon of 
shoals extending far out to sea, but were always 
warned by the surf, and were thus able to avoid 
them. Point after point would come into view 
and back of them all we could see the high hills 
of Cape Jones, which never seemed to get any 
closer. 

Finally we encountered a very swift ciirrent, 
fortunately in the right direction, and it was evi- 
dent that before long the Cape would be passed. 
One of the points that had been looming up ahead 
proved to be an island, and as it was approached, 
the opening between it and the mainland proved 
to be so wide that we knew the Cape was actually 
roimded, for there are no large islands after those 
of Long Island Sound, until those south of the 
Cape are reached. We proceeded along amongst 
a perfect network of shoals, and finally entered the 
little harbour in which we had anchored on the 
way north. The day was concluded most happily 
by a beautiful, clear sunset, an omen of fair 
weather, we hoped, for the next day. 

While setting up the camp we were visited by 



GREAT WHALE RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 225 

our old friends, the Huskies, who brought us some 
fine salmon trout and whitefish. Our supper of 
trout that night was one of the greatest feasts we 
had during our travels. No fish we had ever 
tasted were quite as good as these. Not only was 
the flavour delicious but, it seemed to us, the 
meat was firmer than any we had ever eaten. 

It was with a feeling of great satisfaction and 
perfect safety we retired that night. Many days 
had passed since we had had an uninterrupted 
night's sleep, so this respite was enjoyed to the 
fullest extent. In fact we did not rise the next 
morning at the usual early hour and it must have 
been nine o'clock before the anchor was weighed. 
The sky was overcast and the morning somewhat 
chilly. 

The inside course was taken, the one Joseph 
had followed, and as the tide was higher than 
when we passed over it with him, it was not as 
difficult to keep off the shoals. 

Drawing near to Seal River we began to make a 
short cut across some unprotected water, but as 
the wind started to rise, the course was changed 
to the lee side of an island, opposite the mouth 
of the river. From the end of this island a course 
was taken out to another a couple of miles distant, 
and, being chilly and hungry, we decided to land 
on the latter and have a 'warm dinner. It proved 
to be an old camping place with plenty of wood 
and water, and in one hour we had made our- 
is 



226 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

selves a good hot meal, eaten it, and were off 
again. 

After going about an hour, a camp was sighted 
on a long, low island, immediately off the main- 
land. It was thought for a time that it might be 
our own men, who, having passed us, were camped 
there awaiting a fair sailing wind. At a distance 
the tents strongly resembled theirs, but on ap- 
proaching them it was found that the number was 
larger than was required by the party, and Indian 
men and women could be seen moving about ex- 
citedly, no doubt in anticipation of a visit from 
us. These Indians, it was afterwards learned, 
were from the Revillon Post at Fort George and 
were on their way to winter quarters at Sucker 
Creek. 

We had quite a long hunt that night for a suit- 
able harbour and camping place, and the best 
that could be found was a grassy spot on the top 
of a long, high shoal off the entrance to Paul Bay. 
It was nearly dark when this was located and to 
our regret there was no water anywhere on the 
elevated spot. It was low tide at the time and 
therefore possible to walk across to another of 
these shoal islands. Mac undertook to go over 
there and look for water and returned in about 
half an hour with two kettlefuls. 

Before the tents were quite up, it started to 
rain. A supply of fuel was near, for on the top 
of the shoal there was a pile of driftwood, con- 



GREAT WHALE RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 227 

taining probably fifty cords. It rained hard all 
night, and the tent, which was now beginning to 
be the worse for wear, leaked over the bed and 
robbed us of our night's rest. 

The tide being low the next morning, consider- 
able difficulty was experienced in getting out of 
the harbour, which was full of long^seaweed. The 
engine was not in very good running condition, 
so, in order to take advantage of the wind, which 
was a fair one, we spread the sail, and going south- 
ward, passed the mouth of Paul Bay. 

The wind rose gradually as the morning ad- 
vanced and the shallow sea became so boisterous 
we thought it unsafe for travelling and ran into 
a protected spot between two islands. Here we 
remained for a short time in consultation as to 
whether a course should be taken through the 
Pipestone Gutway, or to proceed and take chances 
on the outside. It was finally decided that if 
we travelled at all it was safer to keep out to sea. 
After a short halt, the wind lowered somewhat, 
so we weighed anchor, raised the sail, and started 
out again. The course was still very shoaly 
although it was at a considerable distance from 
the mainland. 

At midday it was decided to take an hour for 
luncheon and accordingly an effort was made to 
effect a landing on one of the islands. It was 
quite impossible to approach it nearer than a mile 
or so owing to the shallows. The engine was 



228 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

beginning to give trouble, and as we were passing 
over a very shallow area in a swift current, it 
made us feel somewhat anxious. Suddenly, when 
running amongst huge boulders, it stopped com- 
pletely. Immediately the poles were brought 
into requisition to prevent a collision with the 
rocks. The sail propelled the boat at sufificient 
speed to give it steerageway and an accident was 
thus averted. Soon after, the engine was gotten 
into order and gave no further trouble throughout 
the afternoon. 

We were then within a couple of miles of a high, 
red granite island, so it was determined that if it 
were possible, a landing would be made there for 
luncheon, as it was long past midday. It was 
surrounded with deep water and we were able to 
run the bow up on a ledge and land without the 
use of the canoe. The place chosen for the meal 
was a delightful spot on a rocky slope, sheltered 
from the wind and facing the sea and the sun. 
There was an abundance of wood and fresh water 
close at hand, and it was but a short time before 
a most enjoyable repast was prepared. The meal 
over, we were off again within our usual allotted 
time, one hour. 

We were considerably relieved on coming around 
the island to see Wastikon looming up in the 
distance, probably twelve or fifteen miles off. 
We steered for this high landmark and kept it 
as our objective point until within about three 



GREAT WHALE RIVER TO EORT GEORGE 229 

miles of it, when the course was changed to cross 
the mouth of Goose Bay. 

While making this long cut from land to land, 
the wind was gradually freshening, but very for- 
tunately was directly behind us. This was the 
roughest sea we had travelled in during our whole 
trip. The boat was often carried ten feet high 
on the waves, but by careful steering, we were able 
to ride them without any serious consequences. 
Although becoming well used to such experiences, 
we certainly felt more comfortable when travel- 
ling on a less boisterous sea. It would have been 
quite impossible to have weathered this gale had 
we been going in the opposite direction. 

An unsuccessful effort was made to find Strom- 
ness Harbour, the place where so many days had 
been spent when going northward. Two islands 
were passed, on one of which were camped about 
twenty Indians, who were on their way north to 
their hunting grounds. Joseph, the Bishop's 
guide, was one of the party. 

We were strongly impelled to drop the anchor 
and go ashore on one of the islands, but being 
only four or five miles from Fort George, the 
prospect of camping again on this old favourite 
spot was an impetus for us to push forward, 
despite the roughness of the water. 

We expected to reach the mouth of the river 
by six o'clock, sunset, and kept up to schedule 
time. The sun was setting as the river was 



230 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

entered. The tide was going out and the current 
was very strong. There was a sHght wind behind 
us so we took advantage of it by spreading the 
second sail. With all the motive power brought 
into action, it took us fully an hour to cover the 
distance between the mouth of the river and the 
Post. 

I The noise of the engine had attracted the atten- 
tion of the people, and when we came within 
seeing distance the Indians were gathering on 
the banks. By the time the pier was reached all 
the Post officers and Indians had assembled to 
give us a welcome. The boat was run on to the 
sandy beach and the Indians and officers gathered 
aroimd us, anxious to get the particulars of our 
trip. 

We were not allowed to do anything. All the 
dunnage was carried up to the Post ground, the 
tents and stoves set up, and wood sufficient for a 
couple of days was cut. The cordial reception 
by the people was appreciated, as were their 
expressions of anxiety for our welfare, owing to 
our long delay in returning. One of the retired 
Indian servants told us afterward, in a very con- 
fidential way, that he was "very dubious" about 
our return. 

To otir regret, Mr. Griffith was away, but Mr. 
Alec. Luttit was in charge of the Post, with instruc- 
tions to assist us in every manner possible. The 
Factor had gone to Charlton shortly after oiu: 



GREAT WHALE RIVER TO FORT GEORGE 231 

departure to await the arrival of the steamer from 
Montreal. Mr. Walton had also left with his 
family, en route for England, by way of the Moose 
and Abitibi rivers. 

An addition had been made to the personnel 
of the Revillon Post, in the person of Mrs. Blais, 
who had come from Montreal, on the Adventure, 
the Revillon steamer, which arrived at Strutton 
early in August, where she was met by her husband. 

As our food supply was almost exhausted, we 
had hoped to replenish it immediately on our 
arrival, but the Hudson's Bay Company was 
entirely out of provisions, and as it was a mile to 
the Revillon store, it was decided to put up with 
another scrap meal and get to bed as soon as 
possible. 

We had to await the departure of our many 
callers, who were all very kind in giving us such 
news as they had received from the lower part of 
the Bay, and were equally interested in the details 
of our trip to the North. 

When at last we retired it was with feelings of 
thankfulness to Providence, whose many mercies 
had brought us this far south in safety, through 
such dangerous experiences. 



CHAPTER XVII 




Fort George 

HEN leaving Clark Island, we ex- 
pected to take a one-hundred-mile 
trip up the Big River, and pro- 
mised Mr. Strong not to leave 
Fort George for the South until he 
arrived there. On reaching that Post, owing to 
the many delays met with, it was found too late 
to undertake a trip up the river. 

The boat engine had to be completely over- 
hauled, and while that was being done, the hull 
was to be painted. When the repairs and the 
painting were finished, we hoped to start for 
the South, providing Mr. Strong and his party 
had arrived, otherwise, we must await their 
coming. 

' The days passed swiftly by and soon our boat 
was ready, but the York boat had not appeared. 
Although impatient at so long a delay, we deter- 
mined to make the best of it, and get as much 
enjoyment out of our stay as possible. It seemed 
that in consideration of all we had undergone in 
the way of bad weather and rough, slow travelling, 
no comfort or pleasure was too great for us. 

232 



FORT GEORGE 233 



The weather was delightful, the most beautiful 
of all our trip. On the night of the twenty-first 
of September, the first frost of the season occurred, 
and the ground was white the next morning. Up 
to this time the weather had been so bright and 
warm that we preferred to eat our meals out on 
the grass rather than stay inside and be exposed 
to the heat of the stove. 

Every day Mr. Griffith was expected back, and 
it was no infrequent sight to see some of the 
Indians on top of the Factor's house, telescope 
in hand, looking for a first glimpse of his boat, 
The Pride. 

It was also on the twenty-first of September, the 
day of the fall equinox, that a boat was seen enter- 
ing the river which was at first thought to be our 
York boat, but it proved to be one of the Company's 
boats returning from Charlton. It was not The 
Pride, so it was quite evident that the steamer 
from Montreal had not arrived. The returned 
boat with its crew had been awaiting the coming 
of the ship with provisions for over a month, and 
had come back with some that they had gotten 
from one of the other Posts in the south of the 
Bay, where larger stocks are always kept, since 
it was feared the ship had met with some mishap. 

The crew were welcomed with all the enthusiasm 
that had been noticed on previous occasions among 
these people, but the joy of the home-coming 
was turned to dismay, for they brought news of a 



234 I^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

scarcity of provisions at all the Posts, and worst 
of all, a famine of ammunition. 

The situation was a serious one. The time for 
the return of the hunters to the hunting grounds, 
with their winter's provisions, was long past. 
Not an ounce of ammunition could be bought at 
the Hudson's Bay Company's store, and yet many 
families, whose food for the coming winter de- 
pended on it, had been anxiously waiting a whole 
month for a supply. The men, women, and 
children gathered in little groups about the mem- 
bers of the boat crew, asking questions and gravely 
discussing the situation. 

Judging from past experiences, we had antici- 
pated some fine sunsets during our stay at Fort 
George, and were not disappointed. The location 
of the Post at a point on the river, giving an un- 
interrupted view of the sea to the west, offered 
the best conditions for viewing a simset at this 
time of the year. 

In the evening after the excitement attending 
the arrival of the boat had quieted down, our 
expectations were fully realized in the simset. 
As the blazing orb sank into the western sea, to 
quench its fiery radiance in the glittering water, 
banks of fluffy, white clouds, hovering above, were 
lit up with a gorgeous glow, and by their forms, 
so realistic, one was drawn into the realm of Greek 
mythology and pictured Dawn being led forth to 
earth by the gods of Olympus. 



FORT GEORGE 235 



The green of the spruce-lined river banks, 
mingled with the brilliant autumnal colours of 
the other foliage, was brightened by the soft rays. 
The old post buildings with their weather beaten 
coatings of paint were imbued with an air of 
warmth and comfort. The sombre wigwam, with 
the smoke lazily curling upward, gave a sense 
of remoteness from modern architectural achieve- 
ment, while the Indian women, paddling quietly 
in their canoes toward camp, returning with the 
reward of their afternoon visit to the nets, added 
life to the impressive picture. 

Another day had passed and our men had not 
yet arrived, but we believed they must be some- 
where near at hand awaiting a favourable wind, 
for it had blown in a contrary direction throughout 
the day. 

As the following day would be Sunday, it was 
decided to set up the large silk tent, it having 
been fully repaired at the Post. Sunday brought 
a warm, driving rain from the south, and we were 
thankful that all our provisions and clothing had 
been brought into a clean, roomy shelter, which 
with the help of a canvas fly was reasonably 
waterproof. 

We had been troubled by our old enemies, the 
Husky dogs, ever since our arrival but during the 
first night in the big tent were not molested by 
them, having taken the utmost precaution against 
them, knowing that they were hungry and likely 



236 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

to eat anything. In fact, they had already eaten 
a pair of sealskin boots and about fifty feet of 
sealskin line that we had innocently left unguarded 
in the tent. 

One box of provisions had been left in the old 
tent, a case of tinned meats, without suspicion 
that the dogs would molest it. We were soon to 
learn our mistake for on the following night a 
crash followed by howls and other sounds of 
battle announced the fact that the canned goods 
was a prize in a tooth and claw tournament. 
The box was removed by one of the party and a 
few stones hurled at the canine adventurers, who 
slunk off into the darkness to await a better 
opportunity for pillage. 

We had just gotten comfortably settled in our 
blankets, when behold! a tear in the corner of 
the tent, caused by its flapping in the wind, was 
suddenly enlarged and admitted a dog. We 
were on him in an instant, beating him with boots 
and clubs, but like his kind, he only lay down fiat 
and voiced that weird, wolflike howl, until our 
ears were well-nigh deafened, and we let him out 
through the tent flap. 

This was but the beginning of an all-night 
seance. The next dog entered through the same 
hole, but was too quick for us and jumped through 
the other side of the tent. We filled up the new 
hole with flour bags, boxes, etc., but were unable 
to keep out the intruders, who maintained a steady 



FORT GEORGE 237 



invasion throughout the night, and practically 
ruined the tent. 

The following three days were without inci- 
dent. The weather was warm but cloudy, and 
the wind continued to blow from the south, a most 
disheartening fact, for there was no possible chance 
of the York boat making progress. The Post 
people were most kind, and hardly a day passed 
without at least one gift of some dainty being 
received. Fine rich milk and even thick cream, 
from the Post dairy, added flavour to pails of 
beautiful raspberries and blueberries, which the 
children brought us. Fresh butter was also 
given us, enough and to spare, and presents of 
fish and wild fowl were frequently received from 
the Indians. 

A good example of the gratitude of these natives 
occurred during our stay at Fort George. An 
Indian baby had been bitten by a dog. Since 
the departure of the Factor and the Missionary, 
there had been no one at the Post who knew any- 
thing about medicine, but believing that all white 
men had such knowledge, they begged us to come 
and see the child. Gathering the medicine kit, 
some soap, a wash basin, and a clean towel together, 
we proceeded to make our first professional call. 

It was in a large wigwam, full twenty feet in 
diameter and connected with a similar one by a 
passage made of an A- tent with the ends removed. 
The floor was beautifully clean and covered with 



238 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

freshly cut boughs. In the centre was an open fire, 
over which a kettle of water was boiling. Grouped 
around the fire were about twenty men, women, 
and children, some languidly smoking their pipes, 
while others were busy at their sewing or other 
handicrafts. 

The injury to the child proved not to be serious, 
and after carefully washing and dressing the 
wound, through which painful operation the child, 
scarcely three years old, never whimpered, we re- 
turned to our tent. 

During our absence a dog entered the tent, and 
although pursued by some of the Indians, escaped 
with a freshly roasted duck, which had been 
cooked for the dinner. The father of the child, 
upon hearing this, brought us a fine wavy (a 
species of goose) and insisted that we take it, 
despite the fact that we realized how low his supply 
of provisions really was. The half-breeds advised 
us to take the gift, for to refuse, they said, would 
be an insult to the giver, so we acquiesced re- 
luctantly, much impressed with the gratitude of 
the poor fellow. 

On the morning of Tuesday, September the 
twenty-seventh, we were awakened by a fearful 
flapping of the tent, the howling of the wind in 
the nearby bush, and the swish of breakers as 
they rolled up on the beach behind us. The 
latter was an unmistakable sign that a strong west 
wind was blowing in from the Bay. Our fears 



FORT GEORGE 239 



for the safety of the boat were immediately 
aroused. Hastily dressing and calling to Mac to 
do the same, we rushed down to the beach. 

The Company's sailboats had been removed 
soon after the wind arose, and anchored in safety 
around the bend of the river. Our little boat was 
pitching and tossing about on the waves, but the 
anchor was holding well. It was evident that it 
would be necessary to move her for the swift cur- 
rent was forcing her to meet the waves stern on, 
and she was in danger of taking water if the storm 
increased. 

At the last minute before starting out to the 
boat, we found that the dogs had eaten the leather 
tow-line of the canoe. There was only a short 
piece of old rope near at hand, but time being 
precious we decided to trust to it. 

The trip out to the boat was accomplished safely, 
and, on Mac's recommendation, we spread the 
sail, lifted the anchor, and tried to sail up the river. 
The wind drove the canoe faster than the boat, 
and then turned it side-on to the waves. It was 
immediately swamped, and breaking away from 
the boat, drifted down the river. It was too late 
to turn back, and in the meantime the engine 
was started, so we proceeded to the anchoring 
place. Fortunately, there was a jollyboat, which 
was used for moving hay on the beach, so we ran 
ashore and launched it as a tender, anchored our 
boat, and returned to the beach in it. There we 



240 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

were met by an excited group of women, who had 
tramped half a mile from the Post through the 
wet bushes to see if we were safe and to tell us 
the canoe had been rescued. 

No one saw us leave the Post, but some had 
seen the swamped canoe floating down the river 
and feared we had been in it when the accident 
had occurred. Hastily gathering twelve men 
together, they launched one of the huge freight- 
ing canoes, and carrying out a line, attached it to 
the derelict and towed her to shore. It was just 
such acts as these that showed the kindly interest 
that these people have in the welfare of their 
brother-man, an attribute that the people of our 
great cities might well acquire to their credit. 

It was with a feeling of relief that we sighted a 
square-rigged boat entering the river on the morn- 
ing of Saturday, September the twenty-eighth, 
and realized that it could be none other than our 
own York boat. The fresh, west breeze brought 
it slowly but surely up the river, and about eleven 
o'clock the parties were once more united. 

The York boat had left Clark Island on Septem- 
ber the eighth, one week after our departure, and 
since then the party had had many exciting experi- 
ences. They were all well but uneasy, owing to 
the continued delays, due to heavy, unfavourable 
winds, and the rapidly approaching winter. 

The crew of the York boat were very anxious 
that we should accompany them on the balance 



FORT GEORGE 241 

of the journey. This we considered unwise, for 
it would be necessary to remain at the Eastmain 
River for some time, while the other motor boat 
was being put in order. Hence we planned to 
start for the South the following morning, should 
the weather permit, and that the others shotild 
follow at the first opportunity. 
16 



CHAPTER XVIII 
Fort George to Eastmain River 

UNDAY morning, September the 
twenty-ninth, was dark and cloudy. 
The breeze, although light, blew 
from the south and was accom- 
panied by snow flurries. We were 
determined to start, so, after all arrangements 
with the other party had been completed, our 
journey was resumed about eleven o'clock, in 
the face of a driving snow flurry. 

As the Bay was approached the storm grew so 
bad it was impossible to find the course, so we had 
to put into a little harbour close to the mouth 
of the river. 

From a high rocky knoll we watched the sea 
and finally decided to make a dash for Loon Island 
during a lull in the storm. This island was the 
location of the original wholesale house of the 
Revillon Freres, and offered good protection for 
the boat, wood and water in plenty. From it, 
the weather conditions on the Bay could be better 
observed than in the protected river mouth. 

The most direct route to Loon Island lay be- 
tween the islands off the river mouth and over a 

242 



FORT GEORGE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 243 

very shoaly area, but time being precious it was 
decided to attempt that course. 

One of the party took a position on the fore- 
deck with a twelve-foot pole in hand, to sound for 
the channel and ward off from any rocks should 
collision be threatened. It was a tortuous channel, 
but was followed without mishap. The sea was 
very rough and at times the snowstorm completely 
enveiled the course, but eventually, half frozen, 
we entered the quiet waters of Loon harbour, 
and anchored in front of the old warehouse build- 
ing, which was still standing. 

The island is of rock, bare of vegetation except 
moss and cranberry bushes, with grass on a few 
sandy spots. The camp was set up on a bed of 
thick moss at the rear of the wholesale house. 
This was the exact spot on which the camp of 
the Inspector, Mr. Draulette, was located, when 
w^e met him and his wife for the first time on our 
previous visit. The Post was then in charge of 
Mr. Romany, who had an Eskimo for his assistant. 
This native was a clever fellow, and as he was the 
first we had ever seen, he gave us a very good 
impression of his people, one in fact that has never 
changed. 

The weather continued stormy for the next two 
days, and frequent visits were made to the highest 
point of the island, on which the old ship's beacon 
was still standing, to watch for signs of improve- 
ment. It was with much disappointment that 



244 W CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

we awoke each morning to find that the wind was 
still blowing hard from the contrary direction. 

On the morning of Tuesday, October the first, 
the wind had subsided sufficiently for us to attempt 
the continuation of our journey, consequently 
we were up before daylight and were ready to 
start shortly after sunrise. 

It was with the greatest care that we chose our 
cotirse southward amongst the many islands and 
shoals bordering the coast. Fortunately, the 
passage was made without mishap. When the 
islands of Aquatuk Bay were reached, the sky 
became very black and it was evident that a 
heavy snowstorm was approaching. Not having 
a reliable ship's compass, we kept within safe 
distance of the islands. 

Soon the storm was upon us, the snow nearly 
blinding us, for it drove straight into our faces, 
making it almost impossible to follow the course. 
Rounding the point of Earthquake Island, it was 
decided to stop for dinner, and await further de- 
velopments, for travelling in a driving snowstorm 
did not appeal to us as being either safe or pleasant. 
The island derives its peculiar name from a legend 
of the Indians, which says that during a battle 
between the native Crees and invading Iroquois 
the earth trembled with the shock of their en- 
counter. 

After a stay of about an hour the weather 
cleared up beautifully, although the wind con- 



FORT GEORGE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 245 

tinued to blow hard from a fair direction. We 
decided to try the sea, and setting out, found it 
to be quite safe. The sail was spread and a fine 
afternoon of travelling began. 

About half past three o'clock the topmast of a 
boat approaching from the south was sighted to 
seaward. As she drew nearer, it was evident that 
her crew had seen us and were trying to head us 
off, which she finally succeeded in doing midway 
between Grey Goose and Comb Hills islands. 
She proved to be The Pride, with Mr. Griffith, 
his wife and child, and the crew aboard. After a 
short conversation, which, owing to the wind 
and the roughness of the water, was held with 
considerable difficulty, we accepted an invitation 
to turn about and accompany them to a harbour 
about two miles to the north, there to camp 
together for the night. 

The evening will be long remembered. We 
were entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Griffith at a 
fine supper of stewed goose, after which we talked 
long into the night, for each party had much to 
tell. The most important news from the South 
was that the steamer Nascopie had arrived at last, 
with a full cargo aboard. The news of the arrival 
of the ship Beothic with the North Railway en- 
gineers aboard, and the schooner with the provi- 
sions for the hydographic party at Rupert House, 
was also interesting. 

The Pride with her party was off early the next 



246 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

morning, for they had a fair wind and were deter- 
mined to reach Fort George with it, if possible. 
As the wind seemed light we started also, although 
it was against us. 

Once outside, the weather proved different than 
anticipated, for the sea was very rough, but we 
kept going for about an hour until nearing Comb 
Hills Islands, when the wind increased in violence 
and the sea grew so wild it became necessary to 
find a harbour and anchor until the storm, which 
was steadily increasing, had ceased. 

It was difficult finding a harbour, for the sea 
was rolling up in great breakers along the shore, 
which everjrwhere seemed shoaly, thus prohibiting 
a landing on the unprotected side, while on the 
protected side, there was not deep enough water 
to give a safe anchorage. At last a place was 
found, protected by a narrow arm of the outside 
island, which had safe water inside, but whose 
entrance was narrow and dangerous. 

The island offered a good site for a camp, for 
although it was treeless, a clump of Arctic willows 
provided protection for the tent. Between the 
camping ground and the water lay an obstacle, 
which proved to be one of the worst we had en- 
countered at any camp. It consisted of a strip 
of soft muck and slippery, slime-covered boulders, 
forming the beach, the slope of which was so 
gradual that when the tide was in, it was impossible 
to float a canoe, if loaded at all, without wading 



FORT GEORGE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 247 

for yards in the mud. By the time we had carried 
all the equipment for the camp across this stretch 
we were glad to lie down on the soft moss beyond 
to rest. 

There was an almost inexhaustible supply of 
wood scattered along the beach, and water in 
abundance in shallow pools on the rocks behind 
the camp. 

The wind continued from the south throughout 
the afternoon and evening. The following day 
proved sunny, but the wind still blew from the 
same quarter. Shortly after sundown it grew 
cloudy and there were brilliant flashes of lightning 
accompanied by distant thunder. 

The wind veered during the night, growing 
stronger, but blowing from a more protected quar- 
ter of the harbour, and a heavy rain set in. The 
weather continued stormy throughout the follow- 
ing day and offered many spectacular scenes, as 
the huge breakers dashed high on the little White 
Bear Island, and other rocks and .shoals exposed 
to the violence of the sea. 

By this time, the days were so short, it seriously 
curtailed the distance that could be accomplished 
by daylight in the best of weather. It was there- 
fore planned not to stop any more for the midday 
meal, and thus make use of every available hour of 
daylight, since it was already our practice to be 
ready to sail at sunrise if possible. To this end 
we took advantage of the delays to prepare such 



248 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

food as might be used without heating, and on 
this occasion made good use of the tin oven for 
that purpose. 

It was on the Comb Hills Islands we got the 
first sight of the migrating flocks of wild geese, an 
omen of the approaching winter season. 

By the following morning the storm had sub- 
sided, but the sky was still very threatening and 
there was a heavy roll on the sea. However, 
about ten o'clock we determined to make a start. 
No one reaHzed how rough the sea was until we 
got out and recognized our old enemies, the 
*' humps,'* looming up against the sky-line. It 
was on occasions like this that the diminutiveness 
of oiu- boat was apparent, and it often seemed 
strange that she did not go under, rather than 
over, the great swells. 

As the day advanced the weather improved, and 
the water grew" calmer. Nothing of note occurred 
until we reached Loon Point, which projects into 
the sea, a few miles north of Paint Hills Islands. 
This locality is very shoaty and we had consider- 
able trouble in picking our way over it on the 
northward journey. 

Nearing the shoals we observed a canoe, with 
several Indians aboard, putting out toward us from 
the shore, and awaited their approach. Coming 
alongside the boat, they made us understand by 
signs, for they could not speak English, that the 
place was a dangerous one and they wished to 



FORT GEORGE TO EAST MAIN RIVER 249 

pilot us through the channel. This was readily 
assented to and the wheel surrendered to the 
elder of the party. 

The contortions our pilot performed were most 
amusing. He assumed the wheel with an air of 
as much importance as if he were taking the 
Mauretania past the bars at Sandy Hook. Grasp- 
ing the wheel with both hands, and bracing himself 
as if to withstand some sudden shock, he would 
bring her sharply around to port and then, in- 
stantly changing, drive her hard to the starboard. 
It is safe to say that within the ensuing six miles, 
the boat travelled twelve. 

The Indians brought us across the shoals in 
safety, never touching bottom, and after passing 
through the tortuous course amongst the Paint 
Hills Islands, the craft was anchored in a well 
protected harbour with deep water. Here there 
was a most beautiful camping ground a short 
distance from the shore, and wood and water 
were plentiful. 

On our arrival the Indians proceeded to build 
a big camp-fire and cut boughs for our beds. In 
order to remunerate them for their unsolicited 
services, which on account of that fact were doubly 
appreciated, we gave them a six-pound can of 
boiled beef, a loaf of bread, and some tea. These 
now constituted our principal provisions, and 
while the gift could hardly be compared to the 
''widow's mite," it was practically all we could 



250 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

spare. These people had been so thoughtful and 
kind, we felt that nothing was too good for them, 
but unfortunately there was no sugar for their 
tea, undoubtedly a great disappointment to them, 
as sugar is their greatest luxury. Our supply of 
this commodity had been exhausted several days 
before. 

We had expected the gift would last our pilots 
for a couple of days, but to our surprise, the whole 
of it was consumed for their evening meal. 

Their hunger appeased, as night was closing 
down; they slipped their canoe into the water, 
shook hands with us, and were soon lost to view 
around the point of the island. 

The following day, we were up and ready to go 
by five o'clock, but with the coming of daylight 
a heavy rain and blow set in, compelling us to 
remain in camp for the day. In the afternoon 
the storm shifted from the east to the north, the 
rain gave place to a driving snowstorm, and the 
sea became very wild. We were indeed thankful 
that the boat was in a well-protected harbour 
and that the camp was a comfortable one. 

The weather continued stormy until the after- 
noon of the second day, when it began to clear up. 
As the wind had almost blown the tent down, we 
decided to take it down and set it up in the lee 
of a large cliff, convenient to the beach, where it 
would be better sheltered from the chilling north 
winds. 



FORT GEORGE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 251 

Throughout our stay at the Paint Hills Islands 
huge flocks of geese were seen on their way south- 
ward. Many of these flocks apparently intended 
to alight on the island, but seeing the tents, they 
would turn in their course and fly to another of 
the group, where freedom from gunshot was more 
certain. 

Toward the end of the day, the clouds lifted 
and the sun shone forth, bright and warm, and 
with the setting of the sun the wind went down, 
and we retired for the night, fully determined, if 
the weather continued favourable, to start by 
daylight the next morning. 

In accordance with our plans, everything was 
aboard the boat and we were ready to start by 
daylight, but the engine balked and delayed us 
until long after sunrise. The weather was fine 
and we started out full of hope for an uninter- 
rupted day's run. Once away from the Paint 
Hills Islands, the course lay in good deep water 
and everything ran smoothly until the Shepherd 
Islands had been passed. There the wind sud- 
denly rose from the west, and it was necessary for 
us so take refuge in the lee of a very high island, 
which lies near the mainland, at the northern 
point of Old Factory Bay. 

Before the shore was reached in the canoe, the 
sky became black with the clouds of an approaching 
storm, and we were soon being beaten by a shower 
of thick driving snow from the west. The island 



252 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

was an ideal place for a camp, with plenty of wood 
and water and a good spot for tents. The harbour 
was well protected from the west, but unfor- 
tunately totally unprotected from the north, and 
remembering from previous experiences that the 
storms from the south usually veered to the north 
or north-west before they completely spent their 
violence, we were afraid to remain at the island, 
should any opportunity of escape be offered by a 
period of calm. 

Having partaken of our dinner, and loaded the 
kit into the boat, ready to leave on a moment's 
notice, we ascended the hill and watched for signs 
of the abatement of the storm. At last, the snow 
stopped, and although the wind seemed strong, it 
appeared to be dying down, so we determined 
to make a dash for a safer harbour, on the other 
side of Old Factory Bay. 

We were hardly out of the shelter of the island 
when the storm broke out afresh. The wind blew 
in strong squalls, accompanied by thick flurries 
of snow. For a few minutes we would see the 
mainland, only to lose sight of it again for a like 
length of time. It was too late to turn back so 
we kept doggedly ahead, determined at least to 
reach the other side of the bay. 

At last it was discovered, after a flurry of snow 
had ceased, that we were approaching what ap- 
peared to be the south point of the bay. We 
endeavoured to round the point and reach the 



FORT GEORGE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 253 

protection of Cape Hope Islands. The sea proved 
too rough to face, so we turned back, and after 
some searching found a fine harbour, with deep 
water and splendidly protected. 

To our surprise and delight, there was an Indian 
camp in the bush near the shore, the first human 
habitation seen in several days. It had been a 
trying day of disappointment and danger, and as 
we were stopping early, there was plenty of time 
to make a comfortable camp. The shores were 
thickly wooded with spruce, offering the snug 
protection that can only be obtained in a green 
bush. 

Wood and water were difficult to obtain owing 
to the Indian camp at the place. There was 
practically no dry wood left in the neighbourhood, 
and to obtain any we had to cut down some short, 
dry stumps, which were completely overgrown 
with underbrush. It was slow, wet work amongst 
the dripping willows, and it was dark before there 
was sufficient cut to last throughout the evening 
and to cook the breakfast the next morning. 
The water was plentiful, but had to be carried for 
several hundred yards through the thick bush, 
no easy job. 

The Indians whose wigwam we had seen were 
out on a hunting expedition, but returned shortly 
before dark. A visit was paid them in order to 
get fish or fowl, if possible, for the provisions were 
very low at that time. They had but few fish 



254 ^^ CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

on hand and these were smoked, but we gladly 
bought some and had them for our supper. 

The following morning was dark and threatened 
storm. The breakfast consisted of boiled flour, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, the only provisions 
left in our larder. After breakfast we ascended 
a nearby hill to have a look at the sea. There 
was but a slight wind, although the result of the 
storm was still in evidence by the large swells 
that came from seaward. 

We hesitated for a time, but spurred on by that 
irresistible desire for a square meal, when it seems 
impossible to get one, eventually made a start. 
Once out of the harbour, it was seen that instead 
of being at the south side of Old Factory Bay, 
we had only entered it and were camped near the 
mouth of Old Factory River, on one of a perfect 
maze of islands. The sea became smoother as 
the day advanced and the travelling was good until 
about noon. 

While we were passing Cape Hope Islands, the 
wind began to rise. There was nothing to eat 
aboard, so we determined not to stop until safe 
within the Eastmain River. As the shoaly coast 
was approached, in the vicinity of the river mouth, 
the waves began to break and gave us another 
anxious time. It was a very difficult matter to 
thread our way through the shoals that encompass 
the north entrance, but at last we were safe within 
the river, and knew that even if the bad weather 



FORT GEORGE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 255 

detained us at this point until winter really set 
in, we were sure of food in plenty, and shelter 
until such time as it was possible to get out with 
dog teams. 

In our haste to reach the Post, we turned across 
the river too quickly and were soon aground on 
the sandbar. The tide was on the ebb, and every 
minute meant that the boat would be more difficult 
to release. By dint of hard labour she was even- 
tually poled out into the channel and we arrived 
at our destination shortly after. 

We were greeted at the landing by Mr. Jobson, 
and several of the Post Indians. The quiet of the 
place presented a striking contrast to the busy 
activity that had characterized it during our visit 
while going north. Now, instead of the wigwam 
village on the field to the west of the Post houses, 
there were only a few piles of poles and here and 
there a cache of such articles as would not be 
required during the winter. 

All the hunters were either goose hunting or had 
obtained winter provisions and were on their way 
to the hunting grounds. The Post of the French 
Company was in the same condition. 

While anchoring we noticed what looked like 
a new sandbar, uncovered by the receding tide 
and apparently directly in front of the Revillon 
Freres' dock, where the sailboat was accustomed 
to tie up and discharge her cargo. Upon ques- 
tioning Mr. Jobson about it, we learned that it 



256 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

was the result of a landslide that had completely 
carried away the store and threatened, also, to 
wreck the house. Fortunately the Factor had 
seen the approach of the trouble and had removed 
all of the supplies to a place of safety, thus pre- 
venting a very serious loss. 

We set up our camp at the top of the river bank 
near the Hudson's Bay Company's store and then 
procured some much-needed food. With canned 
sausages, corn syrup, and pancakes we indulged 
in a feast and only stopped when the utmost limit 
of our capacities had been reached. 

That night the Husky dogs attended to their 
usual business. They tore through the tent, 
seized the balance of our late purchases, including 
five pounds of lard and some butter, and departed 
for parts unknown. 

The next morning, the Factor, on being informed 
of our loss, offered us the use of the now deserted 
carpenter shop as a dwelling. We gladly accepted 
and soon had it fixed up very comfortably with 
tarpaulins on the floors and a table and chairs by 
way of luxury. 

We arrived at the Post on October the ninth 
and were doomed to stay over a week, despite the 
fact that indications pointed to the early coming 
of winter. We had agreed to wait at this point 
until the other party arrived, and in the meantime 
prepare the other motor boat so that it might 
be taken back to Moose Factory by them. The 



FORT GEORGE TO EASTMAIN RIVER 257 

first two days were fine, but the breeze was not 
favourable for the York boat. The next four 
were a succession of storms and strong winds, so 
that there was no hope of the other party making 
any progress whatever. 

It was a dreary time for us, uncertain as to the 
fate of our men, and faced with the probability 
of two months' delay, which would seriously 
affect our business at home and be a terrible source 
of worry to friends and relatives, who had no 
means of ascertaining our whereabouts. 

It was wintry weather, cold, driving rain being 
followed by snow, the first to really accumulate 
on the ground. On October the fifteenth, the 
first hard frost occurred, the ground being frozen. 

In the meantime the other motor boat had been 
repaired and was ready to be launched should 
the other party arrive. 

Some evenings were spent pleasantly with the 
Factors, listening to their stories or their gramo- 
phones. On others, by way of a change, we 
would invite them to a spread of our own, and 
treat them to boiled pudding, tarts, jellies, and 
other delicacies, to which their Indian cooks do 
not aspire. Whether it was from politeness or 
appreciation we do not know, but these products 
of our humble skill always disappeared rapidly. 
It was quite evident that even a lengthy stay in 
the bush, with nothing but plain food, does not 
deprive a man of his love for the ''frills.'* 
17 



CHAPTER XIX 



Eastmain River to "Wood Island 




^^ARLY during our stay at the East- 
main Post, Mac was sent with an 
Indian guide to retrace the course 
as far as Cape Hope Islands in 
search of the York boat party, 
but they returned without tidings of them. A 
few days later some Indians brought news of 
having seen The Pride, of Fort George, taking the 
course to Charlton Island. 

As the days passed by and several periods of 
fair wind offered the York boat a chance to reach 
the Post, if she were coming at all, we decided 
that her crew must have left her in winter quarters 
at Fort George, and gone to Charlton on The Pride, 
From there, we supposed, they would take the 
Inenew for Moose Factory, where it goes to winter 
at the close of the season. 

On Wednesday, October the sixteenth, the 
sun was seen for the first time in several days, and, 
hoping that a period of good weather was setting 
in, we prepared for a dash to Moose Factory while 
it lasted. 
Though there was still doubt as to whether the 

258 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO JVOOD ISLAND 259 

other party had preceded us to Moose Factory, 
it was certain we could be of little service to them, 
and that it would be to the mutual interest of both 
parties for us to reach the railway before the rivers 
would freeze up and report to those who were 
interested in their welfare. 

On the following day the wind and weather 
continued favourable and gave us hope that the 
long-looked-for spell of good weather had arrived, 
and that we were to have an uninterrupted trip to 
Moose Factory. 

When our proposed departure became known, 
we were invited to bring some of the fowls, that 
had been given us previously, to have them roasted 
in the factory kitchen, for the journey. The post 
people gave us many other presents of game, etc., 
so that we were ready to depart with a well 
stocked larder. 

Our final meal was partaken of in the cozy little 
shop which had been our home for the past nine 
days. Two or three of the dogs that had guarded 
our door very faithfully were given a good farewell 
meal, also. Sarah had been the favourite and she 
possibly fared better during our stay than she 
had ever done before or probably would ever do 
again. 

Despite the fact that Sarah had become quite 
domesticated, the inherent qualities of the Husky 
dog still showed up in many of her propensities. 
That of stealing was, of course, the most prominent, 



26o IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

but fighting was no mean second. The appear- 
ing of another dog at the door, which she seemed 
to look upon as an intrusion, was the occasion 
for the most wicked snarls that one could con- 
ceive of. 

On our last day at the Post, she was brought 
into the house to be fed, that she might have 
greater freedom from the attacks of the other dogs. 
The meal consisted of a large panful of the remains 
of a stewed duck in thick gravy. Being very timid 
of accepting the meal inside the house, no doubt 
fearing treachery, she picked up the pan in her 
mouth and made for the door, which was partially 
open. 

When on our visit there earlier in the season, we 
had received the story that a dog had carried a 
kettleful of beans from our tent with skepticism, 
but after Sarah's feat the story seemed quite 
plausible. 

When the time for our departure had arrived, 
although anxious to get home, we found it hard 
to part from the people at the Posts who had been 
so considerate of our welfare and had shown us so 
much genuine kindness. 

Good-byes said, we weighed anchor at half 
past one, on October the seventeenth, despite the 
protests of our friends at the Posts, who believed 
that the water was much too rough for safe travel- 
ling in the small craft. As long as we could see 
them, they were watching our progress down the 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO WOOD ISLAND 261 

river. We were determined to proceed at least to 
Governor Island at the mouth of the river, where 
there was an excellent harbour and a good camping 
place. It was intended to take advantage of these 
if the sea outside was found to be too rough for 
further progress. 

On reaching the open sea it proved to be quite 
rough, but knowing that the wind had been blow- 
ing from the same direction and with the same 
force throughout , the day, and that it was highly 
improbable any material change would occur 
before sunset, and having information of a good 
harbour and camping place near Loon Point, about 
twenty miles distant, we decided to attempt 
reaching it before dark. 

The matter of knowing the location of good 
harbours and camps by the traveller in this country 
is one of equal importance to that of knowing the 
best hotels, when he tours in civilization. 

Our progress was considerably retarded by the 
strong west wind, and although the sea remained 
in the same condition we were forced to seek a 
harbour, other than the one we expected to reach, 
owing to the approaching darkness. 

An attempt was made to get into the lee of 
several islands, but it was impossible to do so, 
owing to the shallowness of the water. After 
several attempts we managed to find a partially 
protected bay to the north of Partridge Point, 
where we were compelled to anchor several 



262 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

hundred yards out from the shore. A fine camp 
was set up in a short time and an abundance of 
good water and wood found. Thus comfortably- 
housed for the night, there was a feeHng of great 
satisfaction in knowing that we were again en route 
for home, despite the roughness of the travelHng. 
We reaHzed that there was Httle hope for improve- 
ment in the weather and that it was necessary to 
travel when at all possible. 

The following morning we were off by sunrise. 
Like the day before, it was beautiful, warm, and 
clear, so warm, in fact, we had to remove our coats 
as the sun rose higher in the sky. Much to our 
surprise the wind entirely abated, and a few 
hours later, on reaching the north side of Boat- 
swain Bay, the water was an oily calm. 

While passing the familiar bouldery shore of 
McFarlane Island, a slight breeze causing a 
ripple on the water was noticed, which before we 
had gotten halfway across the bay had developed 
into a regular windstorm, although the sky was 
practically cloudless. The shallowness of the water 
in the bay permitted the quick rising of a choppy 
sea, and for some time it was difficult to weather 
it. Seeking protection, we turned the boat towards 
one of the islands to the west of Sherrick Mount, 
but after a time it was thought impossible to 
reach it, and it was turned again toward the main- 
land, in the hope of finding a projecting point 
behind which shelter could be obtained. . ~ 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO WOOD ISLAND 263 

Nearing the shore we saw no place of safety 
and knew that our only salvation lay in reaching 
one of the islands. This was again attempted and 
finally accomplished, after an exciting conflict 
with the waves. The island happened to be the 
one used by the crews of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany's boats when travelling between Rupert 
House and Eastmain River. We anchored in a 
small harbour on the west side and camped on the 
beach. There was an abundance of driftwood 
along the shore and fresh water a short distance 
back on the rocks. 

During the night the wind veered to the west 
and blew a gale accompanied by a heavy rain. We 
were awakened early in the morning by the pound- 
ing of a heavy surf, almost at the very door of the 
tent. With the utmost haste we removed our 
valuables to a place of safety, and then confined 
our attentions to the boat, which was in a very 
dangerous position. After some deliberation we 
decided that it was not safe to leave her unpro- 
tected any longer and that an attempt to move her 
into a place of safety, on the lee side of the island, 
must be made at once. 

It was a thrilling moment as we rushed into the 
surf with the canoe, and seizing a favourable 
opportunity after a large comber had passed, 
jumped into it and paddled with all our might 
and main in the direction of the boat. It was a 
hard pull as weU as an exciting one, for it was 



264 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

impossible to hold the canoe against the wind and 
prevent it from taking water from the large 
breakers as they passed. 

Having reached the boat, the next difficulty- 
was to board her, for when she was up we were 
down, and vice versa. This was accomplished 
after some skilful manoeuvring. The boat had not 
taken any water so that there was little difficulty 
in getting the engine started. It was no easy 
matter to avoid being driven on to the immense 
rocks that lined the beach while attempting to 
turn out of the harbour against the wind. 

Then began one of the most exciting experiences 
of our lives as we started to run dead ahead of the 
wind. Huge waves curled up at the stern and 
dashed their foam and spray over us. Rising with 
a slow, heavy motion to the crest of the wave, the 
boat would halt, as though seized by some invisible 
force and held for an instant, then shoot down 
into the trough with the speed of an express train, 
tossing the spray in all directions. Fortunately 
we had bailed out the water from the canoe before 
starting the engine, for by the time we had reached 
quiet water on the lee side of the island, it was half 
full again. 

With the boat in safety, our next thought was 
for the tent and other valuables on the beach. 
Arriving at the camp, we found the water quite 
up to the tent door and were forced to move the 
contents that had been left in it. 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO WOOD ISLAND 265 

When everything was in safety, we set out to the 
opposite side of the island to find a place for the 
tents. There we found the regular camping ground 
of the boat crews, and a beautiful spot it was, 
situated in a thick grove of spruce and balm-of- 
Gilead. After the tents were set up a large opening 
was cleared to the water's edge, to permit of our 
seeing the boat from the camp. This done, we 
fancied it to be the coziest camp of the whole trip. 
It certainly was an ideal spot and one that would 
have appealed to the summer camper in more 
urban communities. 

There had been so much demand of late for the 
use of the collapsible stove, all the cooking being 
done on it, that it was almost burnt out, and this, 
combined with the effect of weather and abuse of 
travel, had rendered it really unfit for further 
service. It would, of course, have been impossible 
to get along without one, so a makeshift was 
devised from the resources at hand. 

For that purpose we chose a couple of empty 
gasoline cans, cut an end out of each, and telescoped 
them. With the can opener, a circular hole was 
cut in the end of one of the cans, and a door for 
this opening made from one of the discarded ends. 
A hole in the side of one can, fitted with a small 
tin collar, served as the stovepipe hole. The stove 
complete, with five lengths of pipe, would not have 
weighed more than ten pounds. When in use it 
was set up on stones or pegs, in lieu of legs, and 



266 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

answered our purpose as well as its more costly 
predecessor. 

As the storm continued throughout the day and 
during the succeeding night, our minds were made 
up to the fact that we would have to give up all 
hope of reaching Moose Factory by the projected 
route. This route, the one taken by the Post 
boats, leads from Sherrick Mount to Wood Island, 
a cut of about eight miles, and thence down the 
west coast of Ministikawatin to Hannah Bay. 
This is a very dangerous coast in the best of 
seasons, and it seemed far too risky a venture to 
attempt a passage when good weather was the 
exception. 

It was therefore decided that if the next day 
proved stormy, we would abandon our original 
plans and proceed to Rupert House. In the event 
of our being unable to secure a guide to accom- 
pany us along the south shore to Moose Factory, 
we would beach the boat and remain there until 
the ice was strong enough to permit of walking 
across, and thence up the Abitibi River to the 
railroad. Thus, the morrow would decide the 
fate of the following two or three months. 

The next morning the wind was still blowing 
and the sea very rough. We went to the usual 
point of observation as soon as it was light enough 
to see clearly. Off to the west lay the low, dark 
outline of Wood Island, and to the south of it, the 
dim profile of Ministikawatin, which divides 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO WOOD ISLAND 267 

Rupert from Hannah Bay. Directly to the south 
could be seen Stag Island, the headquarters of the 
Hydrographic Survey party, while eastward 
loomed Sherrick Mount, outlined against the 
stormy sky. Turning our gaze northward, nothing 
met our eyes at first, save a turbulent sea dashing 
itself into spray on the jagged rocks. Gradually a 
small streak of clear sky appeared along the 
horizon. 

The question now was whether we were to make 
a start for Moose Factory or for Rupert House 
when it was calm enough to leave the island. The 
former with its attendant risk and danger, if made 
successfully, offered the probable reward of 
reaching home within a month. The latter, with 
its element of security, meant in all probability 
detainment for several months and consequent 
anxiety at home. 

One can picture how anxiously we watched for 
the enlargement of that strip of blue sky, and our 
hopes were rewarded from time to time as we 
made our way to the point of observation. By 
noon the sky was rapidly clearing, the wind had 
dropped, and the waves ceased to break, conse- 
quently we prepared to make a start for Wood 
Island. At half past three we weighed anchor 
and put out to sea. Just then the sun burst forth 
and filled us with high hopes for the ultimate 
success of our undertaking, which even the great 
rolling swells could not dampen. 



268 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

The eastern end of Wood Island was reached by 
five o'clock, but nowhere could a harbour be found 
on account of its low, shoaly shores. We coasted 
along the south side of the island for a distance of 
several miles, searching for an anchoring place, 
and at last, as it was growing dark, had to anchor 
in an unprotected place about a quarter of a mile 
distant from the shore. The tide was on the ebb, 
and it was with difficulty that a landing was 
effected with the canoe, the water being so shallow 
it was necessary to wade and pull the canoe a long 
distance. 

It was almost dark when the camp was set up 
on a sandy beach at the foot of a high bank. 
Fortunately we had brought a kettle of water 
from the other island, and were able to make it do 
for supper, but having eaten some salty food all 
went to bed thirsty, for it was impossible to find 
more water in the dark. 

Shortly after landing, the wind rose and the 
boat began to toss in a lively fashion. We felt 
that it was not safe to leave it, with most of the 
provisions aboard, in such an unprotected place, 
for in case of its being swamped and the food wet, 
our position might prove serious, so far from shore 
and on an island seldom visited at that time of the 
year. Hence, it was deemed advisable to return 
to the boat and bring back a supply of food, suffi- 
cient to last for some time, in case of accident. 

The tide was very low and it was with difficulty 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO WOOD ISLAND 269 

that the canoe was carried over the slimy boulder 
beach and launched in the fast receding water. 
By this time the sea had become quite rough, and 
it was no easy matter to place weighty parcels of 
food in the canoe. When we returned to the shore, 
the heavily laden canoe went aground several 
hundred yards from the camp, so the load had to be 
carried on our backs over the slippery boulders, 
involving no little risk of broken or sprained limbs. 

Everything was gotten to the camp without 
accident ; the effects of the storm were feared much 
less than if only a limited supply of provisions 
had been ashore, as was the case when we first 
landed. 

The night was certainly a wild one and caused 
us to rise many times and 'peer anxiously out into 
the darkness to see if the boat was safe at anchor. 
Much of our rest was broken during these stormy 
nights by the constant watching of the boat, and 
we began to look forward to the time when we 
would be far away from the sea, and there would 
be no craft to worry about. 

The following morning continued stormy, and 
it was evident it would be impossible to travel, 
consequently we did not rise until daylight. Being 
still very thirsty and no fresh water being in sight, 
we dressed fully and prepared to make a search 
for some. Starting off with a couple of pails, we 
scaled the almost vertical hill behind the camp and 
began a tramp through the woods, hoping that 



270 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

when the highest point was reached some bare 
rocks might be found on which there would be 
pools of water. 

After walking for a mile or more, it became 
evident that we were going down towards the sea 
on the north side, so we returned to the south side 
of the island by a circuitous route, but found no 
water. When the beach was reached, we went 
westward along it, hoping to find a stream enter- 
ing the sea. We pursued this course without 
finding water for three miles, until near the western 
extremity of the island a marshy spot was seen, 
covered with a couple of feet of water, which on 
being tested proved to be fresh. 

It was a most tantalizing position to be as 
thirsty as we were, and yet unable to drink the 
water until it was carried a distance of three 
miles or more and then boiled, for it was 
stagnant. 

The camp was reached shortly before noon. The 
fire was soon ablaze and the water brought to a 
boil. After a good long drink we prepared break- 
fast, for the walk had certainly given us good 
appetites. It is needless to say that the water was 
used with the greatest care, realizing as we did 
that our kettles could not be replenished without 
our taking another two hours' walk. 

In the afternoon the storm slackened. Knowing 
that the boat had been aground at low tide and 
fearing a recurrence of the storm, we thought it 



EASTMAIN RIVER TO WOOD ISLAND 271 

advisable to move her farther from land and into 
deeper water. It was necessary to anchor her 
between a half and three quarters of a mile from 
shore in order to have a depth of five feet of water 
at low tide. 




CHAPTER XX 

"Wood Island to Moose Factory 

HE storm at Wood Island lasted only- 
one day and on the morning of 
October the twenty-second the 
wind had ceased and the sky was 
quite clear. We put out to the boat 
with the load at sunrise, but before it was reached 
signs of an approaching storm were noticed, 
causing some doubt as to whether it were safe to 
attempt the run across to the mainland, about 
eight miles, or not. 

Unfortunately, the engine gave us trouble, and 
fully three quarters of an hour elapsed before we 
could weigh anchor. By this time the sky was 
completely overcast and the wind rising. Had we 
been ashore, we would certainly have remained 
there, but having made the start, intended if the 
sea grew too rough to turn back into the lee of 
Wood Island. We kept going ahead without 
shipping much water until fully halfway across, 
and then realized that it would be just as dangerous 
to go back as to go forward. The waves were very 
choppy, but the boat seemed to throw them off 
like a duck. 

272 



fVOOD ISLAND TO MOOSE FACTORY 273 

As the mainland was approached, the sea in- 
creased in roughness owing to its shoaly charac- 
ter. At last we rounded Sawayan Point and were 
once more in shelter. Navigating the waters 
around the point was dangerous business, for it 
was surrounded by a maze of rocky shoals, only 
submerged at high tide, but once behind it, al- 
though not protected from the wind to much ex- 
tent, the point acted as a breakwater for the little 
harbour. 

The excitement of the crossing on such a rough 
sea was enough for one day. The tents were set 
up on an old camp site, a soft grassy spot amongst 
the boulders. It seemed a discouraging ending 
to our proposed uninterrupted trip to Moose 
Factory, as the threatening clouds rushed swiftly 
across the sky, but we were determined to make 
the best of it. 

Leaving camp shortly after dinner, we resolved 
to find the Indians, if there were any camped in 
the neighbourhood, as the Post people had in- 
formed us, hoping to secure a guide from among 
them to accompany us to Moose Factory. After 
roimding the first point of the mainland, to the 
west of the camp, it was thought we could discern 
an encampment on the next point, fully three miles 
ahead of us. Bringing our glass into requisition, 
the large, white object looked very much like a 
good-sized marquee. 

Feeling very much encouraged, we pursued our 
18 



274 W CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

way around the edge of a deep bay, which extended 
southward into the mainland. Coming around 
this, which, by the way, was no easy thing to do 
on account of its swampy shore, we reached a 
higher point and again took observations. This 
time we were almost convinced that the object 
was a tent and actually thought we saw people 
moving around it. 

Crossing several little streams that led from 
small pools at the edge of the bush, we plodded 
onward, and while doing so started up several 
flocks of geese. Although we had a rifle with us, 
the time was too short to do any shooting for it 
was growing late. Coming up again to another 
high spot, we turned our glasses on the point 
ahead of us. This time the object, sad to say, did 
not resemble a tent as much as it had from farther 
away. 

Going a little farther still to where there were 
some immense boulders, we climbed up on top of 
themx and had a last look, a good long one, which 
sufficed to show that what we had hoped would 
lead to a means of assistance, was really nothing 
more than a big rock in the midst of a few scattered 
trees. 

We at once began to retrace our steps. The 
tide had been going out ever since we had left the 
camp, and what had been a large bay on the way 
out was entirely devoid of water on our return, 
making it possible to cross over on the hard sandy 



fVOOD ISLAND TO MOOSE FACTORY 275 

bottom without any difficulty. This shortened 
the trip fully a mile. 

Reaching the camp at dark, we found Mac had 
returned from a like expedition in the opposite 
direction, and was resting after his long walk. 
He had found no Indians, but something was 
pleasing him very much. What it was we could 
not tell at the moment, but later on he produced 
a fine pair of partridges. While the fire was being 
made and the birds prepared for supper, plans 
for the continuation of the journey were discussed. 
The next day brought but a repetition of the bad 
weather and was much too stormy to permit of 
our starting out. 

In the afternoon the sky cleared up and the 
sun came out. Making a trip to the Hydrographic 
tower near by, from which a good view of the sea 
could be had, we fancied that a boat was approach- 
ing us from the direction of Wood Island. The 
object was watched for some time, with the hope 
that it might be the York boat, but it proved to 
be nothing more than a clump of trees standing 
well out from a sandbank on the island. 

The moon was now about at the full and rose 
beautifully bright that night, a strong temptation 
to travel when it was well up. The danger of 
striking an unseen reef caused us to abandon the 
idea and wait for daylight, hoping that the good 
weather might continue on the following day. 

About three o'clock in the morning, Mac came 



276 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

to the tent door and called, saying that it was light 
as day and he thought we should get up and start. 
We were so anxious to take advantage of any good 
weather, either by day or night, that assent was 
readily given to the proposal. 

It was a long job getting breakfast, breaking 
camp, and loading the dunnage into the boat. 
The tide was out and everything had to be carried 
over a long stretch of slippery boulders to reach 
the water's edge. When at last the canoe was 
loaded, the water was too shallow to float it, and we 
had to wade out and pull it along to deeper water. 

By the time the boat was reached the moon was 
almost setting, and before the anchor was raised, 
it had gone below the horizon. It was five o'clock 
and in another hour there would be signs of 
approaching daylight. After some discussion it 
was thought that with careful steering we could 
go in the darkness and still keep off the shoals and 
reefs. One took the wheel, another the engine, 
and a third stood on the foredeck, sounding with a 
twelve-foot pole. 

Everything went along smoothly for a time, 
but we were soon in a maze of islands, which were 
really heaps of boulders only exposed at low tide. 
The engine compartment was lighted by an 
electric lamp and there was also a light on the 
foremast, but the latter having no reflector, 
prevented us from seeing very far out into the 
darkness, and was accordingly removed. 



IVOOD ISLAND TO MOOSE FACTORY 277 

We were running quietly along at a rate of 
about six miles per hour, when the man at the 
wheel called out to the one taking the soundings 
that he thought there were rocks ahead. No 
sooner had the warning been given, than crash! 
went the boat against a rock. All hands were 
thrown violently by the shock, and before the 
engine could be stopped, she struck again with a 
terrible rasping sound. 

For the first time in our experience we had 
really been "on the rocks." The force of the 
engine drove the boat forward and she was in 
deep water again. A hasty examination proved 
her hull to be undamaged. Believing that it had 
only been the shoe at the stern that had struck, 
we started up the engine again, but the man at the 
wheel found he could control the boat no longer, 
and investigation proved that the rudder post had 
been broken off, thus completely disabling the 
steering gear. 

A piece of cod line was attached to each side of 
the rudder and an attempt made to use it as a 
jury rudder, but the line proved too weak, and 
we had to find some other method of steering, or 
else go ashore and make repairs. By this time it 
was quite light and the first signs of sunrise were 
appearing in the sky. 

With the rising of the sun came a slight breeze 
and evidences of a perfect day. It was too good 
weather to miss, so we tried steering with a short 



278 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

oar lashed to the stern thwart. It was impossible 
with the small leverage available to hold the oar 
in the water with the engine going at full speed, for 
the torque of the propeller tended to drive it away 
from the stern. It was found that with both sails 
up and the engine at half speed we could make good 
progress and steer well enough, by dint of the 
expenditure of a plenteous supply of energy. 

A small island near the shore came in sight and 
it was thought best to make for it and replace the 
broken rudder by the spare one that was aboard. 
To do this, it would be necessary to beach the 
boat and remain over until the next tide, in order 
to float her again. 

The island proved destitute of water, so it was 
decided to push ahead and try to reach the next 
point, on which there was another Hydrographic 
tower. Pushing off from the island with our 
canvas set to the breeze, we sailed ahead, slow to 
be sure, but every mile covered brought us that 
much nearer our destination. 

About ten o'clock the tower was reached and we 
stopped to make repairs. To do this, everything 
had to be taken from the boat and carried to the 
top of a rise on the shore, two or three hundred 
feet back from the water. Encouraged by the 
good weather, we determined to make a great 
effort to replace the rudder without taking the 
boat out of the water, hoping still to get a few 
miles ahead before dark. 



IVOOD ISLAND TO MOOSE FACTORY 279 



The boat was unloaded and brought into the 
shallow water bordering the beach, and then the 
bow weighted down with stones until the stern 
stood well out of the water. To replace the rudder 
was not such an easy matter as was supposed, for 
those doing it had to stand waist-deep in the cold 
water for a couple of hours, and it was almost 
dark before the work was finished. 

At lunch time one of the tents was erected, but 
the other had to be set up in the dark, after supper 
was over. It was quite late when everything was 
done up for the night. We had had some difiQculty 
finding water on landing, walking a considerable 
distance into the bush before a pool was found. 
Another visit to the source of supply to obtain a 
further quantity of water was necessary before 
retiring, and wood was cut for the morning fire, 
for it was hoped to leave by daylight, as the indica- 
tions gave promise of fair weather, and if such 
were the case, we expected to cross Hannah Bay. 
This would be the most dangerous run of the trip. 
It would take several hours to do it, and for weeks 
there had hardly been such a period of time in 
which there had not been rough and dangerous 
weather. 

About one o^clock in the morning, we were 
surprised to hear someone asking at the other 
tent, "Whose camp is this?" Mac, who occupied 
it, answered the query and a short conversation 
followed. The stranger proved to be Mr. McCall 



280 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

of the North Railway Company at Rupert House, 
en route for Montreal by way of Moose Factory. 
He stated he had left Rupert House about nine 
o'clock the morning before, alone in his little 
sponson canoe, and had thus travelled, with the 
help of a small sail, a distance of forty miles in 
about fifteen hours. Mac invited him to share his 
tent for the balance of the night, which he was 
only too glad to do. 

The next morning, we were up at four o'clock 
and had our introduction to the newcomer. He 
was plied with many questions as we ate our 
breakfast together, especially as to the progress of 
the railway, and the latest news from Rupert 
House. He seemed to feel quite proud of his 
previous day's travel, and said that the people of 
Rupert House prophesied that he would never 
reach Moose Factory. Quite unheedful of their 
predictions, he set out alone. Money, he said, 
would not tempt any Indian to accompany him 
on the journey. 

The incident was another proof of the white 
man's superiority over the Indian. The latter 
will certainly run no risks, and as a rtile, where 
there is the slightest danger, money is no induce- 
ment to him. If Columbus had been an Indian, he 
w^ould never have discovered America. 

We offered to take Mr. McCall in our boat and 
tow his canoe behind ours, which invitation he 
gladly accepted. Daylight seemed long in coming 



IVOOD ISLAND TO MOOSE FACTORY 281 

and there was a heavy fog out over the water. 
The tide was quite low, so we had to carry the 
dunnage a long way to the boat, over a beach of 
slippery boulders. Every time one would turn to 
look he would see somebody down and struggling 
to regain his feet. Some of the party carried marks 
from that experience for several days. 

On account of the lowness of the tide, it was 
very difficult to find a channel for the boat. There 
were miles of shoals protruding out of the water 
and forming a chain of islands, running parallel 
to the mainland. Steering our course inside of the 
shoals, on account of the fog, we travelled ahead 
for three or four miles, until it was found that they 
became connected to the mainland, and there was 
no opening through which the boat might pass. 
It was necessary to retrace our course and go 
outside of the islands. 

The cotu-se taken was several miles off the 
mainland, but the water was so shallow that it was 
necessary to take soundings as we went ahead. 
Soon the wind rose and the fog cleared so that we 
could see the mainland plainly. The wind grew 
very strong and a heavy sea was soon running. 
The outlook was rather serious, for no matter how 
much we wanted to land, there was no possible 
way of reaching the shore on account of the shoals, 
and no canoe cotild have weathered the sea. The 
waves were running very high, and often dashed 
completely over the boat. At times, the boat 



282 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

would be raised high on her beam ends, only to 
fall with a crash into the trough of the wave, 
throwing out a sheet of spray to drench the unfor- 
tunate helmsman. 

East Point was now the desired haven of safety, 
for someone had told us there was a harbour in that 
vicinity. When the point came into view, the 
storm was at its worst. The boat was weathering 
all that it possibly could, and it was evident that 
if the gale increased as much in the next hour as 
it had in the past one oiu* chances of escape were 
very small. 

Nowhere did we see any place that would afford 
shelter, and to have attempted a landing would 
have been madness. Rounding the point, we saw 
some low-lying islands, practically shoals, to our 
right, and believed they were the Plover Islands, 
although the map showed them to be several miles 
south of the point. 

Cautiously sounding and keeping a strict look- 
out, we picked a channel amongst the shoals and 
finally anchored in the lee of the upper island. It 
was two o'clock by this time, and we were begin- 
ning to feel the pangs of hunger, not having eaten 
anything since half past four in the morning. The 
provisions and other necessities were soon gotten 
ashore. 

The tide was going out rapidly and it was neces- 
sary to move the boat into deeper water so that 
she would not be aground if we wanted to make an 



IVOOD ISLAND TO MOOSE FACTORY 283 

early start in the morning. In spite of this, Mac 
remained ashore to further the preparations for 
the approaching meal until the boat was fast 
aground and could not be moved. This meant 
that all would have to be up for some time during 
the middle of the night, watching for the proper 
height of tide and then to move the boat out into 
deeper water. 

We retired early so as to get as much rest as 
possible, but arose at midnight to watch the tide. 
By one o'clock it was high enough and the balance 
of the party were called to help pole the boat out 
into deep water. After taking her about half a 
mile from the island, we anchored her in about 
eight feet of water, the deepest to be found. It 
was a beautiful night, and there was a fine bright 
moon. 

The next morning, breakfast was eaten before 
daylight and we commenced carrying the outfit 
over the boulders to the east end of the island, where 
it was intended to load the canoes. By sunrise 
this was completed and a start made for the boat. 
The sky was cloudless and there was every indica- 
tion of a fine day. However, weather conditions 
do not take long to change in James Bay. 

Much to our surprise when the boat was reached, 
it was found to be aground at the stern. The tide 
was low and it would be fully an hour before it 
would rise sufficiently to float her. There was 
nothing that could be done but wait patiently. 



284 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

That hour seemed like two, and we scarcely took 
our eyes off the sky and the water, dreading the 
approach of clouds and wind. 

In an hour we were off under the most favourable 
conditions. Once away from the shoals, which, 
by the way, extend outward from the mainland a 
distance of two or three miles, and as far south- 
ward as the eye could see, we headed straight 
across the Bay to Big Stone, on the west coast. 
It was apparent that under favourable conditions, 
Moose Factory would be reached before nightfall. 

This was the twenty-sixth of October, nearly 
two months since we left Clark Island, during 
which there had been almost continuous stormy 
weather. Had the conditions been normal we 
should have made the journey easily in fifteen 
days. 

It was on this course that our party, returning 
from the last trip, was nearly wrecked. Early in 
September they had left for Moose Factory, after 
landing us on Strutton Island, from whence we 
returned to St. Johns, Newfoundland, by steamer. 
Contrary to our orders, the party stopped at 
Charlton Island and spent a week there. The 
weather during that period was the most beautiful 
imaginable. Failing to take advantage of this, 
they were caught in the equinoctial gales, and 
narrowly escaped being driven ashore in Hannah 
Bay, a bad ending to a most delightful journey. 
They managed to weather it, after a rough time, 



PFOOD ISLAND TO MOOSE FACTORY 285 

and reached the Post none the worse for their 
thrilHng experience. 

As we proceeded toward Big Stone, the day 
became quite warm, and there was scarcely a 
ripple on the water. Soon the shoaly island off 
Big Stone came into view and a little later, when 
about halfway across, it became evident there 
could be no retreat. Everything was going so 
beautifully, it was deemed quite prudent to cele- 
brate the occasion with a real good lunch, the very 
best our larder would permit. 

When the low outline of the west coast of the 
Bay first came into view, we could not refrain a 
few hearty cheers, for it seemed practically assured 
that all dangers were past. Once across, the only 
thing that remained to be done was to follow the 
shore and watch for the mouth of the Moose River, 
which enters the Bay about fifteen miles from Big 
Stone. 

It was difficult to realize that almost four months 
had elapsed since we had crossed before, the 
weather conditions were so similar. It would be 
almost impossible to describe our feelings when it 
was known that we were practically coming into 
touch with the outside world. In Moose Factory 
we expected to meet the rest of the party, or to 
hear that they were on their way out to Cochrane, 
and hoped to find mail awaiting us. 

Only those who have been entirely cut off from 
communication with civilization, and particularly 



286 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

with their relatives and friends, can understand 
the anxiety occasioned by the prospect of coming 
into touch with these again. So much might hap- 
pen in four months, one is eager and anxious to 
get the first assurance that everything is all right. 

It was about five o'clock when the mouth of the 
Moose River was entered. Unfortunately the tide 
and the current were both against us, so the pull 
up to the Post was a long hard one, and the boat 
seemed to make little or no progress for a long 
time. 

At sunset we were at the dividing point in the 
river, one channel to the north of a chain of islands 
leading to the Revillon Company's Post, the other 
to the south of the island leading to Moose Factory. 

It was here that we saw one of the most exquisite 
sunsets of the entire journey, a fitting close to the 
most eventful cruise of our lives. The sun was 
followed down to the horizon by huge banks of 
white clouds, which at first looked like great 
bunches of fluffy wool, then as it sank out of sight, 
they gradually turned pink, later red, then a deep 
purple, and finally black as the daylight faded. 
The night grew very dark and threatening and 
soon a thunderstorm burst upon us, but the boat 
covers gave us ample protection from it. The 
storm lasted but a few minutes and soon the stars 
were twinkling bright in the sky. 

The lights of Moose Factory seemed a long time 
coming into view, and when they did, we failed to 



IVOOD ISLAND TO MOOSE FACTORY 287 

recognize them, thinking they were those of the 
Revillon Post. This was due to the fact that we 
were outside of the Httle island that Hes in front of 
the town and nearly hides it from the river. The 
engine stopped for a moment, and we heard people 
on the shore discussing the approach of the boat. 
As the upper end of the island was rounded, the 
town came into full view, and our cruise of thirteen 
hundred miles, the first of the kind ever made on 
the Hudson Bay, was completed. 



CHAPTER XXI 



Seven WeeKs at Moose Factory 




OREMOST among those to welcome 
us was the Rev. Mr. Haythorn- 
thwaite, who came out in his canoe 
to greet us and assure us of his 
gladness for our safe return. Our 
failure to appear earlier in the season had given 
rise to much anxiety at the Post on our behalf 
and the feeling of relief seemed general when we 
made our appearance. Mr. Hay thornth wait e most 
kindly invited us to stay at the Mission house, but 
four people seemed too large an addition to any 
man's family, so we compromised by camping and 
then having supper with him. 

With the assistance of several of the Indians the 
tents were soon set up, on the same place where the 
entire party had camped before. This accom- 
plished, we repaired to the Industrial School for 
our supper, where Mr. and Mrs. Haythornthwaite 
were in charge, having moved from the mission 
house a week or two before. 

We were received by the Missionary, his wife, 
and the mission teacher and nurse. Miss Barker. 
The feast of roast duck and the dainties which 

288 



AT MOOSE FACTORY 289 

accompanied it seemed truly fit for a king and we 
appreciated them as only hungry men could. 

Our first inquiries were about the York boat 
party. We were informed that nothing had been 
heard of them. The next matter of importance 
was that of securing guides to take us up the river. 
We were told that it would be quite impossible 
to induce any of the men to go out so near the 
time of the freeze-up. Some of the Ontario 
Government engineers had gone to the front the 
week before, and it had been only after consider- 
able difficulty that the Factor secured men to take 
them out. 

It was most necessary for some of us to go out, 
even if ah could not, so that the people at home 
might be informed that all were well, and that the 
expedition had been a success. Mr. McCall said 
he was going, if any one would accompany him. 
Mac, who also claimed to be a canoeman of no 
mean ability, volunteered to go, and Mr. Scott, one 
of the engineers of the Government party, who 
had remained behind the others, offered to accom- 
pany them if there was room in the canoe. It was 
agreed the morning after our arrival that these three 
should start for the railway on Tuesday morning. 

After consulting with the Factors of both Posts 
with regard to our own program, we decided 
to take their advice and settle down for a few 
weeks, until the freeze-up permitted us to walk 
out by one of the rivers. 
19 



290 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

On the evening following our arrival, Sunday, we 
attended service at the little cathedral, and after- 
ward went to supper at the Industrial School. It 
was then settled that we should have the use of the 
Mission house. So many pleasant hours had been 
spent in it on our former visit, that it did not seem 
at all strange to take up our residence there. The 
house remained just the same as when the parson 
lived there, the furniture and everything else being 
left in place. We were allowed the use of the house, 
wood and water, and were invited to help ourselves 
to the vegetables in the cellar. These were as 
fine a lot of garden products as one could wish for. 
Some of them were the best flavoured we had ever 
eaten. 

On Monday we packed up our tents and dun- 
nage for good and moved to the house where we 
were destined to spend the next seven weeks. The 
following day the party were to leave for the front, 
so, as soon as our moving was accomplished, thanks 
to the Mission horse and wagon, we turned our 
attention to the preparation of reports and corre- 
spondence. We worked far into the night, but were 
unable to complete our letters, so had to rise long 
before daylight the next morning in order to finish 
them. 

After breakfast we wrapped the mail in a rubber 
sheet to protect it from dampness, and went down 
to give it to the departing members of the party 
and to see them off. When we arrived at the shore, 



AT MOOSE FACTORY 291 

a consultation was going on between the trio, and 
as Mr. Scott thought there was too much in the 
canoe, he refused to go. His dunnage had to be 
removed as well as his provisions, and the canoe 
repacked, all of which took considerable time. 
Good-byes were said and the canoe started, we 
hoped, on a successful trip to the railway. 

We felt deeply gratified with the thought that 
soon our friends at home would know that all were 
safe, even though we were unable to return at the 
time. No one- can imagine our sense of relief 
when we found ourselves free from worry over 
weather conditions, and living in a house, safe 
from the attacks of the Husky dogs, with no more 
rising in the night to look after the boat, or 
breakfasting by candle-light. 

For the first few days we determined to take a 
much-needed rest and then to begin rewriting our 
diary. One evening, a week after Mac had left, 
when sitting at our tea discussing the probability 
of the two men being near the end of their canoe 
journey, and of the receipt of our letters at home, 
suddenly we heard the outside front door open, 
and then the dining-room door. To our great 
surprise and consternation Mac and McCall en- 
tered the room. 

Warmed up with a cup of good hot tea, they 
told us their story. They had gone but forty 
miles up the river, and meeting with many obstacles 
that retarded their progress, had given up hope of 



292 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

getting out before the freeze- up, and accordingly 
returned. It was too hard work, Mac said, as he 
had to do all the tracking. The ice had formed 
along the shore in rough ridges, due to the move- 
ment of the tide, and thus made it almost im- 
possible to walk. 

Apparently the travellers were not congenial 
companions; one said that had he had another 
man as good as himself he would not have turned 
back, and the other told exactly the same story. 
It seemed to us that if we had had the experience 
either of these men claimed, there would have been 
no doubt of our reaching the railway. 

Mac remained with us, and as there was no 
room elsewhere, Mr. McCall was accommodated 
at the Mission hospital, in which there were no 
patients at the time. 

On Mac's return we started out with new rules. 
Each man was to perform certain duties; we were 
to take turns in the lighting of the fire, in the 
splitting of wood, in the dish washing and every- 
thing else that goes with good housekeeping. This 
worked nicely for a day or two, but the novelty 
soon wore off, as it had done when we were travel- 
ling, and it was more trouble to get certain of the 
party to do their duty than to do the work 
ourselves. 

It became almost a rule with us to go to the 
Industrial School for an hour each evening before 
retiring, where we engaged in pleasant conversa- 



AT MOOSE FACTORY 293 

tion, and finally drank a cup of coffee before 
departing. Along the lines of farming Mr. Hay- 
thorn thwaite was particularly bright, and the 
keen interest he took in these matters was a 
revelation to us. Had there been a few more men 
like him on the Hudson Bay, during the past one 
hundred and fifty years, there would be many 
cellars of fine vegetables in that country, in ad- 
dition to his. 

All praise must not go to the parson, for both 
Mrs. Hay thorn thwaite and Miss Barker were very 
much interested in things pertaining to farming, 
for it is a matter of great importance to the Indus- 
trial School. While we were in the Mission house, 
a number of tomatoes ripened on plants grown in 
the house and attended by the ladies. 

Miss Barker had spent a season at the Guelph 
Agricultural College, so she was familiar with 
farming, both in theory and in practice. Dur- 
ing the fall previous to our arrival, she had 
expressed a desire to go into the field and 
plough, but had been denied the privilege by the 
parson. 

The Mission possesses a few cattle, a horse, and 
a colt. The only fodder that could be obtained for 
these was wild marsh hay, which is not very 
nourishing, so the experiment of raising oats was 
tried in a small field that year. The crop was a fine 
one and ripened fully, but unfortunately there 
was no means of threshing it, and the grain and 



294 W CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

straw was fed to the cattle instead of hay. This 
proved far superior to the marsh hay. 

A small patch of turnips was sown, half of ruta- 
bagas and the other half of early whites, and 
about eighty bushels were raised. The rutabagas 
were the finest flavoured turnips we had ever 
tasted. These were being fed out daily to the 
cattle. They were stored in an unheated cellar, 
and up to the time of our departure in the latter 
part of December, they were in perfect condition. 
The potato crop was a great success, as was also 
the general vegetable garden, where they had 
cauliflower, cabbage, carrots, onions, beets, pars- 
nips, and tomatoes. 

To aid them in the farm work, the Mission has 
several ploughs and cultivators, a mowing-machine, 
a horse rake, and a power saw, driven by a gasoline 
engine, for cutting their wood. A windmill was 
being constructed for the purpose of pumping 
their supply of water, both for the house and the 
stables, from the river. 

The first few days after our arrival were most 
enjoyable for they offered an opportunity for 
much-needed rest, and one in which to gather 
information about the Post. We were soon 
completely rested, but found that the people 
resident there knew very little of the history of 
Moose Factory, so that research along that line 
was well-nigh impossible. We had hoped to again 
see the old office books and journals of the Hudson's 



AT MOOSE FACTORY 295 

Bay Company and make some notes from them, 
but found they had all been destroyed since our 
last visit, with the exception of the oldest journal. 
We photographed a page of this, but it was too 
faded to show distinctly in the picture. The date 
of this journal was 1746. 

In the latter part of November, the ice began to 
form on the river, a thin sheet freezing during the 
night, but owing to the heat of the midday sun and 
the rising and falling of the tide, it would break up 
each day and pass out into the Bay. We were 
anxiously awaiting the formation of permanent 
ice, so that it would be possible for us to cross the 
river and spend some of our time at the Post of the 
Revillon Company. One trip was made while 
the river was full of floating ice, but this proved 
too dangerous, and we did not try to do it again. 

About the first of December, the river was frozen 
sufficiently for crossing from mainland to mainland, 
a distance of about four miles, but there was still 
open water along the shores at high tide. As soon 
as the solid ice formed, the hunters who were 
spending the winter at the Posts were able to make 
visits to their hunting grounds where their traps 
were set. Many also went to some small streams 
on the south side of the mainland where fine 
brook trout were obtainable from holes cut in the 
ice. Most of the Company's servants had their 
favourite hunting places and usually took Satur- 
day afternoon to visit their traps. 



296 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 



We were much interested to hear Mrs. Draulette 
tell of her many hunting experiences. Her traps 
were set on an island, about seven miles from the 
Post, which she visited frequently. On these 
occasions, there was always the expectancy and 
the hope that she would be rewarded with a silver 
fox. She had never been so favoured but hoped 
to be more fortunate that season. One of the 
servants at their Post had been lucky enough to 
catch a silver fox in each of two succeeding seasons. 

There is no woman on the Bay who has entered 
into the spirit of the northern life with the same 
degree of interest as Mrs. Draulette, which is all 
the more remarkable when one takes into considera- 
tion the fact that she is a lady of education and 
refinement and came directly from the associations 
of Parisian society to the Hudson Bay country. 
Nor do her household duties suffer in any way 
from her pursuit of the outdoor life. Nothing 
could be neater than her home, and to be invited 
to sit at Mr. Draulette 's table and partake of the 
dainties provided by the hostess is not only a 
treat, but a memorable function for the traveller 
of that country. 

Two events during our stay at Moose Factory 
that will live in our memories for some time to 
come were a double wedding and a social party at 
the Mission house. The latter was attempted by 
ourselves and the former was carried out success- 
fully by four of the young people of Moose Factory. 




At the Mission House, Moose Factory 




The Industrial School, Moose Factory 



AT MOOSE FACTORY 297 

One of the bridegrooms was a son of the chief 
servant of the Hudson's Bay Company's Post, and 
the other a son of Fred Mark, the catechist of the 
Mission. We did not have the pleasure of an ac- 
quaintance with the ladies. 

For days preceding the wedding, the greatest 
bustle and excitement was observed at the homes 
of the contracting parties, in the preparation of 
the trousseaux and the customary viands for the 
marriage feast. 

While we were sitting at our tea on the evening 
of the event, a halt was occasioned in the meal by 
one of the grooms calling to invite us to the 
wedding, which was to take place at seven o'clock, 
and to participate in the festivities following the 
ceremony. 

We were much interested in the function and 
repaired to the church in good season to have our 
curiosity satisfied. Promptly on the hour of seven, 
the wedding party entered the church to the strains 
of the wedding march and took their places in 
front of the altar. Accompanied by the subdued 
tones of the organ the service was read. 

The brides looked exceedingly well in their 
gowns of white lawn and hats to match. The 
grooms were dressed in the conventional black 
and had little rosettes of ribbon as boutonnieres. 

At the close of the ceremony a banquet was 
held at the house of the catechist, while the brides' 
cake and other refreshments were served at the 



298 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

home of the chief servant. Finally, a dance was 
held in the factory kitchen, lasting well into the 
morning. 

While the wedding was an event of much serious- 
ness, our party caused considerable merriment. 
Unfortunately the kitchen stove in the Mission 
house was not a good cooker, consequently the 
refreshments provided for the guests were not as 
palatable as we wished them to be. 

The baking was done the same day that the 
party was held. Although the tarts were in the 
oven by midday they could not be removed until 
nine o'clock in the evening. Any one who knows 
anything about baking will agree with us that a 
tart nine hours in the oven, whose complexion was 
still pale when removed, was a very dangerous 
article of food, and no sensible host would feel 
hurt if the guests refused a second helping. 

Everything that was baked in the stove suffered 
likewise, but the defects in the tarts, as far as 
appearance went, were concealed by spreading a 
good covering of whipped cream over the fruit, 
which to say the least made them look quite 
inviting. 

Some of the more kind-hearted of the guests 
complimented us on our confectionery, but in 
justice to them it must be said that it was done 
before they had sampled it. Had the tributes 
been paid after the meal we would have realized 
that they were only for politeness, for the next 



AT MOOSE FACTORY 299 

day scraps of the "grub'* were found tucked safely 
under sofa cushions and other spots that offered 
seclusion for the time being. 

Due to the kindness of the accountant of the 
Hudson's Bay Company, who allowed us to use his 
photographic apparatus, we were able to develop 
most of the films which had been exposed during 
our trip on the Bay. This occupied many of the 
evenings during our stay at the Post. 

Early in December Mr. James Dobie, a provin- 
cial land surveyor, who was surveying the 
boundaries of the new Indian reservation on the 
Abitibi River, arrived at the Post with three 
companions for the purpose of securing the 
necessary provisions and equipment for his return 
journey to Cochrane. Mr. Scott, who was still at 
Moose Factory, accompanied him on his return. 
The ice was not strong enough for him to go any 
farther up the river than to his camp, at the mouth 
of the French River, from which he and his party 
were to strike overland by way of Niven's Hne, the 
Algoma-Nipissing boundary, which would bring 
them within a few miles of New Post. 

This was the first opportunity to send out mail. 
However, we expected to get out nearly as soon as 
they, so merely wrote home that all were well and 
we would shortly follow our letters. 

Our guides to be, who were to return from 
Hannah Bay as soon as they deemed the river 
safe for travelling, were now daily expected, and 



300 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

accordingly preparations were begun for the long 
tramp. In seeking information regarding food and 
other supplies for the journey, we found in this as 
in every other case wherein advice had been 
solicited from the people at the various Posts, 
there were no two who ever recommended the 
same thing. The provisions which were selected, 
as was found later on, were ill-suited for the pur- 
pose. 

From a well-boiled ham and some fine yeast 
bread, baked at the Mission school, we made a 
good supply of sandwiches and tied them together 
with twine, so that they would not separate with 
handling. These were packed carefully in a cotton 
bag. In addition, about ten pounds of flour, some 
lard and baking powder, a supply of canned 
sausages and sardines, oatmeal, butter, cocoa, 
tea and coffee, canned milk, and cheese constituted 
our rations. The cooking utensils and dishes con- 
sisted of a frying pan, tea pail, and a cup, bowl, 
knife, fork, and spoon apiece. Our object was to 
have sufficient nourishing food and necessary 
equipment, with the least bulk and weight. 

The time had now come when the packet from 
Rupert House should arrive, and with it we ex- 
pected news of the whereabouts of the York boat 
party. The guides who were to accompany us to 
Cochrane arrived at the Post and were waiting 
for us to start. However, we did not intend to 
leave until the other party was heard from. We 



AT MOOSE FACTORY 301 

hoped to be able to leave about the middle of the 
month. 

On the fourteenth of December, a prospector, 
who had been working in the vicinity of Rupert 
House, arrived in Moose Factory with his partner, 
a guide, and a dog team, en route for the ''front. " 
He brought us welcome news. The rest of our 
men w^ere safe and sound at Rupert House, al- 
though Mr. Strong had suffered from a severe 
attack of la grippe, which for a time threatened 
serious consequences. Mr. and Mrs. Woodall, the 
clergyman and his wife, had nursed him safely 
through his serious illness. He had fully recovered 
and was leaving, as well as his party, in a few days 
for Moose Factory. 

Mr. Strong was to come with the Hudson's 
Bay Company's packet, consequently it would be 
but a few days before his arrival, and it was 
planned to leave as soon as he reached Moose 
Factory. 

On the following Sunday we attended service 
in the little cathedral for the last time, and as 
was the usual custom spent the evening with the 
parson and his family. Much as a stay of two 
months in the quietude of the little town had been 
dreaded on our arrival, by the time of our departure 
we had grown quite attached to the people, and as 
the hour of leaving drew near, we regretted parting 
with those who had shown us so much kindness and 
succeeded in making our sojourn a pleasant one. 



302 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

On the following afternoon we made our farewell 
visit to Mr. and Mrs. Draulette at the Revillon 
Post, having dinner and spending the evening with 
them. Leaving about nine o'clock, we started 
across the river on snowshoes over the freshly 
made path. Although the moon was not shining, 
the night was light and there was little difficulty in 
following the trail. 

Once across to Moose Island, the trail leads 
through the bush, which starts at the south-west 
corner of the island, and leads to the Post. This 
is a very beautiful bush and through it winds a 
network of trails. It is a favourite spot for hunting 
in the winter, and in the summer provides a 
pleasant retreat for the dusky lovers of the little 
town. 

On our return to the Mission house, Mr. Strong 
was found comfortably housed in our quarters 
and looking remarkably well despite his serious 
illness and the journey of over a hundred miles by 
dog team. His return had been looked forward to 
with much pleasure during all these weeks of 
waiting, and there was much interesting news to 
recount by both parties. His experiences with the 
sailboat, after w^e left Fort George, were quite 
thrilling, and it was with the greatest difficulty 
that he and his party had reached the Eastmain 
River, two days after our departure from that 
place. 

The York boat was put into winter quarters at 



AT MOOSE FACTORY 303 

the Eastmain Post and the party set out in two 
canoes for Rupert House, a distance of seventy- 
five miles. They left nearly all their belongings 
in order that they might travel light and make 
better speed. Four men being in each canoe, there 
was really no room for anything but the bare 
necessities of life. Many of the men had made 
collections of curios and it was with a great deal of 
regret that they had abandoned them. 

When they reached Rupert House, the Bay and 
rivers had not begun to freeze, so after getting 
sufficient provisions to carry them to Moose 
Factory, they started on their journey thither. 
They had only gone as far as Cabbage Willows 
Bay when a cold spell overtook them, the ice began 
to form along the shore, and they were compelled 
to return to Rupert House — which place they 
reached with great difficulty — and settle down to 
await the final freeze-up. They built themselves 
a comfortable log cabin in which to live, for it 
would be much easier to heat than a tent, and 
made the very best of their situation. 

The day following Mr. Strong's arrival, Decem- 
ber the seventeenth, was spent entirely in making 
preparations for our departure. The balance of 
the party from Rupert House was not expected 
for a few days, and we concluded that it was best 
for our own party to leave for home immedi- 
ately. Provisions, bedding, toboggans, dogs, etc. 
were all gotten in readiness for the following 



304 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

morning. The Hudson*s Bay Company's packet 
was also to leave in the morning, so there was 
general excitement about the place, in order that 
the travellers might be prepared for an early start, 
and that residents of the Post might have their 
letters written to friends and relatives, or to the 
stores at the front, where the next summer's 
supply of luxuries was to be ordered. 




CHAPTER XXII 

Home^ward Dovmd on tKe Ice. 
Moose Factory to Nei^ Post 

JHE morning of December the eight- 
eenth dawned clear and with a 
moderate temperature. We break- 
fasted before daylight and shortly- 
after paid a farewell visit to the 
officers of the Post. 

The guides brought their toboggans and dogs 
down to the Mission house and tied the latter at 
safe distances apart along the fence, while the 
former were being loaded and lashed. What a 
bedlam of noise the rascals raised! Too far apart 
to fight, they drew as close together as their ropes 
would permit them and vented their rage in the 
weird wolflike howl for which the Husky dog is 
famous. 

As it was impossible for the guides and Mac to 
take all the dunnage and provisions required for 
the party and the dogs on their toboggans, we 
provided a large one for ourselves. As dogs were 
scarce we planned to haul it, and for that purpose 
contrived a double harness of pack straps to make 
the work as easy as possible. This was rather a 
20 305 



3o6 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

bold undertaking, but as the loads would grow 
lighter every day it would be possible to gradually 
transfer ours to that of the dogs and thus lighten 
our burden. The people of Moose Factory very 
much doubted our ability to walk out even un- 
encumbered, and expressed themselves as being 
certain that we would never reach the end of the 
island, pulling our own toboggan. In fact they 
prophesied our return to Moose within a few days 
to accept their proffered hospitality until the 
spring. It was our intention to show these doubt- 
ing friends the kind of stuff that Canadians are 
made of. 

About ten o^clock all but Mac, who had risen 
but shortly before, were ready for the start, with the 
dogs in their harness and the loads lashed firmly 
to the toboggans. The people of the Mission and 
some of the natives assembled to see us off. One 
old Indian, Long Mary, who had made us some 
fancy footwear, having sat up all the night previous 
to complete the work, walked along with us as far 
as the river bank, where others were waiting, and 
shouted advice concerning the management of the 
toboggan when making the steep descent to the ice. 

We had donned our blanket suits but soon the 
strenuous exercise combined with the heat of the 
strong sun made us halt and lash the coats to 
the toboggan. The travelling was good for a while 
as the trail near the Post had been used for some 
time and the packet had passed over it but an 



MOOSE FACTORY TO NEW POST 307 

hour before. Much of the way led over glare ice, 
making it hard to keep our feet as we hauled the 
toboggan. 

About noon, while having a short breathing spell, 
we saw a dark spot on the trail some distance in 
the rear and soon recognized Mac with his dogs, 
quite awake and doing his best to catch up to us. 
We gave him a chance and had a cold lunch while 
waiting. 

From there on the three of us travelled together, 
the guides being somewhat in advance. The ice 
soon began to get ver}^ rough, in particular when 
we crossed to the north side of the river. There 
had been rapids at the place and the ice was made 
up chiefly of tilted fragments, which had originally 
formed on smooth water and when broken up had 
become jammed together and consolidated. This 
place was a mild introduction to what was to be 
encountered later on, but it furnished us a rather 
strenuous time, our load being too high and easily 
overbalanced. 

Throughout the day the weather remained mild, 
although the wind on the open river became quite 
biting as the evening advanced. 

It is a custom of the Indians when travelling in 
the winter to stop frequently for a cup of hot tea, 
but dry wood is very scarce within a radius of ten 
miles of the Post, so it was late in the afternoon 
before we had such refreshment. These stopping 
places will always hold a pleasant place in our 



3o8 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

memories for the quiet comfort and rest they 
afforded. A place is always chosen by virtue of 
the presence of dry wood and protection from the 
chilling wind during the party's inactivity. 

An easy path up the river bank being found, one 
would take his axe and cut a hole in the ice near 
by, where the tea pail might be filled with water. 
Others busied themselves in loosening the lashings 
of the toboggans in order to get the ''grub" bag, 
which was placed at the end of the load so as to be 
easy of access. This contained all the food required 
for the day, as well as tea mugs, knives, forks, and 
spoons. 

The balance of the party would break the trail 
up the bank and into the bush, until a level place, 
free from brush, was found. A clear spot in the 
snow for the fire, probably two yards square, would 
be firmly tramped down. Some would get dry 
twigs and birch bark or cut chips from a stick of 
dry, resinous wood or cedar. Others would cut 
and split large sticks of dry wood and soon a fire 
would be blazing merrily. 

In the meantime some of the guides would have 
tramped down the snow for yards around on the 
windward side of the fire, and have carpeted it 
with a beautiful covering of freshly cut boughs. 
It was only about fifteen minutes' work, after the 
party had been out a few days and were working 
systematically, from the time of starting until the 
kettle was on the fire. 



MOOSE FACTORY TO NEW POST 309 

Carefully brushing the loose snow from off their 
moccasins, the party would group themselves in 
comfortable attitudes before the fire to enjoy the 
hot tea, and if it were noon, a substantial addition 
of food, but meat was rarely cooked at any other 
time. 

All the while these preparations were going on, 
the dogs, which had been left to rest while still in 
their harness, would be jumping about and howling 
in the most piteous tones. Sometimes their 
plunges would be made in unison and their to- 
boggan started, not to stop until they had it 
hauled up to the camp-fire. At other times, some 
of them would shed their harness and come skulk- 
ing into camp. They were generally rewarded for 
these tricks with a sound thrashing at the hands 
of their masters, administered with the most 
convenient weapon, usually either a snowshoe or a 
stick of firewood. 

The average time spent at these stops was about 
forty -five minutes and they were usually made at 
about 10 A.M., I P.M., and sometimes at 3 p.m. 

The resuming of the journey would be the signal 
for the dogs to begin afresh their howling and 
prancing, which, with the shouting of the guides 
in their vain attempt to quiet the canines, would 
create a regular pandemonium, that would re- 
echo throughout the surrounding forest. 

We continued travelling, this first day, until 
about four o'clock. Twelve miles had been covered 



310 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

and Charlie Macauley, the head guide, suggested 
that camp had better be set up at the top of the 
river bank at that place, for there was no other 
accessible spot in the vicinity where this could be 
done. 

What an awful place for a camp it was! The 
bank, fully twenty-five feet high, was nearly 
vertical, but with the united efforts of men and 
dogs all of the toboggans were soon above and 
ready to be unlashed. 

The ground was covered with a network of 
windfalls, their stiff, dry branches so intermingled 
as to make progress through them look quite 
impossible. 

Nothing daunted, we set to work with a will, 
following the directions of our more experienced 
companions. A strenuous half hour^s work did 
wonders for the place and two spots were soon 
cleared for our tent and a lean-to for the others. 
The snow was carefully packed down on the tent- 
site and then covered with a thick carpet of spruce 
boughs. Tent poles and pickets cut, the tent was 
set up in the same manner as though it were resting 
on the sod in June. Four stakes driven into the 
snow served as legs for the tin stove and very soon 
the little tent was warm and cozy. 

The next duty was to tie up the dogs, for in such 
narrow confines it required but a few seconds of 
freedom to start a dog fight that might well have 
been called an inferno of wolfish howls and snarls 



MOOSE FACTORY TO NEW POST 311 

and flying hair. They were securely fastened to 
trees, at safe distances apart, and then the further 
unpacking of toboggans began. Everything valu- 
able was either put in a safe place in the tent or 
hung on a nearby tree, for to those savage dogs, 
seemingly born hungry, even a snowshoe is a 
great delicacy. 

Quietness soon settles down in the camp as the 
evening meal is begun, for one does not feel much 
given to hilarity after a hard day's work in the 
open air. 

On the trail, a day's work does not end with 
supper, for the dogs must have their daily rations 
of one pound of pork, and then comes the job of 
drying out the footwear. The latter is by far the 
most necessary of all precautions which the person 
who wants to make a comfortable and quick jour- 
ney must take. No matter how careful he is, 
there is bound to be more or less moisture in his 
moccasins and duffels (socks made in the shape of 
moccasins out of blanket material, and worn over 
light stockings and under heavy outside ones) and 
if they are not dried out daily sore feet are sure 
to be the result. 

When all the duties were attended to, shavings 
and dry wood made ready for the morning fire, 
the day's diary written up, and perhaps some 
necessary sewing done, we would creep into the 
sleeping bag, the head of which was convenient to 
the stove door, a position that enabled us to light 



312 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

the fire without arising, and soon be asleep, dream- 
ing perchance of dining-car dinners and home 
comforts, despite the fact that they could hardly 
be more enjoyable than those we had. 

When we left Moose Factory our watches were 
all out of order, but it was little suspected that 
Charlie's was in the same condition. It was our 
custom to rise at such a time that all could be 
ready to start off by daylight. We arose the first 
mommg, after what seemed to have been a long 
night's sleep, and after completing the morning 
duties, broke camp and sat around an open fire, 
awaiting daylight. It did not come for nearly two 
hours, and the experience gave us unwelcome 
forebodings of much lost sleep in the future. 

The morning was beautifully clear but a strong, 
bitterly cold wind was blowing from the south- 
west, directly into our faces as we travelled. Soon 
after leaving the camp, another was reached, that 
of Jimmy Job, the guide who took the York boat 
to Rupert House. After some dickering the use of 
his watch was obtained for the trip, much to our 
relief. 

The trail proved good most of the way, although 
quite rough for a short distance when a detour 
was made across the river to avoid some hummocks. 

The islands in the river become very scarce and 
the banks low as the mouth of the Abitibi is 
approached, and the long unprotected stretches 
offered free scope to tlie wind. About eleven 



MOOSE FACTORY TO NEW POST 313 

o'clock, becoming very warm, due to the strenuous 
work of pulling a on e-hundred-and-fifty -pound load 
against the wind, we removed our coats and lashed 
them to the toboggan, during a stop for breath. 
While doing this, it was discovered that one had 
his cheeks and the other his chin and throat badly 
frozen. Copious applications of snow soon had 
both in condition for going ahead and none the 
worse for their experiences. 

In the meantime the rest of the party with their 
dogs had gotten a mile or so ahead of us and soon 
vanished altogether from sight. Being so near the 
mouth of the Abitibi, it was certain that, they 
would not stop until they reached it, consequently 
it was expected on our arrival to find them there, 
having lunch. 

Imagine our disappointment when on entering 
the river no signs of them were to be seen other 
than the freshly broken trail leading forward. 
Weary with the long, hard pull against the wind 
and thirsty to the point of choking, it seemed as 
though we could not proceed farther without 
having some refreshment, but finally plucked up 
enough courage to go ahead, in hope that the 
others might be camped just beyond a nearby 
bend. 

We were still doomed to disappointment, so de- 
termined to have a cold lunch without waiting 
to make tea. What a lunch that was! The ham 
sandwiches were frozen into dry chips, a bite of 



314 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

which sent chills straight to our toes, the sardines 
were also in the same condition, almost too hard 
to chew, and the cheese and biscuits were as hard 
as a rock, although the most palatable of the lot. 
It was so cold we had to don our coats and then 
dance around to keep warm, but the food, such 
as it was, served to brace us up and we started 
forward determined to overtake the others. 

About half a mile from our stopping place, 
smoke was seen curling up from a clump of trees, 
and we were soon at the long-looked-for camp and 
drinking great bumpers of hot tea. Stimulated 
with the hot drink, we once more started on our 
way and travelled until shortly after dark. The 
days were very short and unless the making of 
camp was started before four o'clock, it could not 
be completed with daylight. Fortunately on this 
particular evening, the moon rose early, enabling 
us to travel in its pale light with even more comfort 
than in the glare of the bright sun on the snow. 

This part of the river, filled with small islands, 
the narrow passages between them lined with tall 
snow-draped spruce, formed a most beautiful pic- 
ture, enlivened by the silently moving dog teams 
winding their way, in Indian file, along the narrow, 
sinuous trail. 

The camp, pitched in a grove of very large 
spruce and lighted by the glare of a huge fire, 
made a charming picture. All the party, with the 
exception of Mac were in the best of trim, and 



MOOSE FACTORY TO NEW POST 315 

despite the fact that they had covered seventeen 
miles in nine hours of travelHng, felt less sore from 
the effects of the exertion than on the previous 
evening. Mac seemed to find the work a bit too 
strenuous, and when the stop was made, seated 
himself on his toboggan out on the trail and did 
not budge until the camp was in order. 

The following day, though dull and of moderate 
temperature, was not stormy. Having a good 
start in the morning, we were able to make almost 
twenty miles that day. Early in the day, we met 
two Indians on their way to Moose Factory, and 
learned from them that Mr. McCall's party, which 
had left the Post two days previous to us, were 
now but a day and a half ahead. 

Mac's load being very light, his dogs kept him 
on the run, so he suggested that we should tie our 
toboggan to his and let the dogs pull both. It 
was a heavy load for them, consequently we helped 
them with a push-pole behind the last toboggan. 
Even this was not as hard work as pulling the 
whole load. 

The trail led over several rough places on the 
rapids, where the ice was piled up into high 
hummocks. At such places we had to help the 
dogs by pulling with a pack strap attached to the 
front toboggan. Camp was made that night on a 
clearing around the permanent hunting camp of 
the Indians we had met in the morning. 

The going next day was good for some time, 



31 6 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

and we again let the dogs pull our toboggan, 
assisting them with the push-pole. Later, the 
Long Opening, a long rapid stretch without a 
bend, was reached. The ice was so rough, it was 
necessary to pull our own toboggan in order to 
lighten the load of the dogs. 

About noon, Cedar Creek, which is supposed 
to be the point halfway between Moose Factory 
and New Post, was reached. Just as we were camp- 
ing, the Indians who had taken Mr. McMillan, the 
Government engineer, out, were met. They had 
been forced to remain at the front until the freeze- 
up and were returning at this, the first opportunity. 
We travelled about sixteen miles that day, which 
was not bad considering the roughness of the ice. 

On the fifth day we reached the foot of the Long 
Rapids, which are noted for their rough ice in the 
winter, often piled up ten feet high. Fortunately 
we found that it was not so this year. The river 
was much narrower and the banks much higher 
at this point than lower down and presented many 
beautiful views to the lover of nature. 

The next day offered a change from the general 
routine. We early reached the first of the por- 
tages, the one around Clay Falls. A steep hill, 
about one hundred and twenty-five feet high, had 
to be ascended, a job both strenuous and exciting. 
We had to pull our own toboggan, as the dogs had 
all they could manage without it. Once on the 
top, the trail was fairly good although the snow 




Five Minutes' Rest on the Trail 




n 



/ 



t 





^ 



The Authors in Harness 



MOOSE FACTORY TO NEW POST 317 

was not so firmly packed as on the river. Beyond 
the portage, the ice was not very good and we were 
plunging through slush until our feet were like 
ice blocks. We were able to reach Elbow portage, 
and make the first ascent, about seventy-five feet, 
before dark and camped on the trail. 

It was snowing lightly the following morning 
but we were off early. The trail was very broken, 
steep, high hills being the prevailing feature. 

The heavy exercise early in the day did not 
fatigue us appreciably, and we got across at a fair 
rate of speed. Above this portage the snow was 
much deeper, which made the walking more 
difficult, but New Post was reached early in the 
afternoon. 

There we caught up with the packet, for it was 
Christmas Eve and the packet men were stop- 
ping over for a couple of days in order to enjoy 
the festivities at the Post, 



CHAPTER XXIII 
Ne-w Post to CocKrane 




FTER a general exchange of news with 
the packet men and the Factor, Mr. 
McLeod, that gentleman advised us 
that, owing to the difficulty of pro- 
curing wood, it were best that we 
should spend the night in the house of his Indian 
servants near by. We thanked him for his kind 
suggestion, but knowing a thing or two about these 
Indian houses decided to have our tent put up. 
Our men accepted the invitation to sleep in the 
house. 

It was not an easy matter to set up the camp, but 
we managed to get boughs from the rear of the 
Post, and bought some firewood from the Factor. 
It seemed almost impossible for us to believe that 
it was Christmas Eve without the conventional 
celebration, so it was decided that the most 
fitting thing to do was to get to bed early, hoping 
to dream of Santa Claus, roast turkey, and plum 
pudding. 

We were up the next morning by five o'clock. 
The moon was still high in the sky and by its light 
the breaking of camp was accomplished. We had 

318 



NEJV POST TO COCHRANE 319 

our tent taken down and everything packed, ready 
for starting, long before the others. Owing to the 
decrease in provisions, it was found possible to 
pack everything on three toboggans, thus enabling 
us to leave ours behind. 

While awaiting the final preparations of the 
guides, we took advantage of the delay to pay a 
visit to the house which had been offered us as a 
shelter for the night, and in which, much to our 
surprise, were several sick people. 

One look at the interior was quite enough to 
satisfy us that we had done the proper thing in 
refusing to take shelter in the Indians* house, 
although at the time not knowing that there were 
any invalids therein. 

On entering the house we found that there was 
but one room, absolutely devoid of furniture save 
a big box stove. On the floor in different places 
were heaped up piles of dirty fur and dirtier 
blankets, which served as beds for the inmates. 

At the end of the room, and lying on one of the 
beds, was an emaciated old woman, apparently 
in the last throes of tuberculosis, a sickening 
spectacle, as her spasms of coughing would be 
followed by expectoration, without any sanitary 
precaution whatever. 

At the other end of the room, seated on an old 
soap box, was her son, a pitiable sight, ravished 
to a skeleton by a form of tuberculosis which had 
become located in his neck, completely encircling 



320 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

it with running sores. Beside him sat his wife, 
also a victim of the dread disease, while on the 
floor lay several children. 

To add to the unsanitary conditions, the floor 
and walls were covered with filth, and the window 
and door casings were chinked with scraps of fur. 
The windows were covered almost to the bottom 
with dirty paper sacks, and there was scarcely an 
opening where light or air was being admitted. 

While in conversation with them, we found 
that these people had been invalids for a number 
of years, and their first inquiry of us was regarding 
the possible visit of a doctor. Medical attention 
seemed now to be their only hope. We proffered 
advice as to proper living conditions with regard 
to ventilation, light, cleanliness, and food, and as 
we did so, the wife, who understood English, would 
inform the husband of our conversation. The 
woman promised us that she would remember our 
counsel and take advantage of it. 

As the first streaks of dawn were appearing in 
the east, we were scaling the hills that rise to an 
elevation of several hundred feet back of New 
Post. We had proceeded about a quarter of a 
mile along the apparently level ground, when the 
party suddenly saw through the treetops a fiery 
object, like an immense balloon, passing overhead. 
Coming to a standstill, our eyes followed it until 
it disappeared from sight. It was an immense 
meteor with a beautiful, long-extended tail of blue, 



NEIV POST TO COCHRANE 321 



red, and yellow fire, which did not seem to be very 
far away from the earth. It soon disappeared 
from our view, and we were left an astonished 
party, the event having transpired in so brief a 
time. 

The guides were very much startled, and in 
fact we were all more or less so, a few moments 
later, to hear a tremendous thud accompanied by 
vibrations, almost like an earthquake, which 
echoed and re-echoed throughout the surrounding 
hilltops. It was with much difficulty that we 
described the phenomenon to the guides, whose 
scientific knowledge, of course, was very limited. 

The portage trail on which we started out that 
morning was fifteen miles long, and lay through 
an open spruce forest. The trees were laden with 
snow which formed them into all kinds of fantastic 
shapes, and one with an imaginative mind could 
fancy himself in a garden adorned by the most 
beautiful statuary. After leaving the forest and 
going about a mile on the river, a heavy storm set 
in and we decided to stop there for the night. On 
the following day, only fourteen miles were made, 
and camp was set up early in the afternoon, at the 
lower end of Island portage, a point on the river 
where the first survey for the Canadian Pacific 
Railway crossed. 

The next day's tramp proved to be the roughest 
of the river journey. The portage was seven 
miles long and the trail led through at least five 



21 



322 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

miles of burnt timber, the windfalls of which were 
strewn in every direction across the trail, ofttimes 
piled up, one on top of the other, half a dozen deep, 
and over which we and the dogs had to clamber. 
It was pleasant news, indeed, when the guides 
called out "river ahead" and we shortly saw the 
end of the trail at the river, several hundred feet 
below us. 

It was about eleven o'clock, and appreciating 
the morning's accomplishment, we stopped a full 
hour and partook of a well earned meal. This was 
the very last portage on the route, the balance of 
the journey lying entirely on the river, until we 
would leave it for good and strike across country 
on the Government road to Cochrane. 

Mac had not arrived by the time dinner was 
ready, and we were much surprised a little later 
to see his dog Nancy sneak into camp, dragging 
her broken harness behind her. This necessitated 
the returning of the dog, a couple of us taking her 
back nearly a mile to where Mac was found 
struggling along with the other dog and vowing 
vengeance on the truant when she was recovered. 

Early in the afternoon tracks of a dog, evidently 
astray, were seen. We supposed it belonged to the 
guide of the party ahead. About five miles farther 
on, we came to the mouth of a small stream flowing 
in from the north. Here an Indian camp was 
situated. Charlie called on one of the Indians and 
finding that the stray dog had been caught, agreed 



NEfV POST TO COCHRANE 323 

to take him on to his owner, who was ahead. This, 
of course, gave us another dog — to feed. We 
found that he had Httle strength but a large 
appetite, the very opposite to what was required. 
A few miles farther Half-way Island was reached, 
midway between the last portage and the mouth of 
the Frederickhouse River, and camp was made for 
the night. 

Some Indians, who were drawing moose meat to 
the camp we visited early in the afternoon, stopped 
to speak with our men and the incident closed with 
the happy trade of a quantity of meat for a bottle 
of Painkiller. This was very fortunate, for the 
dog food was almost finished. The shortage was 
due to Mac's carelessness, for in his haste at the 
start from Moose Factory, he left his allowance of 
meat behind, and had since eaten part of the pork 
provided for the dogs. 

The following day was December the twenty- 
eighth, and if we were to reach Montreal by the 
New Year, it was necessary to be in Cochrane, 
which was still thirty-six miles away, before the 
next day at twelve o'clock. The morning was very 
dark and it was snowing hard, but we determined 
to accomplish our desired end, if at all possible, 
so we two were on the way by five o'clock and 
breaking the trail for the rest of the party, who 
were soon to follow. The snow lately fallen and 
drifted had made the trail very heavy. 

Everything possible to facilitate our speed had 



324 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

been done. Most of the remaining food had been 
left, along with the Indians' blankets and extra 
clothes, in a cache made at the last camp, for we 
hoped to reach Cochrane without setting up the 
tents again. 

The mouth of the Frederickhouse River was 
reached early in the forenoon, and a short stop for 
tea was made. From here the trail led for thirteen 
miles up the Frederickhouse River to the Govern- 
ment road, which leads to Cochrane. The 
travelling proved very heavy for both man and 
beast, on account of the depth of snow. About 
ten miles up we again stopped for refreshment. It 
was then nearly two o'clock in the afternoon. The 
prospects for reaching our destination that day 
were brighter as it had stopped snowing, and we 
hoped that the Government road would be broken 
enough to permit of better speed. 

Our stop was a brief one, and after going a mile 
we came upon a camp, and to our surprise, found 
a search party consisting of one of the men who 
had been in the Eastmain River party, which had 
returned in September, and a half-breed companion, 
with two large toboggans and a bevy of dogs, on 
their way to Moose Factory to get tidings of our 
party, or if we were there, to help bring us out. 
After a brief consultation, we deemed it advisable 
to send them on to meet the balance of the expedi- 
tion and aid their progress. 

After taking leave of the relief party, we set out 



NEfV POST TO COCHRANE 325 

again and in an hour were mounting the steep river 
bank to the Government road, which for about 
three or four miles proved to be nothing but a 
strip of cleared land, across which huge logs lay in 
the utmost confusion. 

The distance by road to Cochrane from the 
river is twelve miles. When two mileposts were 
passed, we stopped for the last drink of tea on the 
trip. Here we had to wait long for Mac, for he 
was now well-nigh exhausted, and eventually one 
of the party went back and helped the dogs, also 
well worn out, to pull his load to camp. 

It was growing dark, but we decided to make a 
dash for the town, over the intervening ten miles 
or more. Before starting, all the provisions, 
cooking utensils, stoves, etc., were abandoned, and 
knowing that Mac's strength was failing fast, and 
not likely to last out until Cochrane was reached, 
he was advised to stay there and camp until the 
morning, and then to proceed. This he would not 
do, and although there was little on his toboggan, 
he refused to carry our sleeping bag any farther, 
declaring that with it abandoned, he would be in 
town as soon as we. Removing our sleeping bag 
and declining our proffered tea, he started ahead. 

It was quite dark when we were again on the 
trail. The hour that followed was one of the worst 
in our experience. One of us had been using snow- 
shoes only when it was absolutely necessary, and 
unfortunately had loaned them to one of the 



326 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

guides, while the latter had lashed his own to one 
of the toboggans, so the former was continually 
plunging to his hips in the soft snow, where it had 
bridged the gap between two or more fallen trees. 
As the moon had not yet risen, it was impossible to 
see ahead of us, and we had to steer our way along 
the sinuous trail by the sense of feeling. It took 
a full hour to go a distance of two miles — to the 
first cross-road, but great was our joy, when this 
was reached, to find that it was free from logs and 
graded. 

The lights of the town reflected in the sky came 
into view, and the conversation turned to a beef- 
steak supper, for with, this in mind we had taken 
practically nothing since morning but tea and a 
few sweet biscuits, having discarded the balance 
of the provisions when leaving the morning camp. 

The party was doomed to disappointment, for 
soon it was reluctantly decided to abandon the 
idea of proceeding, as our progress was unavoid- 
ably slow owing to the depth of the snow and the 
hour was growing late. We camped at a spot 
where the search party had spent the night pre- 
vious. Mac had been passed near the turn on the 
graded road, where he was preparing to camp 
for the night, so there was no likelihood of his 
reaching Cochrane that night. 

That camp will be a long remembered one for its 
discomforts. With no stove, it was impossible 
to use the tent, and hence a shelter of poles and 



NEIV POST TO COCHRANE 327 

brush had to be used in conjunction with an open 
fire. To make matters worse, there was practically 
no dry wood to be found. Our throats were 
parched and dry, but the tea pails had been left 
behind and there was nothing in which snow could 
be melted. At last, while fixing up a bed of boughs, 
one of the guides found an empty quarter pound 
tobacco tin that had been discarded by the party 
camping there before us. Our satisfaction may 
well be imagined as we grouped ourselves around 
the fire, and melting snow in the tin each drank the 
full of the common cup. It is just such conditions 
of privation as these that make all men brothers 
and remove the barriers of social caste. 

As the Indians had left their bedding behind, we 
shared ours with them and lay down with our feet 
to the open fire. Our blankets being divided 
between the party of four, left little for any of us, 
and for the first time in our experience we were 
compelled to keep our clothes on throughout the 
night, although they were wet with perspiration. 

With sore and aching bodies from travelling 
twenty-nine miles the day before and hungry 
beyond description, we found ourselves again on 
the trail the next morning long before daylight. 
Some very high hills were encountered, and weary 
from lack of sleep and food, we could scarcely 
climb them. With the approach of daylight, a 
most welcome sight appeared, a settler's cabin. 

Coming up to it, we went straight way to the door 



328 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

to inquire the distance to the town, despite the 
fact that the occupants were not yet up. Our 
knocking on the door was soon answered by a 
kindly man who opened it and immediately invited 
us all in and gave us refreshment. 

With more than ordinary enjoyment we de- 
voured thick slices of beautiful, fresh home-made 
bread, between which were laid pieces of the most 
delicious Bologna sausage, and drank cup after 
cup of refreshing tea, all made by the generous 
housewife. The true meaning of the words of the 
Great Teacher, "I was an hungered and ye gave 
me meat," was never so fully realized by us as 
when we ate our breakfast that morning, and when 
we left the humble cabin, it was with a prayer that 
the reward which was to follow such acts might be 
fully meted out to our kind benefactors. 

It was still seven miles to the town, but when 
once again on the trail, we were like new men, 
ready if need be to run to our destination. Soon 
the settlers* cabins became more numerous and the 
rough log huts gave way to neatly clapboarded 
cottages. Finally teams were met on the road and 
fancy sleighs in which were families on their way 
to church, for it was Sunday. We arrived in 
Cochrane at ten o'clock, exactly eleven days to the 
minute from the time of our leaving Moose Fac- 
tory, having travelled on an average of nineteen 
miles per day. 

Was it a dream? No, we were once more in the 



NEJV POST TO COCHRANE] 329 

realm of modern life, the place of big cities and 
large business. We were practically home, after 
a trip of over eighteen hundred miles by canoe, 
motor boat, and dog team, most of which had been 
over that wonderful stretch of inland ocean, Hud- 
son Bay, and the almost unexplored Eastmain 
Coast of our own beloved Province, and terminat- 
ing through the forested river valleys of Northern 
Ontario. 

What a sensation it was to once more see the 
long telegraph lines, that w^ould in a few minutes 
be the bearer of a message to loved ones, telling 
that we were alive and well and not lost as the 
newspapers had reported ; to see the railway trains 
as they passed swiftly along the strips of shining 
steel, and to know that in two brief hours they 
would be carrying us at a high rate of speed to our 
homes ; to enter a modern hotel and partake of our 
first meal in civilization during a lapse of eight 
months ! 

Two days were spent in reaching our final de- 
stination, which gave us ample time to make a 
resume of our trip. The chief object of the expe- 
dition had been accomplished, although weather 
conditions had forced us to curtail our program 
considerably. 

The fact had been established beyond all doubt 
of the existence of an almost inexhaustible supply 
of iron ore on certain of the islands of Hudson 
Bay. Our opinion that the country east of the 



330 IN CANADA'S NORTHLAND 

Bay is rich in minerals, and that, amongst others, 
diamonds will eventually be found, was strength- 
ened. 

The water powers of the east coast were also 
found to be among Canada's largest, and capable 
of economical development, either for mining or 
smelting purposes, or for transporting the products 
of the interior to the coast. 

On the east coast of James Bay from Rupert 
House to Cape Jones, pulp wood was found to be 
plentiful, especially on the rivers flowing into the 
Bay. That there will be pulp and paper industries 
in these localities in the future is absolutely assured. 

That same portion of country is also of an agri- 
cultural nature, and it will only be a matter of 
time until it is opened up by settlers. Samples of 
vegetables that were brought out and sent to the 
governments elicited the greatest surprise and 
commendation from Premiers and Cabinet 
Ministers, which is proof enough of the fact that 
with the long summer days of these northern 
latitudes, vegetables and grains can be raised in the 
greatest profusion. 

In considering the future of the country, we 
could not overlook some of its present pressing 
needs. Its natives are scattered along a coast line 
of many hundred miles, without any opportunity 
for medical attention, with the exception of what 
the Factors and the Missionaries can give them. 
These people should be supplied, at some central 



NEIV POST TO COCHRANE 331 

location, say at Fort George, with an hospital, 
doctors, and ntirses. The need of these is just as 
great as it is on the Labrador coast where Dr. 
Grenfell is doing so much for the natives. The 
Rev. Mr. Walton is endeavouring to carry on a 
similar work, but has very little outside help, and 
we could not but feel that he should have the 
support and recognition of the people at the 
^' front, " in the great work that he is doing among 
the natives of that vast and practically unknown 
coimtry. 

At six o'clock on the last evening of the year, we 
arrived in Montreal, after an absence of nearly 
eight months. In all that time, we had only once 
received messages from home. Only those who 
have travelled under similar circumstances as we, 
can appreciate our feelings when we caught sight 
of the eager faces of our friends in the crowd 
awaiting the train's arrival. 



APPENDIX 



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336 



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INDEX 



Abitibi River: islands in mouth 
of, 311; dinner at mouth of, 

313 

Agricultural possibilities of 
James Bay district, 330 

Albany Rapids, 29 

Anchor: breaking of, at Nas- 
tapoka River, 189; impro- 
vised, at Clark Island, 194 

Anderson, Bishop: arrival of, 
at Rupert House, 64; arrival 
of, at Fort George, 124; 
service with Eskimos at 
Cape Jones, 140; at little 
Cape Jones River, 147; ar- 
rival Great Whale River, 153 

Anderson Island, 172 

Baggage-packsacks, dunnage 
bags, special chests, 13; 
portaging of, 18 

Barker, Miss, teacher and 
nurse at mission, Moose 
Factory, 293 

Beaver Portage, 30 

Belanger Island, 171 

Big River: channel at entrance 
to, 112; arrival at, 113; 
garden at, in 1907, 116; 
the mission at, 116; harbour 
at, 119; proposed experi- 
mental farm at, 120; arrival 
at, from North, 229; swift 
current of, 230 

Big Stone, 54 

Black Feather Rapids: cache 
at, 32; arrival at, 34; shoot- 
ing of, with motor boats, 
35; accident in, 36 

Blacksmith's Rapids, lignite 
at, 47 

Boat Opening, Manitounuk 



Sound, 159; current through, 

205; passage through, 205 
Boats (motor) used in 1912: 

requirements for, 4; speciJQ- 

cations for, 5; fuel for, 5; 

outfit for, 6; propeller of, 

92; hauling over portages 41 
Boatswain Bay: crossing of, 

86; storm on, 262 
Broadback River: arrival at, 

78; soil in vicinity of, 80; 

hay at, 80; green flies at, 

81; return from, 82 
Brunswick Lake, 25 
Brunswick Portage, 25 
Brunswick Post, 17 
Brunswick Rapids, 17 

Cabbage Willows Bay, goose 
hunting at, 86 

Canoes: proposed for expedi- 
tion, 6; purchased, 9 

Cape Hope Islands, 102; de- 
scription of, 104; harbours 
at, 105; feldspathic dyke on, 

105 

Cape Jones: ice field at, 135, 
136, 137; danger of navigat- 
ing in vicinity of, 135; Eski- 
mo camp at, 135, 137; ap- 
pearance of, 136; harbour 
at, 137; camp at, 138; visit 
from Eskimos at, 138; hills 
at, 142; mosquitoes at, 143; 
departure from, for North, 
143; change in character of 
coast at, 145; second round- 
ing of, 223, 224; second camp 
at, 224; visit of Eskimos at, 
224; salmon trout and white- 
fish at, 225; departure from, 
for South, 225 



337 



338 



INDEX 



Cedar Creek, 316 

Clark Island: arrival at, 172; 
length of cruise to, 172; 
camp at, 172; iron ore on, 
173; mosquitoes at, 173, 
193; storm at, 174-179; 
arrival of Strong's party at, 
179; snowstorm at, 180; 
departure from, for Nas- 
tapoka River, 182 ; return to, 
from Nastapoka River, 192; 
departure from, for South, 
194 

Clay Falls, Abitibi River, 316 

Coal Brook, kaolin near, 46 

Comb Hills Islands : trap dykes 
at, 108; White Bear Island 
at, 108; harbours at, 108, 
246 ; camp at, 246 ; wood and 
water at, 247; storm at, 247 

Conjuring House Falls: river 
above, 37; camp at, 38; sun- 
set at, 38 ; clearing of portage 
at, 40; accident above, 40 

Crooked Lake, 14 

Crow Rapids, 30 

Devil's Chute, 29 

Diamonds, possibility of dis- 
covery of, 330 

Dipple Rapids, 24 

Discoveries, expedition 1907, 
I 

Dobie, O. L. S., Mr. James, 
299; carries out our mail, 299 

Dog Lake, 14 

Draulette, Mr. and Mrs., 296 

Duck Island, 160 

Earthquake Island, legend of, 
244 

Eastmain River: rough sea 
off mouth of, 93; arrival at, 
94; channels at entrance to, 
94, 102; explorations on, in 
1907* 95; garden products 
at, 98; soil at, 99; grain at, 
99; cattle at, 99; timber at, 
99 ; soil and timber on upper 



river, 100; departure from, 
loi; arrival at, from North, 
254; shoals at entrance to, 
254; more trouble with dogs 
at, 256; stormy weather at, 
257; preparations for leav- 
ing, for South, 259 ; departure 
from, 260; arrival of Strong's 
party at, 302 
East Point, 55; storm off, 281 
Equipment for expedition, 8; 
breaking of anchor, 189; 
improvised anchor, 194; 
improvised baking oven, 
216; improvised stove, 265; 
breaking of rudder, 277; 
repairing of rudder, 278 
Eskimos: camp of, at Wasti- 
kon, 129; camp of, at Cape 
Jones, 135, 137; visit of, at 
Cape Jones, 138; form of 
greeting, 138; appearance of, 
139; clothing of, 139; gener- 
osity of, 139; at Little Cape 
Jones River, 147; Husky 
Bill, the guide, 147; at 
Great Whale River, recep- 
tion to Bishop Anderson, 
I54» 155; at Little Whale 
River, 167; handicrafts com- 
pared with those of Indians, 
201; industry of, 208; love 
of music, 211; wit of, 212; 
photographing of, 213; in 
kyaks off Sucker Creek, 217 

Fairy Point, Missinaibi Lake, 
16 

Fifteen Mile Portage, Abitibi 
River, 32 1 

Fish: salmon trout from Es- 
kimo at Wastikon, 130; sal- 
mon trout and whitefish 
from Eskimos at Cape Jones, 
139; salmon trout at Nasta- 
poka River, 190; salmon 
trout and whitefish at Cape 
Jones, 225 

FHnt Island, 170 



INDEX 



339 



Flowers: on McFarlane Island, 
89; on island in vicinity of 
Paul Bay, 133 

Food: allotment per man per 
day, 7; selected for trip to 
Cochrane on the ice, 300 

Fort George: arrival at, 113; 
desertion of guides (Strong's) 
at, 114; garden at, in 1907, 
116; the mission at, 116; 
departure from, 126; arrival 
at, from North, 230; recep- 
tion at, 230; arrival of Com- 
pany's York boat fromCharl- 
ton, 233; welcome to crew, 
233 ; fears for safety of ship 
from Montreal, 233; sunset 
at, 234; more trouble with 
dogs at, 235-236; hospitality 
of residents of, 237; storm 
at, 238; accident to canoe 
at, 239; rescue of canoe at, 
240; arrival of Strong's 
party at, on way southward, 
240; departure from, south- 
ward, 242 

Frederickhouse River, arrival 
at mouth of, 324 

Frost, first of season, 233 

GilHes Island, 183 
Glass Falls, 30 
Gordon Island, 183 
Government road to Cochrane, 

325 

Governor Island: at mouth of 
Eastmain River, 94; har- 
bour at, 94, 102 

Great Whale River: arrival at, 
153; scenery at, 153; H. B. 
Company's Post at, 153, 
154; reception of Bishop 
Anderson and Joseph, the 
gmde, at, 154; departure 
from, 156; channels at en- 
trance to, 157;* arrival at, 
from North, 205; Harold 
Undgarten, chief servant at, 
206; squared timber at, 



206; Eskimo church at, 
209; Mr. Walton's mission- 
ary work at, 210-2 12 ; grama- 
phone at, 211; Sunday ob- 
servance at, 212; departure 
from, 215 

Green Hill Portage, 21; rapids 
at, 21 

Griffith, A. O., Factor at Fort 
George: canoe journey of 
wife and child, loi ; meeting 
with, on Pride, 245; camp 
with, 245 

Guides for Missinaibi River, 
9; trouble with, at Moose 
Factory, 49; mutiny of, 60; 
dismissal of, 65 

Guides from Rupert House: 
employment of, 65; de- 
sertion of, at Fort George, 
144 

Guides from Fort George: 
Joseph, the Bishop's guide, 
126; Husky Bill, 147 

Guides at Loon Point, 248 

Guides for proposed canoe 
trip southward from Moose 
Factory, impossibility of ob- 
taining, 289 

Guides for winter trip, 300, 
305 

Half-way Island, Abitibi River, 

323 

Hannah Bay: shores of, 54; 
voyage across, 55; heat 
experienced on, 56; recross- 
ing of, 284; storm on, in 
1907,284 

Harricanaw River, 55 

Haythornthwaite, Rev. Wm., 
50; reception by, on our 
return to Moose Factory, 
288; interest in agriculture, 
293; valuable assistance 
given by Mrs. Haythorn- 
thwaite and Miss Barker, 

293 
Hearst, Ont., 33 



340 



INDEX 



Height of Land, Ont., 14 

Hell's Gate, 43; shooting rap- 
ids at, 44; accident at, 47 

High Rock Island, 102; lack of 
vegetation on, 103; camp 
on, 104 

Hudson Bay: appearance of 
coast south of Great Whale 
River, 153; topography of 
coast in vicinity of Little 
Whale River, 164 

Hudson Bay Railway, viii 

Hudson Bay route through 
Hudson Straits, viii 

Hudson's Bay Company's Post 
at Rupert House: vegetable 
garden at, 68 

Hudson's Bay Company's 
Post at Eastmain River, 
94; arrival at, from North, 
255; departure of Indians 
from, 255; residence in car- 
penter shop at, 256; dinner 
parties at, 257 

Hudson's Bay Company's 
Post at Big River: arrival 
at, 113; desertion of guides 
at, 114; garden at, in 1907, 
116; the mission at, 116; 
departure from, 126; arrival 
at, from North, 230; recep- 
tion at, 230; scarcity of 
provisions at, 231; ammuni- 
tion exhausted at, 234 

Hudson's Bay Company's 
Post at Great Whale River: 
arrival at, 154; appearance 
of, 154; reception to Bishop 
Anderson and Joseph, the 
guide, at, 154; scarcity of 
food at, 155; departure from, 
for North, 156; Harold Und- 
garten, chief servant at, 
206; site of, 206; grass at, 
206; buildings at, 206; 
squared timber at, 206 ; trade 
at, 207; the oil house at, 
213; departure from, 215 

Husky dogs: Indians' at Ru- 



pert House, 73; depreda- 
tions of, at Moose Factory, 
74; depredations of, at Ru- 
pert House, 75, 77; precau- 
tions against, at Rupert 
House, 76; depredations of, 
at Eastmain River, 97 

Ice fields: off Cape Jones, 
135, 136, 137; in Long Island 
Sound, 138; cause of, 140; 
passage of, 144 

Indians: wedding of, at Rupert 
House, 70; curiosity con- 
cerning motor boats, 84; 
methods of marking camping 
places, 109; gratitude of, 
237, 238; wigwams of, 237; 
pilots at Loon Point, 248; 
supper at Paint Hills Is- 
lands, 249; sick, at New 
Post, 319; need of medical 
care, 330 

Iron ore: on Clark Island, 133; 
on Nastapoka Islands, 329 

Island Portage, Abitibi River, 
321 

Jarries Bay: character of south 
shore of, 54; harbours on, 
58; east coast of, shoals, 
107; currents, 108; character 
of east coast of, 144, 145 

Jobson, C. J. R., Factor of 
Eastmain River Post, Hud- 
son's Bay Company, 95 

Kaolin on Missinaibi River, 

46 
Kettle Portage, 37 

Length of day, in northern 
latitudes, 104; at Great 
Whale River, 208; in Hudson 
Straits, 209 

Little Cape Jones: ice at, 146; 
appearance of, 147; rounding 
of, 147 



INDEX 



341 



Little Cape Jones River: Eski- 
mos at, 147; Bishop Ander- 
son at, 147; mosquitoes at, 
148; ice field at, 148 

Little Whale River: topo- 
graphy of coast in vicinity 
of, 164; adventure at, in 
1907, 164; arrival at, 165; 
entrance to, 165; scenery 
at, 166, 167; geological 
formation at, 166; Eskimos 
at, 168; camp at, 168; de- 
parture from, 170 

Long Island Sound: length of, 
144; appearance of main- 
land of, 145; islands in, 145; 
landmarks on, 145; ice in, 
146 ; passage southward 
through, 217; anchorage in, 
219; storm in, 219; trouble 
with boat in, 220-223 

Long Opening, Abitibi River, 
316 

Long Portage, Missinaibi 
River, 43 

Long Rapids, Abitibi River, 
316 

Long Rapids, Missinaibi River, 
20 

Loon Island, 109; camp on, 

243 
Loon Point: shoals at, 248; 
Indian pilots at, 248 



Manitounuk Sound: entrance 
to, 157; harbours in, 157; 
camp in, 157; passage 
through, 158; appearance of, 
158, 159; openings of, 159; 
camp at Castle Rock in, 
205; passage southward 
through, 205 

Mattagami River, junction of, 
with Missinaibi River, 47 

McCall, Mr., of North Rail- 
way Company: meeting with, 
279; leaves Moose Factory 
for Cochrane by canoe, 289, 



291; failure of canoe trip, 
291 

McFarlane Island: camp at, 
^"j ; storms at, 88 ; wild ducks 
at, 89; shoals around, 90 

Meteor at New Post, 320 

Middleton Island: arrival at, 
78; storm at, 79; departure 
from, 82 

Miller Island, 183 

Ministikawatin Peninsula : 

shore of, 57; timber on, 59; 
coasting along, by moon- 
light, 276; accident off, 277; 
repairs to broken rudder at, 
278; shoals off, 281 

Missinaibi Crossing, 30; resi- 
dency, 31; arrival at, 32; 
departure from, 34 

Missinaibi Lake, 15, 17 

Missinaibi Portage route, 12; 
advantages of, 57 

Missinaibi Station, 12 

Mission at Moose Factory, 5 1 ; 
reception at, on return from 
North, 288; take up our 
residence at mission house, 
290; entertainment at, 292; 
vegetables grown at, 293, 
294; cattle at, 293; grain 
grown at, 293; farm machi- 
nery at, 294 

Mission at Rupert House: 
gardens of, 68; Indians con- 
firmed at, 75 

Mission at Fort George, 116; 
the mission house, 116; 
the Rev. Mr. Walton and 
his work, 116-119; sermon 
at, by Bishop Anderson, 
124; church building, 125 

Moose Factory: arrival at, 
from South, 48; trouble 
with Indians at, 49 ; Revillon 
Post at, 50 ; industrial school 
at, 51; mission day school 
at, 51; departure from, for 
North, 53; arrival at, from 
North, 286; reception at, 



342 



INDEX 



Moose Factory — Continued 
288; old journal at, 295; 
river freezes at, 295 ; hunting 
begins, 295; wedding at, 
296; arrival of prospector 
from Rupert House with 
news from Strong's party, 
301; Mr. Strong's arrival 
at, 302; preparations for 
our departure from, for 
Cochrane, 303-306; the start 
from, 306 

Moose River, 47; character of 
lower, 53; arrival at, from 
North, 286; current in, 286 

Nastapoka Palls : first view of, 
183; height of, 184, 186; 
spray from, 185; description 
of, 186 

Nastapoka River: departure 
from Clark Island for, 182; 
channel at mouth of, 183; 
camp at, 184; lack of wood 
at, 185; search for wood at, 
188; loss of anchor at, 189; 
salmon trout at, 190; de- 
parture from, 190 

Nastapoka Sound: navigation 
of, 170; physical characteris- 
tics of, 171; geological struc- 
ture of islands of, 171; 
harbours in, 183; protection 
afforded in, 183; rough run 
from Nastapoka River to 
Clark Island in, 191 

Navigation of James Bay, dif- 
ficulties of, 76 

New Post: arrival at, 317; 
camp at, 318; Christmas at, 
318; sick Indians at, 319; 
departure from, 320 

Old Factory Bay: harbour at 
north point of, 251; snow- 
storm at, 251, 252; harbour 
and camp on south side of, 
253; Indian camp at, 253; 



our provisions almost ex- 
hausted, 254 
Opizatiki River, 46 

Paint Hills Islands: landmark, 
105; iron pyrites on, 105; 
Walrus Island, 106; ife har- 
bours at, 106, 249; storm at, 
250; geese at, 250 

Partridge Point: harbour at, 
261; camp at, 262 

Paul Bay, 133 ; flowers on island 
in vicinity of, 133; camp on 
shoal island off, 226 

Personnel of 19 12 expedition, 2 

Pipestone Gutway: camp on 
island in, 130; passage 
through, 132; nature of 
channel through, 132; pass- 
age outside of, 226 

Plover Islands, 55; appearance 
of, 282; anchorage at, 282; 
to Big Stone from, 284 

Point Comfort, 59 

Porpoises in Hannah Bay, 55 

Portage Island, 47 

Provisions selected] for trip 
to Cochrane on ice, 300 

Pulp wood around James Bay, 
330 

Quebec: area v; boundaries, 
v; population, vi; resources, 
vii; climate, vii; railways, 
viii; James Bay coast of, 
54 

Resume, 329-331 

Revillon Freres, Moose River 

Post, 50; description of, 51; 

visit to, on return from 

North, 295; farewell visit 

to, 302 
Revillon Frires, Rupert River 

Post: vegetable gardens at, 

67; live stock at, 67 
Revillon Freres, Eastmain 

River Post: establishment of, 

94; landslide at, 255 



INDEX 



343 



Revillon Fibres, Big River 
Post: managers of, 125 

Revillon Freres, Port Harrison 
Post, 125; furs traded at, 

125 , . . ^ 

Richmond Gulf: origm of 

"dirty" weather in, 193; 

end of Salmon Fisher's Trail 

on, 202; Eskimo camp at 

entrance to, 203; current 

at entrance to, 204; view 

of falls of Wiachuan River 

across, 204 

Rock Island Chute, 34 

Ross Island, 171 

Route of expedition 19 12, i; 
of expedition 1907, 4 

Rupert Bay, navigation of 
southern part, 77, 85 

Rupert House: arrival at, 62; 
advance party's departure 
from, for North, 65; soil at, 
69; timber at, 69; harbour at, 
69; a wedding at, 70; green 
flies at, 71; arrival of S. S. 
Amelia at, 71; Strong's 
party's trip Eastmain River 
to, 303; Strong's party's at- 
tempt to reach Moose Fac- 
tory by canoe, 303 



Salmon Fisher's Cove: rough 
weather encountered be- 
tween Clark Island and, 195 ; 
anchorage at, 196; camp at, 
196; difficulties with boat at, 
196-198; running surf at, 
197; tree limit, 199; depar- 
ture from, 203 

Salmon Fisher's Trail: trees 
at, 199; views from, 200; 
cliffs near, 200, 201; lake 
beside, 200; sea beach on 
cliffs near, 201; Eskimo 
salmon spears, 201; Table 
Mountain, 202; remains of 
Eskimos' camp, 202; return 
along, 303 



Sawayan, 59; anchorage near, 
273; searching for Indians 
at, 273 
Seals, value and uses of, 20/ 
Search party, meeting with, 

324 

Second River: Strong's camp 
at, 160; harbour at, 160; 
Eskimos at, 160; meeting 
Strong's party at, 161; 
change of plans at, 161; 
departure from, 164; har- 
bours between Second River 
and Little Whale River, 164 

Shepherd Islands : camping 
place on, 105 

Sherrick Mount, 86; camp on 
island off, 263; trouble with 
boat, 263; second camp on 
island, 265; route to Moose 
Factory from, 266 

Split Rock: landmark, 145; 
failure to find harbour at, 
218 

SpHt Rock Falls, 23 

Stag Rock, 85 

Store Portage, 43 

St. Paul's Rapids (Thundering 
Water), 23 

Stromness harbour, 127; camp 
at, 127; insects in water at, 
127 

Sucker Creek: harbour at, 
148; mosquitoes at, 149- 
152; scenery at, 149; depar- 
ture from, 152; meeting 
with Eskimos in vicinity 
of, 217 

Swampy Ground (Little), 20; 
(Big), 21 

Table Mountain, 202 
Taylor Island, 183 
Tree limit, 199 

Undgarten, Harold, chief ser- 
vant. Great Whale River 
Post, 206 



344 



INDEX 



Voltaire, reference to value of 
Canada, vii 



Wabiskagami River, 46 
Walrus Island, 106 
Walton, Rev. W. G., 116-119 
Wastikon Island, 129; Eskimo 
camp at, 129; return to, 228 
Water powers, 330 
White Bear Hills, 145 
Winter travelling, the dogs, 

305» 309, 310, 311, 322; 
special harness for pulling 
our own toboggan, 305; 
rough ice on the rapids, 307, 
315; tea camps on the trail, 
307; distances traversed on 



various days, 309, 315, 321, 
327, 328; camps on the 
trail, 310, 314, 326; impor- 
tance of care of footwear, 
311; the sleeping bag, 311; 
tent arrangements, 311; 
slush on ice, 317; difficult 
travelling through burnt 
country, 32 1 ; breaking trail, 
323; caching unnecessary 
supplies, 324 

Woodall, Rev., 64 

Wood Island, 59; Sherrick 
Mount to, 267; anchorage 
at, 268, 270; camp at, 268; 
lack of fresh water at, 268; 
storm at, 272; to Sawayan, 
272 



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